other formidable drawback, especially if you have to walk. When persons stay in this valley the grand object of attraction is Monte Rosa, and as the village of Macugnaga commands a magnificent view of it, which

Borca does not, the former must always be the place most convenient to travellers. It was a disappointment to us that Monte Rosa was hidden by clouds during the greater part of our walk to-day. We ought to

have had it in view right in front nearly the whole time. Nothing indeed can much surpass the beauty of the Val Anzasca with its luxuriant vegetation of all kinds,-fig-trees, trellised vines, noble walnut-trees, and splendid Spanish chestnuts, whose glossy leaves and fantastic branches are quite unlike those of the stunted specimens which grow within the bastion of Kensington Gardens; elegant and delicate ferns of great variety, and Alpine pastures and nooks everywhere full of exquisite wild flowers. Then the villages are always prettily placed, and their white-washed churches are adorned with picturesque campaniles. The Anza rushes over a rocky bed at the bottom of the valley, which mountains on each side close in, whilst now and then a cascade leaping down their precipitous sides gives additional animation to the scene. But the great feature of all is of course Monte Rosa, which, with its snowtopped head, towers aloft in the sky, to complete the picture. Before we reached Macugnaga the clouds had cleared away, and the view was perfect.

As we approached the village, Lochmatter in person came out to meet us, and was evidently desirous that we should go to his inn; but as our former experience of it was not highly favourable, we determined to try the new inn which the French gentleman had recommended. Lochmatter whispered a word or two to our porter, which no doubt made it to his interest to take us to Lochmatter's house, and he professed not to

know where the other inn was. This, however, was something not very difficult to discover, and one of my companions rapidly walked round the village, and soon came back, having discovered the way to the "Hôtel Mont Moro." This is situated not far from the new church, and a little out of the village, and it forms a very conspicuous object to persons descending the Monte Moro Pass. Some of the reception-rooms for travellers were not yet finished, and the staircases were without balustrades, but we found large airy bedrooms in the house, and everything, except the cuisine, was on a superior scale to what we had met with at Lochmatter's. I was contented to rest on our arrival, but my companions strolled out as far as the old Gothic church and limetree to enjoy the fine view of Monte Rosa, and watch the sun, which was just setting behind it.

CHAPTER XI.

THE BELVEDERE OF MACUGNAGA; THE BARANCA PASS; AND VAL MASTALONE.

Excursion to the Belvedere The "lost valley" - Monte Rosa from the Belvedere Solitude among the mountains-The Weiss Thor

The Turlo Pass

The Val Quarazza

- The Glacier - Pedriolo Photography in the Alps - Return to Ponte Grande - From Ponte Grande to Varallo The nervous mule-driver Banio The Val Ollocia - The Baranca Pass Sheep and shepherds of the Bergamesque — A thunder-shower- The Val Mastalone - The Inn at Fobello - Fréra The drive to Varallo.

Sept. 5.-On our former visit to Macugnaga we hurried hastily away, as many English travellers have done before, without having visited the Belvedere; but we had thoroughly repented, and on this occasion our principal object in revisiting Macugnaga was to make that excursion. Fortunately the day was most favourable, and at an early hour I saw the first rays of the sun touch the mountain with rosy light. The summit of Monte Rosa was perfectly clear during the whole day, but a few mists clung to some of the lower mountains, particularly the Monte Moro. At about 8.30 A.M. we started from the hotel, our party being increased by the addition of an American gentleman and his Oberland guide. Young Gaspere Dominica, the landlord's son, one of the

most sprightly, active, and obliging fellows possible, officiated as our guide; and his brisk little dog went with him, frisking on in front of the party, and appearing perfectly at its ease during the whole expedition. Young Gaspere is the factotum of the hotel, and the only person in it who seems gifted with much intelligence; he has already enlarged the circle of his ideas by a visit to Turin, where he studies medicine during the winter months, with the intention of becoming a physician, or to speak more plainly a village doctor. We were extremely glad when we found that he was to accompany us on our excursion. With the greatest good will he took on his back one of the baskets of the country, well filled with provisions, and decorated by the projecting necks of two black wine-bottles; thus equipped he led the way. As my companions intended to make a complete circuit of the glacier, and I was to go no farther than the Belvedere, it was arranged that I should return to the inn by myself. I was commended to the care of Gaspere's father, who was to provide me with lunch on my return, and he was now introduced to me. Old Dominica is a very peculiar, dark-complexioned Italian, with a perfect mop of black hair standing straight out from his head in an entangled mass. His unshaven beard, and, I fear, unwashed face, added no charm to his personal appearance. When he was told that I should return before my companions, and that he must take care of me, he signified his assent