admission, pays a twenty-penny fine to the lord, an ancient annual rent, with suite and service of court; and he may alien or mortgage any part of his estate, when, and to whom, he will, upon paying ten shillings to the lord of the manor. The woods are free. The bread here, as in all High Furness, is the thin oat cake. Tea, with itself, has introduced wheaten bread. The church is dedicated to the Holy Trinity: the minister is a curate, and intitled to small tithes. There is a chapel of ease within the parish, at Seathwaite.

The features of the country change from Alpine scenery into a more soft and gentle aspect, as the eye descends from the north into the plains, and finds Ulverston, the Beneventum of Furness.

If there was ever a druid in Furness, Bardsea or Bardesey has probably been his seat: and though the name is not literally applicable to the site, yet from its vicinity to the water, and the excellent fountain which gushes from the foot of the hill, on which the village stands, it might have received the name of Bardesey, the isle or seat of a druid, or bard,' more especially if any such had ever resided there.

The site of Bardsea is romantic; the aspect good, and well sheltered by rocks and woods from every blast, having an easy descent to the south, on a bold shore and pleasant beach. The hall is an ancient building, seated on a rock, snug and well sheltered, though it is the highest site in Low Furness. The gardens have been made at vast expence on shelving rocks, that rise above each other: the ascent is by steps cut out of the rock. A spacious gravel-walk has been also made after the same manner. Vines planted in crevices, and conducted along the face of the shelving rocks, thrive well. The whole has the appearance of a mansion in the canton of Bern.

Above the gardens, at the summer-house, the lookout is most delightful, and adds one object to that of Birkrigg, the priory of Conishead, the Paradise of Furness. There the genius of the place has been judiciously consulted; and a more distinguished piece

of

of pleasure ground, or one laid out with more elegance. and taste, is perhaps no where to be seen. The house stands on the site of the priory of Conishead, of which an account will be given: the north front is in the Gothic style; this and a piazza supported by clustered Gothic pillars, and three series of ox-eye windows, crowned with a battlement, give to the whole an elegant and respectable appearance. The south front is in a modern taste. The situation is bold: the ground sloping gently from the house, every way judiciously planted with a select variety of shrubs, improves the elevation: the culminated grounds, and winding slopes and trees, in different situations, give perpetual variety to the landscapes on all sides: the rising grounds, clumps, and hanging woods, are in contrast with the plain.

The numerous views from this pleasant seat are delightful; and the approach to it, from Ulverston is enchanting.

After this Descriptive View of Low Furness and its inhabitants we shall enter upon an account of High Furness.

1

CHAP. III.

Descriptive accounts of High Furness, the Lakes of Coniston, Esthwaite, and Windermere; the Villages of Coniston, and Hawkshead; and the Roman Fort at the head of Windermere.

:

FROM Ulverston, by Penny-bridge, lies the road to High Furness, or Furness Fells, the Apennines of Lancashire amongst these are some fertile valleys, which support an excellent breed of cattle; lakes and rivers, abounding with fish and fowl; mountains pregnant with various minerals, to excite the industry of man; and fleecy flocks, that browse on their verdant sides.

High

High Furness is separated from Low Furness by the river Crake, Thurston water, and the manor of Coniston on the north it is separated from Westmorland by Langdale-tarn and Elterwater: it has Windermere on the east, and the river Leven on the south. Furness fells in Doomsday are included under the general name of Hougun. After the Conquest the barons of Kendal claimed part of them, with all the fisheries, and free chace, through all High Furness.

The pass, or entrance, into High Furness, on the south, is at Penny-bridge; on the north, at Fell foot, Skelewith-bridge and Brathay-bridge; on the east, at Newby-bridge, and the passage-boat at Bowness; on the west, at Coniston, at Spark-bridge, Lowick-bridge, or Under Nibthwaite, where Thurston, or Coniston water, changes its name, and forms the river Crake. The country here assumes an unfertile aspect. The woodlands of Kirkby, stripped of their native trees, look bleak and barren.

The road lies along the banks of Coniston lake, five miles in length, through woods that frequently conceal it from the eye, then, opening at once, shew its indented shores, tufted with wood to the water edge. A peninsula far advanced into the lake raises its head, crowned with trees. The west shore is steep rocks for some way; then changes to softer features of rich and fertile fields, intermixed with woods.

Coniston hall appears upon the bank of the lake; it was for many ages the seat of the Flemings, and though now abandoned, and in ruins, it has the air of grandeur and magnificence. The village of Coniston consists of scattered houses; many of them have a most romantic appearance, owing to the ground they stand on being extremely steep.

Some are Snow white, others grey; some stand forth on bold eminences at the head of green inclosures, backed with steep woods; some are pitched on sweet declivities, and seem hanging in the air; others again are on a level with the lake: they are all neatly covered with blue slate, the produce of the mountains, and

beautified

beautified with ornamental yews, hollies, and tall pines or firs. This is a charming scene, when the morning sun tinges the whole with a variety of tints. In the point of beauty and centre of perspective, a white house under a hanging wood, gives life to this picture. Here a range of dark rugged rocks rise abruptly, and deeply contrast the transparent surface of the lake, and the stripe of verdure that skirts their feet.

It will be allowed, that the views on this lake are beautiful and picturesque, yet they please more than surprise. The hills that immediately enclose the lake, are ornamental, but humble. The mountains at the head of the lake are great, noble, and sublime, without any thing that is horrid or terrible. They are bold and steep, without the projecting precipice, the overhanging rock, or pendant cliff. The hanging woods, waving enclosures, and airy sites, are elegant, beautiful and picturesque; and the whole may be seen with ease and pleasure. In a fine morning, there is not a more pleasant rural ride; and then the beauties of the lake are seen to the most advantage. In the afternoon, if the sun shine, much of the effect is lost by the change of light; and those who visit this lake from the north, lose all the charms arising from the view of mountains, which rise in grandeur on the eye, and swell upon the imagination as they are approached

The river of Torver, and Leven water, and Udal, or Yellow beck, which form Thurston or Coniston water, abound with excellent trout: the water of Coniston contains char, trout, pike, &c.

The chapel of Coniston is parochial, within the parish of Ulverston.

The fells of Coniston have produced great quantities of copper ore. During the rage of the civil wars the copper mines in Coniston fells were shut up. The most considerable slate-quarries in the kingdom are also in these fells the slate is carried down by water and land carriage to Penny-bridge, and there shipped off for different parts of the kingdom..

From

From the Waterhead to Hawkshead, is three miles, a good mountainous road.

Hawkshead is a market-town; it was made so by a charter which James I. granted to Adam Sandys, of Graithwaite, esq. The situation of this odd-fashioned town is as healthful as pleasant, being sheltered from the north and north-west winds by the Coniston fells, which hang immediately over it. The soil is dry; the water limpid and light.

The church is seated on the front of an eminence that commands the vale, which is floated with Esthwaite water, which is two miles in length, and half a mile in breadth, intersected by a peninsula from each side, jutting far into the lake, finely elevated, crowned with cultivation, and bordered with fringed trees and coppice wood. The lake is encompassed with a good carriage road, and over its outlet is a narrow stone bridge. On the banks are villages and scattered houses, sweetly situated under woods and hanging grounds, enamelled with delightful verdure and soft vegetation: all which is heightened by the deep shade of the woods, and the strong back-ground of rocky mountains. At the head of a gentle slope, with a just elevation, the handsome modern house, Bellmont, is charmingly situated, and commands a delightful view of the lake, with all its environs.

The church of Hawkshead, formerly a chapel under Dalton, was made parochial by Archbishop Sandys* at the time of his provincial visit in these parts: he further distinguished this place of his nativity by founding a grammar-school for the advancement of learning, which agreeably to his intentions and wise regulations, has proved of general use. The establishment, conveniences, and accommodations for youth, are well calculated to answer completely the wishes of parents, who equally tender the health, morals, and liberal principles, of their children. This school has always

See the Antiquities of Worcester Cathedral, 1723 p. 163.

been