CONTENTS OF VOL. II.

CHAPTER I.

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Beauty of Corfu-Nuisances-Difficulty of Sleeping-Almost desirable

Coffins-The Social Lever-Peculiar Habits-Seclusion of Women-

Poverty restricts Sociability-Charity carried too far-Counts, genuine

and false-Imposture encouraged — A self-manufactured Count-A

matchless Rascal-A new Way of raising the Wind-Virtues of the

Ionian Ladies-Divorce too easy-Bad Examples in High Places-The

Wrath of Genius

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CHAPTER II.

Loss of Corfu will be greatly felt-Prince Alfred's Visit-The Duke of

Brabant-The Author of "Pelham"-Lord Elgin-The Empress of

Austria-The Emperor Francis Joseph-The Emperor at a Regimental

Parade The Empress of Austria in Venice-Visit of the Prince of

Wales-A grateful Palace Guest-English Colony, Male and Female,

denounced-Danger of rapid Elevation-Tribute of Respect to the Ge-

neral and Garrison-A quaint Revenge-It is an ill Wind that blows

Nobody Good-"Let us swear eternal Friendship"

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CHAPTER III.

I

Marriage of Priests discouraged-The Exarch-Monasteries, Churches,

Priests-A limited Morality-Protestant, Greek, and Roman Churches

-The Laymen for England, the Clergy for Russia-New Testament

little read-Visit to the Church of the Archangel-Reading of the New

Testament-Little Circulation of the Scriptures-A Priest shaved and

flogged by a British Resident-The Archbishop of Corfu-Religion and

Drunkenness-A pious Usurer-The Convent of San Gerasimo—A

Land-Jonah-How the Water rises in the Holy Well at Cephalonia

CHAPTER IV.

A candid French Author, and One the Reverse-The Latin Princes pro-

tected the Jews-Judas Iscariot the supposed Corfiot-Author's narrow

Escape of being taken for Judas-Venice grants the Jews Privileges-

Cruelty to them of the Greeks-Venetians denounce the Desecration of

Graves-Marshal Schulemberg befriends the Jews-Their numbers in

the Islands-Sir Charles Napier protects them-Their Treatment at

Zante-Accuracy always rare amongst Greeks-A self-deluded old Wo-

man-Peasant's Greek language-Magic-Lantern Lecture in Italian-

A Parricide-An Execution in Corfu-Reported Fate of the Execution

CHAPTER V.

The "magnanimous Cephalonians" of Homer-First at a Feast and last

at a Fight-Attractions of the Black Mountain-Beautiful and ex-

tensive View-Black Mountain rarely visited by Natives - Popula-

tion-Salt Water below the level of the Sea-Strangers reminded of

"Puss in Boots"-Sir Charles Napier - Cephalonian Society - An

Apostolical Archbishop-A Romantic Visit-Murder in High Life-A

sleepless Night-Use of Garlic, and neglect of Soap

CHAPTER VI.

Signor Focca, the Archivist-Proveditors-Making up for lost time-

Good Dinner due to bad Memory-Napier's summary Justice-Great

Extension of the Franchise-Lord Collingwood's Fleet, 1809-Depu-

tation sent to General Oswald-Unconciliating Conduct of Sir Hud-

son Lowe-A bragging Commander-An Englishman of few Words-

Major de Bosset, Governor of Cephalonia-The dying Beauty and her

wicked Brothers-in-Law-Rascal Notaries-A Land of Savages-De

Bosset's summary Justice-Illuminations for Count Caruso, and Sig-

nors Zervo and Montferrato in Cephalonia-A Cephalonian Picture-

Gallery

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VII.

Nuisances of Cephalonia - Rest-destroying Boatmen-A Mishellenist—

Change of Habitation-Dogs, Bells, and Owls' Torments-Duration of

Bell-ringing restricted at Zante-Torture of Heretics-A terrible

Greek Christmas-An intolerable Peal - Philhellenism shaken by

Bells-Signor Lascarato's Reception on his Visit to us-Signora Las-

carato-Lascarato in Prison-His ill-timed Arguments-A brutal

Jailer-Conduct of the Warders-Protestant a term of reproach-A

disinterested Author-My visits to the Prison-Built by Sir C. Napier

-What would render a Greek Empire probable-The Hats-off Cus-

tom-Why some honest Ionians desired the Union-British Officer's

Stratagem for Seeing the Greek Ladies-The Hole in the Door-Lord

Byron-House of the Poet-Daughters at a discount-Wooing in Ce-

phalonia-A prudent Suitor-A Bridegroom knocked down to the

highest Bidder-Nationality not the greatest of Virtues-Universal

Philanthropy preferable - Prince Consort on the same Subject — A

similar imperial Idea.

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CHAPTER VIII.

-

Flowers and Foliage-Wine Company unsuccessful-Unpopularity of

Cephalonia as a Station-Local Society without a Head-A too se-

cluded Ruler-A Wedding in High Life-Sugarplum Surfeit-Pri-

vileged Englishmen-The Marriage Ceremonies-" Let the Wife fear

her Husband". - Cephalonian Beauty - An unwonted Dance-How

Unionists were sometimes Manufactured-A too classical Partner in

the Dance-Visit of H.R.H. the Prince of Wales-H.S.H. the Prince

of Leiningen-A Crown refused by a Naval Captain-The Prince's

Ride-A Royal Dinner Party - The Mysteries of Cephalonia-The

Royal Departure-The Ionian Steamer and the Ionian Assembly-

The President of the Assembly-Offer of a Country-house-Begging

Boys-Count Roma, Mr. Stevens-Zante, second in Beauty only to

Corfu - The Pitch Wells-Luncheon of Grapes-Advantage of a

Knowledge of Greek-Superior Clubs of Zante-The Archives-The

Ghetto-First Visits made by Strangers-Count Lunzi's Country-house

-Appropriate Present to a John Bull-How the Greek War-office em-

ployed the Military Staff-" Hair Mattresses for Private Soldiers"-

The Resident and the Rizospast-Mr. Stevens' Mistake regarding the

Mills-Tempting Offer of a Passage to Athens-A Greek Regent of

British Descent - The Alfred Mania-Obstinacy of the Greeks-A

Rash Promise.

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CHAPTER IX.

EARTHQUAKES IN CEPHALONIA IN 1862-3.

Classical and Biblical Earthquakes - Former Shocks in the Ionian

Islands-Destruction of Fort St. George-My first Earthquake worthy

of the Name-Four Days of Shocks in one Week-The worst Shock

known for Years-Damage done-Saltatory Motion most dangerous-

Discouraging Friends-General's House shaken at Corfu-Barometer

no Guide-Extracts from my Journal-An unfulfilled Prophecy-The

second Shock, in Severity, of the Year Comparison of the two

greatest Earthquakes-The late Bishop of Gibraltar-Send my Family

home-My new Habitation safer—A violent but partial Hurricane—

British Soldiers fly for their Lives-Why Greeks have always built

strongly-Water, Fire, Wind, cause Earthquakes

CHAPTER X.

-

The Greek New Year-An exciting Tour of Visits—Unreasonable Com-

plaints of England-My strong Belief in the approaching Union-

Author requested to make an Address-Motives which actuated Him

to comply-"Hop o' my Thumb”-A successful Hit-My supposed

Speech printed at Athens-The true Speech - Greek Hospitality—

Projected Address to the Author-The English Honorary Members of

the new Club, the Kephellenia-A Greek Christening - Barbarous

Treatment of the Baby-Legal Necessity of the Custom-Festivities

in honour of the Royal Wedding-Dinner, and Illuminations-Cepha-

lonian Taste calumniated-A romantic Story-The Theatre-Modesty

at a Discount-The Prima Donna's principal Friend -An unchival-

rous Exploit-The Prince of Denmark to be King of Greece-Beauty

to the Rescue-A vainly wished-for Riot-Unfounded Rumours of

intended Disturbances -The Clubs and Illuminations Excellent

Behaviour of the Masses-Greeks not yet fit for Constitutional Go-

vernment-My Departure on the Greek Good Friday-The Address

from the Gentry-Reluctantly rejected Addresses

CHAPTER XI.

-

Once more in Corfu - Battle of Eggs in Lent- Military Sports-

Bishop Heber's Widow-A Murder in Corfu-Horse-race won by a

Greek-British Generosity-Sham Siege at Vido-An Exalted Wit

and Beauty-Foundling Hospital-Sail for Ithaca-Sappho's Leap-

Harbour of Vathy-Castle of Ulysses-A Descendant of the latter

Fountain of Arethusa-Ithaca a Land of Rocks and Goats-A wel-

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come Fountain-" What you please"-A beautiful Walk in Santa

Maura-The Right Man in the Right Place-The Resident of Santa

Maura-Mother versus Father-The Father of the R. C. Archbishop-

Knowledge of Greek betrayed by a Smile-Ascension Hill Festa-

A pretty Night Scene-Resolve to visit Athens-The indispensable

Agent of the British

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195

CHAPTER XII.

Strongly advised not to proceed to Athens-A discouraging Meeting—

Touch at Cephalonia-Put in at Zante-A queer Message-The Chief

Justice of Zante-Count Lunzi-A valuable Compliment-A valued

visiting Card-Frequent Assassinations in Zante-Missolonghi—One

of Otho's Colonels-Patras-H.M.S. Liffey-National Guards-Casino

-Find myself known at Patras-An imprudent Othoist-A "paunch

full of Otho"-My Health drunk as a Philhellene - Vostizza — A

charming Greek Lady-The Greek Women of Antiquity-Galaxidia

and Salona-A Walk more picturesque than safe-Corinth-Isthmus

-Kalamaki—A strange Scene-A cool Sergeant - Reappearance of

our fair Fellow-Traveller-Arrive at the Piræus-Athens under the

Provisional Government-Recovery of Stolen Property-The Par-

thenon-Palliation of the Earl of Elgin's Conduct-Amphitheatre of

Dionysius-My Guide at fault-Temples of Theseus and Jupiter Olym-

pus-Fine View from the Hotel Window-State of the Greek Army

-The House of Assembly-The ex-Queen's Farm-Russian Intrigues

-Intriguing for the sake of Practice-How triumphantly I might

have returned to Corfu-A popular Embassy - My Visit to Athens

fortunate-The Greeks should cherish their new King

CHAPTER XIII.

Return to Corfu-Great Change of Opinions-Destruction of the Forti-

fications-The Ionian Money Contributions-The Demolitions com-

menced-Uncharitable Greek Wish-A needlessly lost Opportunity

-Four English Soldiers Drowned-A Sergeant hanged for Murder—

Removal of Guns and Military Stores-The best Explosion-Visit to

Pantaleone Pass-A Peasant Anti-Unionist-School of Lascarato-A

Prophet honoured at last in his own Country-The Archbishop loses

his Knockers-Proceedings of the thirteenth Parliament-Speech of

Aristotle Valaoriti-His Tribute to the "Good Inglis"-The Days of

Chivalry not over-The Lunette Battery, Vido-Destruction of the

Round Tower-The King signs, the Keep is blown up-Acquaintance

with Sir G. Marcoran-Paper-hunting-An Officer killed by an Olive-

tree-The last of the Paper Hunts-Retreat of his Highness the Pre-

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