From The Spectator. FORESTER'S RAMBLES IN CORSICA AND SARDINIA.*

and subsequent efforts in favor of the national independence, In both islands from the ex ploits and visits of Nelson, who long made the port of Madelena in the dividing straits his head-quarters for some years, and thence he sailed at night-fall, in mid-winter, on that

THE real subject of this handsome and illustrated folio is a journey from Bastia at the northern end of Corsica to Bonifacio at the southern extremity, crossing the central moun-world-wide chase which ended at Trafalgar. tain range of the island to visit Ajaccio, the "Our boatman pointed out to us the chan birthplace of Napoleon. This Corsican ramble nel through which Lord Nelson led his fleet, is followed by a similar excursion through Sar- when at length, after more than two years' dinia, that is, from Madelena on the straits watching, the object of all his hopes and vows which separate Corsica and Sardinia, to Cag- was accomplished by the French fleet putting liari the capital of the latter, although a por- the low isle of Biscie forms the outer point, is to sea. This, the eastern channel, of which tion of this Sardinian journey was made on a the most dangerous of all, from the sunken second visit. The interest which the narrative rocks which lie in the fairway, and its little possesses, in the freshness of the subject and breadth of sea room. Yet Nelson beat through the character of the scenery and people, is it in a gale of wind, in the dusk of the even rather overlaid in various ways. Mr. Fores-ing, escaping these dangers almost miracu ter seems to be possessed with the notion lously. Our sailor pointed out all this with that he is a literary artist, and aims at effect lively interest, for Nelson's name and heroio deeds are still household words among the by personal and minute details-and that seafaring people of La Madelena." too on well-worn topics which only a finished artist should attempt, and which even such an one had better let alone. In like manner

our author tries to embody trivial incidents in dramatic dialogue, without the requisite dramatic power; and he dwells too much upon descriptions of the scenery. Some perhaps may think there is also too much of secondhand matter; as scientific knowledge from modern writers; historical resumés of prehistorical, classical, mediæval, and even modern periods; but these are not overdone, and to many readers will be useful, besides throwing

the interest of association over the scenes described. The most questionable matters in this way are less concerned with literature than logic. Mr. Forester attributes to remote antiquity a greater certainty than can be proved, and ascribes an oriental origin, and a scriptural resemblance, to various customs of the peasantry, without any other foundation than archæological conjecture or at best infer

ence.

Despite these drawbacks the Rambles are interesting, principally for their freshness. In many parts of Corsica, and even in Sardinia, though less frequently, an Englishman is a rara avis, and the neighborhood assembles to look at him. Something of a halo too hangs over him. In Corsica, this arises from the remembrance of our alliance with Paoli

Rambles in the Islands of Corsica and Sardinia. With Notices of their History, Antiquities, and Present Condition. By Thomas Forester, Author of "Norway in 1848-1849," &c. Published by Longmans and Co.

The interior of both islands is pretty much as it was during the middle ages, except that along the leading main road an old-fashioned diligence runs at intervals. The inns and their accomodation are primitive to a degree; sometimes they fail altogether; and the trav eller must submit to be obliged in some private house, where an elderly dame will condeA road-side house seems unknown. scend to receive a stranger and fleece him. Between town and town the traveller must carry his meals with him, and eat them on the way; but this is no hardship. Good water can al ways be had in the mountains to temper the wine for those who so like it. Mules or horses can be hired; but the traveller, who wishes to ramble in these islands, must mainly depend on his pedestrian powers. He may certainly ride along so-called roads on horse or mule-back; but if he wishes really to see and enjoy the country-the forest views, the most striking mountain features, the most wonderful vegetation, he must often journey of travel revives the middle ages, or recals on foot, and rough it in earnest. The mode the exploration of wild countries; it is not without its pleasures and attractions; but only for a man who has strength and powers of endurance sufficient to go through the work. Such was the case with both our trav ellers. Mr. Forester has explored Norway and Southern Africa in his time; his companion was a soldier.

To strangers, journeying in either island,

our author thinks the stories of danger from hair, falling on the shoulders from beneath brigands or blood avengers grossly exagger- the dark berette, gave, with their bushy ated, if not altogether apocryphal. Of late beards, a ferocious aspect; and, above all, the years what civilized people call assassination, resolute but melancholy cast of features which the vendetta, and brigandage, have been put expressed so well their lot of daring-and down in Corsica by the despotic power of Na- despair. poleon the Third. The bands of brigands "Whether the party was bent on a plunhave been vigorously pursued to their fast- dering raid, or returning from some terrible nesses and either destroyed or driven from act of midnight murder, there was nothing to their haunts, many having taken refuge in indicate; but the impression was that they Sardinia. The Vendetta has been stopped by were the men 'to do or die' in whatever endisarming the population; no man, be he terprise they were engaged. The party kept whom he may, is permitted to carry fire-arms. well together, riding in single file with almost Even field-sports, for the present, are put an military precision. Their pace was steady, end to in Corsica; there is no popping at bird, with no appearance of haste, though they beast, or biped. In Sardinia an improvement must probably have been aware that some has also been effected by a better administra- carabineers were stationed in the place hard tion of local justice and a more stringent pur- by, which we had just left. It was a startling suit of brigands. Still a constitutional gov-apparition, these children of the mist' ernment cannot proceed so ruthlessly to its sweeping by us in grim cavalcade over a wild end, even when a good one, as a despotism. Arms are still borne in Sardinia, at least were a few years since: private revenge was still carried on, without being popularly considered murder; and that brigands existed Mr. Forester had occular demonstration: he saw a band, or at least what looked like one.

heath, in the cold grey dawn of a November day, every hand stained with blood, every bosom steeled to vengeance. They took no notice of us, though we passed them closely, not even exchanging salutations with our cavallante. We gazed on them till they were out of sight."

A more real danger, and one which cannot be so easily got rid of, if it can be removed at all, is the mal aria of the plains. At certain seasons of the year, especially in Sardinia, a single night in these pestilential regions will kill a stranger; sometimes an incautious exposure of a few hours or less in the evening is deadly; we imagine when there is some constitutional peculiarity or depression. Like most similar disease-breeding spots the plains are fertile.

"But I can assure my readers that it requires a stout heart, and a strong faith in what one has heard of the redeeming qualities in the outlaws' character, to meet them in the open field without shuddering. It was in the dusk of early morning, that, soon after leaving a village on the borders of the Campidano, where we had passed the night, we suddenly fell in with a party of ten or twelve of these men, who crossed our track making for the hills. They were mounted on small-sized horses, stepping lightly under the great weight the Corsicans and the Sardes are both very According to the account of foreign writers they carried; for the bandits were stalwart men, and heavily accoutred. Their guns were, lazy, probably because there is little on which variously, slung behind them, held upright on industry can exercise itself hopefully, save in the thigh, or carried across the saddle-bows; the few seaports. Communal rights of pas short daggers were stuck in each belt, and a doubtless the same ideas of meum and tuum ture seem to prevail over entire districts, with longer one hung by the side; a large powder- that Gallenga describes as existing in Piedhorn was suspended under the arm. Saddles en pique, with sheepskin housings, and leath-mont, while in older times any outrage to ern pouches attached on both sides, supplying been punished by what in Corsica is shortly public opinion by encroachments, might have the place of knapsack and haversack, completed the equipment. The cabbanu,' a cloak termed a "coup." This is the general picture of coarse brown cloth, hung negligently from of the shepherds.

the shoulders, and underneath appeared the "The Corsican shepherds are a singular tight-fitting pelisse or vest of leather; and the race. We found them leading a nomade life loose white linen drawers, which give the in all parts of the island. They wander, as Sardes a Moorish appearance, were gathered below the knee underneath a long black gaiter tightly buckled.

the season permits, from the highest mountain ranges to the verge of the cultivated lands and vineyards, where the goats do inAlready familiar with the garb and equip- finite mischief; and drive their flocks in the ments of Sarde mountaineer, these details winter to the vast plains of the littoral, and were caught at a glance. The gaze was riv- the warm and sheltered valleys. Home they eted on the features of these desperate men, have none; the side of a rock, a cave, a hut the keen black eyes flashing from their of loose stones, lend them temporary shelter. swarthy countenances, to which a profusion of Chestnuts are their principal food; and their

clothing, sheep-skins, or the black wool of their flocks, spun and woven by the women of the valleys into the coarse cloth of the pelone. Their greatest luxuries are the immense fires, for which the materials are boundless, or to bask in the sun, and tell national tales, and sing their simple canzone. But though a rude they are not a bad race; contented, hospitable, tolerably honest, and, as we found, often intelligent."

There are various incidents in the Rambles, illustrative of national character. The fol

they were a merry party, making the giades of the old forest ring with their laughter and the sound of their young voices in the sweetest of tongues. The girls were in such glee, Filippi pressing the mules to a gallop, that though we enjoyed the fun, we really feared they would be thrown off. Our fears were groundless; riding astride, as is the fashion of the country, but with all propriety, they had a firm seat, and laughed at our apprehen sions.

"With all this exuberance of spirits, there lowing is one of the most pleasing. The were the greatest modesty and simplicity in elements, indeed, for similar incidents exist the demeanor of these poor girls. When everywhere; for everywhere humble poverty they proceeded in a more sober mood we has to gain its bread through risks and diffi- joined in the conversation, asking questions culty; but in this country national reserve about their prospects at Ajaccio, and the and advanced civilization would prevent the schooling they had received. They had no friends at Ajaccio; but the Mother of Mercy' would guide and protect them."

exhibition to a traveller.

"Heat and hunger now combined to make us look out for a rill of water at a convenient

spot for taking our déjeuner, and a torrent crossing the road, with a rude bridge over it, we sat down on the low parapet, and, opening our baskets, the boy Filippi fetched water from the pure stream to cool and temper our wine. Bread, slices of ham, and grapes, were rapidly disappearing, when unexpected visitors appeared on the scene, in the shape of two country girls, travellers to Ajaccio like

ourselves.

The denouement of the little adventure was satisfactory. By pressing the mules and travelling late, our author and his friend reached Ajaccio the same night. The girls of the bundle, directing them to call for it at course could not, but Mr. Forester carried

the hotel.

"We were quite as well served, and the accommodations were as good at Ajaccio as in any provincial city of France. They gave us a delicate white wine made in the neighbor"We had not been so much struck, to hood, an agreeable beverage, which we thought speak the truth, as some travellers seem to resembled Chabldis; and a confiture of cherhave been with the beauty and gracefulness ries preserved in jelly, which was exquisite. of the Corsican women; but these really were I had told the story of our adventure with the two very pretty girls, of the age of fifteen poor girls from Corte to the mistress of the or sixteen, brunettes, bright-eyed, slightly-house, and, on Bridget's appearing the day formed, and with pleasing and expressive after our arrival to claim her wardrobe, she features. They were lightly clad, and one of informed me with great joy, that our good them carried a small bundle. Accosted by hostess had taken her into her service." Filippi, we learnt that they came from Corte, Although the author's literary powers are and were on their way to Ajaccio, in search scarcely equal to produce effective composi of domestic service. Filippi appeared to tion out of trite materials, yet he narrates know some of their family. To desire the agreeably when his matter has any attrac boy to share with them the meal he was tion in itself; and such is the force of truth making at some little distance was only re- and nature that Mr. Forester leaves upon turning Corsican hospitality. The girls were his reader's mind a general impression of the shy at first, and it was only by degrees that country he has travelled through-its wild .we were able to establish a chat with them; freshness, the diffused perfumes of its plains and I was struck with the manner in which and glades, the magnificence of its forest the eldest, taking a handful of new chestnuts trees, and the singular character of the comfrom a bag, offered the contribution to our bination. His military companion was an picnic. Poor girls, chestnuts and the run-amateur artist, who has enriched the pages of ning brooks were probably all they had to his friend with many a wood-cut and several depend upon for refreshment during their plates. There is also a map of the islands, journey. Happily, both were easily to be found.

"Our road lying the same way, and the girls having walked from Vivario while we had been riding, they were offered a ride on the mules, and, after some hesitation, the offer was accepted. With Filippi for their squire, the trio being about the same age,

which would have been more useful on a larger scale. Mr. Forestor, subsequently to these ramblings, was present at the laying down of the electric telegraph cable between Sardinia and Algiers, and gives an interesting account of the exploit, as well as some characteristic information respecting the telegraphic con pany, and the execution of the line.

CHAPTER THE EIGHTH.

"PIERRE went on pretending to read, but in reality listening with acute tension of ear to every little sound. His perceptions became so sensitive in this respect that he was unable to measure time, every moment had seemed so full of noises, from the beating of his heart up to the roll of the heavy carts in the distance. He wondered whether Virginie would have been able to reach the place of rendezvous, and yet he was unable to compute the passage of minutes. His mother slept soundly that was well. By this time Virginie must have met the 'faithful cousin : if, indeed, Morin had not made his appear

ance.

"At length he felt as if he could no longer sit still, awaiting the issue, but must run out and see what course events had taken. In vain his mother, half-rousing herself, called after him to ask whither he was going; he was already out of hearing before she had ended her sentence, and he ran on until stopped by the sight of Mademoiselle Cannes walking along at so swift a pace that it was almost a run; while at her side, resolutely keeping by her, Morin was striding abreast. Pierre had just turned the corner of the street when he came upon them. Virginie would have passed him without recognising him, she was in such passionate agitation, but for Morin's gesture, by which he would fain have kept Pierre from interrupting them. Then, when Virginie saw the lad, she caught at his arm, and thanked God, as if in that boy of twelve or fourteen she held a protector. Pierre felt her tremble from head to foot, and was afraid lest she would fall, there where she stood, in the hard, rough street. "Begone, Pierre !' said Morin. "I cannot,' replied Pierre, who indeed was held firmly by Virginie. Besides, I won't,' he added. Who has been frightening Mademoiseile in this way?' asked he, very much inclined to brave his cousin at all hazards.

if she heard a word of what they were saying. She leant upon him more and more heavily.

"Will Mademoiselle condescend to take my arm ?' said Morin, with sulky, and yet humble, uncouthness. I dare say he would have given world if he might have had that little hand within his arm; but, though she still kept silence, she shuddered up away from him, as you shrink from touching a toad. He had said something to her during that walk, you may be sure, which had made her loathe him. He marked and understood the gesture. He held himself aloof while Pierre gave her all the assistance he could in their slow progress homewards. But Morin accompanied her all the same. He had played too desperate a game to be baulked. now. He had given information against the ci-devant Marquis de Créquy, as a returned emigré, to be met with at such a time, in such a place. Morin had hoped that all sign of the arrest would have been cleared away before Virginie reached the spot-so swiftly were terrible deeds done in those days. But Clément defended himself desperately: Virginie was punctual to a second; and, though the wounded man was borne off to the Abbaye amid a crowd of the unsympathising jeerers who mingled with the armed officials of the Directory, Morin feared lest Virginie had recognised him; and he would have preferred that she should have thought that the faithful cousin was faithless, than that she should have seen him in bloody danger on her account. I suppose he thought that, if Virginie never saw or heard more of him her imagination would not dwell on his simple disappearance, as it would do if she knew what he was suffering for her sake.

"At any rate, Pierre saw that his cousin was deeply mortified by the whole tenor of his behavior during their walk home. When they arrived at Madame Babette's, Virginie fell fainting on the floor; her strength had but just sufficed for this exertion of reaching "Mademoiselle is not accustomed to walk the shelter of the house. Her first sign of in the streets alone,' said Morin, sulkily. restoring consciousness consisted in avoidance 'She came upon a crowd attracted by the of Morin. He had been most assiduous in arrest of an aristocrat, and their cries alarmed his efforts to bring her round; quite tender her. I offered to take charge of her home. in his way, Pierre said; and this marked, inMademoiselle should not walk in these streets stinctive repugnance to him evidently gave alone. We are not like the cold-blooded him extreme pain. I suppose Frenchmen people of the Faubourg Saint Germain.' are more demonstrative than we are; for 'Virginie did not speak. Pierre doubted | Pierre declared that he saw his cousin's eyes

fill with tears, as she shrank away from his | Babette, you must help me-you must make touch, if he tried to arrange the shawl they her love me.' He was so fierce here, that had laid under her head like a pillow, or as Pierre said he did not wonder that his mother she shut her eyes when he passed before her. was frightened. Madame Babette was urgent with her to go and lie down on the bed in the inner room; but it was some time before she was strong enough to rise and do this.