ple are prepared. This ceremony of uncovering the shoulders has never been attempted to be imposed upon us. We have made them understand what mark of respect is paid to the king of England by all who enter into his presence, and we pay the like to Otoo. About three in the afternoon reached Vitua's: the chief received me kindly, and lodged me courteously. Being at no great distance from the large house called Nanu, 1 purposed to see it: accordingly the next morning I took leave of Vitua and his wife, and with the priest pursued our journey. After an hour's walk we arrived at a point that forms the north-east extremity of a small but pleasant bay, called Towpo. In the middle of the bay stands a little sand island named Motuta, and in the bottom is built the Nanu, but a few feet from the edge of the sea. On this point are a few houses belonging to Pomere and Edea, and a plantation of fine pumpkins. Under a shed is a pair of large canoes, of a very different and superior construction to any I had seen before: they seem to have been put together with much labour and pains, and appear capable of carrying upon their platform forty or fifty men. Each canoe had upon its stem and stern the figure of a man, half as large as life, rudely cut, and one extremely obscene. These kind of vessels bear the name of Pahee, (the same as is given to ships) whereas a canoe is called Vaa. Between this point and the Nanu, we met with three sacred canoes belonging to Eimeo; one of which carried what the Otaheiteans call the house of god. The canoes were hauled upon the beach under the shade of a large purow tree; upon the top branches of which, wrapped up in a basket

made of cocoa-nut leaves, with a long pole run through it, hung a man that had been destroyed for a sacrifice, and which these canoes were going to convey to a great morai on Eimeo. On asking the persons belonging to the canoes who the man was, and why he was killed, they very quickly answered, he was one of those who assisted in stripping me and my three brethren on the 26th of March, and for which Pomere had killed him. I know not whether it was really so or not, but my guide assured me it was. The double canoe, that contained the house of the supposed god, was quite new, as was the house, and all its appurtenances. The house was upon the left hand canoe, on a kind of forecastle that projects beyond the stem. First there was a thing called the legs of God, not unlike a cradle that is sometimes used by surgeons to rest a broken limb on: the cradle was between three and four feet long: on the top of this was fixed a box four or five feet long, and one foot square: the end towards the stem of the canoe open, and by which the divinity was said to enter: over this was a thatch of palm leaves. The cradle, box, and roof, were about four feet high. On the righthand canoe, upon the fore part of it, was also a kind of cradle, but somewhat different from the former. On this likewise lay a box about five feet long, and one foot square, open at the top and ends. Against this box, on each side, were placed five pieces of board, about a foot and a half high, and eight inches broad, the tops slit to represent a hand and fingers; and these were called the hands of God: a little scratching on some of the boards for ornament: between each hand was an offering of a bunch of green

leaves;

leaves; and in the box lay a stinking hedgehog fish. The other two canoes had each a piece of plank lashed athwart their forecastles, with a few hands of God stuck against them, and one of them a reed about five feet long, with a sprig of very small red feathers at the top, two small pieces of a stick tied across the reed in different places, and round which a piece of cord was twisted. Nothing could be more rude and barbarous than the whole work of this singular exhibition of South-sea superstition and idolatry. I asked, as I was able, a few questions concerning the god to whom this house belonged, and received for answer, that it was Ooro's; and that when Pomere or mannemanne prayed, - Coro came and entered into his house, and was there seen by them. I dropped a word or two signifying they were wrong; but ignorance of the language prevented me from saying much upon so important a subject. Leaving the canoes, a few minutes walk brought us to the Nanu. As Mr. W. Wilson, the chief mate of the Duff, took a particular description of it while here, I need only add, that the roof of the house is going to decay, and thousands of fleas have taken possession of the floor, which is sand covered with coarse grass. It is said that the house is sufficiently large to contain all the inhabitants of the island. Whether it is so or not I cannot pretend to say; but it is the general rendezvous of the chiefs, and their attendants, who meet here upon some occasions.The noise, disorder, and wantonness, that prevails at such times,

among an assemblage of several hundred licentious barbarians, may be better conceived then expressed. Having accomplished my desire, I returned with my conductor (who teok great pains to instruct me in every thing I wished to know) to Vitua's. After taking some refreshment, we took leave of the chief and his wife, and returned to Matavai.

Opare is one of the finest districts in the island, and is the principal residence of Pomere, &c. It is formed (like every other district) into a number of divisions and sub-divisions, of which I can not at present speak. particularly. The constant inhabitants of Opare appear to be very few in proportion to the extent and fertility of the land. The houses, as in every other part of the island, are scattered, being seldom more than five or six together. Bread-fruit trees, cocoa-nuts, plaintains, yellow ap ple trees, &c. are in great plenty, and yield a large superfluity of food. As these grow spontaneously, agriculture is but little practised. A few patches of ground are to be met with, cultivated with yavva, the cloth plant, and a few esculents; while the rest of the country is covered with coarse grass, cottontices, shrubs of various kinds, &c. and which are sometimes set on fire to clear the ground. The roads are the sea beach, and narrow foot. paths inland, seldom wide enough to admit two persons to walk a breast. The whole land is well watered, and with a little industry, capable of being rendered sufficiently fruitful to subsist, I think, many times the number of its present occupiers."

DIVERSIONS

"THE HE amusements and diversions, both of the Hindoos and Mussulmans in this country, are strongly characteristic of that lifeless inactivity which so generally prevails in all hot climates. The game of paucheess, (twenty-five,) which bears some resemblance to chess or drafts, and is played by two natives reclining on their sides, with a small chequered carpet placed between them, is the general entertainment of the idle, when not overpowered with sleep or intoxication.

"Whole days are spent in watching the movements of the adversary's tesseræ, or in planning evolutions of their own; and their habits are completely gratified, if by slightly agitating the mind, and awakening their attention, a consciousness of existence is preserved, and made compatible with corporeal in

action.

"The usual languor and apathy of the nursery and zenana, are some times animated by the song and the dance; the entertainment is purchased from hired performers, who are frequently Persian strollers, and use the poems and music of their own country. A variety of instruments on the principle of the drum and guitar, make a part of the accompaniment; but it is only on seasons of mirth and festivity, that a Hindoo entertainment assumes a spirit of vivacity so far above their usual tone of animation. Story telling is a more frequent amusement; and one in which they are said to excel; but strangers seldom

1804.

attain such proficiency in the language as can entitle them to judge: they are equally incapable to appreciate the merits of the Hindco song, which is simple, melodious, and tender: but as the subject generally turns on the adventures of some favourite prince or warrior, the interest is lost, from not being acquainted with the history to which it alludes.

"Hunting is afavourite occupation among all nations; at first it is pursued from necessity of subduing the ferocious animals, and of procuring food, and is afterwards followed as an amusement. In Hindostan, which abounds in all kinds of game, and where many of the fiercest animals are still unextirpated, the labours of the chace are pursued with the same earnestness and avidity, as in those antient days when they signalised heroes, and deified Hercules. In no occupation are the different races seen more cordially to co-operate, than in such exercises of the field; Europcans, Moguls, and Hindoos are there equally divested of their habitual indolence and natural aversions, and concur with one heart and one mind, in the pursuit and destruction of the common enemy.

"When the nawab of Oude sets out on a hunting party, he is accompanied not only with his court, consisting of Europeans and natives, but escorted with a large detachment of his army. The officers are mounted on elephants or horses, the riders are armed with spears and muskets, and proceed in

G

regular

regular order to the field where the tygers are known to frequent; there, by thinning their ranks and deploying to the right and left, they surround the whole district: the tyger and all the animals enclosed within the circle retreat to wards the centre, where they are gradually followed up by the converging ranks till they arrive within musket shot of the prey; then a general attack commences, and the poor animals, willing to save their lives at any risk, push through the surrounding multitude, or perish in the attempt. In this perilous amusement it sometimes happens that individuals lose their lives; for the tyger, in the paroxysm of rage and despair, tears to pieces whoso ever comes in his way: nor are even the elephants and their riders secure from their resentment; for he has been known to leap into a howdah and tear away the rider. In this act, a very large one was killed by Sujah Dowlah, a prince who was remarkably fond of hunting, and was esteemed the best marksman of the age. Private hunting parties of Europeans and natives, from their inferior number and strength, generally deem it prudent not to surround the tyger completely, but allow him on one side free egress, that he may not by despair be compelled to attack any individual.

"The deer, which are here in vast number and variety, are pursued and taken in nearly the same manner; only they are set upon by the chittar, a species of panther, which is carried by four men in a covered palanquin, and placed near

them.

"In tyger-hunting the peor ryuts feel, perhaps, greater gratification than their superiors; for, in some sequestered spots, the tygers

are a severe annoyance both to the natives and their cattle, who fall annually a sacrifice to their depredations. The natives are, therefore, well pleased to conduct a party of Europeans to the haunts of the tyger, and seem grateful for their aid in destroying these formidable animals. In 1795, as a party of gentlemen were in pursuit of snipes in the vicinity of Dum Dum, they unexpectedly roused a royal tyger, which had been destructive to the neighbourhood. The animal immediately seized on the first person near him, which happened to be a native servant who carried a gun, and killed him upon the spot.

"The gentlemen, though alarmed, did not retire from the place when the accident happened without attempting to rescue the poor man from the jaws of the monster. They discharged their pieces; but as they were all loaded with small shot, they made no sensible imprese, sion upon him.

"Intelligence of this unfortunate affair was immediately dispatched to Calcutta, for the information of some keen sportsmen, who delight in the manly exercise and dangerous amusement of tygerhunting. They were without delay armed and mounted on elephants, and not long after coming to the ground, they found the tyger weltering in gore. An im- . mediate attack began; but instead of retreating, the tyger made a spring and fastened upon.one of the elephants. The driver was not dismayed, and by a severe blow struck with his hook on a tender part of the animal, he forced him to quit his hold. Several shots were even then fired at him; and though most of them took place, yet none had touched a vital part. The animal became furious beyond description,

гап

ran at and charged every thing that came near him, till one of the party, well known for his prowess, intrepidly advanced, and with a hog-spear pinned the monster to the ground*.'

"Hawking is a frequent diversion among the natives of distinction, as it was formerly in Europe. Hares and foxes are killed by the larger hawks, and partridges, quails and other game by the smaller kinds. Besides falconers, fowlers, fishermen, and gangs of gamekeepers for the chace, men of fortune in Hindostan entertain also persons versed in the practice of catching wild animals by allurement, disguise, ensnaring, ambush, fascination, and other stratagems, in which they are extremely successful. Selling wild foxes, jackalls, and other animals for sport to Europeans is a common practice of some of the poorer classes. Almost every kind of game is to be purchased from this class of men, who earn a subsistence by killing them; they are called Sigurce Wallachs, in the native dialect.'

"Europeans are certainly far outdone by the natives in the stratagems employed for ensnaring wild animals. When they are desirous of taking jackalls alive, two men approach their holes, and begin to mimick the cries of the young ones, while they gambol and play about; this yelping noise soon inveigles the male, who advancing first, is entangled in a snare laid for the purpose; on continuing the same kind of noise the female soon follows the male, and is also en trapped by the same apparatus.

"A great variety of fish is supplied by the rivers, lakes, and tanks of

Hindostan, and there is, perhaps, no art or device practised in catching them in Europe that is not in use upon the Ganges in the east, however, the art of fishing is oftener practised as a mean of subsistence by the poor, than a diversion among the idle.-Wild duck and other water fowl are caught in India, by people wading or swimming the lakes, either with an earthen pot over their heads, or the artificial representation of a duck, fashioned so as to put on like a cap: by this contrivance, they get close enough to the geese, widgeon, or teal, to pull them under water by the feet, till they have filled a girdle made of netting, or tied or twisted one of their wings, so as to let them float on the water without hazarding their escape. All this is effected without disturbing the rest of the flocks upon the lake, and with so much ease and success, that they can afford to sell ducks so taken at a penny or three half-pence apiece.

"Hindostan is probably the native country of the peacock and barndoor fowl; for they are here found in great abundance in their wild state, and not only afford excellent sport, but are the most beautiful of the feathered race. Domestication, it would seem, however much it may increase varieties of the different tribes, but seldom adds to their beauty. Accordingly, all the varieties of the pheasant tribe, which are numerous in the upper parts of India, display the most rich and splendid plumage; the spotted, the speckled, the golden, and Gorackpore pheasants are perhaps the most brilliant of the feathered race; the catching of