had returned to their people, and, by their lamentations and the description of the treatment they had just received, greatly excited their wrath. One young fellow in particular seemed deeply moved. He spoke not a word, but glared to such good purpose that on the spot he became affected with a permanent squint, and, seizing a big stick, advanced grimly aft. Hardly had he passed the engine-room when he was disarmed, cast down, and had we not rescued him, his life would have been cut short in its early prime. Special measures were then taken to prevent people from either side crossing over; but it was not till some time after that all danger of a general conflagration had disappeared.

and latent enmity between different clans | down, and there she lay venting her pasor tribes obtains to a high degree. It is sion in hysterical screams. The officer not long since they were at open war now arrived on the scene of battle, and a with each other, and the slightest incident discussion took place as to what was to serves to rekindle the old feud. The be done. Meanwhile the other women people we took up at Tangiers were composed of two separate parties, one of which was located on the fore half, and the other on the after half, of the upper deck. The Moorish officer I have before mentioned belonged to the latter, and his tent, always kept in perfect order and cleanliness by his busy little wife, had something of a palatial appearance beside the squalor and dirt of the other tene ments. The people on the fore-hatch were a particularly dirty lot, and their spleen appears to have been excited by the sight of so much prosperity and order. | Especially, it appears, were the women moved to anger; for the ladies of the tent would have nothing to do with them, and they were greatly exasperated by the assumption of such airs, and determined to make it manifest to all the world that they considered themselves equal in every respect to them. So one day, whilst the officer himself was far away leaning over the bows and watching the ship cleaving its way through the blue water, and the innumerable jelly-fish, two or three of the women from the fore half came to the tent on the pretext of a visit, and made themselves obtrusively at home, and presently went so far as to request the loan of certain utensils, such as a teapot, pans, etc., for their own use. On this being refused, they began to be abusive in their lan guage, and then they were pitched out by the mother-in-law and one or two others. The mother-in-law was furious, for one of the women, who had a green veil over her head, had addressed herself to her in particularly dirty and filthy language indeed, the curses and terms of hatred in common use amongst these people are unequalled as examples of refined obscenity. Although the latter had been bundled off to her own part of the ship, she was not satisfied. She fetched out a bludgeon, evidently manufactured in the first instance for the purpose of manslaughter, with a knob on it as big as a good-sized water-melon. With this, as far as we could gather from her incoherent language, she intended to damage that green veil somewhat. To appease her, or to hold her, was impossible; five women sat on her to no purpose, and finally, as a last resource, she was muffled up in mattresses and carpets, and a couple of heavy boxes put over all to keep her

There are amongst the Moslems two great divisions, the Sunnites and the Sheites. The Turks are all Sunnites, the Persians all Sheites. They differ in that the latter regard Ali, the nephew and sonin-law of Mohamed, with greater love than they do Mohamed himself. Ali married Fatima, Mohamed's daughter, and by her had two sons, Hassan and Husein. It is said that Mohamed predicted their death; and indeed one day Ali and his two sons, and a large number of friends and adherents, were massacred. The Sheites declared that Mohamed encompassed their death, and to this day the two sects hate each other even more than they do the Christians. The anniversary of this fatal day is celebrated religiously every year amongst the Sheites. They gather in groups around a certain man, who, seated in their midst on some elevated spot, begins the recital in a monotone of the trag edy. Gradually he warms up, he becomes excited, he throws up his hands, he even sobs with anguish as he proceeds and graphically describes the misfortunes of the ill-fated Ali and his two sons. And his audience, with downcast eyes reverently shaded with their hands, follow with all-absorbing interest his words. Presently they begin to sob, and finally to cry aloud with anguish and beat their heads and breasts and tear their hair. The reciter sways his audience with thronging words of passion, with soft whispers of entreaty, with broken ejaculations of agony. Then suddenly his mood changes. What has passed has been a confession of their sin and a confession of the justice of any punishment that might fall on

These pilgrims do not take long to make the acquaintance of those settled in their immediate vicinity; and thus soon the whole crowd is split up into separate and distinct groups. Each group messes in company, prays in company, reads the Koran in company, smokes in company, and drinks tea in company. These are the principal occupations during the voyage, but most important is the tea-drinking. They are always at it, especially the Persians. They have very good tea, and drink it in small glasses, with lime-juice instead of milk. The Moors flavor their tea with mint. They are most generous in the way of offering to others anything they may themselves be eating; but this is rather a nuisance, for their cooking is not suited to European palates, and one has to be very careful not to offend them in refusing.

them. For the Sheites were originally was a pleasant-spoken man, and could Sunnites and approved of the death of converse intelligently on general subjects. Ali, and it was only later that they became Sheites and seceded from the Sunnites; and by this ceremony they lament over and expiate the sins of their forefathers. And now succeeds earnest prayer with upraised hands to God to receive Ali and his sons into favor and to pardon them in his mercy. Then, when this is finished, narghilehs or hubble-bubbles are handed round, and the whole company enjoy a quiet smoke to calm their excited feelings. In some places knives are made use of, and fearful wounds self-inflicted, and in some cases death has resulted. Last year (1888) the anniversary was on September 10. But with the pilgrims we had this ceremony continually, night and day, until it became a nuisance, and orders were given that after 8 P.M. no more noise should be made. Yet, strange to say, whilst accusing him of this murder and condemning his action, the Sheites do not deny that Mohamed is the true and only prophet of God. With the Sunnites Ali and his sons are of no account.

After

I have said before that all around Mecca there are certain points after passing which the pilgrimage begins in earnest. By sea from the north this is at Arába; We were agreeably surprised to find from the south at Yelúmlum. On reach these pilgrims not half so dirty in their ing these places they put off their ordinary habits as we had been led to expect. clothes, bathe themselves, shave their Even the Persians, who are supposed to heads, and put on snow-white garments, be the worst in this respect, were not so in case of men these consisting of only bad. With a few exceptions and we two towels or bits of calico. The Sheites, carried several hundreds of them-they on arriving opposite Yelúmlum, whilst came on board with clothes clean and in the ship stops for the space of five mingood order. They were always willing to utes, shout out a sort of doxology, which, clear the decks of their belongings, in as each group has its own time and its order to allow of their being washed, own key, is very distressing to those who though this was necessarily attended with have any delicacy of aural perception, and a good deal of trouble and inconvenience are not carried away by the same religious to themselves. They washed their hands fervor which appears at this moment to and faces every time before and after have bereft them of their senses. food, and frequently bathed themselves. this ceremony, and until the pilgrimage is Some that we brought from Tangiers were over, they are not allowed to wear any filthy and lousy; their only garment con- other garment, nor shoes, nor head-coversisted of a sort of sack, with one aperture ing. Sandals they may wear, but with to allow of the passage of the head, and nothing to cover the feet. Whilst at rest two others for the arms. These cloaks they can make use of umbrellas, but were hideous, and had apparently lasted whilst progressing towards Mecca they them for a long time. But they had come must trust to Allah, and not shield themfrom the wilds of the great Sahara, and selves from the sun. Some time ago the. were little better than savages. One old question arose whether it was lawful for gentleman from Senegal could speak them to remain under the awnings of French with the fluency of a Parisian; he the ship which was carrying them towards was the blackest negro I have ever seen, their destination, which it was said the with the figure and muscles of a Hercules, captains would not allow to be removed; and looked a grand sight as he strutted and the religious authorities declared that about the decks in a magnificent robe of in such case of necessity their sin would orange-colored silk and a bright scarlet be pardoned to them on the sacrifice of a fez. He was treated with consideration by the others, and apparently was of consequence in his own country. Withal he

sheep on their landing at Jeddah. (On hearing this, our captain offered to have the awnings removed, but this they begged.

him not to do, as they preferred paying hearted; they pay no more heed to the for the sheep to dying from sunstroke. A prayers, protestations, tears, and curses sheep costs about 7s. 6d. of our money.) of the pilgrims than if the latter were Every little transgression they commit dogs. Woe to the pilgrim who tries to during the pilgrimage must be atoned for by the slaughter of a sheep, and these transgressions are numerous, for if a fly settles on them they must not kill it, and if anybody strikes them they must not swear at him. Thousands upon thousands of sheep are sacrificed in this way every year, and the shepherds of Arabia drive a good business, and pray every year that the sins of their brethren may be increased.

Arrived at Jeddah there ensues a scene which, whilst it defies description, is well worth coming all the way to witness. As soon as the ship comes into the middle harbor, forty or fifty dhows or lateen-sailed native boats come swooping around and attempt to secure passengers. But the quarantine flag is still flying at the masthead, and Turkish men-of-war's boats course round the ship and drive off the dhows with much cursing and swearing. Presently the doctor's boat with its snowwhite sail and Turkish flag above it comes rushing along, and as soon as he arrives alongside and sees the papers pratique is given.

Now is the time for the dhows and the coolies on them. They swarm into the ship like so many demons, never take the trouble to ask anybody any questions, but seize everything they can lay their hands on, and shove it into their boats. The women are tossed overboard like many bundles, no matter whose wives they may be. Coolies are not soft

resist! One man tried to secure his luggage by sitting on it. Three sets of boatmen attacked him. After much struggling, one set walked off with the coverings of his packages, another with the contents, and the third with the pilgrim himself. They mostly secure all their possessions at the custom-house after paying a good deal of "backsheesh."

Jeddah is only forty miles or so from Mecca, and the pilgrims usually start in the evening. Yet the journey is not devoid of danger, for the Bedouins on the way do not hesitate to relieve their coreligionists of their property. An armed guard always accompanies the pilgrims. Nearly everybody in Jeddah goes off. The bazaars, a few days before full of life, now are silent and deserted like the streets of a city of the dead. Many white-clothed and helmeted Europeans are seen about, for during the time of the hadj there are as many as twenty or twenty-five large steamers in the harbor. After going to Mecca for the Great Hadj, such pilgrims as have not come early and visited that city first of all, go off to Medina, a distance of ten days' journey. Many of them die from the heat and the privations to which they are exposed. And woe to the ships that have to carry them back! They are then indeed a sorry and mangylooking crew, and often bring amongst them cases of infectious disease which play great havoc in the ship after a few days.

ure.

HIDDEN TREASURE IN ALLAHABAD.-The stung by hornets which they had disturbed Allahabad papers received by the last mail that it was taken as a sign that it was God's describe a curious search for treasure believed will that the treasure should be reserved for to be buried in the Alford Park in that town. a future generation. In course of time the It seems that some years before the Mutiny barracks were also demolished, and the presthe then prime minister of the king of Delhi ent park laid out. Recently the existence of resigned his appointment and brought his the treasure was brought to the attention of family and worldly possessions to Allahabad, Captain Hamilton, an old resident of Allahawhere he built a large house and an under- bad, who had helped to prepare the site for ground chamber to keep his jewels and treas- the barracks. He obtained as much informaThis latter is said to have included a tion as could be got from the existing relalakh of gold mohurs, of the kind now valued tives, and obtained from the collector permisat twenty-eight rupees each. Shortly before sion to dig and a police escort. On May 22 the Mutiny he died, and, during the disturb about sixty coolies were set to work, and they ance, his family fled, covering up the chamber soon came upon some masonry; but unfortuas best they could. When order was restored nately a young cobra was unearthed just then, a line of barracks was constructed by order of and the men refused to work any more, be Lord Canning on the site of the village in lieving that the treasure was guarded by which the ex-premier's house was built, and cobras, and that it was an act of sacrilege to the existence of the underground chamber was dig for it. The excavations, however, were forgotten by all except some relatives who, ongoing on when the mail left. trying to reach it on one occasion, were so

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