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twenty years before, the Rev. Dr. E. D. Clarke, while explor- V. In progress of time, as men increased upon the earth, ing the ruins of Cana in Galilee, saw several large massy and found themselves less safe in their detached tents, they stone water-pots, answering the description given of the began to live in society, and fortified their simple dwellings ancient vessels of the country (John ii. 6.); not preserved nor by surrounding them with a ditch, and a rude breastwork, exhibited as relics, but lying about, disregarded by the pre- or wall, whence they could hurl stones against their enemies. sent inhabitants as antiquities with whose original use they Hence arose villages, towns, and CITIES, of which Cain is were acquainted. From their appearance, and the number of said to have been the first builder. In the time of Moses, them, it was quite evident that the practice of keeping water the cities of the Canaanites were both numerous and strongly in large stone pots, each holding from eighteen to twenty-fortified. (Num. xiii. 28.) In the time of David, when the seven gallons, was once common in the country. In the later number of the Israelites was greatly increased, their cities times of the Jewish polity, BASKETS formed a necessary article must have proportionably increased; and the vast population of furniture to the Jews; who, when travelling either among which (we have already seen) Palestine maintained in the the Gentiles or the Samaritans, were accustomed to carry time of the Romans is a proof both of the size and number their provisions with them in o, baskets, in order to avoid of their cities. The principal strength of the cities in Palesdefilement by eating with strangers. Large sacks are still, tine consisted in their situation: they were for the most part as they anciently were (John ix. 11. Gen. xliv. 1-3.), em- erected on mountains or other eminences which were diffiployed for carrying provisions and baggage of every descrip- cult of access; and the weakest places were strengthened by fortifications and walls of extraordinary thickness. Bowls, cups, and drinking vessels of gold and silver, it appears from 1 Kings x. 21. were used in the courts of four cubits in breadth, in order that the rays of the sun mạy princes; but the modern Arabs, as the Jewish people an- be kept off; but it is evident that they must have formerly ciently did, keep their water, milk, wine, and other liquors, been wider, from the fact that carriages were driven through in BOTTLES made of skins, which are chiefly of a red colour them, which are now very seldom, if ever, to be seen in the (Exod. xxv. 5.); and their mouths are closed by slips of East. The houses, however, rarely stand together, and wood, that they may contain milk or other liquids. These most of them have spacious gardens annexed to them. bottles, when old, are frequently rent, but are capable of be- not to be supposed that the almost incredible tract of land, ing repaired, by being bound up or pieced in various ways. which Nineveh and Babylon are said to have covered, could Of this description were the wine bottles of the Gibeonites, old | have been filled with houses closely standing together: anand rent, and bound up. (Josh. ix. 4.) As new wine was cient writers, indeed, testify that almost a third part of Babyliable to ferment, and, consequently, would burst the old lon was occupied by fields and gardens. skins, all prudent persons would put it into new skins. To this usage our Lord alludes in Matt. ix. 17. Mark ii. 22. and Luke v. 37, 38. Bottles of skin, it is well known, are still in use in Spain, where they are called Borrachas,s As the Arabs make fires in their tents, which have no chimneys, they must be greatly incommoded by the smoke, which blackens all their utensils and taints their skins. David, when driven from the court of Saul, compares himself to a bottle in the smoke. (Psal. cxix. 83.) He must have felt acutely, when he was driven from the vessels of gold and silver in the palace of Saul, to live like an Arab, and drink out of a smoky leathern bottle. His language is, as if he had said." My present appearance is as different from what it was when I dwelt at court, as the furniture of a palace differs from that of a poor Arab's tent." Apartments were lighted by means of LAMPS, which were fed with olive oil, and were commonly placed upon elevated stands. (Matt. v. 15.) The lamps of Gideon's soldiers (Judg. vii. 16.), and those of the wise and foolish virgins (Matt. xxv. 1-10.), were of a different sort. They were a kind of torches or flambeaux made of iron or earthenware, wrapped about with old linen, moistened from time to time with oil.6

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In the early ages of the world the MARKETS were held at or near the Gates of the Cities (which, we have already seen, were the seats of justice), generally within the walls, though sometimes without them. Here commodities were exposed to sale, either in the open air or in tents (2 Kings vii. 18. 2 Chron. xviii. 9. Job xxix. 7.): but in the time of Christ, as we learn from Josephus, the markets were enclosed in the same manner as the modern eastern bazars, which are shut at night, and where the traders' shops are disposed in rows or streets; and (in large towns) the dealers in particular commodities are confined to particular streets.

The GATES of the Cities, and the vacant places next adjacent to them, must have been of considerable size; for we read that Ahab king of Israel assembled four hundred false prophets before himself and Jehoshaphat king of Judah, in the Gate of Samaria. (1 Kings xxii. 10.) And besides these prophets, we may readily conclude that each of these monarchs had numerous attendants in waiting. Over or by the side of many gates there were towers, in which watchmen were stationed to observe what was going on at a distance. (2 Sam. xviii. 24. 33.)9

CHAPTER II.

ON THE DRESS OF THE JEWS.9

I. Dress in the early Ages.-II. Tunic.-III. Upper Garment.-Other Articles of Apparel.-IV. Coverings for the Head.Mode of dressing the Hair.-V. Sandals.-VI. Seals or Signets, and Rings.-VII. Some Articles of Female Apparel elucidated. Complexion of the Women.-VIII. Rending of Garments, a Sign of Mourning.-IX. Numerous Changes of Apparel deemed a necessary Part of their Treasure.

wards fine linen, and silk, dyed with purple, scarlet, and crimson, became the usual apparel of the more opulent. (2 Sam. i. 24. Prov. xxxi. 22. Luke xvi. 19.) In the more early ages, garments of various colours were in great esteem: such was Joseph's robe, of which his envious brethren strip

I. In the early ages, the dress of mankind was very simple. Skins of animals furnished the first materials (Gen. iii. 21. Heb. xi. 37.),10 which, as men increased in numbers and civilization, were exchanged for more costly articles, made of wool and flax, of which they manufactured woollen and linen garments (Lev. xiii. 47. Prov. xxxi. 13.); after-ped him, when they resolved to sell him." (Gen. xxxvii. 23.)

Kuinöel, on Matt. xiv. 19.
Ibid. vol. i. p. 176.

1 Travels, vol. ii. p. 445. a Rae Wilson's Travels, vol. i. pp. 175, 176. Harmer's Observations, vol. 1. p. 217. See also vol. ii. pp. 135-138. for various remarks illustrative of the nature of the drinking vessels anciently Calmet's Dictionary, voce

in use among the Jews.

• Jahn et Ackermann, Archæol. Bibl. § 40. Lamps.

• See p. 54. supra. 313-315. Jahn et Ackermann, Archæol. Bibl. § 41. Pareau, Ant. Hebr. pp. 367-371.

Bruning, Antiq. Hebr. pp. 279–281. Calmet, Dissertations, tom. i. pp.

The principal authorities for this chapter are Calmet's Dissertation sur les Habits des Hebreux, Dissert. tom. i. pp. 337-371.; and Pareau, Antiquitas Hebraica, pp. 371-385.

10 Mr. Rae Wilson met with some Arabs, residing near the (so called) village of Jeremiah, who were clothed in sheep and goat skins, open at the neck. Travels in the Holy Land, &c. vol. i. p. 189. 3d edition.

Robes of various colours were likewise appropriated to the virgin daughters of kings (2 Sam. xiii. 18.), who also wore richly embroidered vests. (Psal. xlv. 13, 14.)12 It appears that the Jewish garments were worn pretty long; for it is mentioned as an aggravation of the affront done to David's ambassadors by the king of Ammon, that he cut off their garments in the middle, even to their buttocks. (2 Sam. x. 4.)

The dress of the Jews, in the ordinary ranks of life, was simple and nearly uniform. John the Baptist had his raiment 11 A coat of many colours is as much esteemed in some parts of Pales tine at this day as it was in the time of Jacob, and of Sisera. Buckingham's Travels among the Arab Tribes, p. 31. Emerson's Letters from the Eg ean, vol. ii. p. 31.

12 Jahn et Ackermann, 55 118, 119.

of camels' hair (Matt. iii. 4.),-not of the fine hair of that animal which is wrought into camlets (in imitation of which, though made of wool, is the English camlet), but of the long and shaggy hair of camels, which in the East is manufactured into a coarse stuff like that anciently worn by

monks and anchorets.1

what different.

The outer

incumbrance in their hykes. Instead of the fibula that was used by the Romans, the Arabs join together with thread or a wooden bodkin the two upper corners of this garment; and after having placed them first over one of their shoulders, they then fold the rest of it about their bodies. fold serves them frequently instead of an apron, wherein they It is evident, from the prohibition against changing the carry herbs, leaves, corn, &c., and may illustrate several dresses of the two sexes, that in the time of Moses there was allusions made thereto in Scripture; as gathering the lap full a difference between the garments worn respectively by men of wild gourds (2 Kings iv. 39.), rendering seven-fold, giving and women; but in what that difference consisted it is now good measure into the bosom (Psalm cxxix. 7. Luke vi. 38.), impossible to determine. The fashion, too, of their apparel and shaking the lap." (Neh. v. 13.) It was these juri, does not appear to have continued always the same; for, or upper garments, which the Jewish populace strewed in the before the first subversion of the Jewish monarchy by Nebu-road during Christ's triumphant progress to Jerusalem. chadnezzar, there were some who delighted to wear strange (Matt. xxi. 8.) A person divested of this garment, conforma(that is, foreign) apparel. In every age, however, there bly to the Hebrew idiom, is said to be naked. (2 Sam. vi. 20. were certain garments (as there still are in the East) which John xxi. 7.) By the Mosaic constitution, in Num. xv. were common to both sexes, though their shape was some- 37-40., the Israelites were enjoined to put fringes on the borders of their upper garments that they might remember alt the commandments of the Lord to do them. A similar exhortation is recorded in Deut. vi. 8. compared with Exod. xiii. 16. But, in succeeding ages, these injunctions were abused to superstitious purposes; and among the charges alleged against the Pharisees by Jesus Christ, is that of enlarging their PHYLACTERIES, and the fringes of their garments (Matt. xxiii. 5.), as indicating their pretensions to a more studious and perfect observance of the law. These phylacteries consisted of four strips or scrolls of parchment, or the dressed skin of some clean animal, inscribed with four paragraphs of the law, taken from Exod. xiii. 1-10. and xiii. 11—16. Deut. vi. 4-9. and xi. 13-21. all inclusive,; which the Pharisees, interpreting literally (as do the modern rabbins) Deut. vi. 8. and other similar passages, tied to the fronts of their caps and on their arms, and also inscribed on their doorposts. These phylacteries were regarded as amulets, or, at least, as efficacious in keeping off evil spirits, whence their Greek name, from quarre, to guard or preserve. The practice of inscribing passages of the Koran upon the door-posts of their houses is said to be still continued by the Mohammedans in Judæa and Syria. The xpadov, hem, or border of Christ's garment, out of which a healing power issued to the diseased who touched it (Matt. ix. 20. xiv. 36. Mark vi. 56. Luke viii. 44.), was the fringe which he wore. in obedience to the law.

II. The simplest and most ancient was the TUNIC, or inner garment, which was worn next the body. At first, it seems to have been a large linen cloth, which hung down to the knees, but which was afterwards better adapted to the form of the body, and was sometimes furnished with sleeves. The tunics of the women were larger than those worn by men. Ordinarily they were composed of two breadths of cloth sewed together; hence those which were woven whole, or without seam on the sides or shoulders, were greatly esteemed. Such was the tunic or coat of Jesus Christ mentioned in John xix. 23. A similar tunic was worn by the high-priest. This garment was fastened round the foins, whenever activity was required, by a girdle. (2 Kings iv. 29. John xxi. 7. Acts xii. 8.) The prophets and poorer class of people wore leathern girdles (2 Kings i. 8. Matt. iii. 4.), as is still the case in the East; but the girdles of the opulent, especially those worn by women of quality, were composed of more precious materials, and were more skilfully wrought. (Ezek. xvi. 10. Isa. iii. 24.) The girdles of the inhabitants of the East, Dr. Shaw informs us, are usually of worsted, very artfully woven into a variety of figures, such as the rich girdles of the virtuous virgins may be supposed to have been. (Prov. xxxi. 24.) They are made to fold several times about the body; one end of which being doubled back, and sown along the edges, serves them for a purse, agreeably to the acceptation of wvn in the Scriptures (Matt. x. 9. Mark viii. 6. where it is rendered a purse). The Turks make a further use of these girdles, by fixing therein their knives and poniards whilst the Hojias, i. e. the writers and secretaries, suspend in the same their inkhorns; a custom as old as the prophet Ezekiel, who mentions (ix. 2.) a person clothed in white linen, with an inkhorn upon his loins.3

:

III. Over the tunic was worn a larger vest, or UPPER GARMENT. It was a piece of cloth nearly square, like the hykes or blankets woven by the Barbary women, about six yards long, and five or six feet broad. The two corners, which were thrown over the shoulders, were called the skirts, literally, the wings of the garment. (1 Sam. xv. 11. xxiv. 4, 5. 11. Hag. ii. 12. Zech. viii. 23.) This garment serves the Kabyles or Arabs for a complete dress in the day; and as they sleep in their raiment (as the Israelites did of old, Deut. xxiv. 13.) it likewise serves them for their bed and covering in the night. "It is a loose, but troublesome kind of garment, being frequently disconcerted and falling to the ground, so that the person who wears it is every moment obliged to tuck it up, and fold it anew around his body. This shows the great use of a girdle whenever they are engaged in any active employment, and the force of the Scripture injunction alluding to it, of having our loins girded, in order to set about it. The method of wearing these garments, with the use to which they are at other times put, in serving for coverlids to their beds, leads us to infer that the finer sort of them (such as are worn by the ladies and by persons of distinction) are the peplus of the ancients. Ruth's veil, which held six measures of barley (Ruth iii. 15.), might be of the like fashion, and have served extraordinarily for the same use; as were also the clothes (ra iuara, the upper garments) of the Israelites (Exod. xii. 34.), in which they folded up their kneading-troughs as the Moors, Arabs, and Kabyles do, to this day, things of the like burden and

The Xxxus, chlamys, or scarlet robe with which our Saviour was arrayed in mock majesty (Matt. xxvii. 28. 31.), was a scarlet robe worn by the Roman soldiers. The Ercan was a flowing robe reaching to the feet, and worn by persons of distinction. (Mark xii. 38. xvi. 5. Luke xv. 22. xx. 46. Rev. vi. 11. vii. 9. 13, 14.) The End was a linen upper garment, worn by the Orientals in summer and by night, inStead of the usual arv. (Mark xiv. 51, 52.) It was also used as an envelope for dead bodies. (Matt. xxvii. 59. Mark xv. 46. Luke xxiii. 53.) The Pan, or cloak (2 Tim. iv. 13.), was the same as the penula of the Romans, viz. a travelling cloak with a hood to protect the wearer against the weather. The Zudapov, or handkerchief, corresponded to the KTV of the Greeks, and the sudarium of the Romans, from whom it passed to the Chaldæans and Syrians with greater latitude of signification, and was used to denote any linen cloth. (John xi. 44. xx. 7. Acts xix. 12.) The Tv (semicinctium), or apron, passed also from the Romans : it was made of linen, surrounded half the body (Acts xix. 12.), and corresponded nearly to the ua of the Greeks. Whenever the men journeyed, a staff was a necessary accompaniment. (Gen. xxxii. 10. xxxviii. 18. Matt. x. 10. Mark vi. 8.)

IV. Originally, men had no other COVERING FOR THE HEAD than that which nature itself supplied, the hair. Calmet is of opinion, that the Hebrews never wore any dress or covering on their heads: David, when driven from Jerusalem (he urges), fled with his head covered with his upper garment; and Absalom would not have been suspended among the boughs of an oak by his hair, if he had worn a covering. (2 Sam. xvi. 30. xviii. 9.) But may not these have been

Shaw's Travels, vol. i. pp. 404-406.

s Calinet's Dictionary, voce Phylacteries. Robinson's Greek Lexicon. Voce Puxxxтup. Respecting the phylacteries of the modern Jews, Mr. Allen has collected much curious information. Modern Judaism, pp. 304 -318. In the Bibliotheca Sussexiana there is a description of three Jewish phylacteries, which are preserved among the MSS. in the library of his Royal Highness the Duke of Sussex. Bibl. Sussex. vol. i. part i. pp. xxxvi. Robinson's Lexicon. vocibus. Adam's Roman Antiquities, p. 386. Valpy's Gr. Test. on Luke xix. 20. and Acts xix. 12.

On this subject see Capt. Light's Travels in Egypt, &c. p. 135. and Mr. Morier's Second Journey in Persia, p. 44. Chardin assures us, that the modern Dervises wear garments of coarse camels' hair and also great-xxxix. leathern girdles. Harmer's Obs. vol. ii. p. 487.

a Josephus, Ant. Jud. lib. iii. c. 7. § 4.

• Shaw's Travels, vol. i. pp. 409, 410. 8vo. edit.

particular cases? David went up the Mount of Olives, as a of God of great price. (1 Pet. iii. 3.)3 On the contrary, the mourner and a fugitive; and Absalom, fleeing in battle, men in those times universally wore their hair short, as apmight have lost his cap or bonnet. It is certain, that the pears from all the books, medals, and statues that have been 433 (TS@NIPH), or turban, was common both to men and wo-transmitted to us. This circumstance, which formed a prinmen. (Job xxix. 14. Isa. iii. 23.) cipal distinction in dress between the sexes, happily illustrates the following passage in St. Paul (1 Cor. xi. 14, 15.): Doth not even nature itself teach you, that if a MAN have LONG HAIR it is a SHAME to him. But if a WOMAN have LONG HAIR it is a GLORY to her for her hair is given her for a covering. "The Jewish and Grecian ladies, moreover, never appeared in public without a veil. Hence St. Paul severely censures the Corinthian women for appearing in the church without a veil, and praying to God uncovered, by which they threw off the decency and modesty of the sex, and exposed themselves and their religion to the satire and calumny of the heathens. The whole passage beautifully and clearly exhibits to the reader's ideas the distinguishing customs which then prevailed in the different dress and appearance of the sexes." (Compare 1 Cor. xi. 13—16.);

Long hair was in great esteem among the Jews. The hair of Absalom's head was of such prodigious length, that in his flight, when defeated in battle, as he was riding with great speed under the trees, it caught hold of one of the boughs; in consequence of which he was lifted off his saddle, and his mule running from beneath him, left him suspended in the air, unable to extricate himself. (2 Sam. xviii. 9.) The plucking off the hair was a great disgrace among the Jews; and, therefore, Nehemiah punished in this manner those Jews who had been guilty of irregular marriages, in order to put them to the greater shame. (Neh. xiii. 25.) Baldness was also considered as a disgrace. (2 Sam. xiv. 26. 2 Kings ii. 23. Isa. iii. 24.) On festive occasions, the more opulent perfumed their hair with fragrant unguents. (Psal. xxiii. 5. Eccl. ix. 8. Matt. vi. 17. xxvi. 7.) And it should seem, from Cant. v. 11., that black hair was considered to be the most beautiful.

The Jews wore their beards very long, as we may see from the example of the ambassadors, whom David sent to the king of the Ammonites, and whom that ill-advised king caused to be shaved by way of affront. (2 Sam. x. 4.) And as the shaving of them was accounted a great indignity, so the cutting off half their beards, which made them still more ridiculous, was a great addition to the affront, in a country where beards were held in such great veneration.

V. Their legs were bare, and on the feet they wore SANDALS, or soles made of leather or of wood, and fastened around the feet in various ways, after the oriental fashion. (Gen. xiv. 23. Exod. xii. 11. Isa. v. 27. Mark vi. 9. John ì. 27. Acts xii. 8.) As luxury increased, magnificent sandals constituted, in the East, a part of the dress of both males and females, who could afford such a luxury. (Cant. vii. 1. Ezek. xvi. 10.) The sandals of Judith were so brilliant, that, notwithstanding the general splendour of her bracelets, rings, and necklaces, these principally succeeded in captivating the ferocious Holofernes. (Judith x. 4. xvi. 9.)5 On entering a sacred place it was usual to lay them aside (Exod. iii. 5. Josh. v. 15.), as is the practice among the Mohamme dans in the East to this day. When any one entered a house, it was customary to take off the sandals, and wash the feet. (Gen. xviii. 4. xix. 2.) A similar custom obtains in India at the present time. Among persons of some rank it was the office of servants to take off the sandals of guests, and (after washing their feet) to return them to the owners on their departure. (Matt. iií. 11. Mark v. 7. Luke iii. 16. John deep affliction, went barefoot (2 Sam. xv. 30. xix. 24. Isa. xx. 2-4.); which, under other circumstances, was considered to be ignominious and servile. (Deut. xxv. 9, 10. Isa. xlvii. 2. Jer. ii. 25.)

In the East, especially among the Arabs and Turks, the beard is even now reckoned the greatest ornament of a man, and is not trimmed or shaven, except in cases of extreme grief: the hand is almost constantly employed in smoothing the beard and keeping it in order, and it is often perfumed as if it were sacred. Thus, we read of the fragrant oil, which ran down from Aaron's beard to the skirts of his garment. (Psal. cxxxiii. 2. Exod. xxx. 30.) A shaven beard is reputed to be more unsightly than the loss of a nose; and a man who possesses a reverend beard is, in their opinion, in-xiii. 4, 5. 14-16. 1 Tim. v. 10.) Persons, who were in capable of acting dishonestly. If they wish to affirm any thing with peculiar solemnity, they swear by their beard; and when they express their good wishes for any one, they make use of the ensuing formula-God preserve thy blessed beard! From these instances, which serve to elucidate many other passages of the Bible besides that above quoted, we may readily understand the full extent of the disgrace wantonly inflicted by the Ammonitish king, in cutting off half the beards of David's ambassadors. Niebuhr relates, that if any one cut off his beard, after having recited a futha, or prayer, which is considered in the nature of a vow never to cut it off, he is liable to be severely punished, and also to become the laughing-stock of those who profess his faith. The same traveller has also recorded an instance of a modern Arab prince having treated a Persian envoy in the same manner as Hanun treated David's ambassadors, which brought a powerful army upon him in the year 1765.2 The not trimming of the beard was one of the indications by which the Jews expressed their mourning. (2 Sam. xix. 24.)

"All the Grecian and Roman women, without distinction, wore their hair long. On this they lavished all their art, disposing it in various forms, and embellishing it with divers ornaments. In the ancient medals, statues, and basso-relievos, we behold those plaited tresses which the apostles Peter and Paul condemn, and see those expensive and fantastic decorations which the ladies of those times bestowed upon their head-dress. This pride of braided and plaited tresses, this ostentation of jewels, this vain display of finery, the apostles interdict, as proofs of a light and little mind, and inconsistent with the modesty and decorum of Christian women. St. Paul, in his first Epistle to Timothy, in the passage where he condemns it, shows us in what the pride of female dress then consisted. I will, says he, that women adorn themselves in modest apparel, with shamefacedness and sobriety, not with BROIDERED HAIR, or GOLD, or PEARLS, or COSTLY ARRAY: but (which becometh women professing godliness) with good works. (1 Tim. ii. 9.) St. Peter in like manner ordains, that the adorning of the fair sex should not be so much that outward adorning of PLAITING the hair, and of wearing of GOLD, or PUTTING ON OF APPAREL: but let it be the hidden man of the heart, in that which is not corruptible, even the ornament of a meek and quiet spirit, which is in the sight 1 Rae Wilson's Travels in the Holy Land, &c. vol. i. p. 147. 3d edition. ⚫ Descript de l'Arabie, p. 61.

VI. SEALS OF SIGNETS, and RINGS, were commonly worn by both sexes.

Pliny states that the use of Seals or Signets was rare at the time of the Trojan war; but among the Hebrews they were of much greater antiquity, for we read that Judah left his signet as a pledge with Tamar. (Gen. xxxviii. 25.) The ancient Hebrews wore their seals or signets, either as rings on their fingers, or as bracelets on their arms, a custom which still obtains in the East. Thus the bride in the Canticles (viii. 6.) desires that the spouse would wear her as a seal on his arm. Occasionally, they were worn upon the bosom by means of an ornamental chain or ligature fastened round the neck. To this custom there is an allusion in Prov. vi. 21. The expression to set as a seal upon the heart, as a seal upon the arm (Cant. viii. 6.), is a scriptural expression denoting the cherishing of a true affection; with the exhibition of those constant attentions which bespeak a real attachment. Com

Mr. Emerson's account of the dress of the younger females in the house of the British consul in the Isle of Milo, in the Levant, strikingly illustrates the above-cited passages of St. Peter. He describes their hair as being PLAITED into long triple bands, and then twisted round the head, interlaced with strings of zechins, mahmoudis, and other COLDEN COINS, or left to flow gracefully behind them. They also wore four or five gowns and other GARMENTS, HEAPED ON with less taste than profusion, and all are secured at the waist by a velvet stomacher, richly embroidered, and glit ring with gilded spangles. (Emerson's Letters from the Ægean, vol. ii.

p. 238.)

4 Harwood's Introd. to the New Test. vol. ii. pp. 101-103.

the island of Ceylon in particular, "the shoes of brides are made of velvet, Dr. Good's Sacred Idyls, pp. 147. 172. In the East generally, and in richly ornamented with gold and silver, not unlike a pair in the tower [of London] worn by queen Elizabeth." Callaway's Oriental Observ. p. 47. tions on this subject:-"I never understood the full meaning of our Lord's An intelligent oriental traveller has the following instructive observawords, as recorded in John xiii. 10., until I beheld the better sort of natives return home after performing their customary ablutions. The passage reads thus: 'He that is washed needeth not save to wash his feet, but is clean every whit.' Thus, as they return to their habitations barefoot, they necessarily contract in their progress some portion of dust on their feet; and this is universally the case, however nigh their dwellings may be to mount a low stool, and pour a small vessel of water over their feet, to

the river side.

When therefore they return, the first thing they do is to

cleanse them from the soil they may have contracted in their journey
homewards; if they are of the higher order of society, a servant performs
it for them, and then they are clean every
whit."" Statham's Indian
Recollections, p. 81. London, 1832. 12mo.
Nat. Hist. lib. xxxiii. c. 1.

pare also Hag. ii. 23. Jer. xxxii. 24. The Ring is mentioned in Isa. Tii. 21., and also in the parable of the prodigal, where the father orders a ring for his returning son (Luke xv. 22.), and also by the apostle James. (ii. 2.) The compliment of a royal ring was a token that the person, to whom it was given, was invested with power and honour: thus Pharaoh took off his ring from his hand, and put it on Joseph's. (Gen. xli. 42.) And Ahasuerus plucked off his ring from his finger, and bestowed it on Haman (Esther iii. 10.), and afterwards on Mordecai. (viii. 2.)

VII. Although the garments anciently worn by the Jews were few in number, yet their ornaments were many, especially those worn by the women. The prophet Isaiah, when reproaching the daughters of Sion with their luxury and vanity, gives us a particular account of their female ornaments. (Isa. iii. 16—24.)1 The most remarkable were the following:

1. The NOSE JEWELS (ver. 21.), or, as Bishop Lowth translates them, the jewels of the nostril. They were rings set with jewels, pendent from the nostrils, like ear-rings from the ears, by holes bored to receive them. Ezekiel, enumerating the common ornaments of women of the first rank, distinctly mentions the nose jewel (Ezek. xvi. 12. marg. rendering); and in an elegant Proverb of Solomon (Prov. xi. 22.) there is a manifest allusion to this kind of ornament, which shows that it was used in his time. Nose jewels were one of the love-tokens presented to Rebecca by the servant of Abraham in the name of his master. (Gen. xxiv. 22. where the word translated ear-ring ought to have been rendered nose jewel.)2 However singular this custom may appear to us, modern travellers attest its prevalence in the East among women of all ranks.3

2. The EAR-RING was an ornament worn by the men as well as the women, as appears from Gen. xxxv. 4. and Exod. xxxii. 2.; and by other nations as well as the Jews, as is evident from Num. xxxi. 50. and Judg. viii. 24. It should seem that this ornament had been heretofore used for idolatrous purposes, since Jacob, in the injunction which he gave to his household, commanded them to put away the strange gods that were in their hands, and the ear-rings that were in their ears. (Gen. xxxv. 2. 4.) It appears that the Israelites themselves in subsequent times were not free from this superstition; for Hosea (ií. 13.) represents Jerusalem as having decked herself with ear-rings to Baalim.

3. PERFUME BOXES (in our version of Isa. iii. 20. rendered tablets) were an essential article in the toilet of a Hebrew lady. A principal part of the delicacy of the Asiatic ladies consists in the use of baths, and the richest oils and perfumes: an attention to which is in some degree necessary in those hot countries. Frequent mention is made of the rich ointments of the bride in the Song of Solomon. (iv. 10, 11.) The preparation for Esther's introduction to king Ahasuerus was a course of bathing and perfuming for a whole year: six months with oil of myrrh, and six months with sweet odours. (Esth. ii. 12.) A diseased and loathsome habit of body, which is denounced against the women of Jerusalem

And there shall be, instead of perfume, a putrid ulcer

Isa. iii. 24. Bp. LoWTH's version.

instead of a beautiful skin, softened and made agreeable with all that art could devise, and all that nature, so prodigal in those countries of the richest perfumes, could supply,-must have been a punishment the most severe, and the most mortifying to the delicacy of these haughty daughters of Sion."

4. The TRANSPARENT GARMENTS (in our version of Isa. iii. 23. rendered glasses) were a kind of silken dress, transparent like gauze, worn only by the most delicate women, and by such as dressed themselves more elegantly than became women of good character. This sort of garments was afterwards in use both among the Greeks and Romans.6

1 Schroeder has treated at great length on the various articles of female apparel mentioned in Isa. iii. 16-24. in his Commentarius PhilologicoCriticus de Vestitu Mulierum Hebræaum. Lug. Bat. 1735. 4to. 2 Bp. Lowth on Isaiah, vol. ii. p. 47.

Ibid. vol. ii. p. 48. Harmer's Observations, vol. iv. pp. 316-320. In the East Indies, a small jewel, in form resembling a rose, ornaments one nostril of even the poorest Malabar woman. Callaway's Oriental Observations, p. 48.

It is probable that the ear-rings, or jewels, worn by Jacob's household, had been consecrated to superstitious purposes, and worn, perhaps, as a kind of amulet. It appears that rings, whether on the ears or nose, were first superstitiously worn in honour of false gods, and probably of the sun, whose circular form they night be designed to represent. Maimonides mentions rings and vessels of this kind, with the image of the sun, moon, &c. impressed on them. These superstitious objects were concealed by Jacob in a place known only to himself. Grotius on Gen. XXXV. 4. Calmet's Dictionary, vol. ii. voce Ring. Bp. Lowth's Isaiah, vol. ii. pp. 49, 50. • Ibid. p. 49.

5. Another female ornament was a CHAIN about the neck (Ezek. xvi. 11.), which appears to have been used also by the men, as may be inferred from Prov. i. 9. This was a general ornament in all the eastern countries: thus Pharaoh is said to have put a chain of gold about Joseph's neck (Gen. xli. 42.); and Belshazzar did the same to Daniel (Dan. v. 29.); and it is mentioned with several other things as part of the Midianitish spoil. (Num. xxxi. 50.) Further, the arms or wrists were adorned with bracelets: these are in the catalogue of the female ornaments used by the Jews (Ezek. xvi. 11.), and were part of Rebecca's present. They were also worn by men of any considerable figure, for we read of Judah's bracelets (Gen. xxxviii. 18.), and of those worn by Saul. (2 Sam. i. 10.)

6. We read in Exod. xxxviii. 8. of the women's LOOKING GLASSES, which were not made of what is now called glass, but of polished brass, otherwise these Jewish women could not have contributed them towards the making of the brazen laver, as is there mentioned. In later times, mirrors were made of other polished metal, which at best could only reflect a very obscure and imperfect image. Hence St. Paul, in a very apt and beautiful simile, describes the defective and limited knowledge of the present state by that opaque and dim representation of objects, which those mirrors exhibited. Now we see di songov by means of a mirror, darkly; not through a glass, as in our version of 1 Cor. xiii. 12.; for telescopes, as every one knows, are a very late invention. 7. To the articles of apparel above enumerated may be added FEET RINGS. (Isa. iii. 8. in our version rendered TINKLING ORNAMENTS about the feet.) Most of these articles of female apparel are still in use in the East. The East Indian women, who accompanied the Indo-Anglican army from India to Egypt, wore large rings in their noses, and silver cinctures about their ankles and wrists, their faces being painted above the eyebrows. In Persia and Arabia, also, it is well known that the women paint their faces and wear gold and silver rings about their ankles, which are full of little bells that tinkle as they walk or trip along. Cingalese children often wear rings about their ankles; Malabar and Moor children wear rings, hung about with hollow balls, which tinkle as they run. The licensed prostitutes whom Dr. Richardson saw at Gheneh (a large commercial town of Upper Egypt) were attired in a similar manner.

8. As large black eyes are greatly esteemed in the East, the oriental women have recourse to artificial means, in order to impart a dark and majestic shade to the eyes. Dr. Shaw informs us, that none of the Moorish ladies think themselves completely dressed, until they have tinged their eyelids with al-ka-hol, that is, with stibium, or the powder of lead cre. As this process is performed "by first dipping into this powder a small wooden bodkin of the thickness of a quill, and then drawing it afterwards through the eyelids, over the ball of the eye, we have a lively image of what the prophet Jeremiah (iv. 30.) may be supposed to mean by renting the eyes (not as we render it, with painting, but) with no, lead ore. The sooty colour which in this manner is communicated to the eyes is thought to add a wonderful gracefulness to persons of all complexions. The practice of it, no doubt, is of great antiquity; for, besides the instances already noticed, we find, that when Jezebel is said to have painted her face (2 Kings ix. 30.), the original words are my own, i. e. she adjusted, or set off, her eyes with the powder of lead ore. So likewise Ezek. xxiii. 40, is to be understood. Keren-happuch, i. e. the horn of pouk or lead ore, the name of Job's

The 'EcTpov, or metallic mirror, is mentioned by the author of the

apocryphal book of the Wisdom of Solomon (vii. 26.); who, speaking of Wisdom, says that she is the brightness of the everlasting light and image of his goodness. The author, also, of the book of Ecclesiasticus, ΕΣΟΠΤΡΟΝ Σκαλιδωτον the unspotted MIRROR of the power of God and the exhorting to put no trust in an enemy, says, Though he humble himself and go crouching, yet take good heed and beware of him; and thou shalt be unto him ὡς εκμεμαχης ΕΣΟΠΤΡΟΝ, as if thou hadst wiped a MIRROR, and thou shalt know that his RUST hath not altogether been wiped away. (Ecclus. xii. 11.) The mention of rust in this place manifestly indicates the metallic composition of the mirror; which is frequently mentioned in the ancient classic writers. See particularly Anacreon, Ode xi. 3. and xx. 5, 6. Dr. A. Clarke, on 1 Cor. xiii. 12.

Dr. Clarke's Travels, vol. v. p. 320. 8vo. edit. Morier's Second Journey in Persia, p. 145. Ward's History, &c. of the Hindoos, vol. ii. pp. 329. 333. Callaway's Oriental Observations, pp. 47, 48.

"This is the only place in Egypt where we saw the women of the town decked out in all their finery. They were of all nations and of all complexions, and regularly licensed, as in many parts of Europe, to exercise their profession. Some of them were highly painted, and gorgeously attired with costly necklaces, rings in their noses and in their ears, and bracelets on their wrists and arms. They sat at the doors of the houses, and called on the passengers as they went by, in the same manner as we read in the book of Proverbs." [vii. 6-23] (Richardson's Travels, vol. i. p. 260.) The same custom was observed by Pitts, a century before, at Cairo. See his account of the Mahometans, p. 99.

991

youngest daughter, was relative to this custom or practice." The modern Persian, Egyptian, and Arab women, continue the practice of tinging their eyelashes and eyelids.2

It was a particular injunction of the Mosaic law that the women shall not wear that which pertaineth unto a man, neither shall a man put on a woman's garment. (Deut. xxii. 5.) This precaution was very necessary against the abuses which are the usual consequences of such disguises. For a woman drest in a man's clothes will not be restrained so readily by that modesty which is the peculiar ornament of her sex; and a man drest in a woman's habit may without fear and shame go into companies where, without this disguise, shame and fear would hinder his admittance, and prevent his appearing. In hot countries, like a considerable part of Palestine, travellers inform us, that the greatest difference imaginable subsists between the complexions of the women. Those of any condition seldom go abroad, and are ever accustomed to be shaded from the sun, with the greatest attention. Their skin is, consequently, fair and beautiful. But women in the lower ranks of life, especially in the country, being from the nature of their employments more exposed to the scorching rays of the sun, are, in their complexions, remarkably tawny and swarthy. Under such circumstances, a high value would, of course, be set, by the eastern ladies, upon the fairness of their complexions, as a distinguishing mark of their superior quality, no less than as an enhancement of their beauty. We perceive, therefore, how natural was the bride's self-abasing reflection in Cant. i. 5, 6. respecting her tawny complexion (caused by exposure to servile employments), among the fair daughters of Jerusalem; who, as attendants on a royal marriage (we may suppose), were of the highest rank.3 VIII. To change habits and wash one's clothes were ceremonies used by the Jews, in order to dispose them for some holy action which required particular purity. Jacob, after his return from Mesopotamia, required his household to change their garments, and go with him to sacrifice at Bethel. (Gen. xxxv. 2, 3.) Moses commanded the people to prepare them selves for the reception of the law by purifying and washing their clothes. (Exod. xix. 10.) On the other hand, the RENDING OF One's CLOTHES is an expression frequently used in Scripture, as a token of the highest grief. Reuben, to denote his great sorrow for Joseph, rent his clothes (Gen. xxxvii. 29.); Jacob did the like (ver. 34.); and Ezra, to express the concern and uneasiness of his mind, and the apprehensions he entertained of the divine displeasure, on account of the people's unlawful marriages, is said to rend his garments and his mantle (Ezra ix. 3.); that is, both his inner and upper garment: this was also an expression of indignation and holy zeal; the high-priest rent his clothes, pretending that our Saviour had spoken blasphemy. (Matt. xxvi. 65.) And so did the apostles, when the people intended to pay them divine honours. (Acts xiv. 14.) The garments of mourners among the Jews were chiefly sackcloth and haircloth. The last sort was the usual clothing of the prophets, for they were continual penitents by profession; and therefore Zechariah speaks of the rough garments of the false prophets, which they also wore to deceive. (Zech. xiii. 4.) Jacob was the first we read of that put sackcloth on his loins,

1 Dr. Shaw's Travels, vol. i. p. 413.

Harmer's Observations, vol. iv. p. 334. Shaw's Travels, vol. i. p. 414. Morier's Second Journey, pp. 61. 145. The eyes of the wife of a Greek priest, whom Mr. Rae Wilson saw at Tiberias, were stained with black powder. (Travels in the Holy Land, &c. vol. ii. p. 17.) "The Palmyrene women...... are the finest looking women of all the Arab tribes of Syria.

Like other Orientals of their sex, they dye the tips of the fingers and the palms of their hands red, and wear gold rings in their ears: and the jet-black dye of the hennah for the eyelashes is never forgotten; they imagine, and, perhaps, with truth, that its blackness gives the eye an additional languor and interest." Carne's Letters from the East, p. 592. Fry's Translation of the Song of Solomon, p. 36.

as a token of mourning for Joseph (Gen. xxxvii. 34.), signifying thereby that since he had lost his beloved son he considered himself as reduced to the meanest and lowest condition of life.

IX. A prodigious number of sumptuous and magnificent habits was in ancient times regarded as a necessary and indispensable part of their treasures. Horace, speaking of Lucullus (who had pillaged Asia, and first introduced Asiatic refinements among the Romans), says, that, some persons having waited upon him to request the loan of a hundred suits out of his wardrobe for the Roman stage, he exclaimed-" A hundred suits! how is it possible for me to furnish such a number? However, I will look over them and send you what I have."-After some time, he writes a note, and tells them he had FIVE THOUSAND, to the whole or part of which they were welcome.4

This circumstance of amassing and ostentatiously displaying in wardrobes numerous and superb suits, as indispensable to the idea of wealth, and forming a principal part of the opulence of those times, will elucidate several passages of Scripture. The patriarch Job, speaking of riches in his time, says,-Though they heap up silver as the dust, and prepare raiment as the clay. (Job xxvii. 16.) Joseph gave his brethren changes of raiment, but to Benjamin he gave three hundred pieces of silver, and five changes of raiment. (Gen. xlv. 22.)» Naaman carried for a present to the prophet Elisha ten changes of raiment, that is, according to Calmet, ten tunics and ten upper garments. (2 Kings v. 5.) In allusion to this custom our Lord, when describing the short duration and perishing nature of earthly treasures, represents them as subject to the depredations of moths. Lay not up for yourselves TREASURES on earth, where moth and rust do corrupt. (Matt. vi. 19.) The illustrious apostle of the Gentiles, when appealing to the integrity and fidelity with which he had discharged his sacred office, said,—I have coveted no man's gold, or silver, or APPAREL. (Acts xx. 33.) The apostle James, likewise (just in the same manner as the Greek and Roman writers, when they are particularizing the opulence of those times), specifies gold, silver, and garments, as the constituents of riches:Go to now, ye rich men; weep and howl for your miseries that shall come upon you. Your gold and silver is cankered, and your GARMENTS are moth-eaten. (James v. 1. 3. 2.) The fashion of hoarding up splendid dresses still subsists in Palestine. It appears from Psal. xlv. 8. that the wardrobes of the East were plentifully perfumed with aromatics; and in Cant. iv. 11. the fragrant odour of the bride's garments is compared to the odour of Lebanon.7 With robes thus perfumed Rebecca furnished her son Jacob, when she sent him to obtain by stratagem his father's blessing. And he (Isaac) smelled the smell (or fragrance) of his raiment and blessed him, and said, See! the smell of my son is as the smell of a field which the LORD hath blessed. (Gen. xxvii. 27.) In process of time, this exquisite fragrance was figuratively applied to the moral qualities of the mind; of which we have an example in the Song of Solomon, i. 3.

Like the fragrance of thine own sweet perfumes
Is thy name,-a perfume poured forth.
Horat. Epist. lib. i. ep. 6. ver. 40-44.

Presenting garments is one of the modes of complimenting persons in the East. See several illustrative instances in Burder's Oriental Literature, vol. i. pp. 93, 94.

Harwood's Introd. vol. ii. pp. 247, 248.

Dr. Good's Sacred Idyls, p. 122. In p. 123. he has quoted the following passage from Moschus, in which the same idea occurs with singular exact

ness:

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