bands of the Turkmans, who pay no tribute to the Porte. Their chief is Mahomed Beg, who, it is said, can bring thirty thousand brave and expert horsemen into the field.

6

At Angora, Mr. K. occupied part of the house of the English consul, a Venetian physician, in whose prescriptions, however, he put so little faith as to reject them, we are afraid somewhat peevishly, 'when seized with the epidemic (or rather, we suppose, endemic) fever of the place.' The worthy Italian is, however, described as a most excellent creature, warmhearted, respectful, and attentive in the extreme;' and he gave a very striking proof of his disinterestedness by refusing, as long as he could refuse, any remuneration for the trouble and expense' to which he had been subjected by Mr. K.'s residence in his house during three weeks, for the greater part of which he had been dangerously ill. On his arrival at this place, Mr. Kinneir assumed the Turkish dress, and in defiance of the prohibition of the Pasha, strolled about the city in all directions in search of antiquities, until prevented by disease from further examination. While sojourning here, he was requested by the Armenian Bishop, to use his influence with the Pasha, to procure the pardon of an Armenian who had wantonly stabbed a Turk. This Mr. K. very wisely declined, and the murderer was hung up fronting the convent; but Turkish justice was not thus easily satisfied. The Pasha, who was not a man to let slip so fine an opportunity for extortion, took care to exact a considerable sum from the Bishop and the Priests, on the pretext that they had instigated the assassin to the perpetration of the deed. On the 10th of October, Mr. Kinneir quitted Angora, and after undergoing the usual routine of bad accommodation and exaction on the part of the rapacious Turks, reached Ooscat on the 16th. This place was the residence of Chapwan Oglu, the most powerful chief in Asia Minor, and entirely independent of the Porte.

His wealth in jewels was generally believed to be immense; and it is said that he could muster, in the course of a month or six weeks, an army of forty thousand men. He lived in great splendour; his haram was filled with the most beautiful Georgian slaves, and food for three hundred people was daily prepared in his kitchen. I was received by him with politeness and dignity, in a magnificent apartment surrounded with sophas made of crimson velvet, fringed with gold, and opening into a garden of orange trees, ornamented with a marble basin and jet d'eau. His countenance was benevolent, and his beard as white as snow; he made me sit close to him, and asked a number of questions respecting Buonaparte, of whom he appeared to be a great admirer. He afterwards demanded where I was going, and what I wanted in that part of the country. I told him I was travelling to amuse myself, and that I intended to visit Cæsarea and Tarsus. He replied that, as the road was in many places infested by brigands, he

would give me a guard and letters to the governors of the different districts through which I should pass, and on taking leave of him he enjoined the doctor to see that all my wants were supplied during my stay at Ooscat.'

This Doctor' was the chief physician of Chapwan, who had > also in his employ a French practitioner, in whom he placedmuch confidence. Mr. K. evidently considered him as a privileged spy; and he takes the opportunity of remarking that the French government employs, in the characters of consuls, physicians, or merchants, throughout Asia Minor and Syria, emissaries who regularly correspond with the ambassador at Constantinople. The nobles of the court visited Mr. Kinneir on the most agreeable terms, and his table was plentifully supplied at the expense of the chief. In one of his rambles, he met the youngest son of the prince, with his attendants, whom he describes as a very handsome youth, most superbly dressed, and mounted on a white courser, magnificently caparisoned; a page carried his lance; he held a hawk in his right hand, and he was followed by several couples of greyhounds. In the evening, Chapwan himself took an airing in his state coach, a heavy vehicle, taken by his eldest son from the Russians. While at Ooscat, Mr. K. th informs us that he

was frequently visited by several Russians, or Moscoves, as the Turks call them, who had been taken in the wars and brought here by this Pasha. They had changed their religion, married Mahommedan women, and following their respective professions, enjoyed, as they said, a much happier life, than they had ever done before.'

This flourishing government has been since ruined by the death of Chapwan Oglu, who seems to have neglected to make such arrangements as should confirm and consolidate his dominions, and by a proper distribution of authority and office, secure them to his posterity. The exact particulars of this event are not stated, but it appears that his family has been dispersed, and his treasures plundered.

Cæsarea, the ancient capital of Cappadocia, which was Mr. K.'s next principal stage, presented to his observation a great variety of antiquities, but in so confused and imperfect a state, that he has not succeeded in affording us much information on the subject. The internal condition of the town is wretched, as will appear from the following picture.

'Nothing could exceed the filth and stench of the streets at this place. They were literally blocked up by dung-hills, and no pains seemed to be taken to remove dead horses, dogs, and cats, the offals of animals butchered in the market, and stagnant pools of water, at the sight of which I was almost every instant sickened with disgust.'

The following stage brought Mr. K. to a town, supposed to

af

1 means.

be on the site of the ancient Castabala, where his utmost endeavours failed to procure him a lodging by fair and equitable In vain did the Aga issue his commands, and the Aga's attendant break open the door of a house with a large stone; the inhabitants entrenched themselves in the upper part, and treated both menaces and promises with equal contempt. At this moment a luckless Greek passing by, the Tatar seized him by the collar, and compelled him to lead the way to his dwelling, where he had no sooner conducted them, than he snatched his sword and carbine from the wall, and rushed out of the door, threatening to return with companions enough to make them repent the intrusion. A little attention to the females of the family, however, set all right in that quarter. In a short time the Greek returned alone and in better temper; and a few piastres adjusted every thing completely. At Kara Hissar, Ibrahim having indulged too freely in eating green melons,

the Turkish physician of the place was summoned, and prescribed as follows: he called for a piece of cotton and an egg, and when they were brought, tied the former round the latter, and in this manner ordered it to be boiled quite hard. The Tatar was then directed to eat the cotton and the yolk, which our doctor affirmed would prevent any return of fever. I will not vouch for the efficacy of this specific; but certain it is, that Ibrahim had no immediate repetition of his disorder.'

Nothing of particular interest occurred until Mr. Kinneir reached Tarsus, formerly "no mean city," the rival of Athens,. Alexandria, and Antioch, in magnificence and learning; but now remarkable for nothing but the delightfulness of its situation, and the luxuriance of its surrounding scenery. A week's indefatigable research did not enable Mr. K. to discover a single 'inscription nor any monument of beauty or art.' At Adana, the next stage, the Pasha forcibly detained Mr. Kinneir's pistols, though with a liberality not very common among this people, he gave him in return, a pelisse far exceeding them in value. From this place to Scanderoon, the journey was over a tract interesting in itself, and remarkable as the scene of action between Darius and Alexander. This route has been long disused in consequence of the depredations and murders committed by the Turkmans, but Mr. K. was anxious to explore it, and by the assistance of the Pasha of Adana, accomplished his purpose. At Pias, he had a very narrow escape; the Kia compelled him, by the menace of imprisonment, to pay a considerable sum, and almost poisoned him and his attendants by some ingredients which his servants had mixed in their rice.' At this very place, the Dutch consul at Aleppo had formerly been confined for several months, and released only on payment of thirty thousand piastres. At Scanderoon, once a place of great

trade, but now nearly ruined, Mr. K. was lodged in the mansion of a rich merchant by the strange officiousness of a mad Armenian priest, who assured him that it was his own house. The interesting elucidations of the manœuvres connected with the battle of Issus, we shall defer noticing, until our review of Major Rennell's illustrations of the Anabasis. Bailan, the next stage, the residence of a chief in rebellion against the Porte, is a most romantic town: the houses are built among rocks and precipices, on either side of a furious torrent; the streets are refreshed by rivulets running through them; each dwelling has its separate fountain, and its bowers of vine and other fruit trees. The chief behaved with much politeness; he entertained his guests with great hospitality, and furnished them with excellent horses to Antioch. On his approach to this last mentioned place, Mr. Kinneir was struck with the advantages of its 'situation, in a territory unrivalled for richness, beauty, and variety of feature.' But he does not express any of those stronger emotions, both of delight and of depression, which must, one would suppose, have rushed upon his spirit at the sight of a place where "the disciples were first called Christians." The climate of this enchanting spot is temperate, and the verdure of the ground is preserved by the springs which gush forth in all directions. The city, under the mild sway of an independent Aga, enjoyed, at the period of Mr. K.'s visit, repose and prosperity. The ancient walls of Antioch are nearly twelve miles in circumference, but the modern town does not Occupy more than a sixth part of the space within them, and the vicissitudes of fortune which it has experienced, have caused to disappear every distinct trace of the former wealth and splendour of the Syrian capital. In its romantic vicinity, Mr. K. visited two places of considerable interest, one called Babylæ, the other Beit ul Mei. The last of these has been selected by D'Anville and others, as the site of the famous temple of Apollo at Daphne, a structure of unbounded magnificence, and the scene of the most disgusting debauchery: it entirely agrees with the stated distance from Antioch of this celebrated spot, but in no other point does it afford the smallest memorial of so remarkable a scene. The ruins are certainly such as might have belonged to the fane of Apollo, but the details, if they were sufficiently explored by Mr. K., do not appear to have presented any probable remain of that sumptuous edifice. On the contrary, the former place, both in its name, and its rich and romantic scenery, its ruins, and its fountains, affords every indication of former splendour and beauty, as the site first of the Temple and the groves of Daphne, and afterwards of the church of St. Babylas. From his next stage, Suedia, a miserable hamlet near the mouth of

the Orontes, Mr. K. embarked for Latakia, where he found Lady Hester Stanhope, and Mr. Barker the British resident at Aleppo. Here he was seized with a malignant fever, which also attacked his Tatar and his servant. During his illness, he was attended with the utmost kindness by the family of Mr. Barker, who had recently lost by the same disease his two elder daughters, and it was a providential circumstance that Mr. Merion, Lady Hester's physician, was also at hand, as his skill was instrumental in restoring Mr. Kinneir, while Ibrahim, who preferred Turkish remedies to bark, never perfectly recovered, but ultimately fell a victim to the effects of the distemper. This attack prevented Mr. K. from completing his intended tour through Palmyra, Racca, Kirkesia, and the other towns on the Syrian side of the Euphrates, and compelled him to return, by Cyprus and Caramania, to Constantinople.

Latakia contains an interesting ruin, apparently in good preservation it is a triumphal arch, of Roman architecture, of a 'square plan,' with four arches, (we suppose the passages intersecting each other,) the height nearly 40 feet, with a handsome entablature, and with pilasters of the Corinthian order. During Mr. K.'s residence at this place, a sanguinary revolution took place at Aleppo. For a space of 14 years, it seems that the Janizaries had engrossed the whole of the authority, and had reduced the Pashas to a rank and sway merely nominal. The revenues were converted to the use of this rebellious soldiery, and by the most scandalous and intolerable oppressions, the chief officers had accumulated immense wealth. In this state of things, Mahomed, the eldest son of Chapwan Oglu, purchased from the Porte, on speculation, the Pashalic of Aleppo. Partly by force, but chiefly by treachery, he succeeded in his object, securing the persons, and seizing the wealth of the heads of the rebellion, who, after undergoing the torture, were put to death.

In the vicinity of Latakia,

About 12 or 14 miles from the sea, a low range of mountains branching from mount Casius, and running parallel with the coast, is chiefly peopled by an extraordinary race of men called Ancyras. Their religion, like that of the Druses, is unknown, nor can their doctrines be easily discovered, as they admit of no proselytes, and answer mysteriously when questioned on the subject. They are industrious husbandmen, have priests whom they style Shecks, speak the Arabic language, and pay tribute to the Pasha of Acre. They have many prejudices, and amongst others, look upon hanging as the most disgraceful of all deaths; they prefer being impaled, and state, as a reason, that if hanged the soul issues from behind, but if impaled, it ascends out of the mouth. The fortitude they display under the agony of this dreadful punishment is perfectly astonishing, since they have been known to live twenty-four hours without