The road now passes between "woody banks running through an undulating country but half reclaimed on the r., while on the 1. the slopes stretch up to the breezy headlands, beyond which there is nothing but sea and cloud from this to Europe." Petty Harbor is 4 M. S. W. of Cape Spear and 10 M. from St. John's, and is a village of 900 inhabitants, with a refinery of cod-liver oil and long lines of evergreen fish-flakes. Off this point H. B. M. frigate Tweed was wrecked in 1814, and 60 men were drowned. The houses of Petty Harbor are situated in a narrow glen at the foot of frowning and barren ridges. The harbor at the foot of this ravine is small and insecure. The dark hills to the W. attain a height of 700 ft. along the unbroken shore which leads S. to Bay Bulls; and at about 4 M. from Petty Harbor is the * Spout, a deep cavern in the seaward cliffs, in whose top is a hole, through which, at high tide and in a heavy sea, the water shoots up every half-minute in a roaring fountain which is seen 3 M. off at sea. The road now approaches Ionclay Hill (810 ft. high), the chief elevation on this coast, and reaches Bay Bulls, a village of 700 inhabitants. This is one of the most important of the outports, and affords a refuge to vessels that are unable, on account of storms or ice, to make the harbor of St. John's. There are several farms near the bay, but most of the inhabitants are engaged in the cod-fishery, which is carried on from large open boats. This ancient settlement was exposed to great vicissitudes during the conflicts between the French and the English for the possession of Newfoundland, and was totally destroyed by Admiral Richery (French) in 1796. Fine sporting is found in this vicinity, all along shore, and shooting-parties leave St. John's during the season for several days' adventure hereabouts.

In 1696 the French frigates Pelican, Diamant, Count de Toulouse, Vendange, Philippe, and Harcourt met the British man-of-war Sapphire off Cape Spear, and chased it into Bay Bulls. A naval battle of several hours' duration was closed by the complete discomfiture of the British, who set fire to the shattered Sapphire and abandoned her. The French sailors boarded her immediately, but were destroyed by the explosion of the magazine.

Witless Bay is the next village, and has nearly 1,000 inhabitants, with a large and prominent Catholic church. Cod-fishing is carried on to a great extent off this shore, also off Mobile, the next settlement to the S. Beyond the rock-bound hamlets of Toad Cove, La Manche, and Brigus, the road reaches Cape Broyle.

In 1628 Cape Broyle was captured by Admiral de la Rade, with three French warvessels, who also took the fishing-fleet then in the harbor. But Sir George Calvert sent from the capital of Avalon two frigates (one of which carried 24 guns) and several hundred men, on whose approach" the French let slip their cables, and made to sea as fast as they could." Calvert's men retaliated by harrying the French stations at Trepassey, where they captured six ships of Bayonne and St. Jean de Luz.

Cape Broyle is a prosperous fishing-settlement on Broyle Harbor, near the mountainous headland of Cape Broyle (552 ft. high). There is good salmon-fishing on the river which runs S. E. to the harbor from the foot of Hell Hill.

Ferryland is 2 M. beyond the Caplin-Cove settlement, and is the capital of the district of Ferryland. It has about 700 inhabitants, and is well located on level ground near the head of the harbor. In the immediate vicinity are several prosperous farms, and picturesque scenery surrounds the harbor on all sides. To the S. E. is Ferryland Head, on which is a fixed white light, 200 ft. above the sea, and visible for 16 M. Off this point are the slender spires of rock called the Hare's Ears, projecting from the sea to the height of 50 ft.

In 1614 (1622) King James I. granted the great peninsula between Trinity and Placentia Bays to Sir George Calvert, then Secretary of State. The grantee named his new domain Avalon, in honor of the district where Christian tradition claims that the Gospel was first preached in Britain (the present Glastonbury). It was designed to found here a Christian colony, with the broadest principles of toleration and charity. Calvert sent out a considerable company of settlers, under the government of Capt. Wynne, and a colony was planted at Ferryland. The reports sent back to England concerning the soil and productions of the new country were so favorable that Sir George Calvert and his family soon joined the colonists. Under his administration an equitable government was established, fortifications were erected, and other improvements instituted. Lord Baltimore had but little pleasure of his settlement in Avalon. He found that he had been greatly deceived about the climate and the nature of the soil. The Puritans also began to harass him; and Erasmus Stourton, one of their ministers, not only preached dissent under his eyes at Ferryland, but went to England and reported to the Privy Council that Baltimore's priests said mass and had "all the other ceremonies of the Church of Rome, in the ample manner as 't is used in Spain." Finally, after trials by storm and by schismatics, Lord Baltimore died (in 1632), leaving to his son Cecil, 2d Lord Baltimore, the honor of founding Maryland, on the grant already secured from the king. In that more favored southern clime afterwards arose the great city which commemorates and honors the name of BALTIMORE.

In 1637 Sir David Kirke was appointed Count Palatine of Newfoundland, and established himself at Ferryland. He hoisted the royal standard on the forts, and maintained a strong (and sometimes harsh) rule over the island. At the outbreak of the English Revolution (1642), Kirke's brothers joined King Charles's forces and fought bravely through the war, while Sir David strengthened his Newfoundland forts and established a powerful and well-armed fleet. He offered the King a safe asylum in his domain; and the fiery Prince Rupert, with the royal Channel fleet, was sailing to Newfoundland to join Kirke's forces, when he was headed off by the fleet of the Commonwealth, under Sir George Ayscue. After the fall of the Stuarts, Sir David was carried to England in a vessel of the Republic (in 1651), to be tried on various charges; but he bribed Cromwell's son in-law, and was released, returning to Ferryland, where he died in 1656, after having governed the island for over 20 years. a later day this town became a port of some importance, and was the scene of repeated naval attacks during the French wars. In 1673 it was taken and plundered by 4 Dutch frigates.

At

In 1694 Ferryland was attacked by 2 large French frigates, carrying 90 guns, which opened a furious cannonade on the town. But the William and Mary, 16, was lying in the harbor, with 9 merchant-ships, and their crews built batteries at the harbor-mouth, whence, with the guns of the privateer, they inflicted such damage on the enemy that they withdrew, after a 5 hours' cannonade, having lost about 90 men. In 1762 the powerful French fleet of Admiral de Ternay was driven off by a battery on Bois Island.

Aquafort lies S. W. of Ferryland, and is a small hamlet situated on a long, deep, and narrow harbor embosomed in lofty hills. The next settlement is Fermeuse, with 600 inhabitants and a Catholic church and convent. It is on the shore of Admiral's Cove, in the deep and secure harbor of Fermeuse, and the people are engaged in the cod and salmon fisheries. Renewse is an ancient and decadent port 16 M. S. of Ferryland, situated on

an indifferent harbor which lies between Burnt Point and Renewse Head. 3-4 M. inland are the rugged hummocks called the Red Hills, whence the eastern hill range runs 30 M. N. across Avalon to Holyrood.

6-8 M. from Renewse are the tall and shaggy hills called the Butterpots, which command broad views over Avalon, and from Bay Bulls to the W. shore of Trepassey Bay. The Butterpots of Holyrood are also seen from this point; and Prof. Jukes counted 80 lakes in sight from the main peak (which is 955 ft. high).

S. of this point extends a fatal iron-bound coast, on which scores of vessels, veiled in impenetrable fog or swept inward by resistless storms, have been dashed in pieces. A very slight error in reckoning will throw vessels bound S. of Cape Race upon this shore, and then, if the Cape Race and Ferry land lights are wrapped in the dense black fog peculiar to these waters, the chances of disaster are great. The erection of a fog-whistle on the cape has greatly lessened the perils of navigation here. The ocean steamships Anglo-Saxon, Argo, and City of Philadelphia were lost on Cape

Race.

Cape Race is the S. E. point of Newfoundland, and is a rugged headland of black slaty rock thrown up in vertical strata. It is provided with a powerful light, 180 ft. above the sea, and visible for 19 M. The great polar current sweeps in close by the cape and turns around it to the W. N. W., forming, together with the ordinary tides and the bay-currents, a complexity of streams that causes many wrecks.

Icebergs are to be seen off this shore at almost all seasons, and the dense fogs are often illumined by the peculiar white glare which precedes them. Field-ice is also common here during the spring and early summer, but is easily avoided by the warning of the "ice blink." Throughout the summer and autumn the fog broods over this shore almost incessantly, and vessels are navigated by casting the lead and following the soundings which are marked out with such precision on the Admiralty charts. 6 M. E. of Cape Race is the Ballard Bank, which is 18 M. long and 2-12 M. wide, with a depth of water of 15 - 26 fathoms.

Cape Race is distant, by great-circle sailing, from New York, 1,010 M.; Boston, 820; Portland, 779; St. John, N. B., 715; Halifax, 463; Miramichi, 492; Quebec, 836; Cape Clear, 1,713; Galway, 1,721; Liverpool, 1,970.

The Grand Banks of Newfoundland are about 50 M. E. of Cape Race. They extend for 4 degrees N. and S. and 5 degrees E. and W. (at 45° N. latitude) running S. to a point. They consist of vast submerged sandbanks, on which the water is from 30 to 60 fathoms deep, and are strewn with shells. Here are found innumerable codfish, generally occupying the shallower waters over the sandy bottoms, and feeding on the shoals of smaller fish below. They pass out into the deeper waters late in November, but return to the Banks in February, and fatten rapidly. Immense fleets are engaged in the fisheries here, and it is estimated that over 100,000 men are dependent on this industry.

Throughout a great part of the spring, summer, and fall, the Grand Banks are covered by rarely broken fogs, through which falls an almost incessant slow rain. Sometimes these fogs are so dense that objects within 60 ft. are totally invisible, at which times the fishing-vessels at anchor are liable to be run down by the great Atlantic steamers. The dangerous proximity of icebergs (which drift across and ground on the Banks) is indicated by the sudden and intense coldness which they send through even a midsummer day, by the peculiar white glare in the air about them, and by the roaring of the breakers on their sides.

It was on the Grand Banks, not far from Cape Race, that the first battle of the Seven Years' War was fought. June 8, 1755, the British 60-gun frigates Dunkirk

and Defiance were cruising about in a dense fog, when they met the French men-ofwar Alcide and Lys. For five hours the battle continued, and a continual cannonade was kept up between the hostile ships. The French were overmatched, but fought valiantly, inflicting heavy losses on the assailants (the Dunkirk alone lost 90 men). When they finally surrendered, the Lys was found to contain $400,000 in specie and 8 companies of infantry.

The vicinity of Cape Race was for some time the cruising-ground of the U. S. frigate Constitution, in 1812, and in these waters she captured the Adiona, the Adeline, and other vessels.

Near the edge of the Grand Bank (in lat. 41° 41' N., long. 55° 18′ W.) occurred the famous sea-fight between the Constitution and the Guerrière, whose result filled the United States with rejoicing, and impaired the prestige of the British navy. On the afternoon of Aug. 19, 1812, the Constitution sighted the Guerrière, and bore down upon her with double-shotted batteries. The British ship was somewhat inferior in force, but attacked the American with the confidence of victory. The Constitution received several broadsides in silence, but when within half pistol-shot discharged her tremendous batteries, and followed with such a fire of deadly precision that the Guerrière was soon left a dismasted and shattered wreck. The British ship then surrendered, having lost 101 men in the action, while her antagonist lost but 14. The Guerrière had 38 guns, and the Constitution had 44.

Among the American privateers that cruised about the Grand Banks in 1812 - 14, none was more successful than the Mammoth, of Baltimore. She captured the ships Ann and Eliza, Urania, Anisby, Dobson, Sallust, Uniza, Sarah, Sir Home Popham, Champion, Mentor, and many other rich prizes.

"Far off by stormy Labrador

Far off the Banks of Newfoundland,
Where angry seas incessant roar,

And foggy mists their wings expand,
The fishing-schooners, black and low,
For weary months sail to and fro."

55. St. John's to Labrador. — The Northern Coast of Newfoundland.

The mail-steamer Leopard leaves St. John's, N. F., every alternate Monday during the season of navigation, and visits the chief outports on the N. coast (so called). The fares are as follows: St. John's to Old Perlican or Bay Verd, $2,- -steerage, $1.50; to Trinity, $4.40,- steerage, $2; to Bonavista, $5 50,-steerage, $2.80; to Greenspond, $6,- steerage, $3; to Fogo, $6.50; to Twillingate, $7; to Exploits Island, $7.50; to Tilt Cove, Little Bay Island, or Nipper's Harbor, $ 8, - steerage, $4.50; to Battle Harbor, $ 12. At Battle Harbor the Leopard meets the Hercules, the Labrador mail-steamer.

The fare on the Labrador steamer is $2 a day, which includes both passage and meals. The northern boats are powerful and seaworthy, but the fare at their tables is necessarily of the plainest kind. The time which will be required for the Labrador trip is nearly four weeks (from St. John's back to St. John's again). The expense is about $50. The journey should be begun before the middle of July, in order to avail of the short summer in these high latitudes. It would be prudent for gentlemen who desire to make this tour to write early in the season to the agents of the steamship lines, to assure themselves of due connections and to learn other particulars. Mr. J. Taylor Wood is the agent at Halifax for the steamer from that port to St. John's; and Walter Grieve & Co., St. John's, N. F., are the agents for the Northern Coastal Line.

Passing out between the stern and frowning portals of the harbor of St. John's, the steamer soon takes a northerly course, and opens the indentation of Logie Bay on the W. (see page 196). After running by the tail cliffs of Sugar Loaf and Red Head (700 ft. high), Torbay is seen opening to the W., within which is the village of the same name.

About 8 M. beyond Torbay, the white shore of Cape St. Francis is seen on the port bow, and, if the water is rough, the great breakers may be seen whitening over the rocks which are called the Brandies. The course is now laid across the mouth of Conception Bay, which is seen extending to the S. W. for 30 M. 18 M. from Cape St. Francis, and about 40 M. from St. John's, the steamer passes between Bay Verd Head and Split Point, and stops off Bay Verd, a village of about 600 inhabitants, situated on a broad and unsheltered bight of the sea. The fishing-grounds in this vicinity are among the best on the American coast, and attract large fleets of boats and schooners. The attention of the villagers is divided between farming and fishing, the latter industry being by far the most lucrative. Roads lead out from Bay Verd S. to Carbonear and Harbor Grace (see Route 56), and N. W. to the settlements on Trinity Bay. Soon after leaving Bay Verd, the steamer passes Baccalieu Island, a high and ridgy land 3 M. long, and nearly 2 M. from the main. On its N. end is a powerful flashing light, elevated 380 ft. above the sea, and visible for 28 M.

Although Cabot was the first professional discoverer (if the term may be used) to visit and explore the shores of Newfoundland, there is no doubt that these waters had long been the resort of the fishing-fleets of the Normans, Bretons, and Basques. Lescarbot claims that they had fished off these shores "for many centuries," and Cabot applied the name Baccalaos" to the country because "in the seas thereabout he found so great multitudes of certain bigge fishes, much like unto Tunnies (which the inhabitants call Baccalaos), that they sometimes stayed his shippes." Baccalaos is the ancient Basque name for codfish, and its extensive use by the natives in place of their own word Apegé, meaning the same thing, is held as conclusive proof that they had been much in communication with Basque fishermen before the arrival of Cabot. Cabot gave this name to the continent as far as he explored it, but in the map of 1640 it is applied only to the islet which now re

tains it.

On her alternate trips the vessel rounds in about Grates Point, and stops at Old Perlican (see Route 57). Otherwise, it runs across the mouth of Trinity Bay for about 20 M., on a N. W. course, and enters the harbor of Trinity, 115 M. from St. John's. The entrance is bold and imposing, and the harbor is one of the best on the island, affording a land-locked anchorage for the largest fleets. It is divided into two arms by a high rocky peninsula (380 ft. high), on whose S. side are the wharves and houses of the town. Trinity has about 1,500 inhabitants, and is a port of entry and the capital of the district of Trinity. Considerable farming is done in the coves near the head of the harbor. Roads lead out to the S. shore (see Route 57), and also to Salmon Cove, 5 M; English Harbor, 7; Ragged Harbor, 16; and Catalina, 20.

On leaving Trinity Harbor, the course is S. E until Green Bay Head and the Horse Chops are passed, when it turns to the N. E., and runs along within sight of a high and cliffy shore. Beyond the Ragged Isles is seen Green Island, where there is a fixed white light, visible for 15 M., around which (through rough water if the wind is E.) the vessel passes, threading a labyrinth of shoals and rocks, and enters the harbor of Catalina, re