month, and so escape sacking. Thence- machines and bobbing bathers in dismal forth births in Haarlem are celebrated by sack-like dresses to see; and little Dutch what has now become an ornament on the children playing about with their English doors, called a klopper. Hugo brought or Swiss nurses. The talk around is wonforth their family one to show me. A derfully polyglot. The Dutch use their square of lace with his coat of arms finely own language by nature ; but almost as embroidered and edged with exquisite old often speak, and they assure me think, in Mechlin. This is lined white for a girl, French, from habit, their second nature. half in pink for a boy. Fastened over To know it is a polite necessity, like havwood, it was hung out by day, and care- ing a visiting-dress; and only old-fashfully goffered again at night. The Jews ioned people would dream of sending the plague here of all curio-fanciers invitations otherwise than in French, and scenting out every bit of old silver, lace, indeed many more familiar letters.

As china, or carving in cottage or family seat to English, I can remember no one of our

- came sniffing around his klopper with acquaintance who did not know it a little, vainly large offers for the Mechlin when many, like my kinsfolk, excellently well, last it was hung out.

and they like to “practise on all occa. Several mornings we used to start early sions. Most know German, too; some, for Zaandvoort in the coureuse, or stan- perhaps, Italian. hope - Jacqueline driving us along the Driving home in time to dress for dinstraight road, bordered by trees, through ner, most likely some neighbors pay an the downs, or dunes. These lie like a evening visit afterwards, and stay chattroubled sea of sand-hills all along the ting till nine or ten o'clock. In summer coast, covered with sparse green and cop- this is the favorite hour for callers, and pice. They are divided into shootings, the terrace is gay with laughter and voices said to be fair as to partridges and pheas in the warm evenings. But it was getting ants, and very good for wild duck and dark now to stroll out from Haarlem, or rabbits. Lonely and sheltered, with fresh the environs. One day we saw a peasants' sea-air and sweet copse scents, the downs wedding passing the gate, a procession are pleasant to ramble in through a sum- bound on the gala drive that follows the mer's day, taking one's lunch in a basket, civil and religious ceremony. There were as the Lindenroede household do. Near fifteen to eighteen little yellow-varnished the coast, sandy tracts are carefully and gigs (or chaises, as they call them), the anxiously planted with coarse grass-tufts, whips and the plaited long manes and each only a foot apart, for this grass bind- tails of the horses adorned with ribbons ing the loose sand against cruel winds and flowers; an orange horse-cloth hangforms the bulwark of the land. Zaand- ing behind the gig. First came the bestvoort is the smaller, quieter rival of fash- man and bridesmaid ; next the happy pair ionable Scheveningen, a few miles down in a more ornamental “tilbury” than the the coast ; and all the pleasanter to my following pairs. Each man drives on the mind for being so much less frequented. left side with his right arm round his maidPassing through the old fishing.village en's waist, taking “toll” at all bridges, with its wooden houses, we leave the and throwing sugarplums at the gazers in coureuse, and go down on the deep sands. the villages. The old folk follow four toHere sitting in big basket seats, like por- gether in larger covered yellow chaises ters' chairs, to keep off the wind, we watch shaped like poke bonnets with glass sides. the low, grey sea; the big fishing-smacks N. B. “Some little tilburys have caps, called pincks hauled up ashore * with too,” Jacqueline remarks to me, “but their wooden fins, and their blue pennons these are only for married people! No flying; the fish wives with their lace caps unmarried peasant girl or boy ventures to and curved straw bonnets, peculiar to drive in such.” The peasants end their themselves, and long aprons, with a stripe drive with a dinner somewhere, and diver. atop always of a different stuff, why, no sions. But as the latter are the same as at one knoweth. The fishermen wear blue a servant's wedding, I can describe them shirts, and crimson serge trousers, often for both. At Lindenroede, the last serrolled up to the knee, as they go about vant's wedding was minus the peasants' barelegged; and there are, too, bathing. drive ; but a party was given in the long

glass orangery for them. Here they sang, Pink was an old name in Shakespeare's days for a danced, with laughter and noise ; até cakes

and drank their favorite persico. (A “This pink is one of Cupid's carriers: clap on more sail, pursue."

drink in which pounded peach-kernels is (Merry Wives of Windsor.) the chief ingredient.) The family come

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out to watch them, and then the favorite verandah and enclosed lawn of the latter dance, a kind of kiss-in-the-ring, is sure to are crowded thickly with members and begin. Joining hands in a circle, all dance their families, sitting round little tables, round one in the middle, singing the old some with various refreshments, all talksong beginning,

ing gaily. “The repose of Vere de Vere,"

the passionless expression and half-extinDaar ging een Pater langs de kant, En het was in de Mei.

guished voices of which our bigh society

has been accused lately, by a Gallic obthe whole being translated as follows:- server, are not fashionable here. Dutch There went a friar along the way,

stolidity or phlegm is, I think, true of the And it was in the May !

lower classes ; but added to good humor It was in the May so gay,

and cheerfulness. Carriages with wellAnd it was in the May!

dressed people stand about in the shade.

Through the wood come likewise all man. Come, father, give your nun a kiss,

ner of little peasant gigs, and larger farmSix times you sure may have that bliss,

ers' hooded chaises from the fen-lands of Six times is not sevenl seven is not eight! Oh how sweet are this maiden's lips!

the dried lake. Here and there are

women with curious head-gear, among At the last verse the man in the middle many — too many, of late years - without kneels on one knee, and calling out a girl costume. Silver and gold skull-caps covto sit on his raised knee, kisses her severed with lace, from Friesland; other eral times, then retires. She, in turn, caps with pinned-up lappets and all mancalls out another swain who likewise ner of queer pins of gold-twisted wire kueels and kisses her; and so the danc. and diamond sparks; forehead ornaments, ing, singing ring goes noisily on. This coral beads; enormous winged muslin pastime is amongst the “good old cus. caps from down beyond Leyden. And toms ” recognized by all; and even young prettiest of all, the orphan girls of Haarpeople of good family, of school boy and lem, who wear black skirts, snowy kergirl ages, indulge in it at festive seasons. chiefs, with coquettishly modest muslin

When Sunday morning comes, we drive caps, long white mittens, and short into the French church at Haarlem ; dis- sleeves, one crimson, the other dark blue. regarding the glorious sounds of the ca. (The Amsterdam orphan girls wear a simthedral organ reaching us even outside as ilar dress, but one side of their skirts is we pass through the old market-place. crimson, the other black.) Even in winNo; the Dutch service and sermon in there ter they go bonnetless ; but then the maidis too prosily long. Our church is small, servants will go shopping also with only whitewashed, and bare to ugliness. The their clear muslin caps on their heads. few ladies sit on chairs in the middle, the Some of the horses in the carriages are fewer men in pent-house pews around. A very handsome. Here in a young cousin's cantique or two, a little évangile, a long dog-cart, comes an English chestnut who, prayer made by the black-gowned minis- after winning prizes at home, carries all ter, and a longer sermon, ended by a glass before him in Holland. His master goes of water, forms the service. Add also, yearly to England; and Yorkshire and the that for the collection two black velvet Islington shows see him regularly. In a tasselled nightcaps, with peaks, are handed field beyond the wood, a tent is pitched, round at the end of long poles. Inside and a pigeon-match — shooting at clay one peak is written églisc, on the other pigeons - going on. We recognize from pauvres. Church over, we get warmed afar various gentlemen from the country driving back in the cheery sunlight to round, and some lady friends, then we turn lunch. In the afternoon the large carriage homewards towards five o'clock. and pair of horses takes us all for an Life, on the whole, goes comfortably hour's drive through the woods of pretty and cheerily in the Haarlem neighborhood, Bloemendaal or Overween, full of charm- if quietly. There were a good many ing villas inhabited by rich Amsterdam country-house dinners going on during my merchants or retired Java planters. Then visit, and a few tennis parties; though about four we turn - like all the carriages tennis is not made the rage and accomof the neighborhood – towards Haarlem plishment it is in England. Most people Wood. "

Sunday afternoon in the wood were straying home from various German is a Haarlem sight. In one of the open watering-places; and many of those who spaces of the old wood, which is one of had country-seats would nevertheless go the chief beauties of the town, a band into town, the Hague, or Amsterdam, for plays opposite the club or societeit. The I some winter months. In Haarlem, what

VOL. LX. 3072

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of late years.

the Princess called la petite vie en ville with dignified ease rebuke the gratuitous was fast approaching; when, unless a hard familiarity of a well-meaning, but sadly frost stirred everyone's pulses, there misguided, fellow-traveller. That was at would most likely be few amusements ex. dinner, when we were all assembled on cept some dinners, and perhaps a rare those hard benches with movable backs, subscription ball. The Hague, however, on each side of that long cuddy table with at an hour's distance, has a gay season its crude display of cutlery and cruetof its own. And there people, as in stands, all so aggressively bright and matall capitals, give themselves airs, form ter-of-fact that they generally succeed in cliques, and set cancans and gossip afloat. chilling any faint-hearted appetite. Be. Nevertheless, though wherever human na- tween meals, though, with tablecloth and ture is being as it is !-- some scandals Newcastle porcelain removed, the aspect and heart-burnings will arise, yet the of this arrangement in cabin furniture is Dutch affirm that social life among them particularly desponding, always recalling is far more moral, purer, and happier than to me a certain desolate schoolroom to in France firstly, or secondly in England, which obstreperous boyhood was occasionMAY CROMMELIN. ally relegated, to grapple in solitude with

some disgusting problem. At the head of the table the captain presided, and next to him was a Hamburger merchant, who

had ordered a bottle of champagne and From The Cornhill Magazine

two glasses. When the steward had IN VERMLAND.

brought the wine, uncorking it with a pop THERE is, perhaps, no more popular and a flourish, as a gentle hint to the rest fallacy than the belief that European tour of us that we might with advantage follow ist resorts, worth visiting, have been long such a laudable example, the German had since explored. To assert that every spot filled one of the glasses, and with atroin Europe has not been prospected, time- cious self-complacency and an air as who tabled, and described in the crimson-cov. should say, “ There's a treat for you!” ered guide book, which is part and parcel pushed it towards our bold commander. of our civilization, would undoubtedly be The latter, with a look of supreme conrash. But, happily, these records have tempt, merely observed : “Thank you; I not always sufficed to turn on the full never take wine with my passengers." stream of light-hearted, light-headed sight- But now we were near our journey's seers who tramp along the corridors of end, and on the upper deck the captain old-fashioned hotels, thump the keyboards had been telling some of his experiences of long-suffering pianos in public morning to a small knot of men, which did not inrooms, drive up prices sky high for miles clude his Hamburger friend. around, and -gravest of all indictments ever come across a Norwegian pilot?” I - cause a host of pestering guides, with asked, cherishing a sailor's veneration for smatterings of English, to spring up like the indomitable courage of these northern mushrooms from a congenial soil. Many a sea-dogs. “ Did I?" he returned with

I bypath and roadway of an incomparable warmth ; " I should think so. Why, only and picturesque beauty can still boast an last year, bound for Christiansand, I came idyllic quietude, hitherto undisturbed by here in a dense fog that had lasted nearly the hurried feet of myriads. Foremost all the way across. Knowing I ought to among these may be counted lovely tracks be pretty close ashore, I stopped her en. on the western frontier of Sweden, and gines and blew the whistle; but not a bound thither we found ourselves on board | yard ahead could I see, and as night set one of the many steamers that call at Go-jin, I don't deny I didn't like it. Sudthenburg

denly I heard a voice : 'Do you want a It was late in spring. The passage pilot, sir?' and, looking over the side, across the North Sea, which had been a there, sure enough, was a pilot-boat. pleasant one, was drawing to a close. Well, the fog was as thick as a wall; but The Göta Elf, an estuary leading to the no sooner was the fellow on board, than town, would be entered early the next – Full speed! Starboard her helm!' morning, and now, with a smooth sea, a and away we went for the rocks. After ruddy twilight, and an accomplished sup- steaming ahead for about half an hour the per, our captain unbent somewhat and re- roar of the breakers became deafening, lated cheering anecdotes anent himself, and I could see absolutely nothing — nothhis passengers, and other seafaring mat- ing but the fog. Hard a-port!' the pilot ters. The day before I had watched him I sung out, and hard a-port it was. Close


" Did you


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to us the surf thundered among the rocks; ing, for miles along the shore, these bald but a moment later we were in smooth granite islets, some small, some large, lie water and were brought to an anchor as in serried rows with deep water between handy as if it had been clear daylight." them and the mainland a convenient arThe captain here walked away a few rangement that should be appreciated by paces to get a better look at something yachstmen, since it affords vessels of orforward. When returning he added : dinary size an opportunity for coasting “Sir, you may go through the length and agreeably in smooth water, even when the breadth of this world, but for hardiness Kattegat or the Skager Rack outside are in and skill you will not beat the Norwegian a mood severely unpleasant. There was pilot!"

a golden light upon the calm sea, a crisp, This warm encomium recalled a remi- invigorating atmosphere. In the far disniscence of my youth, which at the time tance the rocks took a bluish hue, rising made a vivid impression upon me, and up out of the water in a fantastic, airy which, though it has absolutely nothing to manner that almost equalled an eastern do with the present visit to Sweden, I mirage. As we entered the Göta estuary cannot refrain from mentioning. Imag- we overtook a crowd of open fishing-boats ine a stormy winter's day with a pale-blue making their way to town, deeply laden sky, a dark-blue turbulent sea, and a ship with glittering herring; in the level beams with close-reefed topsails. The gale of the early morning sun their red sails, howled in the rigging, ballooning the nar- the blue ocean, and the grey, granite row strips of canvas and rap-rapping the background harmonized admirably. Our running gear against the spars with weari. steamer passed close to many of the feet, some monotony. Under our lee, as far as and it was impossible not to be struck with the

eye could reach, stretched the iron- the fine physique of their crews, robust and bound coast of old Norway, where the stalwart, yellow hair and fair beards being waves, leaping unceasingly against the unmistakably the fashion. The Swedish black rocks, hurled jets of white foam high flag - dark blue with a gold cross - Aut. into the air. From out among these tered over the fort of Elfsborg, which granite boulders a small craft appears, crowns a small island in the middle of the showing at first only a spritsail with a red river. Anent this place there is a curious stripe down the middle ; but when it draws story. The young Danish admiral, Peter nearer we can see that the boat is covered Tordenkjold, the hero of many a bold with a deck, is broad of beam, clinker- romance in the eighteenth century, had built, and pointed fore and aft - shaped, fruitlessly besieged this stronghold for in fact, like a gull. There are but two weeks. At last he sent an envoy to the hands on board. The pilot - yellow- defenders to say that, having received bearded, broad-shouldered, with a sou’- heavy reinforcements — sufficient, in fact, wester on his head — stands by the mast; to take the place by assault at any time his son, a mere lad, has hold of the tiller. to save needless bloodshed he proposed Our ship has been kept close-hauled, that a truce should be agreed upon, and laboring heavily in the rough sea, and that the commandant should personally presently the boat is to windward a short inspect the new troops and so judge for distance off. With his hand firmly on the himself whether resistance was possible. tiller the boy is keenly watching his The invitation was accepted; the comchance, and the next moment runs us dan- mandant was cordially received and congerously near; then a rope is thrown; is ducted to a tent, where a sumptuous deftly caught by the pilot, who ties it banquet had been provided in his honor. round his waist, and the boat again sheers History then relates that the sailor host off. There is a moment's suspense; a here passed the bottle so freely and with big wave approaches; as it rises it lifts so much frank, engaging hospitality, that the small craft on its crest to a level with it was difficult, not to say impossible, for our rigging; in that instant the pilot the Swedish officers to refuse ; besides, jumps, and lands safely in our mizzen having suffered considerable privations shrouds. The lad meanwhile has promptly during the long siege, their heads were luffed, and alone in his nutshell, now lost perhaps not so strong as usual. Be this to sight, now heaved aloft, he makes his as it may, the troops were afterwards inway sturdily towards shore; but on board spected. The various regiments had been the frigate we know that “ all's well !” drawn up in the small town on the main.

A number of barren grey boulders land opposite; but when the mounted offiformed the first and rather disappointing cers had reviewed the ranks paraded in impression of Sweden. The next morn- one street and had turned into the next,


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the soldiers promptly and silently filed off well out of doors during prolonged severe at the other end and formed afresh in a winters. The long lines of narrow casethird street, this manœuvre being repeated ments mostly with double frames, the until all the town had been traversed. little spy-mirrors fixed outside, which, The effect was so imposing that the com- without opening the window, enable the mandant forthwith signed an unconditional people within to see up and down street, surrender.*

and the utter absence of balconies, all Beyond Elfsborg the timber trade as confirm this impression. Most of the serted itself with a vigor that was almost houses have only a height of two or three appalling. All thoughts of the landscape stories, and nowhere are there any venervanished. It is said that in Gothenburg able-looking piles, such as stimulate the the figure of speech most in use is “Three curiosity simply by the general air of hisby nine by fourteen,” a mysterious shib- tory that pervades them. Even such boleth - meaning an average plank, meas- minor and frivolous matters as plate-glass uring three inches in thickness, nine shop, fronts with varicolored displays, inches in width, and fourteen inches in which do so much to dispel the dulness of length - which may be fairly accepted as a street view, are few, considering the proof of the commercial prosperity of the undoubted wealth of the inhabitants. In town. Here on either side, as we steamed the canals lay small schooners and other up the river, ships of all classes and all craft from the inland lakes not crowds nations were taking in “deals” of yellow of vessels as in the towns of Holland, but pine. Huge timber-yards, with stacks of a few scattered here and there — and their wood tall as houses, lined the route; and masts, sails, and fluttering streamers gave everywhere, walking about with a long a welcome look of gaiety to the quay, plank on their shoulder, were men whom The population move about preoccupied nature apparently would have treated with and busy. The fair sex, undoubtedly fair more justice had she omitted to provide and mostly pretty, dress in good style them with heads, since in the matter of with decided elegance, and walk well, carrying planks with ease this troublesome notwithstanding the municipal preference appendage seems awkwardly in the way. for pointed stones. The men affect an But presently our engines were slowing, Anglo manner and bearing, grow flowing then an observatory, churches, and cus- whiskers, and the many who speak Entom-house buildings swung into view, and glish do so without the trace of an accent. a few moments later our steamer was But for a commercial town the bustle and tightly secured along the quay. Every traffic are slight save by the riverside, body flocked to the landing-stage, but where the lumber-yards absorb the princiforemost the Hamburger merchant, en- pal energy and interest. On the whole, cumbered with a bewildering variety of one arrives at the conclusion that this is travelling paraphernalia, and, lo and be the place where the Swedes make their hold ! our captain was actually shaking fortunes, that afterwards they may spend him cordially by the hand. There are them in Stockholm. For the ardent tour. none like sailors to forgive and forget. ist there are, of course, the ordinary

Gothenburg somewhat reminds one of amount of “sights,” and foremost among a Dutch city; it is neat, prosperous, and them figures a botannical garden of which highly respectable; it has canals, stone the citizens are proud. But these things bridges, and indifferent pavements. But come under guide-book particulars, and there the resemblance ceases. The quaint- Gothenburg represented to us on this ocness, the variety of color and structure casion merely a halting-place en route for that delight the eye in towns like Rot- Vermland, the province of forests and terdam, Amsterdam, and Schiedam are lakes, beloved by the Swedes and sung of looked for here in vain, and, judging from in one of their charming romances, the what one sees, the Swedes do not appear to “Vermlandovisa," as follows:excel in architecture. The rows of stolid, Ack Vermeland Du sköna, Du härrliga land, yellow-brick façades, varied now and again Du Krona bland Svea rikes länder.* by a dull grey where the masonry has been polished with a coating of cement, couple

A dainty little steamer, so commodi. uniformity of design with monotony of ously arranged, so scrupulously clean with aspect, and give the idea that the para- white paint, and so well provided with mount object had been to keep the cold excellent fare that we half fancied our.

. Oh! Vermland, thou lovely, thou most entrancing * Thus, at least, is it recorded in the Danish chron

land, icles ; doubtless the Swedish version differs somewhat. Thou crown of Svea's possessions, jewel of her band

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