2. The Environs of St. John.

*Lily Lake is about 1 M. from King Square, and is reached by crossing the Valley and ascending Portland Heights. The road which turns to the r. from the white (Zion) church conducts past several villas and rural estates. From its end a broad path diverges to the r., leading in a few minutes to the lake, a beautiful sheet of water surrounded by high rocky banks. The environs are thickly studded with clumps of arbor-vitæ and evergreens, among which run devious rambles and pathways. No houses or other signs of civilization are seen on the shores, and the citizens wish to preserve this district in its primitive beauty by converting it into a public park. The water is of rare purity, and was used for several years to supply the city, being pumped up by expensive machinery. This is a favorite place for skating early in the season, and at that time presents a scene of great activity and interest. A pleasant pathway leads on one side to the Lily Lake Falls, which are attractive in time of high water.

The Marsh Road is the favorite drive for the citizens of St. John, and presents a busy scene on pleasant Sundays and during the season of sleighing. It is broad, firm, and level, and follows the (supposed) ancient bed of the St. John River. At 13 M. from the city the Rural Cemetery is reached (only lot-owners are admitted on Sunday). This is a pleasant ground occupying about 12 acres along a cluster of high, rocky knolls, and its roads curve gracefully through an almost unbroken forest of old (but small) evergreen trees. The chief point of interest is along Ocean Avenue, where beneath uniform monuments are buried a large number of sailors. 1 M. beyond the Cemetery the Marsh Road passes the ThreeMile House and Moosepath Park, a half-mile course which is much used for horse-racing, especially during the month of August. 3-4 M. farther on (with the Intercolonial Railway always near at hand) the road reaches the Torryburn House, near the usual course for boat-racing on the broad Kennebecasis Bay. The course of this estuary is now followed for 2 M., with the high cliff called the Minister's Face on the farther shore. Passing several country-seats, the tourist arrives at Rothesay, prettily situated on the Kennebecasis. This village is a favorite place of summer residence for families from the city, and has numerous villas and picnic grounds. The facilities for boating and bathing are good. Near the railway station is Rothesay Hall, a summer hotel, accommodating 30-40 guests ($8-10 a week). There are pleasant views from this point, including the broad and lake-like Kennebecasis for many miles, the palisades of the Minister's Face, and the hamlet of Moss Glen.

Loch Lomond is about 11 M. N. E. of St. John, and is a favorite resort for its citizens. Many people go out to the lake on Saturday and remain there until Monday morning. The road crosses the Marsh Bridge and passes near the Silver Falls, a pretty cascade on Little River (whence the

city draws its water supply). There are two small hotels near Loch Jomond, of which Bunker's is at the lower end and Dalzell's is 3-4 M. beyond, or near the head of the First Lake. These waters are much resorted to by trout-fishers, and the white trout that are found near Dalzell's Lake House are considered a delicacy. Boats and tackle are furnished at the hotels; and there is good shooting in the vicinity. The shores consist, for the most part, of low rolling hills, covered with forests. The First Lake is 4 x M. in area, and is connected by a short stream with the Second Lake, which is nearly 2 M. long, and very narrow. The Third Lake is smaller than either of the others.

"An elevated ridge of hard-wood land, over which the road passes near the narrowest part, afforded me from its summit a view of the lower lake, which would not suffer in comparison with many either of our English or our Scottish lakes. Its surface was calm and still; beyond it rose a wooded ridge of rounded hills, purpled by the broad-leaved trees which covered them, and terminated at the foot of the lake by a lofty, so-called Lion's Back, lower considerably than Arthur's Seat, yet still a miniature Ben Lomond."-PROF. JOHNSTON.

Ben Lomond, Jones, Taylor's, and other so-called lakes (being large forest-ponds) are situated in this neighborhood, and afford better fishing facilities than the muchvisited waters of Loch Lomond. Both white and speckled trout are caught in great numbers from rafts or floats on these ponds; and Bunker's or Dalzell's affords a favorable headquarters for the sportsman, where also more particular information may be obtained.

The Penitentiary is a granite building 120 ft. long, situated in an inwalled tract of 18 acres, on the farther side of Courtenay Bay. The Poor House is a spacious brick building in the same neighborhood. The road that passes these institutions is prolonged as far as Mispeck, traversing a diversified country, and at times affording pretty views of the Bay of Fundy. Mispeck is a small marine hamlet, 10 M. from St. John.

4 M. N. of the city is the estate of the Highland Park Company, an association of citizens who have united for the purpose of securing rural homes in a beautiful and picturesque region. There are three lakes on the tract (which includes 500 acres), the chief of which is Howe's Lake, a small but pretty forest-pond.

The Suspension Bridge is about 11⁄2 M. from King Square, and most of the distance may be traversed by horse-cars, passing through the town of Portland and under Fort Howe Hill (whence a good view of the city is afforded). The bridge crosses the rocky gorge into which the wide waters of the St. John River are compressed, at a height of nearly 100 ft. above low water. The rush of the upward tide, and the falls which become visible at low tide, fill the stream with seething eddies and whirls and render navigation impossible. At a certain stage of the flood-tide, and for a few minutes only, this gorge may be passed by vessels and rafts.

The St. John River is over 450 M. long, and, with its many tributaries, drains a vast extent of country. Yet, at this point, where its waters are emptied into the harbor, the outlet of the river is narrowed to a channel which is in places but 450 ft. wide, with cliffs of limestone 100 ft. high hemming it in on either side. The stream rushes through this narrow pass with great impetuosity, and its course is further disturbed by several rocky islets. The tides in the harbor rise to a height of 22-26

ft., and rush up the river with such force as to overflow the falls and produce level water at flood-tide. The bridge was built in 1852 by an American engineer, and cost $80,000. It is 640 ft. long and contains 570 M. of wire, supported on 4 slender but solid towers. One-horse carriages pay 13c. toll; 2-horse carriages, 20c.

Over the head of the bridge, on the Carleton shore, is the Provincial Lunatic Asylum, an extensive brick building with long wings, situated in pleasant grounds. Its elevated situation renders it a prominent object in approaching the city from almost any direction. The building was erected in 1848, and accommodates 200 patients. From this vicinity, or from the bridge, are seen the busy manufacturing villages about Indiantown and Point Pleasant, most of which are engaged in the lumber business.

On the summit of the highest hill in Carleton is a venerable and picturesque stone tower, which gives an antique and feudal air to the landscape. It is known as the Martello Tower, and was built for a harbordefence at the time when this peculiar kind of fortification was favored by the British War Office. Many of these works may be seen along the shores of the British Isles, but they are now used (if used at all) only as coast-guard stations. The tower in Carleton is under the charge of a subofficer, and near by are seen the remains of a hill-battery, with a few old guns still in position. The view from this point is broad and beautiful, including St. John, with the Victoria Hotel and the Cathedral most prominent, Portland and the Fort Howe Hill, the wharves of Carleton and its pretty churches, the harbor and shipping, the broad Bay of Fundy, extending to the horizon, and in the S. the blue shores of Nova Scotia (the North Mt.), with the deep gap at the entrance to the Annapolis Basin, called the Digby Gut.

The streets of Carleton are as yet in a transition state, and do not invite a long sojourn. On the hill near the Martello Tower is the tall and graceful Church of the Assumption, with pleasant grounds, in which is the fine building of the presbytery. Below this point is the Convent of St. Vincent, S. of which is seen the spire of St. Jude's Episcopal Church.

The Fern Ledges are about 1 M. from Carleton, on the shore, and are much visited by geologists. They consist of an erratic fragment of the Old Red Sandstone epoch, and are covered with sea-weed and limpets. On clearing away the weeds and breaking the rock, the most beautiful impressions of ferns and other cryptogamous plants are found.

The Mahogany1 Road affords a fine drive along the Bay shore, with a succession of broad marine views. It is gained by crossing the Suspension Bridge and passing the Insane Asylum. About 4 M. from the city is the Four-Mile House, a favorite objective point for drives. The road is often followed as far as Spruce Lake, a fine sheet of water 5 M. long, and situated about 7 M. from St. John. Perch are found here in great numbers, but the facilities for fishing are not good. The water supply of the suburb of Carleton is drawn from this lake.

1 Mahogany, a popular adaptation of the Indian word Manawagonish, applied to the neighboring bay.

3. St. John to Eastport and St. Stephen. - Passamaquoddy

Bay.

The commodious vessels of the International Steamship Company leave the Reed's Point Wharf, at St. John, every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at 8 A. M., and reach Eastport (60 M. distant) a little after noon. A connection is made there with the light steamboat Belle Brown, which ascends Passamaquoddy Bay and the St. Croix River to St. Andrews and St. Stephen.

Travellers who wish to gain a thorough idea of the quaintly picturesque scenery of Passamaquoddy Bay would do well to go to St. Stephen by Route 3 and return to St. John by Route 5, or vice versa. Except during very stormy weather the waters of Passamaquoddy Bay are quiet and without much swell.

After leaving St. John, the steamer runs S. W. into the Bay of Fundy, and soon passes Split Rock, and stretches across to Point Lepreau. The peculiarities of the coast, which is always visible (in clear weather) on the N., are spoken of in Route 5, and are thus epitomized by Mr. Warner: "A pretty bay now and then, a rocky cove with scant foliage, a lighthouse, a rude cabin, a level land, monotonous and without noble forests,— this was New Brunswick as we coasted along it under the most favorable circumstances."

After passing the iron-bound islets called the Wolves (where the New England was wrecked in 1872), the steamer runs in towards the West Isles, whose knob-like hills rise boldly from the blue waters. Sometimes she meets, in these outer passages, great fleets of fishing-boats, either drifting over schools of fish, or, with their white and red sails stretched, pursuing their prey. If such a meeting occurs during one of the heavy fogs which so often visit this coast, a wonderfully weird effect is caused by the sudden emergence and disappearance of the boats in the dense white clouds.

Soon after passing the White Horse islet, the steamer enters the Eastern Passage, and runs to the S. W. into Friar's Road. On the r. is Deer Isle, a rugged island, 7 M. long by 3 M. wide, with a poor soil and no good harbors. There are about 1,000 inhabitants on this island, and it is surrounded by an archipelago of isolated rocky peaks. The shores attain an elevation of 300 ft., and from some of the higher hills are gained beautiful panoramic views of the Passamaquoddy Bay, on one side, and the Bay of Fundy, on the other.

Campobello Island lies on the left side of the course, with bold and rocky shores. It is 8 M. long by 3 M. wide, and contains numerous profitable farms. On its N. point is a lighthouse, below which is the entrance to the fine harbor of Welchpool, where there is a pretty marine village. Wilson's Beach is a populous fishing-settlement on the S. shore; and the island contains over 1,000 inhabitants. The surrounding waters are rich in fisheries, especially of herring and haddock, which are followed by the island flotillas; and the hills are said to yield copper, lead, and plaster. The proximity of the lower shores to the American towns

of Lubec ard Eastport affords favorable opportunities for smuggling, which was formerly practised to a considerable extent. The island is frequently visited by summer tourists, on account of the fine marine scenery on its ocean front and for the sport afforded by the deep-sea fishing. Some years ago there was much talk of erecting a first-class hotel on the east shore, but the project now lies in abeyance. The view from the abrupt heights of Brucker's Hill embraces a wide expanse of blue waters, studded with an archipelago of islets. On the W. shore is the singular group of rocks known as the Friar's Face, which has been a favorite target for marine artillery.

The earliest settlement on the Bay was established about 1770, by the Campobello Company, and was located at Harbor de Lute, on Campobello Island. It was named Warrington, but the Welchpool settlement has long since surpassed it. The island was for some time the property of Capt. Owen, of the Royal Navy, to whom the residents paid tenants' dues. At certain stages of the tide, Eastport can only be approached by passing around Campobello, concerning which Mr. Warner indulges in the following pleasantry: "The possession by the British of the island of Campobello is an insufferable menace and impertinence. I write with a full knowledge of what war is. We ought to instantly dislodge the British from Campobello. It entirely shuts up and commands our harbor, -one of our chief Eastern harbors and war stations, where we keep a flag and cannon and some soldiers, and where the customs officers look out for smuggling. There is no way to get into our own harbor, except in favorable circumstances of the tide, without begging the courtesy of a passage through British waters. Why is England permitted to stretch along down our coast in this straggling and inquisitive manner? She might almost as well own Long Island. It was impossible to prevent our cheeks mantling with shame as we thought of this, and saw ourselves, free American citizens, landlocked by alien soil in our own harbor. We ought to have war, if war is necessary to possess Campobello and Deer Islands, or else we ought to give the British Eastport. I am not sure but the latter would be the better course."

Eastport (*Passamaquoddy House, $2.50 a day; Tuttle's Hotel, $2) is an American border-town, on the coast of Maine, and has 3,738 inhabitants and 8 churches. It is built on the slope of a hill at the E. end of Moose Island, in Passamaquoddy Bay, and is engaged in the fisheries and the coasting-trade. Over the village are the ramparts of Fort Sullivan, a garrisoned post of the United States, commanding the harbor with its artillery. Eastport is much visited in summer for the sake of the saltwater fishing and the unique marine scenery in the vicinity, and has several reputable boarding-houses. It is connected with the mainland by a bridge, over which lies the road to the Indian village. Eastport is the most convenient point from which to reach Campobello, Grand Manan (see Route 4), and the adjacent islands. A steam-ferry runs hence in 3 M. to Lubec (Lubec House, Cobscook Hotel), a picturesque marine village towards Quoddy Head, with advantages for summer residents. This pleasant little place is decaying slowly, having lost over 400 inhabitants between 1860 and 1870. The present population is a little over 2,000. Lubec is 1 M. farther E. than Eastport, and is therefore the easternmost town of the United States. The purple cliffs of Grand Manan are seen from Quoddy Head.