tleman's house and household may be described.

truthful little description of a countryhouse visit in Holland. I simply jotted down what we did and saw day by day, Of the inmates I will only say that there aided by nearly everybody in the house.) is mine host first, who has more true Jacqueline then came down the steps with friends than almost any man; his daughthe sunniest "cousin's " welcome in the ter, who does the honors of his house in world. The " cousinship," by the way, summer - every winter he travels afar dates from some time about the Revoca- and her husband. There is also the lattion of the Edict of Nantes- -no matter ter's sister, on a visit here, nicknamed the for that, when folk are not only kith but" Princess." And lastly, the youngest son kind. The second breakfast, correspond of the house, whom we may call the "Irreing more to a French déjeuner than our pressible," while his pretty fiancée generlunch, was just ready, it being half past ally joins us. twelve o'clock. So, after washing off the There is much in the house too signifidust of the journey - and the very Sahara cant of its owner's yearly travels, and taste, cannot be worse than the sand which to be exclusively Dutch. His own study drove in at the train windows along from and his daughter's boudoir up-stairs are the Hague, threatening to silt me up quite Oriental with spoil from the bazaars alive, down I came. The very dining- of Cairo and Algiers, and from the Holy room has an old friend's air from pleasant Land. The passage-way and staircase memories. There is the thick_Deventer are hung with blue Damascus tiles. And carpet how handsome those carpets are, the pleasant large bedrooms on either side and how well they wear! it is a pity we the single corridor up-stairs are fitted do not know them better. Through the up with French furniture and cretonnes windows we look, on the one hand out at draped in the latest Parisian fashion. But the noble standard chestnuts in the lawn down-stairs there is something more disbehind the house; on the other side, tinctive in the pale-green-painted diningthrough the folding-doors set wide open room, namely, most curious drinkinginto the hall, and the plate-glass front glasses engraved with all manner of family door of the latter-likely enough open, scenes; also fine sets of old china behind too the view of the road beyond the the glass oval cupboards recessed in the trees (a view so usual, I might almost call wall. Out of this dining-room, there is a it indispensable, in Holland) is secured little solemn, satin drawing-room, with while we are at meals. "And now, you cabinets full of mine host's collected see, here are the Dutch dishes, you re- curios, but where nobody ever member," says Hugo hospitably. Yes, I And next this is a little ante-room full of remember the usual roast veal, the excel palms and greenery, not much used either. lent mashed and buttered potatoes, the But then comes the favorite sitting-room of cold pancakes-this last a truly national the house, opening out of the hall and the sweet. Lunch over, we adjourn, as in serre; the "antique room," an excellent general, to the terrace. There sitting specimen of what several other Dutch genagainst the house wall, where outdoor tlemen also have - or aim to have, for it chairs and a table make an al fresco draw-necessitates, perhaps, years of careful coling-room, we chat and watch the vehicles lection and selection. It is a nearly exact go by, while waves of the hand are ex- representation of an old-fashioned sittingchanged with friends. Then one carriage room, such as you shall see in interiors by turns in, that of Hugo's sister and brother- Nicolas Maes. The Dutch are intensely in-law. I remember their fine old house conservative; loving their forefathers' well, since "last time "I was here, with ways and traditions, and treasuring their its moat all round, except at what an- family heirlooms of old blue Oriental swered to a drawbridge (indeed, answering china, old native delft, carvings, brasses, better), a solid gravelled approach. And fine engraved glasses, and notably, their their kitchen garden, too; with all the old silver. This room, as several others I espalier fruit-trees trained into furniture saw, would give an impressionist the idea shapes of tables, sofas, and pianos, and of brown-ness, brightened by brasses and those on the wall in loyally regal names. blue china. Dark-brown are the high But their visit over, with kindly assurances wainscot, the panelled ceiling, carved I look "not in the least as if after crossing chimneypiece, and the beautiful old Corthe sea 99 fatigue drives me to take a dovan leather wall-hangings stamped in nap before unpacking and six o'clock din- faded gold; brown also the carved stiff furniture and its cushions. But the gleam of old brass chandeliers and sconces

ner.

Meanwhile, the interior of a Dutch gen

comes.

brightens the gloom, many of the latter are called, are universally used in Holland.

set round the wainscot ledge being of strange shapes an antiquarian would vainly covet. And besides, the usual brass fireirons hung up on either side the old tiled fireplace are some less known in England; a brass repoussé box holding dried hempstalks to light candles, great snuffers, and a long blow-pipe for the fire, also useful in extinguishing candles placed high. Two heavy brass handles depend also from the high chimney-board, their use puzzling me. "What are they for?" Why, for old gentlemen to hold by when lifting up one foot to warm their toes!" explained Hugo cheerily. "Our ancestors were heavy, you see, and could not stand long on one leg without support."

The churches are full of coarse ones for footstools; you see the same in the peasants' houses, in the bathing-boxes at Zaandvoort, with some old bathing-woman's savory stew keeping hot over them in the especial house upon wheels that is her home by day, and that of her progeny ; and a small urchin in sabots sitting on one in winter to warm himself while munching a carrot or an apple is a frequently funny little sight. Smaller carved ones are used by the people to keep the teapot brewing, and in the nurseries of rich people are useful for hot milk and other infantile wants. "We always use one for our children, with a spiritus lampas inside," explained the Princess to me, speaking of After the brasses the blue china re-her small brothers and sister. Not to lieves the eye in the rich sombreness of take an inventory of all Lindenroede the room. Big jars, and lesser porcelain of all shapes, are ranged on the wainscot and all about the room; with queer deft plaques showing sea-pieces, and shaving dishes with nicks to hold the victim's neck. From a general impression coming to details, two objects in the room strike the eye before all the other furniture by their excessive size. The first is a nobly massive walnut press, to hold the family linen and best china. The second Come outside the house and you shall a huge Bible on a stand, THE BOOK dwarf- see Dutch pleasure-grounds. The lawn is ing all other light mundane literature in perfectly flat, of course, but — what some the room by its size and solemnity. This English who imagine Holland a vast handsome armoire for the housekeeper's plain studded with a few pollards, do not treasures is a pride and prime necessity in understand the trees are so fine and all the Dutch houses I have seen. And so many, they bound the view and keep nearly all of them possess also, as down one's thoughts from much noticing the stairs in the servants' room at Linden- level ground. A brown piece of water, roede, handsome carved mangles, and shaded by weeping willows, winds through screw-presses for keeping table linen al- the trees till bounded by a little rise ways flat and tidy, these being sometimes topped by a small temple. Every country so ornamental as to stand in the dining-house around is sure to have such a piece room. But the antique room, has some of water, larger or smaller; and many have rarer curios, such as a carved board and roller-pin, date 1650, for mangling small fine things I was told, and hanging near it from the wainscot a very ancient deep-cut yard measure.

Lastly, amongst old spinning-wheels, and some Hindeloopen furniture of great age, painted with (of course) Biblical scenes gaudily, are some square wooden boxes standing about on the floor, carved all over and pierced at the top. These are foot-stoves, still used by some ladies, with a chafing-dish of hot charcoal or peat embers placed inside. Hugo took up one in fine brass, delicately opened-worked. "This was my grandmother's stove; she used to carry it to church with the handle over her arm." These "stoves," as they

house, I will only add that the kitchen is a pleasant sight, its walls glistening with tiles and bright with coppers and brass; and that in the garret is stored away one of the carved and gilded small sledges, so curiously painted, that one sees in curiosity shops in Amsterdam or the Hague. It is waiting for a hard winter there has been no frost to speak of for two or three years past.

a similar little temple. But this being far down in the grounds, is rather to please the eye from a distance than for a philosophic retreat. A love of solitary seclusion is about the last idea, it seems to me, in most Dutch minds. Burton's "Anatomy of Melancholy " would be quite out of favor with my cheerful-minded acquaintance. They love, as I said, to sit out on their verandahs or terraces, or balconies, within view of the king's highway, and those who pass thereby. Not content even with this, a previous generation built the old-fashioned pavilions one still sees here and there on the road, with large glass windows often reaching to the ground, "to see and to be seen," though the house door is only a stone's throw

distant. In these one will often see fami- | have houses in Haarlem for economy and lies sitting of an afternoon round the cen- quiet, will go to their offices and work till tral table, with perhaps some newspapers, I or 2 P. M. without food. and beverages. The Lindenroede summer-house beside the gate has been long taken away, however. To return to the temple, the thick coppice around it is half smothered with wild hops, bending in graceful green tassels; jays and magpies are chattering overhead among the tall trees. To right and left, sandy paths wind through the wood; and near the house lies a large kitchen garden with long rows of vineries, etc. ; still nearer a bright | little flower-plot and the orangery, where the big plants in tubs that stand about on the lawn are housed in winter.

The womankind left behind do odds and ends of work and writing, then lure out the master of the house from his Oriental study to find ripe figs in the beautiful big kitchen garden, and try the grapes sunning on the south wall. Or else we gather roses and arrange them, or take out work and books to the "tent," a little wooden arbor facing the small flower-garden embosomed in trees. The books are always English Tauchnitz volumes, or French novels; mostly the latter. Or again, we perhaps cross the road to a pleasant wood belong. ing to Hugo's brother-in-law and sister, Having described the house, as to the whose demesne ranges with Lindenroede, Dutch manner of life, -well, Linden- so closely indeed, that, but for a rustic roede was Liberty Hall. Breakfast, to bridge over a water trench green with begin with, was ready at eight o'clock for duckweed and shaded by willows, the the master of the house, and often still sandy shrubbery paths would seem to inwaiting at ten o'clock for the younger termingle. The wood rises agreeably in (male) scions. This is easy, for a mahog- little ups and downs, once, no doubt, sandany bucket lined with metal and contain- hills ages ago. Down in a sunny hollow ing peat embers in which a brass kettle is lies a pond full of water-lilies. We seat kept singing, is always placed beside ourselves above on a bench shaded by a every Dutch breakfast-table; and appears coppice, burning red with dying mapleat chance five o'clock teas too, and after | leaves here and there, while surely that dinner in the drawing-room. The kettle-flash of living blue over the water down bucket in Holland is the most characteris- there was a kingfisher; and close by a tic object I can think of. At this break-rabbit pops out on the turf and sits unfast one only eats bread and butter, adding sometimes to the latter thin slices of gingerbread, which is very good; or a wafer of rye bread. Concerning the latter, there are very few things I don't like in Holland; but, without a shadow of doubt, I detest rye bread. Eggs are boiled, if some one cares for them, in the kettle. The old-fashioned way was by means of a small sort of landing-net in which they were first popped; the newer one is to have wire or silver draining-spoons to lift them out. But the young men of the family going off to business in Haarlem do not even trouble the tea and bread and butter, much less the eggs. About a small cupful of milk and a wafer of rye bread, often nothing but a hasty glance at the morning papers, and they are off, smiling, with bon jours to the ladies left behind. And bon jour is echoed back to the husband bound for the law court, with viel plaisir (much pleasure) added to the Irrepressible soon to become a Benedick, who is off to the Hague to see races, or the Downs to try sporting-dogs in a chasse, and who will send notes at night to an English acquaintance on le sport in Holland, to be published in the Field. Many men whose business is in Amsterdam, but who

heeding our talk. Even putting aside chat about old acquaintances made in past visits on both sides across the water, my Dutch friends had plenty to talk about. Jacqueline and her husband had lately been in London; and, of course, to Paris in the spring previously to see theatres and buy dresses and have a "good time," which is a yearly necessity if not a more frequent one. And there was some talk about a possible trip soon to Constantinople and back by Vienna. Hugo, who had spent last winter travelling in Spain, was bound in November for Asia Minor-taking Paris and Cannes first on his way. The Irrepressible and his fiaucée were consulting upon Algiers for their honeymoon. The Princess lastly, after a short season in London, had spent the rest of the summer wandering in the Salzkammer. gut. And outside the household, almost every one I met seemed to go to the Rivi era in spring, and to German wateringplaces in summer. They say the air is heavy in Holland; certainly on first coming one sleeps very sound. Perhaps, after a time in these lowlands, higher, bracing air would be needed.

Coming back for déjeuner at half past twelve we would read the Figaro or other

high literature on the terrace, or write | roadside, these being just broader water letters till, at three o'clock, the landau ditches. Sometimes, when there has been would be at the door. a strong wind, and the sluices have been "Would you like to see a silver wed- opened, they are cleanly brown enough; ding?" Hugo asked me one day. "Our but often, too often! they are grass-green neighbors, the M―s, are holding theirs; with duckweed, though there is life and as this is their reception day we must enough on them of mud-boats and barges go, like all their acquaintance, to see the and such-like crafts. By the way, it was presents and pay our respects." We a wonder to me that there are so few ducks drove off therefore that afternoon, each on these same canals, in spite of the "drest in their Sunday best," to a coun- famous dictum of canards, canaux, and try-seat of which the translated name is the third unkind word. Often, instead of Greendale and Woodbeck. It belonged duckweed, the water is reddish with some formerly to the English Hope family. The other equally small aquatic plant, the Roman Catholic Church at Heemstede effect being picturesque enough in colorwas adorned with flags as we passed; so ing. One little picture of this very day I was the priest's house and the turnpike. remember vividly, of two beautiful snowy Passing in at the gates of a large, closely goats lying on the green bank of just such wooded demesne, the lodge, then the gar- a reddish canal; it was bordered with dener's house, and further on the stables, reeds, and overhung by willows and alder. all set down among the trees, were like- Contrary to preconceived ideas, there wise gay with flags and green wreaths. are as many goats in this country as Some distance from the house was a large sheep and ducks are missing. After visitsolitary pavilion in the wood, built to playing a neighbor, owning one of the noble billiards in, I was told. Carriages were passing and repassing on the drive as we approached, and the gravel sweep was all enclosed with wreaths of greenery, and had flags and three triumphal arches exactly as for a first wedding. The festivities, in the same way, are supposed to last a fortnight, during which time the green decorations are kept up. The visitors congratulated their host and hostess, who received them in a room where the presents, mostly of silver, were laid out, and each fresh set of guests, after a few minutes' stay, came away. In the evening there were to be an illumination of Chinese lamps in the grounds and fireworks for the peasantry, with sack races and other such diversions.

Then we drove on, for more visits, along the brick-paved road shaded by trees, past smiling cottages so snug and tidy they seemed to promise happy interiors. It will be understood that always on either side of the said road runs an open water-ditch instead of any hedges, walls, or banks; and looking over this ditch into the green, level meadows beyond, dotted with piebald cows, one must further imagine smaller water trenches again (always full), dividing the general green plain into separate portions. But here, near Haarlem, the country-seats are so many, that woods constantly break in closely on the uniformity of the level, whilst bright white villas, seldom far apart, greet us along the road from behind their short green lawns. Here and there, very often indeed, we come on canals by the

beech avenues which abound here, stretching in long tunnels of deep gloom to a little arch of light far down, we turned homewards by fresh woods and pastures new. At home, we could already see from the gate the Irrepressible and his pretty fiancée, awaiting us on the terrace, as also Jongherr R., with pleasant-looking bottles upon the table, suggestive of wines and minerva water. After the heat of the afternoon, refreshment was grateful, and five o'clock tea is as yet new-fashioned in Holland. The young men drove off presently in a fly to the club in town, for an hour before six o'clock dinner; which I mention only because England, being club-land essentially, is apt to imagine that other people have few or no clubs, and so wonder what men do with themselves. People generally ask as to another country, "What sort of food did you have? Well, to choose out the most genuinely Dutch dishes, we had, perhaps, potato purée, or bouillon, flavored with chervil, and containing balls of veal forcemeat. The fish might be soles, or plaice, but, to give me kindly a more national delicacy, we had water bass from the canals sometimes. These are about the size of our trout, and are served up, half-a-dozen or so, in a deep dish, swimming in the water they are boiled in, flavored with "flatleaved parsley." (The English name for this plant I cannot say, it being strange to me; but my cousin Hugo declared it unknown to us.) Water bass are eaten with thin sandwiches of rye bread; but without the latter, and the bread and butter only,

I thought them excellent. Another night | course, peasants speaking to each other we had a jack, done Dutch fashion. When of their landlords would say 'the count,' boiled, all the small bones were removed, or the baron,' that is all." and the fish chopped up and mixed with Before we said good-night, the tea and butter, pepper, onions, and savory herbs. coffee-cups were all washed on the tray Then, rolled back into fish-like shape, the by our lady of the house, and dried with a jack is browned, bread-crumbed, and eaten fine napkin, as were the teaspoons, which always with salad. It was really very were replaced in a satin-lined glass case. good. Next came generally roast or Then the footman being rung for, they stewed veal or beef, mutton being so poor were all locked again in the armoire. it is rarely eaten. For vegetables, invari- This washing of the cups is one of the ably potatoes, excellently cooked with but good old customs against which it must be ter; and besides those we likewise use owned the younger generation grumble. boiled endives and bread-crumbed cab- "Your ladies do not have this trouble!" .bage. Partridges followed, sometimes au "But," interpose the elders, English choux, or other game. Wild ducks were people do not use every day such old cups plentiful, and some neighbors had just worth from £1 to £3 each." "Hé!" sigh had an early dawn's sport, out in the the young folk, "we would rather then dunes, getting ninety-four birds to four use common services like the English. guns. "Not so bad, but still not very Of what use is it to have plenty of sergood," said the Irrepressible. Of sweets vants, if we must do their work?" Oldand savories I need give no hints, because fashioned Dutch people go further, I am they were mostly of French origin. Des- told, washing up themselves knives, forks, sert over, both ladies and gentlemen return and platesno matter how many their together to the drawing-room for coffee, servants-looking over all the linen from which is drunk in the smallest and most the wash, and pulling out any lace edges precious of handleless old blue china. themselves. But this I never saw. Such a set with us would be behind a

66

Coming down stairs rather early anglass case. Then come liqueurs-cognac other glorious morning, in came the and aniseed, the latter being a favorite. master of the house cheerily from the The gentlemen went out this warm even- fresh outside air. "Good-morning to you, ing to smoke their cigarettes on the ter- ladies. I have just been to your uncle's race for a little while. Then they dropped already to congratulate him it is his in again to the cheery antique room for birthday." In the course of the day all chat and tea. The mahogany peat-bucket the rest likewise went to congratulate; and and its kettle had been placed by the foot- several more birthdays happening during man, as usual, beside the table, and very my visit, all were equally remembered by old Chinese little teacups, almost as valu- troops of friends as by relations. Some able as the blue porcelain, were ranged presents are perhaps given, and the garon a wooden tray truly Dutch. It was dener would send in what I may call a one of the finest specimens of a kind cushion of flowers, carefully arranged as a eagerly sought after by curio-hunters, be- table centre-piece. Just as our little ing excellently painted in oils, showing the breakfast was ended, Jacqueline called to interior of an old house, Teniers-like, the me, "Look! there is the aanspreker. thick edge being gilded. There was a Do you remember him? I wonder who great demand for English ghost stories is dead!" I saw a strange figure going that evening. After careful inquiries, I swiftly to the servants' side door. A tall do not believe Holland boasts one genu- man dressed in lugubrious black smalline, respectable family ghost. The jong- clothes, and silver-buckled shoes, black herr alone of my hearers had any rever-deep-flapped coat and waistcoat, his head ence for the supernatural. Him I name to mention that there are but three classes of nobility here, that of jongherr, then baron, and, highest, count. The Dutch are very simple as to titles, and never address their friends as M. le baron, or comte.

"Every one knows they are barons or counts, so it would be thought affected or snobbish to call them so," Hugo explained. 66 Servants may sometimes use the phrase, but as often say only mynheer. Of

crowned by a three-cornered hat and long weepers. He carried some papers, for his duty is to go round the neighborhood and announce all deaths. This time it was no one of importance. Another curious old custom relates to births, and the towns of Haarlem and Medemblik alone own with pride its right. In 1573, when the Spaniards took Haarlem after its famous siege, they sent notice that all houses wherein lay a mother and new-born babe should have their knockers muffled in white for a