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CHAPTER XIII.

RETURN TO THE ORANGE RIVER, AND THE CAPE.

HAVING taken leave of the King of the Matchappee Botchuanas, at noon, on the 7th of July, my waggons began to move from Lattakoo, surrounded by a gazing multitude. The two princes, who had dined with me, accompanied me a short distance in one of the waggons, as they wished, they said, to go in such a house. They then took a most cordial leave of us, reminding Kok that he was expected to return speedily and remain in the country. I looked back towards the city as long as it was visible, and did not leave without regret the most civilized and ingenious people I had seen in Southern Africa. Eight Botchuanas accompanied us as guides.

We passed three different places where many cattle were feeding among high grass, and herdsmen were attending them, and we halted for the night by the side of a wood. Our course had been first east, and then north-east; our road had been on a gentle ascent, with a hilly country on the north and south; the country before us had the appearance of a corn-field, bounded by the horizon.

In the morning we killed a female buffalo and her calf, and roasting and devouring the flesh found employment for my Botchuanas. While sitting by the fire, they were cooking with one hand, and feeding themselves with the other; and

when they had left the fire, they were picking a large bone as they walked.

On the third day from Lattakoo, our way lay among tall grass and bushes. Having been continually ascending, we were now on high ground. We passed the night at a village of Botchuana Bosjesmans, called Marabay, from a fountain of excellent water near which it is situated. The village consisted of ten huts in the form of inverted basons.

On the fourth day we travelled along the Marabay stream, on flat rocks resembling pavement, till it joined a river coming from the south-west, by which junction was formed a considerable

stream.

On the fifth day, crossing the plain in a southeast direction, we found a hundred people gathering roots for food. They had quitted the city after us, and had arrived before us, having come a nearer way over the hills. Both parties were glad to meet. About a mile farther we came to the entrance of a pass between hills that divides the country of the Botchuanas from that of the Koranas. A small village of a mongrel race between the Matchappees and Bosjesmans was situated at the mouth of the pass. The dwellings were of the form of half an egg, with the open part exposed to the weather, and so low that they were scarcely seen among the bushes. The appearance of the inhabitants indicated extreme wretchedness; their bodies were covered with dirt ornamented with spots of red paint. The pass ran three miles in a north-west direction, and opened into a romantic square, inclosed by hills

with patches of wood. At the east side of the square lay the town of Malapeetzee, containing fifty-six huts, and about three hundred people. The river Makkaral ran near.

The inhabitauts of Malapeetzee, who are Koranas, gazed upon us with a mixture of fear and astonishment, and stood in groupes at a distance soon after our arrival. They possess two thousand cows here, and as many at two other stations; they live almost intirely upon milk. In stature they are shorter than the Botchuanas; in colour lighter. They appear from their countenances to be people of talent; but from their riches in cattle they have few wants, and are therefore indolent. They procure their hassagays and skin cloaks from the Matchapees. Our guides now took leave of us, and I obtained seven Korana guides in their place.

I had heard of the river Malalareen, and was persuaded that it would lead me to the Orange river; I therefore requested my Koranas to conduct me to the Malalareen. We set out towards the south; the country was open, but rough and rocky, with low hills to the east and west. We passed the night near the deep rocky bed of a river, in which there was no water.

At sun-rise on the seventh day we ascended a hill, and on reaching the summit, one of the most beautiful countries I had seen in Africa opened to my view. The hills were ornamented with trees, the valleys resembled the finest parks in England, and forests appeared in the distance; but what was most essential to thirsty travellers was, that the Malalareen river was winding at the foot of the hills.

We looked at each other as if a new world were

before us.

We descended the hill, and at nine o'clock we reached an establishment of Bosjesmans. The men, supposing we were enemies, hastily turned out and faced us, prepared for battle: the chief held up his bow, and jumped into the air with a view to intimidate us. I made signs that we were friends, and they laid aside their weapons.

After conversing a short time with the chief, whose name was Makoon, I stepped to his hut, and, stooping down, looked into it. I never shall forget the terror depicted on the countenances of his two wives; had I been a lion, they could not have expressed greater alarm. I took out my watch, opened it, and held it towards them: it was evident they took it for some dangerous creature, for they almost overturned the hut in escaping from it. I then carried my watch to Makoon, who shrunk back on my holding it near his ear; but recollecting himself, he would not betray a want of courage before his people, and he ventured to listen. On observing that the chief was not injured, others listened, and all admired. I then presented them with some tobacco. This brought the ladies out of the huts, and both they and the men sat down to smoke. Makoon's two wives were about four feet in height, and each had a very small infant tied to her back.

I asked Makoon whether he would choose to receive missionaries to instruct him. He replied, "I shall be very glad if any person will come to my country to teach me and my people what we do not know. I have many people there," (point

ing to the eastward). Makoon had probably heard of the depredations of some of his countrymen, and, desirous to efface from my mind any suspicions I might entertain of him, he added, "We are peaceable men; so were my father and his father; they never stole any thing from their neighbours; we have plenty of game and water."

Makoon was a man of good understanding, and here, in my opinion, he gave the history of the Bosjesmans.—We are not naturally ferocious, or addicted to plunder. While we were suffered to enjoy our game and water, we were peaceable and honest; but when we were driven to deserts. incapable of supporting us, we stole the cattle of our invaders for our sustenance; and when we were hunted like wild beasts, we endeavoured to destroy those who murdered us and made slaves of our children. Makoon, the peaceable Bosjesman chief, seemed to possess nothing but his bow and arrows, and the skin cloak that covered him.

At half-past two we took leave of Makoon, and crossed the Malalareen. We proceeded south, and south-west, and at night halted on the banks of the river, where we were visited by a Bosjesman family.

On the following day we shot a gnoo about the size of an ordinary cow. I gave a part of it to my seven Korana guides, and then dismissed them. These men had all very significant names, one of which was Kaeen-de haree, Lively sunshine; another Mookha, Sharp-sight. The country on the opposite, or eastern side of the Malalareen, was beautifully covered with trees, and the prospect was bounded by low and distant hills. The thermometer at sun-rise was at 27°, at noon 76°.

VOL. II.