in language manly and perspicuous. He has not eked out his volume by any of the modern arts of book-making; we therefore attend hiin from his starting-point to the conclusion of his journey, with our attention always excited, and our expectations fully gratified. The loss of his baggage and collections, as well as of many of his valuable notes,' which were taken by pirates in the Persian Gulf, must be greatly lamented, as it deprived Mr. K. of important materials for the completion of his work.

The Author quitted Vienna on the 16th May, 1813, on his journey to Constantinople. While at Orschova, he crossed the Danube into Servia, then under the government of the celebrated Zerni George, of whose career he gives a very brief sketch, containing little more than is already known. This extraordinary man had risen from a low station in the Austrian army, to the unlimited chieftainship of the Servians; but though he held despotic sway over at least a million of subjects, he never assumed any title, nor could he be distinguished from his countrymen by any splendour of dress. He trained every Servian to the use of arms, and adopted in all points, the Austrian discipline. He his said to have sentenced his own brother to death, for maltreating a female, and to have ordered a priest to be buried alive for refusing to perform a funeral service without the payment of a sum of fifty piastres. Near Cernitz, Mr. K. was in a situation of great danger; while descending a declivity at full speed, the carriage was overturned by a stone, and thrown over the side of the hill. The shock was so severe that the fore wheels of the carriage separated from the body, and the horses galloped on, while the vehicle rolled down the descent, till stopped by some bushes. When crossing the steep range which separates Bulgaria from Romilia, he was compelled to

'sleep at a Greek village in the recesses of the mountains. A nospitable shepherd gave us his house, which was small but clean, and erected in the hollow of a deep and sequestered valley, washed by torrent of the clearest water. The mountains rose to an awful height on either side, and the rich foliage of the stately beeches with which their summits were crowned waved gently over our heads; the beams of a setting sun pierced through the more open parts of the forest, while the songs of the nightingale, re-echoed from the rocks and precipices, formed altogether an enchanting contrast to the smoke and filth of a Turkish post-house.'

After remaining about three months at Constantinople, which Mr. Kinneir reached on the 16th June, he set out, on the 2d of September, on a tour in Asia Minor, attended by a Greek servant and a Tatar, Ibrahim by name. We shall attend him through the whole of his journies, as closely as possible, without making our article a mere itinerary.

The first part of our Author's journey led him to Angora. One of the earliest towns through which he had to pass, was, the once populous and flourishing Nice, in former ages the capital of Bithynia. The ancient walls are four miles in circumference, but the space between them is now filled up with ruins, gardens, tobacco-plantations, and about a hundred 'wretched hovels built of mud and wood.' The miserable half-starved horses which were furnished by the Postmaster, were unable to proceed more than half the next stage, and Ibrahim, availing himself of his privilege as a government messenger, summarily took possession of an equal number belonging to a Greek merchant whom the party met upon the road. At Sugat, formerly the residence of Othman, the founder of the Turkish empire, Mr. Kinneir had his first specimen of travelling miseries; which were, however, in this instance, mere trifles, compared to what he was afterwards compelled to endure.

I hired a dirty and unfurnished apartment, but could procure no refreshment; and hungry as I might be, was fain to go to rest without my supper. I had provided myself at Constantinople with a small carpet, a pillow, and a counterpane, so that I was always independent, and never used the beds or cushions of the natives, which invariably abound with all sorts of vermin. In my travels in Turkey I have therefore always carefully avoided the post-houses, where you are shewn into a filthy coffee-room, divided into small boxes separated by railings, and frequented by all the rabble in the place. The posts throughout the Turkish empire are supported by the government; that is to say, a certain portion of land, or in many places, a sum of money, is granted for that purpose in the spring of every year; and those of the different towns along the great roads (for in by-roads there are no posts) are let to the person who will take them on the most moderate terms, the horses being transferred at a valuation. In a road which is much frequented, the postmasters often maintain upwards of a hundred horses, and they are not only obliged to supply the Tatars with cattle, but also with food, for which the latter pay but a few paras to the servants on going away. This is, however, a privilege granted solely to those who are the bearers of letters or messages. The horses are small and are much abused, the stages long, and the roads in general bad, notwithstanding which the Tatars put these poor little animals to their utmost speed; and when they are so completely fatigued as to be unable to proceed, their tails, and sometimes their ears, are cut off, and thus disfigured they are turned loose into the woods. The Tatars are therefore in general furnished with spare horses, which are led by the Soorajees (postboys) tied to the tails of each other, but if not, they seize the horse of the first traveller they happen to meet.'

These official messengers, though they derive their name from their national origin, are now probably in the smaller proportion of instances, natives of Tatary. Every Pasha, as well indeed as most persons in high office, has a number of them in pay.

The best of those who were attached to the English embassy, was a Swedish renegado, imperfectly acquainted with the Turkish language. These men will sustain almost incredible fatigue; a short doze taken leaning against the wall of the Kban, while their horses are changing, or else a comfortable nap on horseback, seems sufficiently to recruit them. They are fond of strong liquors, and take large quantities of opium, till they become so insensible to fatigue and danger, that Mr. Kinneir has repeatedly seen them at full speed, with their eyes fast closed, and they have been known to pass over the distance between Constantinople and Bagdad, not less than 1500 miles, in 9 or 10 days. In one instance, a Tatar is said to have completed this journey in 7 days, and to have been put to death by order of the Grand Seignor, as having, of necessity, killed a great number of posthorses. At Eski Shehr, the ancient Dorylaium, Mr. Kioneir obtained the best lodgings in the town,' which he describes as little better than a stable. This place is still, as in ancient times, celebrated for its warm baths; the temperature of which is supposed by Mr. K. to be not less than 100 Fahrenheit. After exploring the antiquities of the town, which presented nothing very remarkable, Mr. K. met with the following adventure.

Tired with walking I returned to my lodgings, and had just sat down to breakfast, when I was alarmed by a loud knocking at the court gate. It was immediately afterwards burst open, and one of those Dervishes called Delhi, or madmen, entered the apartment, and in the most outrageous manner struck me with the shaft of a long lance which he held in his hand, at the same time abusing my people for having allowed an infidel to enter the habitation of a holy man, since (as it afterwards turned out) the house belonged to him. I was so incensed at the conduct of this intruder, that I instantly seized one of my pistols which were lying by my side, and should have shot him on the spot, regardless of the consequences, had I not been withheld by the Tatar and those around me. The Dervish was in a moment hurled neck and heels out of the door, and I went in person to the Aga to complain of the outrage. I found him sitting in a loft or garret, a place somewhat dangerous to approach on account of the rotten condition of the ladder which led to the only entrance. I ordered the Tatar to read the fermaun, and representing the circumstance, desired that the Delhi might be punished. He said that he would chastise him the moment I was gone; but as he was a holy man, and I an infidel, the inhabitants of the town would not at present allow him to be touched.'

When Mr. Kinneir returned to his residence, he had scarcely seated himself before the Delhi returned, attended by three or four of his friends, and sat down on the ground at some distance from Mr. K.'s seat, which was raised somewhat above the level of the floor. The Delhi seemed to have been quieted by his pre. vious danger, but his companions were continually urging him

to displace the infidel intruder, and on his remaining tranquil, they started up in anger, and spitting on the ground to express their contempt, snatched Mr. Kinneir's carpet from under him, and seated themselves upon it. Fortunately he listened to the advice of his Tatar, and quitted the apartment, or the consequences would probably have been fatal to his whole party. At Sever Hissar, the Aga, a polished and well-dressed young man, behaved with uncommon civility, and made many inquiries, principally regarding his own health, which he was extremely anxious to preserve, and addressed himself to Mr. Kinneir under the notion, common in Turkey, that every European must be a physician. Another question related to the inscriptions which his visiter so assiduously copied, and which he supposed must either be talismans, or indications of hidden treasure. He shewed Mr. K. a small cabinet, containing eight or ten old silver watches, and a couple of Dutch clocks, precious treasures, in his imagination, though altogether not worth fifty piastres (shillings).

In the district of Yerma, the inhabitants were busily engaged in getting in the harvest of wheat and barley. It is well known that in these regions agriculture is ill understood, and worse practised; not the humblest effort for improvement is ever made, neither is the soil prepared beyond the mere necessity of the husbandman. The farmer holds his land by the slightest possible tenure; he is liable to ejection without an hour's notice; and his taxation, or spoliation, is in exact proportion to his annual produce. To so scandalous an extent is this system carried, that it is by no means uncommon for the Pasha to seize the crops on the ground at a low valuation, and then to dispose of them to the highest bidder. In this part of the empire, the Greeks (Uroomi) form a considerable portion of the population. Mr. Kinneir is disposed to think more highly of their character, than other travellers have done.

They are not (he says) in my opinion, the fallen and dastardly race they are usually represented to be. The political or religious institutions of a state, affect, without doubt, the character of a people, and this is no where more conspicuous than throughout those quarters of the globe where the blighting doctrines of Mahomet have been diffused. The unjust and cruel persecutions carried on by the Turks have damped the fiery spirit of the Greeks, and rendered distrust and deception absolutely necessary to the safety of their persons and property; whereas, under a more enlightened and less despotic government, the national character of that people would probably rise to the standard of the inhabitants in most of the civilized countries of Eu. rope. To me they have also appeared as dispirited and brokenhearted; but at the same time ready to rise if supported, and crush their vindictive rulers to the earth.'

At some distance from these districts, Mr. Kinneir halted near an encampment of Turkmans. Among these wandering tribes he felt himself unpleasantly situated, not having been previously accustomed to their manners, and their behaviour to him, at first, not being adapted to place him at his ease. They are a pastoral race, and trust entirely to their flocks for the means of subsistence, bartering their horses, sheep, and oxen, for corn and other necessaries. Their subjection to the Porte is little more than nominal. They are represented as possessing many valuable and exalted national qualities, which a more settled mode of life, and a closer contact with the Turks, would very effectually remove; they are brave, high-spirited, and hospitable, and when once they have eaten salt with a stranger, will protect him to the last drop of their blood.' Money, the idol of the Turks, they refused to accept from Mr. K. when tendered for the hire of horses, or as the remuneration of service; and when he offered a present to his guard, they rejected it, and begged only a handful of tobacco. The first interview with these nomades was, as has been intimated, by no means encouraging : the Kia behaved with great insolence, and sent off the party in carts for the examination of his chief. At the next encampment, the whole horde turned out; they took off Mr. K.'s hat, handled his clothes, and finished their unceremonious proceedings, by laughing at him most unmercifully. The residence of the chief, Ahmed Beg, was fifteen miles distant: here their reception was courteous and liberal. Ahmed, who appeared to be a young and spirited man, told Mr. K. that he had four brothers, each of whom, as well as himself, could bring five thousand men into the field. He inquired how many tribes and villages there were in Feringistan, (Europe,) and smiled incredulously when told that they were countless.

Angora, the ancient Ancyra, which Mr. Kinneir soon after reached, has, since its foundation, been subjected to many changes it was wrested from the Gauls by Manlius, taken in the reign of Heraclius by the Persian generals, and afterwards by the renowned Haroun at Raschid; in 1102 it was taken by the Count of Tholouse, and in 1359, it fell before the arms of Amurath I. The decisive battle of Angora was gained by Timour, over Bajazet, but the conqueror afterwards restored the city, which has ever since remained in possession of the Turks. The trade of this place consists almost entirely in the manufacture of a sort of fine camlet from the silken hair of the famous goat of Angora. This beautiful animal is only to be found within the surrounding district, and when it is removed beyond a certain limit, its wool loses its peculiar qualities. The territory to the south-east of Angora, as far nearly as Koniah, is covered with