1

ly from a very great depth, but resting towards the rinth of coral reefs, volcanic rocks, islets, and north on the shoaler ground of Torres Strait, and shoals-yet destined nevertheless to yield that free towards the south on the bank stretching off from channel which man requires for his commerce, and Sandy Cape. If it were to be laid dry, this great which the zeal and boldness of those seeking for it

barrier would be found to have a considerable resemblance to a gigantic and irregular fortification are sure eventually to obtain. We shall have oc-a steep glacis crowned with a broken parapet-casion afterwards to revert to this point in the survey. wall, and carried from one rising ground to another. The width of the Great Barrier Reef near the The tower-like bastions of projecting and detached surface, as we apprehend the meaning of our author, reefs would increase this resemblance. From ex- varies from two hundred yards to a mile; but there amination of our charts it would appear that the is some indistinctness in this matter, and probably normal condition of this long mass of reefs is that often difficulty from the grouping of reefs together the outer barrier should be narrow, rising precip-in the inner side of the barrier. On the outer itously from a great depth, and running more or less nearly in a straight line; and that inside this outer barrier there should be a clear space about twenty fathoms deep and several miles wide, between which space and the land should be another body of reefs."—Vol. i., p. 332.

Thus there may be said to be two channels, or routes, as they are termed, connected with the Great Barrier Reef-the inner one having an average width of about thirty miles, though narrowed by subordinate reefs on the land side-the navigable passage varying in depth from ten to thirty fathoms for the greater part of its extent, and safe in being thoroughly sheltered from the storms of the ocean without, and affording good anchorage wherever the channel is narrow or intricate. The

outer passage, on the other hand, to the east of the barrier reef, though giving a wider route for navigation, has a profound depth of sea without the possibility of anchorage; so that under no circumstances in which a vessel is placed can refuge be had, unless she is able to make her way through one of the openings in the Great Barrier, and thus to find access to the sheltered sea within. In this description will be seen the objects and value of the survey now completed; which, by ascertaining the openings of easiest access, and of width and depth best suited to navigation, and by fixing beacons to mark and distinguish them, gives great increase of safety and facility to ships traversing these seas. The probable number of these openings or transverse channels we do not find anywhere denoted. In truth, it would be difficult to enumerate them, seeing that they vary from mere fissures in the reef to passages several miles in width. The good ship-channels alone have value, and these seem to be comparatively rare.

side, the precipitous fall into unfathomed depths seldom leaves any ambiguity. We willingly quote Mr. Jukes' description of a portion of coral reef in its ordinary aspect, as aiding the conception of our readers, though, perchance, somewhat lowering the anticipations of beauty of form and coloring derived from the name :

At its

"To get an idea of the nature and structure of an individual coral reef, let the reader fancy to himthe fragments and detritus of corals and shells, comself a great submarine mound of rock, composed of pacted together into a soft, spongy sort of stone. The greater part of the surface of this mound is quite flat, and near the level of low water. edges it commonly slopes gradually down to a depth of two, three, or four fathoms, and then pitches suddenly with a very rapid slope into deep water, twenty or two hundred fathoms, as the case may be. The surface of the reef, when exposed, looks like a great flat of sandstone, with a few loose slabs lying about, or here and there an accumulation of dead broken coral-branches, or a bank of dazzling white sand. It is, however, chequered with holes and hollows more or less deep, in which small living always covered by two or three feet of water; and corals are growing, or has, perhaps, a large portion here are fields of corals, either clumps of branching madrepores, or round stools and blocks of mæandrina and astræa, both dead and living. Proceeding from this central flat towards the edge, living corals become more and more abundant; as we get towards the windward side, we encounter the surf of the breakers long before we can reach the extreme verge of the reef; and among these breakers we see immense blocks, often two or three yards, or more, in diameter, lying loose upon the reef.

If we approach the lee edge of the reef, we find it covered with living corals, commonly maandrina, astræa, and madrepore, in about equal abundance, all glowing with rich colors, bristling branches, or studded with great knobs and blocks. But the objects of this survey would not have Where the slope is gentle, the great groups of livbeen fully attained, without a thorough examining corals and intervening spaces of white sand can ation also of that northern portion of the Great be still discerned through the clear water to a depth Barrier Reef which stretches well-nigh across Tor- of 40 or 50 feet, beyond which the water recovers res Strait, and intercepts, though in a more com- its usual deep blue. A coral reef, therefore, is a plex and irregular manner, the free passage from mass of brute matter, living only at its outer surthe southern Pacific to the seas of the Indian face, and chiefly on its lateral slopes." Archipelago. A moment's inspection of the map will show the singular importance of this strait to the direct intercourse between our great Australian colonies and India, China, and Europe; and the value of an accurate survey of its complicated and difficult channels, so strongly enjoined in the admiralty instructions for Captain Blackwood. It is, indeed, a strange and uncouth passage-a laby

Having dwelt thus fully on the local circumstances of reef, channels, and sea, which formed the object and guided the direction of Captain Blackwood's survey, we need not pursue the track of his voyages in any minute detail. The actual survey was begun at the end of the year 1842, eight months after his departure from England, and his labors were continued until June, 1845

"The water was perfectly clear, and of almost unfathomable depth right up to the outer slope, or being suddenly impeded by this barrier, lifted itself submarine wall of the reef. The long ocean-swell

with intervening periods of repair and repose, at different ports of Australia and the Indian Archipelago. His starting-point was Sandy Cape, which we have mentioned as the southern extrem-in one great continuous ridge of deep blue water, ity of the Barrier Reef. For the first 200 miles, which, curling over, fell on the edge of the reef in proceeding northwards, the barrier is irregular and an unbroken cataract of dazzling white foam. Each imperfectly continuous, including the vast masses line of breaker was often one or two miles in length, called Swain's reefs, which reach to a breadth of with not a perceptible gap in its continuity. There about 90 miles. Of this portion of the survey acwas a simple grandeur and display of power and curate charts have been constructed. The second beauty in this scene, as viewed from the forecastle section of the barrier, stretching from lat. 22° of the wreck, about 30 feet above the water, that northwards for a distance of nearly 200 miles, had surf, with its regular pulsation of thunder, as each rose even to sublimity. The unbroken roar of the already been surveyed by Captain Flinders, and succeeding swell first fell on the outer edge of the was therefore passed over by this expedition. It reef, was almost deafening, yet so deep-toned as is a continuous chain of strong massive reefs, in not to interfere with the slightest nearer and sharper which no gap whatever was found, until reaching sound, or to oblige us to raise our voices in the lat. 18° 30', where Flinders discovered a wide least. Both the sound and sight were such as to opening, from which he passed from the inner chan-standing in the presence of an overwhelming majesty impress the spectator with the consciousness of nel to the outer sea. Here his examination of the and power; while his senses were delighted by the coast ceased-and we have, from some cause contrast of beautiful colors in the deep blue of the which we do not clearly apprehend, an hiatus of ocean, the dazzling white of the surf, and the bright 120 miles in the survey, the form and condition of green of the shoal water on the reef."-Vol. i., p. the barrier in this interval being yet unknown. 121. Captain Blackwood's labors began again in lat. 16° 40', and were thence extended with great minuteness to lat. 9° 20', the northern extremity of the Great Reef, a distance of nearly 500 miles. This, including the examination of the eastern part could not help being struck with the wildness and "As I was walking on the poop of the wreck, I of Torres Strait, and the channels amidst its reefs, singular nature of the scene. A bright fire was is the most valuable part of the work accom- blazing cheerfully in the galley forward, lighting up plished; and the charts, as reduced from the sur- the spectral-looking foremast, with its bleached and vey, will remain as lasting records of it, unless broken rigging, and the fragments of spars lying some of those gradual changes on the crust of the about it. A few of our men were crouched in their globe which geology has to record-or other more flannel jackets under the weather-bulwarks, as a violent and sudden convulsion, such as have been protection from the spray which every now and then flew over us. The wind was blowing strongly, frequent among the Indian islands should disturb drifting dark clouds occasionally over the star-lit the coral flooring of these seas, and alter the sound-sky, and howling round the wreck with a shrill tone, ings and channels that have now been explored. that made itself heard above the dull continuous roar In a part of this great barrier, between lat. 11° 20′ and 12° 20′, the line of reefs, instead of being straight, or gently curving, is sharply deflected into convolutions, forming deep bays, with detached reefs outside. In one of these bights, having an entrance 6 miles wide, and stretching 8 miles inwards, such is the depth that no bottom was reached except close to the reefs, though a line of nearly 300 fathoms was thrown out.

This extraordinary spot was called Wreck Bay, and with melancholy fitness of name, as Captain Blackwood found lying on the reef near it the wrecks of two large vessels, the Ferguson and Martha Ridgway, lost here in 1840 and 1841; the former having part of the 50th regiment on board. Happily the presence of another vessel in company prevented in this case any loss of life. Mr. Jukes gives an interesting description of these wrecks, and of a night he passed on board that of the Martha Ridgway, after considerable danger in reaching it.

We have pleasure in quoting two or three striking passages from this portion of his narrative. The first describes the view seaward from the reef on which the wrecks lay-a mere ridge, some hundred yards wide, rising to the water's level from the profound ocean underneath :—

A little further we find a good picture of the scene, as night was closing in upon them in this situation:

of the surf. Just ahead of us was the broad white band of foam, which stretched away on either hand into the dark horizon. Now and then some higher wave would burst against the bows of the wreck, shaking all her timbers, sending a spout over the forecastle, and travelling along her sides, would lash the rudder backwards and forwards with a slow creaking groan, as if the old ship complained of the protracted agony she endured. She had been wrecked since we had ourselves left home and en

tered the southern hemisphere: and there mingled perhaps some speculations as to our chance of leaving the old Fly in some similar situation, with the feelings which the character of the scene sufficed to impress upon the mind."-Vol. i., p. 123.

Another passage, describing one of the coral reefs in this vicinity, will in some sort redeem the less picturesque impression of such scenery derived from a general description before quoted

"In a small bight of the inner edge of this reef was a sheltered nook, where the extreme slope was well exposed, and where every coral was in full life Smooth round masses of mæanand luxuriance. drina and astræa were contrasted with delicate leaf

like and cup-shaped expansions of explanaria, and with an infinite variety of branching madrepora and seriatopora; some with mere finger-shaped projections, others with large branching stems, and

others again exhibiting an elegant assemblage of this and subsequent periods of the voyage surveys interlacing twigs, of the most delicate and exquisite were made of this Strait and the channels travworkmanship. Their colors were unrivalled-vivid ersing its isles and reefs, the singular number and greens contrasted with more sober browns and yellows, mingled with rich shades of purple, from pale complexity of which we have before noticed, renpink to deep blue; bright red, yellow, and peach dering this one of the most dangerous, as it is one colored nullipore clothed the masses that were of the most important passages on the globe. The dead, mingled with pearly flakes of eschara and examination of Endeavor Strait, that channel which retepora, the latter looking like lace-work in ivory. winds immediately round Cape York, was made In among the branches of the corals, like birds with all the exactness enjoined by the Admiralty, among trees, floated beautiful fish, radiant with and justified by its peculiar importance. The line metallic greens or crimsons, or fantastically banded with black and yellow stripes. Patches of clear of steam navigation now loudly invoked for these white sand were seen here and there for the floor, seas, in connection with those great lines which with dark hollows and recesses beneath overhanging already unite India, China, and Europe, cannot ledges. All these, seen through the clear crystal long be delayed, seeing the extent, rapid growth, water, the ripple of which gave motion and a quick and high commercial activity of the colonies which play of light and shadow to the whole, formed a call for such communication. The channel of scene of the rarest beauty, and left nothing to be Endeavor Strait will in all likelihood be that taken, desired by the eye, either in elegance of form or when such scheme is carried into effect; and every brilliancy and harmony of coloring."—Vol. i., P. sounding, or observation of wind, tide, or current, now made, must bear upon the security and welfare of this future navigation.

117.

Happily for a spot which has acquired a melancholy notoriety by these and other wrecks, the discovery was made within a very short distance of an excellent channel traversing this outer line of reefs; and the erection of a lofty beacon on Raine's Islet, at the edge of this passage, may be cited as one of the main objects fulfilled by the expedition. The work was begun in June, 1844, and completed in less than four months. Twenty convict masons and quarrymen were brought from Sydney; a quarry was opened in the coral rock; lime was got by burning sea-shells; wood for burning was brought from islands near the mainland; water procured from other islands, 25 miles distant; timber for the building was obtained from the wreck of the Martha Ridgway. Having no anchorage nearer, the Fly had to lie 12 miles off within the reefs of the barrier, the smaller vessels and boats running to and fro with the various provisions and materials needful for the workmen. Under all these difficulties a strong circular stone tower was erected, 40 feet high, and 30 feet in diameter at its base, raised 30 feet higher by a framework of wood, at the top covered with painted canvass. Mr. Jukes describes the little islet which gave foundation to the work-a spot not two miles in circumference, and scarcely 20 feet above high water mark—and pictures it well in a plate; but he barely notices the erection of the beacon, and ill supplies this deficiency by a short sketch in the appendix. Seeing the singularity of the situation, and the peculiarity of the work, we cannot but believe that it might have furnished some striking or amusing incidents to a narrative which is mainly deficient in these points. The truth is, that the time was one of monotonous inaction to those not directly engaged in the erection, and that they looked upon it with weariness and distaste. Accordingly we find our author, with another naturalist and the artist who accompanied the expedition, starting in the Bramble, when the beacon was half completed, for Cape York-the vast promontory which abuts on Torres Strait, forming the N. E. point of the Australian continent.

These circumstances, and a regard to the remarkable position of Cape York-commanding, as it may fairly be said, this great highway between the Pacific and Indian oceans-lead our author to discuss a question, which has for some time been before both home and colonial authorities, viz., the relative value of Cape York and Port Essington, as a post and settlement for aid to the navigation of these seas. The latter place, 600 miles to the west of Cape York, and on the other side of the great Gulf of Carpentaria, has been for several years occupied by an officer and small body of marines, but without any attempt at colonization; and with little encouragement to that, either from fertility of the soil, healthiness of the spot, or the character of the natives in its vicinity. Repeated visits to both places have given Mr. Jukes a very decided preference for Cape York; and in his reasons for this preference we fully concur. Its position is a main point in its favor. It is in the vicinity of danger and affords a place of easy refuge. In war it would command security to a passage where a single enemy's ship might inflict incalculable mischief. Its distance from Sydney, 1700 miles, would make it an admirable depot for coal in the steam navigation towards India. Though without a harbor, this is little needed, where the reefs themselves, which create the danger of the strait, protect the sea from all heavy swells and render anchorage secure. At Evans' Bay, which is suggested as a site for the settlement, there are dry rocky places for building, pools of fresh water, and a considerable surface of fertile land; frequent rains, fresh breezes, and a healthy vegetation. All these advantages, according to our author, are absent at Port Essington, and though possessing a fine harbor, the value of this is annulled by situation and difficulty of access. Putting the matter on a personal footing, Mr. Jukes declares that if condemned to either, he would rather live at Cape York for five years than at Port Essington for two

an odd numerical formula of preference, but sufAtficiently intelligible.

The right manner of solving the question we great scheme of communication, embracing the believe to be, that Cape York should be adopted Australian colonies, we may remark that steamas a new settlement, and Port Essington not given vessels, after passing Cape York, will probably in up. Mistress of Gibraltar, Aden, and Singapore, most cases proceed southward by the inner chanand cognizant of the value of such positions for nel, within the Great Barrier Reef. Though afcommerce and power, England can hardly choose fording smooth water, however, this passage will but plant her flag on a promontory which com- not be without its difficulties and delays. The mands the passage between two oceans. But the first three nights after leaving Cape York must whole shores of the continent, of which it is one probably be passed at anchor; and even in the extremity, are becoming hers by discovery and col- daytime a slow rate of progress will often be reonization; and Port Essington is a point on the quired, to avoid the numerous detached coral reefs; line of coast, and having relations to the Indian especially when the sun is near the meridian, and Archipelago, which justify its being retained, even the glare on the water such as to confuse the view though offering little present benefit or promise. of the intricate passages between. Experience The active spirit which at this time pervades the and multiplied beacons will lesson these difficulties, world, working with new means and appliances of but cannot wholly remove them. every kind, will vivify in the end what is barren now; and no expenditure or labor can be better bestowed than in aiding by anticipation the progress which commerce and colonization are making on these distant shores.

to a parallel chain of hills, presents a surface covered with abundant and fine grass, and large timber. Inlets on the coast are numerous, and boat navigation is aided by tides rising from twenty to thirty feet. If colonization be extended to the north of the actual settlements of New South Wales, this would appear the best locality for it; and Mr. Jukes, after twice circumnavigating Australia, affirms that he has seen no part of this continent, near the sea, of equal fertility, or combining so many natural advantages. But penal settlements can hardly be attempted beyond the latitude of Sandy Cape; such are the facilities for escape afforded by the coral reefs and islands which stretch multitudinously along this coast.

Though a subordinate object of the expedition, yet, under the authority of his instructions, Captain Blackwood surveyed also a line of the Aus tralian mainland, beginning at latitude 22°, and proceeding 110 miles northwards. Previous reWhile upon this subject, we must indulge our-ports had afforded the presumption of superior selves with a short parenthesis as to that extraor- soil and larger native population in this region ; dinary line of steam communication between and such was found to be the case. A belt of England and her eastern possessions, (somewhat undulating land, running backwards from the coast oddly called the Overland journey,) of which Australia and New Zealand will hereafter form the extreme branches. The creation of the last twelve years, this communication has already acquired a sort of maturity of speed and exactness, notwithstanding the enormous distances traversed, and the changes necessary in transit from sea to sea. The Anglo-Indian mail, in its two sections, and including passengers and correspondence, possesses a sort of individuality as the greatest and most singular line of intercourse on the globe. Two of the first nations of Europe, France and Austria, struggle for the privilege of carrying this mail across their territories. Traversing the length of the Mediterranean, it is received on the waters of the Ancient Nile-Cairo and the Pyramids are passed in its onward course the Desert is traversed with a speed which mocks the old cavalcades of camels and loitering Arabs-it is reëmbarked on the Red Sea near a spot sacred in scriptural history—the promontory projecting from the heights of Mount Sinai, the shores of Mecca and Medina, are passed in its rapid course down this great gulf-it emerges through the Straits of Babelmandel into the Indian seas to be distributed thence by different lines to all the great centres of Indian government and commerce, as well as to our more remote dependencies in the Straits of Malacca and the Chinese seas. There is a certain majesty in the simple outline of a route like this, traversing the most ancient seats of empire, and what we are taught to regard as among the earliest abodes of man—and now ministering to the connection of England with that great sovereignty she has conquered, or created, in the East; more wonderful, with one exception, than any of the empires of antiquity; and perchance also more important to the general destinies of mankind.

The deficiency of navigable rivers in Australia, one of the many strange peculiarities of that country, gives great value to every discovery of this kind. Though no new river was found on the part of the coast now described, a further examination was made of one previously discovered by Captain Wickhamn, of the Beagle, and bearing his name. Our author, with a party, after a difficult passage through the mangrove bushes and breakers at its mouth, ascended seven or eight miles of its course; the boats being then compelled to return from increasing shallowness of water. this stream must have its source in the mountainchain which forms a sort of backbone to Australia, running parallel and near to the eastern coast, little can be expected from it in facilitating ingress to the interior, except as regards the supply of fresh water-an advantage, it must be admitted, of no small import in a country so destitute of this great necessary of life.

As

During the examination of this line of coast, there was frequent communication with native tribes, which Mr. Jukes relates in some detail.

With respect to the still unexecuted part of this Though certain peculiarities of usage are noticed,

gle island or several. Of its interior we are wholly ignorant-discovery having never advanced more than a few miles from the coast; and this more as the casualty of adventure than on any deliberate plan of survey. Yet enough has been seen or learnt through indirect channels to indicate a country of luxuriant vegetation, profuse in its forms of animal life, abounding in water, large rivers, and mountain chains, a striking contrast in all physical conditions to the adjacent continent of Australia; and in these circumstances, under such a latitude, giving promise of a rich exuberance of harvest to the naturalist who may hereafter find access to the Fauna and Flora of this unknown land, the native seat of the bird of paradise.

we find nothing in these relations which would still remains to be completed in our maps; and much interest our readers, or which differs mate- we have no certain assurance whether it be a sinrially from the description so familiar to us in the narratives of former travellers of their intercourse with this people. They appear, as seen here, to be a tall and athletic race, active and bold in their demeanor and habits, with an occasional fierceness of temper, of which a melancholy proof occurred in the death of one of the seamen of the Bramble, struck by a native spear. Our author, who was one of the landing party when this happened, gives no statement of any provocation or quarrel leading to it. The spear, projected by aid of the womerah, or 'throwing-stick," which gives it wonderful increase of force, penetrated four and a half inches into the back, shattering the spine and ribs, and passing nearly through the left lobe of the lungs. It was with difficulty drawn out, leaving the point, made of bone, in the body. The poor fellow-an excellent sailor, and beloved by his messmates-lingered to the third day in suffering, and then died.

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In describing the feelings excited by this event among the others of the party-making them reluctant to leave the coast without some opportunity of revenging their comrade's death-Mr. Jukes explains the source of many of these unhappy atrocities, which even yet occasionally deface our intercourse with the native Australians, despite the higher and better views which now govern our principles and habits of colonization. On the outskirts of the settlements, such occurrences have been, and always will be, more frequent-from obvious causes in the character and habits both of the white and native border population;-and we are led to fear that the spread of colonization in the N. E. portion of Australia, certain eventually to occur, may involve yet more of such calamities, seeing the bold and masculine character of many of the native tribes on this part of the coast. Time will in the end put a stop to all these things; but it can only happen through that extinction of the native population, which, by a strange and sad destiny-the ineluctabile fatum of what we call savage life—seems always to occur sooner or later, where Europeans have trodden upon new lands.

A small fortified post, established by the Dutch twenty years ago, at Ooroo, on its western coast, is the sole spot yet occupied by Europeans-a feeble attestation of the claim which Holland extends to New Guinea, in common with so many other islands of the Indian Archipelago.* The jealous and ferocious character of the natives is usually cited as the reason why neither through this, nor other direct channel, has European commerce reached these shores. But in truth our ignorance is the same of the people as of the country. Our voyagers see occasionally the Papuas, or Oriental negroes, of the coast; and hear more vaguely of the other race, the Alfoërs or Haraforas, inhabiting the interior. We can hardly consider New Guinea as inaccessible to future commerce, when seeing the hardy and extensive traffic which the Chinese and people of the Molucca Islands carry on with this country; bringing away in their junks the edible bird-nests, tortoise-shell, pearls, masay bark, birds of paradise, nutmegs and trepang; and carrying thither cotton goods, cloth, iron tools, &c. All this sounds well to the mercantile ear; and time will achieve what has hitherto, from ignorance, accident, or jealousy, been unaccomplished.

Of this portion of the New Guinea coast, surveyed by Captain Blackwood, the character is more peculiar than interesting, except under the supposition of its indicating some great river, of which this is the delta. We quote Mr. Jukes' description :

In the latter part of Mr. Jukes' first volume, we find narrated the proceedings of the expedition on Murray's Islands, at the eastern entrance of Torres Strait, and on the southern coast of New "From the large opening or river mouth, in Guinea; which coast, with its widely-spread S. lat. 8° 45', E. long. 143° 35', to the furthest banks of shoal soundings, was surveyed for a 144° 30', and for an unknown distance beyond, the point examined in the boats in lat. 7° 40′ and long. length of a hundred and forty miles—a small seccoast had everywhere the same features. It was tion of the shores of this vast island, but impor- low, flat, muddy, covered with jungle and impentant as the northern boundary of the strait, and fur-etrable forests, and intersected by a complete netther interesting, as some slight index to a country work of fresh-water canals-of all sizes and depths, less known perhaps than any other of equal size from a mere muddy ditch to a width of five miles in the habitable world. Notwithstanding its and a depth of twenty to thirty feet. This coast extent, equal to that of Great Britain and France was fronted by immense mud-banks, stretching ronjointly its remarkable position in the Eastern Archipelago-its proximity. to islands long visited or colonized, and to channels of great and increasing commerce the outline of Papua, or New Guinea,

great

* We owe to Dutch writers, Kolff and Modena, the most recent accounts of this western portion of the New authorities as to this singular country and people, but all Guinea coast. Forrest, Delano, Lesson, &c., are further scanty in the information they are able to afford.