Returning from this most gratifying walk, we visited the principal Church called St. Martin's, situated on a coteau at a short distance above the town. The view from the terrace yields to that which I have just been alluding to only in being somewhat less extensive. The tower is a lofty and fine one. Although the date of 1498 is placed over the western entrance, yet on the exterior we see none of that flowery embellishment which belongs to the Gothic of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. In the inside the architecture is of a still more simple character, with, at the same time, some singularity of construction. The pillars of the nave are unusually lofty; but the arches, which between these columns open into the side aisles, and look like mere perforations in a wall, have an appearance far from pleasing. There are no pews in this Protestant temple of worship: but rows of benches with backs to them, ranged with uniform reference to the situation of the pulpit. The communion-table is a thick slab of black marble, laid on four supports of the same material, at the east end of the nave. At the west end, on a handsome loft, stands a large organ: its finery of carving and gilding is at variance with the studied plainness of every thing else. A monumental stone (with the long inscription in Latin, transcribed by Addison) still covers the grave of Edmund Ludlow, the famous Parliamentary General; who, as one of the members of the tribunal pretending to be a High Court of Justice, sat in judgment upon, and joined in condemning to death, his unfortunate Sovereign he was in consequence excepted from the act of indemnity and took refuge at Vevay, where he died in 1693, aged 73 years. In contemplating this tomb, an

Englishman is naturally led to reflect on the crimes and miseries of civil discord. Yet, felicitating himself on being born in an age, that sees his beloved country powerful, prosperous, united, and at peace; equally blest with national independence and with constitutional liberty -he bears in mind the mixed succession of things, which, under Providential dispensation, has "worked together for good" to the land of his birth; not only in the valour of the warrior, the wisdom of the patriot, the resignation of the martyr; but even in the zeal of the religious fanatic, and the vigour of the political delinquent. Nor does he deem it incompatible with his just abhorrence of a regicidal faction, to respect the consistency of an honest republican, and bestow a considerate thought on the sufferings of a persecuted exile.

Whilst we were surveying the church, the people of Vevay and its neighbourhood began to assemble within its sacred walls. The congregation soon became as numerous as it was respectable. The Magistrates have benches rather elevated, placed on the right of the pulpit and in the centre of the church. The men sit on one side and the women on the other (the two sexes being always separated). The service commenced with the Minister's reading the confession of sins, the congregation standing, as they do during all the prayers. As soon as this was done and the people had resumed their seats, the clergyman repeated some verses from the Psalms, applicable to the sermon which he was about to preach. He then read a portion of Scripture. Part of a Psalm was afterwards sung by the congregation accompanied on the organ. Some excellent prayers were next read out of a Liturgy, from which, as I am informed, no variation is

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allowed to take place, and which is common to the divine service of the Reformed Cantons. The venerable Pastor then ascended the pulpit, and delivered an extempore discourse, in which, after pointing to his text, on the Love of God and the Example of Christ, the one as the governing principle and the other as the unerring guide of true piety, he enforced the necessity of proving by our lives and conversations that our Religion proceedeth "out of a pure heart and of Faith unfeigned." Like those of the Italian Clergy, but not in the same extreme degree, the cadences of the preacher had an affinity to the style of recitative, accompanied with much energy of gesture. His voice however was mellow-toned, and his manner serious and impressive. The sermon being finished, some further portion of the Psalms, in a metrical version, was sung: and the whole concluded with a form of benediction, with which the minister dismissed his flock, who observed the utmost order and decorum both coming in and going out of church. The Clergymen, when they preach, have on a long robe of black woollen stuff bordered with ribbon of the same colour, plaited round the collar; it is very full and reaches down to the heels; the sleeves are equally large below as above the elbow. They also wear a white cambric tippet (rabat) which covers a part of the chest. The congregation take off their hats during prayers; they however are at liberty to put them on, and the generality do put them on, during the sermon; "a custom more honour'd in the breach, than in the observance:" it reminded me of Holland, whose Calvinistic discipline tolerates a similar license. Nevertheless, let me do justice to the scene altogether, as one of truly spiritual worship. It was indeed a relief

to our minds, after what we had been doomed exclusively to witness in the peculiar forms and practices of another religion. Even as the prevalence of solar light succeeding the reign of darkness, or as pleasure after pain, so great-so sweet is the change, when thus we turn from the melancholy spectacle of a Church whose errors deform and whose corruptions degrade Christianity, to the more edifying results of a Reformation, whereby the Book of Revealed Truth is opened, and the atonement of a crucified Saviour preached to the people. "In the multitude of human sorrows," it is these "comforts" that "refresh the soul."

Persons of condition and property here dress much after the French fashion, especially the ladies. But the peculiarity of local costume is displayed by some of the female peasantry and towns-women. Their hair neatly turned up under hats of straw, tapering in the crown, round and broad in the brims; their bodices of green and black velvet, with neat white neckerchiefs, and petticoats of blue or scarlet, form no unbecoming dress. And many of the Vaudoises who wear it can boast those advantages of clear complexion, healthful glow, and pretty shape and features, which we have observed to be so sparingly distributed among the sex in the less-favoured districts of Savoy and the Valais. Still however it is seldom that we see fairness, bloom, and beauty at all the counterpart of those of our own countrywomen.

Having resumed our walk with a visit to the public promenade, the market-place, and the port, which Major Cockburn has, in his interesting and elegant work, pourtrayed with pafect correctness, we reluctantly quitted

this charming spot, and proceeded on our journey. The road skirting the lake, continued to offer on one hand, beyond the blue-green sheet of its then unruffled water, one of the finest general views of the Savoy mountains, and on the other an uninterrupted succession of vignobles.

and

From Vevay to Lausanne we pass through the several villages of St. Saphorin, Cully, Lutry, and Pully, along which on our right the hilly district of La-Vaux rises not far from the borders of the lake, its sides are covered with vineyards, and the ruins of the Tour-duGoure, with those of some other ancient strong-holds, crown its summits. We noticed the particular fineness of the grapes near the walls of the dilapidated but still inhabited Chateau-de-Terron at St. Saphorin. Here and there, intermingled with the vines, they plant French beans (scarletrunners), which being trained higher than the grape, of a more vivid green, serve in some measure to break the sameness of these rather too predominating objects. Indian corn is also grown in patches: we see large pods of it hung up in the sun against the walls of cottages. Not one of the places just mentioned, nor indeed any of those we had previously traversed on our way from Bex can be brought into competition for neatness with the villages of England. The insulated houses which we have hitherto seen, seldom if ever present an appearance calculated to gid us any very high ideas of a country gentleman's domestic establishment: they seem to consider exterior painting and white-washing as operations unnecessary to be often repeated. Compared however with the Valais, every thing that concerns the comfort and welfare of the inhabitants, looks as it should do, in this part of the Pays

de-Vaud.