imperial residences of Austria. As you pass into the old city you enter upon narrow streets, with here and there little open squares or markets too picturesque to yield to description. Come with me into the square of the Neuer Markt, on one side of which is the old church of the Capuchines. In the crypts of this ancient edifice, which is not at all imposing in appearance, rest the remains of the imperial family of the Hapsburgs, in massive bronze sarcophagi of most elaborate workmanship. Grandest among them all is the tomb of the great Empress Maria Theresa, who was to Austria almost as much as Washington was to our country. On one side, among the most recently brought, there was the sarcophagus in which rest the remains of the poor unfortunate Maximilian, the last Emperor of Mexico, and the husband of the beautiful and devoted Carlotta. It was touching to see the fresh wreath of flowers with which pious hands daily testify to the affection in which the memory of this Imperial Prince is held. There were a great many others which might be described in dimensions and weight, of Emperors and Empresses, of Princes and Princesses, and Royal Dukes and Generals and Admirals, but what impressed me most was the absolutely free entrance to the last resting place of the imperial, illustrious dead.

It was a type of the general arrangements that prevail in Vienna. One of the chief entrances to the old city leads through the great palace, the residence of the Emperor. Everybody drove or walked there to whom it offered a shorter way. The gardens at Schoenbrunn were accessible, with all their wealth of beauty, the walks and groves, the botanic garden and the zoological gardens, on the same terms. So you might be conducted through the palace at Luxembourg and see the family portraits and the apartments which have echoed to so many welcomes to the august crowned heads of the old world, and which, last of all, were occupied by the Shah of Persia. seems to be so near the people. rather long corridors, I noticed

The imperial household In one of the porches, or that the swallows had the

common right of free entrance with the additional privilege of permanent and undisturbed residence with their households. Their social twitter in the midst of the gardens of the imperial palace reminded me of one of George Robbins' famous advertisements of a private residence near London, which he was about to sell at auction. There was much to be said, he remarked, of the beauty of the situation, the extent of the landscape, and the picturesqueness of the surroundings, but he must not conceal two drawbacks-the songs of the nightingales and the litter of the rose leaves. Cross over the street from the Church of the Capuchines to the hotel of the Monck, 500 years old, and lunch in the dining room. You reach it by descending some thirty feet from the level of the sidewalk. What massive columns support the groined arches above you! You are in a place safe in time of seige. How many have shared this protection in the wars of Austria! How many hearts have been wrung with the intelligence brought from the front to mothers and sisters and children in these retreats! Here all day long you find ladies and gentlemen breakfasting, lunching or dining, in a quiet easily imagined. Come around to a narrow street a short distance towards the Danube, to another more famous cellar, and quite as old as the dining hall of the Monck. is the Esterhazy cellar. I will tell you a story about it. I was one day invited by a party of four gentlemen from North Germany whose acquaintance I had made on my way to Vienna, to visit the Esterhazy cellar. What it was I did not then know, but I thought it must be some famous old restaurant, like Auerbach's cellar in Leipsic, or the White Horse in London, and accepted the invitation. I afterwards. learned that it was one of the famous places of Vienna; a cellar founded 500 years ago by one of the Esterhazy Princes as a charity, where it was provided for at all time to come, that any man on Sunday between twelve and one at noon should be able to obtain at cost a glass of some one of the best varieties of Hungarian wine.

It

I did not find time to go with my friends, but one day while sitting at lunch at the hotel of the Wildman, as old as

the Esterhazy cellar, three of my four friends came in, and not observing me, took their seats at a table about five yards distant, and were soon in the midst of their soup. They said nothing to each other, but occasionally their faces were wreathed in smiles, and from time to time they indulged, as I imagined, in an undercurrent of satisfied chuckle that may have indicated their judgment of the wine they had taken. A few moments later, the fourth of the party came in, and looking about in vain to find a familiar face, seated himself at a table about as far from his three friends as I was—that is about five yards—and ordered his lunch. A moment later I crossed to the table where my three friends were sitting. They gave me a very cordial reception, but each added in turn that they had been to the Esterhazy cellar, but had somehow lost their friend and could not imagine what had become of him. Parting with them, I went to the table where the fourth gentleman was sitting. He received me also with great cordiality, and added that he and his friends had been to the Esterhazy cellar, but that he had somehow lost them and could not imagine what had become of them. I resumed my seat to see the party of three pay their reckoning and leave, without seeing or being seen by the fourth of their group;-from which it may be inferred that under certain circumstances, even in Austria, the capacities of the auditory and optic nerves are not effective beyond a distance of fifteen feet.

I might tell you of the great Cathedral of St. Stephen, and of the beautiful votive church, erected by a former Emperor in fulfillment of a vow made in severe illness, and of others of rare design, and of the Protestant Church kept alive by the Americans during the Exposition in an edifice in which it was next to impossible to hear a sentence the preacher uttered. So I might speak of the public institutions, or such as I had the fortune to see. But let me first turn to what was of special interest in Vienna this last summer, the great World's Fair, the International Exposition.

When I reached Vienna, there were on exhibiton two cases of pistols and fire arms, and a crayon wall picture

illustrating the pork slaughtering and packing of Cincinnati, which perhaps I may say was prepared in Cincinnati at my solicitation to illustrate one of our great industries. The remaining articles of American contribution were in piles of boxes in the great building, in cars on the tracks near the doors, on the way, or on side tracks, everywhere between Vienna their destination and Trieste, Paris, Bremen and Hamburgh, the ports through which they had been sent. Mr. Shultz entered on his duties as chief commissioner the day but one after my arrival, May 16th. On the roth of June the American department was formally opened, the barriers at the entrance being removed and a little procession with the American Minister, Mr. Jay, and Mr. Shultz at its head, passing through the principal avenues. Looking at it as it was and thinking what it might have been made, there was a feeling of regret, but the American exhibition was nevertheless creditable to us. It surpassed any former one that we have made at the International Expositions of Europe, and was certainly more numerously visited than any other department of the Exposition. The juries awarded us a larger percentage of prizes than was received by any other nation.

I could give an account of the organization of the juries, of their numbers and their weight as men, judged either by their rank, including princes, dukes, earls, ambassadors, officers of the navy and army, physicians, artists, manufacturers and professors, or by their great experience in International exhibitions, or by their grand culture. It may be enough to say that I never before looked upon a body of seven hundred men who have, as it seemed to me, such and so much influence upon the great interests of civilization. The work of the juries was arduous. I usually took my coffee and roll at the Exposition, two miles from my lodgings at eight o'clock, and with the interruption of an hour, or an hour and a half, for the lunch at twelve, I remained till five or six, for a period of about six weeks, when the labors of the juries were brought to a close.

There were about 70,000 exhibitors. In the single depart

ment of textiles there were over 6,000. Of exhibitors of wines and liquors I do not know the number. But of the samples gathered for examination by the sub-sections of the food jury at one cellar in Vienna, there were 30,000, and these did not include the French or Italian wines. The total number of varieties could not be less than 15,000. The language in constant use in the juries was of course German, but most of the jurors spoke French, and in the meetings. of the juries when all the sections were assembled, the president put every question both in German and French. Without German, the juror was illy qualified. With French, but little better; with neither, he was unfortunate, as was the country he represented.

The International jury, the designation of the whole body was as a general thing elected by the exhibitors from each country, from the commissioners sent by the government of that country. Ten exhibitors in a class were entitled to a juror, over one hundred entitled a country to two jurors, over two hundred to three, and so on. The deficiencies in the American department shut us out from representatives on the juries in several classes, and in but two were we entitled to two jurors each. In not one, to more than two. The juries in each class resolved themselves into sections, and those sections into sub-sections. My own jury, that of food as a product of industry, numbered about seventy, of which there were five sections, covering grains, wines, sugar and conserves, canned meats and fruits, and tobacco. Under grains, there were two sub-sections, one of flour, and everything connected with milling; and another including everything connected with bread baking, and the preparation of macaroni, sago, and so forth.

The independence, fairness, earnestness and thorough fitness and accomplishment of the jurors were conspicuous. It so happened that I was placed on the food jury by the voice of the American exhibitors; and on the jury of commerce, on that of the history of prices, and that of waste products, by the Imperial direction; mainly doubtless, because I happened to be the only American who was at the