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"he came to dinner in knickerbockers and turning in a tired, dusty crowd, still trying rough clothes although ladies were pres. hoarsely to sing, and two in the rear supent," while a pair of my countrymen, bet. porting each other. (I wonder that tipsy ter dressed, were highly approved. An- men are not constantly drowned in the other morning we ladies started off so deep, open ditches by the roadsides here, early that all the housemaids in Haarlem, but “there is a Providence”. as Jacquewearing their regulation lilac prints, clear line quotes.) This infantry uniform, blue, muslin caps with a thick frill all round with yellow worsted facings and tassels, (some with a Friesland silver skull-cap, hairy knapsacks, and pointed caps, like shining under lace), were busy syringing those of our convicts, is very ugly. Other the windows with the brass household men in Holland never struck me as being pumps for that purpose I have never seen small, but these ill-grown soldiers in badly with us; more's the pity! We went off fitting garments did not raise my enthufor a good day's shopping," and hiring a siasm. The hussars, however, looked “monkey,” a small open carriage, with a smart. Their song, said Hugo, was probcoachman wearing a glazed white hat and ably the following one, which is doggrel black cockade, we drove around to our nonsense, but a favorite : heart's content. N.B. — The shops have

Fight, brothers, for the last time, a horribly close, damp smell; but the

For we go to the camp at Zeist; memory of a good lunch at the Café

No more money in our pockets, Riche abides with me yet.

No more buttons on our breeches, One morning I was awakened by the So it won't be for very long. sound of many voices singing outside. " It was the soldiers passing. The regi

The corporation's members

Are not so much to blame; ment in garrison marching out towards

For now regarding doggies Leyden," explained Hugo later. "They

They've gone and taxed the same. always sing most of the way.” We went

Oh, miss, take care of your doggie, to Haarlem that day, as on many others, Take care of your little dog! when I saw all its sights and ways. The great Frans Hals pictures, the museums

I interested myself to know the songs of antiquities, the dogs harnessed under of the people, and was told that each year the handcarts piled with washing or vege- at the first great kermis (or fair) some ditty tables (a law forbids their pulling in front); with a catching air becomes popular, and the weekly market where all manner of is immediately the song of the season, things from old clothes to kettles are laid sung at every other kermis by peasants, round the cathedral walls; and the zuur- soldiers, and townsfolk. A merry little kraams (sour booths). These latter are one is, the cleanest of little green booths, where

John, buy me a fairing! hard-boiled eggs piled in a net, or five Maiden, no money have I ! onions in vinegar are laid ready on tiny The gold has run out of my pockets, white plates, or gherkins and such pickled Why should I then a fairing buy? " sourness can be bought for a penny apiece by workmen or market folk. There

I was disappointed in finding no better is also a little parlor end of the booth, have odes and epics in plenty, 'I was told,

volks-lieder, while in cultured poetry they screened by snowy blinds, where these but few songs that are sung. delicacies may be more largely indulged in. I saw no gin palaces nor publics of

Hugo and his daughter are director and our lower, common kind; but cafés, of

* I give two more little songs that are old favorites course, with seats out of doors and inside ; of the people. The first begins as it mimicking a furthermore, some knockered, sanctimoni- drun's tattoo.

“Robbé-de-be dop! ously white-blinded houses as if a corpse

And my gold is gone! lay indoors; these are the best wine or

I lost it at the Swan (inn). spirit shops. Again, there was the cathe

The man's name was Jan,

And his wife's Suzanne, dral, much restored and improved lately,

And the daughter, little and the famous organ.

was curious to try if my memories thereof were exagger- “ Lot is dead! ated; but no! such an ocean of sweet

Eliza's dying fast.

That is right that is right! sounds, so grand, so deep, such music worthy of heaven, in my poor judgment I had not heard since. Coming home about

" I'm not dead yet, I'm not dead yet!

Called out the old, old witch, four o'clock — that day the soldiers had

She looked around, she looked around, passed Lindenroede we met them re

And raised the bottle to her lips."


Lot is dead!

Then I'm their heir at last.


directrice of a small almshouse (Hofic) for, but out ran an anxious girl with sponge servants of the C-family, which they and duster, apologizing to mynheer. Takshowed me with interested pride. It ing our seats in one of the two comfortable stands picturesquely in the Haarlem large carriages, away puffed an engine, Wood, and was built in 1636 by William brushing so closely past hedges that the van Heythusen, a Haarlem benefactor, branches often whipped the windows; passing by marriage to the C--'s. His through hamlets all green-shuttered, mus. portrait by Frans Hals hung till lately in lin-curtained, white-blinded, passing so the little "regent-room” of the almshouse, near the doors it was a marvel none of the but was sold, after a family council, to many small children shuffling about in the Brussels museum for eight thousand their sabots were not run over. (Decidedflorins, and the proceeds support another ly, these universal snowy muslin curtains old woinan here in comfort. The pleasure and the scollop-edged blinds drawn jealof the crones in seeing their beloved di- ously down, with the curved blue wire rector and directrice was delightful. Each screens before all windows alike, in town bad the most exquisitely tidy of carpeted or village, will always remain in my mem. rooms, with a curtained box bed, in which ories of Holland.) We had glimpses of hung a pretty rope and handle, to "pull old country houses, white-painted, greenthemselves up by.” Each also receives shuttered, standing among trees with only every week a florin and some beef, butter, a lawn and some sluggish brown water and turf. I could enlarge on the exquisite between them and the road. Through tidiness and the prettiness of other homes thick coppices, woods, out again into true of the poor I saw in Holland, but space Dutch pastures stretching away level to fails. On the whole, in this small and the (drained) Lake of Haarlem, dimly prosperous land, everybody seems com- indicated by lines of poplars; next come fortable. The equal division of property market-gardens that supply Haarlem and between sons and daughters brings about, Amsterdam with vegetables, and the peasdoubtless, the many often very early mar- ants with the winter flowers the poorest riages. The eldest son keeps the family cherish in their houses. Their fancy bome, and if impoverished by giving an changes — this year it was all for small equivalent to his brothers and sisters, pink spireas, I believe, and hundreds of

Why, then he marries a rich wife !| these were being grown, to be sold for two The many here must not suffer for the or three pence each. Then came peateldest; and though the result is, that there fields stocked with turf, and under the lee are few great fortunes as with us, neither of some wood where lay a brown canal, is there such excessive poverty. The or at a village bridge, great boats were land is full of smiling villas; there is no piled with the fuel. (I love seeing a big “keeping-up of appearances.” And Dutch brown sail gliding through the meadows ladies are encouraged to spend more on at a distance, where no water seems to their dress by fathers and husbands than be !) There were sandy fields full of their English sisters, while pleasant trips gladioli, almost past their bloom, and of seem matters of course. Certainly, ser-red-hot-pokers” (readers will kindly exvants' wages and house-rent are much cuse the familiar name, considering that cheaper than with us.

most of us know the plant by no better). I had been promised that my wish to We stopped at larger villages with slatedsee a dairy farm should be gratified. spired churches, and clipped trees all Accordingly we started early next morn-a-row before the houses, while a trekschuit ing to visit one some miles off, taking was often waiting, too, for passengers. on its friendly owner, Baron van H, by the canal close by. This kind of barge surprise. Off we sallied, walking to contains a big cabin, and inside this, or Heemstede village, past the Thirsty-Hole on the roof, the peasants journey compublic-house, with its closed door and fortably, if slowly, with their baskets, for muslin-curtained windows looking as re- long distances where roads or conveyances spectable as its neighbors, even more do not suit. decorous, though within are strange bot- The steam-tram stopped after an hour tles labelled with such names dear to and a half opposite an entrance gate with the peasantry as Parfait Amour, and pillars, on which, as is usual in Holland, others too coarse for ears polite. We sat was the name of the demesne -'T Huis down at the Heemstede turnpike to await | Terlyden. We walked up the sandy drive the steam-tram which runs along the coun. I curving through thick trees, and just at try roads from Haarlem to Leyden. Our the house met Baron van H himself. fellow painted bench was perfectly clean, Eager greetings followed. He led us into


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the study and called his wife with viva- and found the dairywoman herself in a cious cheerfulness. “Of course he would cool paved kitchen where the principal show me the farm, and his onion (bulb) object was a big pump. She wore a lace fields and everything." The children cap with lappets, as usual, pinned up, and were brought in to be admired by their spirally twisted gold pins, while her neighbors and relations; and naturally all spouse, coming down a ladder from the but the youngest infant could speak garret, was clad in wide blue serge trouFrench, and would soon learn English. sers and white shirt, and was in his stock. One four-year-old lovely cherub, Schelto, inged feet- as a man should be in such a was coaxed on his father's knee to recite spick-and-span home. They showed us some baby poetry learnt as a greeting for their nicely carpeted parlor; it was also his grandmother's birthday. This, begin. a bedroom, though all signs thereof were ning in a murmur, listened to with deep neatly hidden behind the wooden doors, interest, ended in a triumphant shout amid like cupboards sunk in the wall. Up three loud applause. Children seem to me to be steps to a beautifully kept Sunday parlor more “brought forward” than in England, then, with red carpet-strips, muslin cur. and certainly the grown-up ones recall tains, and a fine box bed " for guests their own petting with much glee, and (who never come !). Down below the declare the system endears family rela- kitchen by a step-ladder we dived into a tionships.

large twilight dairy, smelling deliciously “There is a Scotch name just the same fresh, and furnished with long tables of as that of my boy, Schelto, I have been fresh cheeses, butter, and pans of milk. told?” said the baron inquiringly. But " This man and bis wife make four cheeses as “Sch” is pronounced in Dutch some a day; two in the morning, two in the thing between a rasping choke and a evening," commented our host. Now to cough first, Sh, and then a horrible the cow-house just across the kitchen sound as if a fishbone had stuck in one's passage, “So that the man and wife can throat (Oh, the torture of trying to pro- hear any disturbance among the animals." nounce Scheveningen rightly !), I was A long room met our view, with a red-tiled puzzled a little before suggesting Sholto. glistening passage down the middle, * That is it - all right! It is a Friesland where well scoured boards on trestles were name, and Friese and Scotch have many set laden with cheeses. "I will count words all the same. Why, of course. these," exclaimed the Princess eagerly. I will tell you a common rhyme we have,” On either side were piled snowy cheeseput in Hugo

presses, with brass cheese-scoops, snuffBread, butter, and cheese,

ers, candlesticks, and in fact all the brass Is good English, and good Friese.

bravery of the house laid out so to look pretty, as an every-day matter.

To right “And your Dutch Kom binnen (Come and left in winter, the horned heads of in), always reminds me of the Come fifty-eight black and white cows would ben' of a Scotch peasant wife," I added, be seen. “Now we must come by the in contribution to our philological efforts, walls and see how the cows stand," said further discerning that the house stood by Hugo. “ Yes, yes,” cried the baron," you the beek of Leyden, answering to our beck, all would naturally walk along the middle save that it is a sluggish stream indeed; here, and see the cows' heads only. But while the Friesland terms binnen and in winter the peasants come in often to buiten for inside and outside the house, admire the cows, and as from the after might be the “but and ben ” of Scottish part of these animals - (eh, what, Hugo, inner and outer rooms.

isn't that what they call it in English ? But there was no time to lose, unless Why do you laugh?) the behind is the we wished to lose the returning train. besť way to view — I find them standing The baron hurried us outside to the court- here with their mouths open, saying, “ ! yard and began to act guide and inter- heel mooë ! (how fine), what a beautiful preter with most infectious gaiety but cow that one is !” The cows have slightly. explicitness. Here was an ivied building, raised platforms of stone, only half covo with dormer windows, and cooing pigeons ered with wood to ease their' hind feet. on the thatched roof, which roof covered Under the fore feet is sand, most carethe cow-house, dairy, and dwelling-house fully marked now, it being summer season, of the dairyman and his wife. A row of in ornamental patterns, although there sabots stood significantly outside the good was no one to see it, as we might say, not wife's door. We entered a fresh-scoured recognizing easily a love of artistic effect passage, with a neat carpet-strip down it, for its own sake in a simple peasant dairy.


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farmer and his wife. (The dairy farm is comfort creep over one's mind, and one no show one, and Baron van H. does not could forget the world's whirl gladly – concern himself therewith, having let it for a while. to these good souls.) A cord was stretched A bridge was laid over the stream near along, the cow-house above the “after the farmyard. Here was a little round

of the cows, to which all the fifty- arbor, where the old baron, our host's eight tails are tied up in winter, lest they grandfather, used to sit at tea on summer should dirty their owners. “ And are the evenings and watch with pride his lowing cows washed ?" I ask, with vague mem- kine being driven in from the far meadories of Murray., “ If they are very dirty, ows and milked just across the stream, certainly; and when they come in for win- where he had them in full view. It would ter and go out in spring." My attention make a quaint little sketch, the old-fashwas specially drawn to the deep runnels, ioned gentleman taking his ease with a whence the cows' manure is removed sev- dignified Dutch lady of that time presiding eral times a day, " for we consider that over the peat-bucket and kettle, and caremost valuable, especially for the bulbs !” fully handling the blue china teacups. I was impressively told. The great kitch: Around them shadowing trees with the en pump is brought into play, too, and brown Leyden's flow beneath ; across the lukewarm water from the boiler constantly water a herd of cattle in the foreground sluiced down the cow-house. “One hun of the plain, bathed in the golden radiance dred and thirty-six cheeses,” announced of such sunsets as Cuyp knew. Princess Cornelie, returning at this junc- After seeing the pleasure-ground and ture. But as she had forgotten to count admiring a pair of noble goats lying in all those in the dairy her statistics were the grass that are driven by the eldest

boy unkindly declared wanting.

and girl, (the goat-carriages full of small Across the brick-paved courtyard next children being a pretty sight here), we to the “summer dairy where they sit,” paid a rapid visit to the bulb-house. said the baron ; but whether cheeses or Monsieur van H- takes the greatest farmer's folk I doubted, however con interest in bulb-growing, which he does cluded both, seeing tables and chairs, and in his sandy fields to the same extent as a low wooden platform usual here over many other gentlemen at home try farmcold tiled floors. Here were the presses ing on a small scale. The bulb-house was and vats for cheese-making. But know- full of tiers of wooden trays, rising in a ing more about butter, I went into the framework to the ceiling, and spread with next room to study the churn and dipper, bulbs. More, of all kinds, filled hampers finding they use the whole milk here, not standing ready to be carried to the fields, the cream in Devonshire fashion. A cheap where, by good luck, work was now going butter is made from the particles left on on. But first, even with the warning calls the surface of the whey-vats after the of Hugo in our ears, who was leader and cheese is made. The remainder is given brains-carrier of the party — the baron to the pigs. These were in a house near, hurried me in to see his pleasant diningbut having no open yard smelt too horri- room. “Here ! here is something quite bly for some of us to dare to inspect them, characteristic you must see!” It was a in spite of being taken by our laughing handsome massive walnut armoire, which host for cockneys.

when unlocked displayed piles of fine At the end of the farmyard lay, con- damask, laid on shelves edged with lace veniently, the brown slow water of the stamped paper.

6. That is the correct old Leyden picturesquely shadowed by trees. fashion,” he explained, then we both Flat big boats were moored under their hastened outside to appease our best of branches; on the level bank a woman was time-keepers. " It must be a lovely sight washing at a landing-step. Across the when all your flowers are in blow," I said, stream, and away, in dim distances of as we went through sandy walks under the green shading to hazy blues lay the low trees and out into a meadow. “Yes, but quiet meadows that seem ideal pasture unhappily, it is often such cold weather. grounds as such alone! Fat and green The rain comes, and so !- they look diversified by wood, and still waters that wretched; it is a pity.” know no babbling hurry, but brood where The bulb-grounds were surrounded and the cattle feed; with no hills to mount and intersected into square plots by hedges of see what lies beyond suggesting change ; saplings. The soil was almost pure sand, hardly a sight to cause the mind to stray, which, when plentifully manured, produces save distant spires pointing heavenwards. such fine hyacinths and tulips as can be A still, sleepy landscape, where rest and I grown nowhere else. “The men are pre

VOL. LX, 3094




cisely planting hyacinths. : now you usual wearing the curious square silver shall see just how they do it,” said our frontlets on their foreheads they affect host. A long bed was hollowed in the here. It will be a great pity should the sand about two inches deep, and on either costumes die out. Nevertheless, it is very side knelt a man drawing lines carefully comical to see the effect of a straw bonwith a forefinger and thickly laying in net with brown ribbons and tawdry flowsmall bulbs. This is by no means at hap-ers, perched on the top of a gold skull-cap hazard, for so many go to a row, and bags and lace lappets; or adorned by the thin of differently sorted sizes lay at hand. forehead band and the tufts of horsehair Seven bulbs in a row signify these are or wool on each side of the cheeks that salable. When eight little plants raise mimic the real liair, either tucked away their green noses above ground it means invisibly or cropped. Yet this is a most that line must be undisturbed for the year. usual sight. None are sold till after three years' growth. When my last Sunday came, the boding As this bed was being planted the next news that a preacher was expected who was hollowed out, so that its layer of sand only drew breath and drank his usual re-covered this one; so on with the most glass of water after an hour and a half of methodical preciseness. " It is beautiful sermon, led me to prefer my English for me to see these flowers,” said Mon- prayer-book and pleasant room for the sieur van H-; “first crocuses, then morning. What glorious weather! Quite hyacinths, tulips, anemones, lilies — al. warm again; and a true St. Martin's sumways a succession! And I hope to make mer. It was now nearly October, and the money by them, too." “ But do you not trees were as green and leafy still as in send the cut flowers to the London mar- July. Hearing a murmur of laughing ket, or elsewhere? Surely_they would voices outside my window, I looked out, sell well,” I suggested. “Too well," he and saw the coachman in his white linen said, laughing. "We used to send them, stable-jacket gathering beech-nuts busily and they arrived quite fresh in Covent with his children under the fine old trees. Garden. Then we found when the En. They were opening them and preparing glish could buy flowers, they would not the kernels carefully for their dessert. buy bulbs — which last pay us much bet- Rich and poor eat beech mast with relish ter. It was the same thing with our peas- here ; at home I have only seen country ants. So now we say,,' No; buy our bulbs children take the trouble to pick this. if you want flowers. (I had heard the The other day the coachman's young stepsame account before.) He took up a bulb daughter, of about thirteen, made an unto show me the system of dividing them. conscious illustration of the ways of her “ See here! I cut this in three parts country and sex. She was sitting on a almost — only leave them hanging together chair near the coachhouse door mending

then you get twenty-five young ones. a heavy serge petticoat, with a most deBut there is another way.'

." He scooped out mure air, her sleek, fair hair divided in the flower-core of another bulb neatly with two plaits shining in the autumn cool sunhis pocket-knife, leaving a cup-shaped hol- light, a string of coral beads round her low. “There! That (the cup) will make neck (as is very usual), and her feet raised fifty little ones, and this flower-heart still on an empty little wooden “stove,” to another, but that will be weak."

keep them off the damp, sandy soil. Having now seen all, and time flying, In the afternoon we had quite a gather: we regained the highroad that skirted the ing of visitors on the terrace. And as all fields. Here, while the steam-tram came were bound for “the wood” like ourselves, in sight and farewells with friendly gossip we walked there together, a large party, were interchanged between my compan. The Haarlem Wood is one of the chief ions and their neighbor, he bade me a charms of the bright, quaint, old-world hearty good-bye, saying, “Now, I have town, which at moments reminds me of a tried to show you all I could, only do not quiet cathedral city with us. There are write down my atrocious English and pretty open peeps here and there dowo laugh at it.”. Which I hope I have not its sandy, often solitary paths. Some done; the said "atrocious'' English be of the trees are very fine, notably the ing, however, infinitely better than most, dark avenue called the Spaniards' Lane, alas, of our insular French of “Stratford- where the latter camped during the mem atte-Bowe,” his courteous politeness that orable siege, and hanged their prisoners which belongs to no nation, but all his on these trees, whose creaking branches

in the winter winds are still said to bear Going home I noticed more women than the groaning ghosts of the dead burghers.


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