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this charming spot, aud proceeded on our journey. The road skirting the lake, continued to offer on oue hand, beyond the blue-green sheet of its then unruffled water, one of the finest general views of the Savoy mountains, and on the other an uninterrupted succession of vignobles.
From Vevay to Lausanne we pass through the several villages of St. Saphorin, Cully, Lutry, and Pully, along which on our right the hilly district of La-Vaux rises not far from the borders of the lake, its sides are covered with vineyards, and the ruins of the Tour-duGoure, with those of some other ancient strong-holds, crown its summits. We noticed the particular fineness of the grapes near the walls of the dilapidated but still inhabited Chateau-de-Terron at St. Saphorin. Here and there, intermingled with the vines, they plant French beans (scarletrunners), which being trained higher than the grape, and of a more vivid green, serve in some measure to break the sameness of these rather too predominating objects. Indian corn is also grown in patches: we see large pods of it bung up in the sun against the walls of cottages. Not one of the places just mentioned, nor indeed any of those we had previously traversed on our way from Bex can be brought into competition for neatness with the villages of England. The insulated houses which we have hitherto seen, seldom if ever present an appearance calculated to gid us any very high ideas of a country gentleman's domestic establishment: they seem to consider exterior painting and white-washing as operations unnecessary to be often repeated. Compared however with the Valais, every thing that concerns the comfort and welfare of the inhabitants, looks as it should do, in this part of the Paysde-Vaud.
From Pully the road takes a pleasant winding course: quick-set fences line each side, over which we see an alternation of orchards, vineyards, enclosed pastures, and plantations. The approach to Lausanne is extremely pretty: the suburbs are agreeable, and contain many handsome houses. The town itself, though considerably larger than Vevay, is, I should conceive, of inferior accommodation as a place of residence. Built on three hills, the steepness of its principal throughfares makes them difficult and even dangerous for carriages, and the narrowness of the streets renders them disagreeable to pedestrians. We walked through the town as far as the western facade of the Cathedral, which is a fine building, and still retains its ancient appellation of Notre-Dame.
Returning from that elevated district of the town, we crossed La-place-de-Saint-Franc,ois, in which stands the church of that uame, and whence it was but a few steps to the residence of Gibbon. Close to the Geneva gate, to the right hand going into the town, is the house where this celebrated author put the finishing stroke to the work, which assures to his name a' durability co-equal with the monuments of that mighty empire, whose " Decline and Fall" he had chosen for the subject of his learned research, and the theme of his philosophic pen. A man rich indeed in intellectual possessions; but deficient in more than "one thing needful." For what is learning when needlessly displayed at the expence of decency; or what is philosophy when inveterately set up against the faith of a Christian; or what are the most lasting foundations of earthly fame to be compared with the solid basis of that "Hope" which is "full of immortality?" The place is still in a respectable state of habitation; but has nothing remarkable about it. The apartment, however, which our historian occupied, commands, through avenues of trees, and over terraces and bosquets, those magical points of view which the lake continually presents.
Looking towards the waterfrom the superb public walk of Montbenon, (which to add to the variety of the scene is crossed by the high road from Geneva) we observed the sun struggling in vain to penetrate through the clouds that were now gathering over the enormous rocks on the opposite side. But its rays threw a lurid gleam on the summits of the more distant Alps, producing that awful tone of colouring—that mysterious and imposing effect of aerial perspective, peculiar to mountain scenery on so prodigious a scale, when viewed in a state of the atmosphere like that to which allusion has just been made. There are few occasions in which the relative heights of mountains may be better judged of than when collections of vapour assume the form of long narrow wreaths, drawn horizontally across their breasts, whilst their craggy brows and towering peaks rise far above these partial misty veils, and seem to touch the skies. This was the case at the moment of our viewing the Savoy coast from the position above-named, and I never beheld a grander sight, nor a pictorial accident more impressively curious.—The glowing description uniformly given of the environs of this city, I venture to affirm from my own transient view of them to be no more than a just eulogium on one of the most highly favoured and interesting spats in Europe. That its interior contains several other objects claiming the attention of strangers I was sufficiently aware, and left them
unseen for no reason less accordant with rational curiosity than the fullest design of returning thither from Geneva. Circumstances however occurred which prevented the fulfilment of this intention.
After dining at the slovenly ill-mannered Lion tTOr, beneath whose paw, it was resolved not to place ourselves again whilst another inn is to be found in the place, we continued our ride. The Pays-de-Vaud about Lausanne,* and extending thence to Morges, bears a strong resemblance to some of the finest parts of England: whilst the scenery on the other side is of such a nature as admits not of being illustrated by similitude to any in our own island—the sea-like expanse of Lake Leman, and the line of coast beyond it,
"Where the Alpine summits rise,
"Like the pillars of the skies,
"Like the ramparts of the world."
Our road, excellent as I ever travelled on even in Norfolk, runs between low-clipped hedges or white-stone walls, opening to us on either hand a view of corn fields, ▼ineyards, and dumps of fruit and forest trees. The chain of the Jura, of which we gained our first view at Lutry, now fronts us all the way to Morges, a handsome well-built town, pleasantly situated on the water's edge. The church is large and lofty, and its general design, in the Grecian stile, highly creditable to the ecclesiastical
• Lausanne is the largest town in the Pays-de-Vaud and possesses numerous privileges. It exercises full jurisdiction, and appoints its own
magistrates. In the Hotel de Ville are numerous relics of antiquity,
proving the importance of the town in time of the Romans.—Gibbon's library is carefully preserved at M. De Cerjat's in the Rue de Bourg.
architecture of Protestant Switzerland. It has a little harbour; and a very little commerce, if we may judge from what we saw, or rather were disappointed of seeing. The port of Morges might perhaps enclose half-adozen fishing boats and other small craft; whilst the immense basin of the lake itself displayed scarcely a single sail!
Passing close to the public promenade in the agreeable environs of this place, the road gradually inclines from the lake; and afterwards as gradually approaching it again, brings us to the pretty town of Rolle, which commands the most extensive and delightful prospects. We had noticed a considerable improvement in the aspect both of villages and towns from Lausanne. The houses, though of a heavy construction, and disfigured by the necessary evil of large Venetian blinds on the outside of the windows, have for the most part a very respectable look, and bespeak the existence of easy circumstances amongst a large portion of the inhabitants. The land is a complete picture of successful cultivation; and the farmers, together with their wives and families, as well in dress and personal appearance as in their mode of travelling, forcibly remind me of that substantial class in my own country.
Soon after leaving Rolle we observed slopes of vines descending to within a short distance of the water. They are a continuation of the fine grape-district— called La-C6te—whose wine of that name is justly celebrated for its excellence, and whose extent in the direction of the lake, lies between Morges and Nion.
The degree of attention and skill here manifested in the culture of the vine, is greatly superior to that exercised in the Valais. The recently introduced expedient of the