with great learning made out in a treatife called Acetaria, concerning dreffing of fallads: a noble work! but I tranfgrefs

And yet, pardon me, good Doctor! I had almost forgot a thing that I would not have done for the world, it is fo remarkable. I think I may be pofitive from this verfe of Juvenal, where he speaks of the Egyptians,

Porrum et cepe nefas violare, et frangere morfu,

that it was facrilege to chop a leek or bite an onion : nay, I believe that it amounts to a demonstration that Pharaoh Necho could have no true lenten porridge, nor any carriers' fauce to his mutton; the true receipt of making which fauce I have from an ancient MS. remaining at the Bull-inn in Bishopfgate-street, which runs thus:

"Take seven spoonfuls of fpring-water, flice two "onions of moderate fize into a large faucer, and put "in as much falt as you can hold at thrice betwixt your forefinger and thumb, if large, and ferve it "up." Probatum eft.

HOBSON, Carrier to the University of Cambridge.

The effigies of that worthy person remains still at that inn; and I dare fay not only Hobfon but oid Birch, and many others of that musical and delightful profeffion, would rather have been labourers at the Pyramids with that regale, than to have reigned

at Memphis and have been debarred of it. I break off abruptly. Believe me an admirer of your worth, and a follower of your methods towards the increase of learning, and more especially your, &c.

SIR,

LETTER IV. TO MR.

I AM now very seriously employed in a work that I

hope may be useful to the publick, which is a poem of The Art of Cookery, in Imitation of Horace's Art of Poetry, infcribed to Dr. Lifter, as hoping it may be in time read as a preliminary to his works; but I have not vanity enough to think it will live fo long. I have in the meantime fert you an Imitation of Horace's invitation of Torquatus to fupper, which is the fifth epiftle of his first book. Perhaps you will find fo many faults in this that you may fave me the trouble of my other proposal; but, however, take it as it is:

If Bellvill can his gen'rous foul confine

To a fmall room, few dithes, and fome wine,
I fhall expect my happiness at nine.
Two bottles of smooth Palm or Anjou white
Shall give a welcome and prepare delight:
Then for the Bourdeaux you may freely ask,
But the Champaigne is to each man his flask.
I tell you with what force I keep the field,
And if you can exceed it speak; I'll yield.
The fnow-white damask enfigns are difplay'd,
And glitt'ring falvers on the fideboard laid.

}

Thus we '11 difperfe all busy thoughts and cares,
The gen'ral's counfels and the ftatefman's fears:
Nor thall Sleep reign in that precedent night
Whofe joyful hours lead on the glorious light
Sacred to British worth in Blenheim's fight.
The bleffings of good fortune feem refus'd
Unless fometimes with gen'rous freedom us'd.
"Tis madness not frugality prepares

A vaft excess of wealth for fquand'ring heirs.
Muft I of neither wine nor mirth partake
Left the cenforious world should call me rake?
Who unacquainted with the gen'rous wine
F'er fpoke bold truths or fram'd a great defign?
That makes us fancy ev'ry face has charms;
That gives us courage, and then finds us arms;
Sees care difburthen'd, and each tongue employ'd,
The poor grown rich, and ev'ry with enjoy'd.

This I'll perform, and promife you thall fee
A cleanliness from affectation free:

No noife, no hurry, when the meat 's fet on,'
Or when the dith is chang'd the fervants gone:
For all things ready, nothing more to fetch;
Whate'er you want is in the mafter's reach,
Then for the company I'll fee it chofe;
Their emblematick fignal is the Rofe.
If you of Freeman's raillery approve,
Of Cotton's laugh, and Winner's tales of love,
And Bellair's charming voice may be allow'd,
What can you hope for better from a crowd!
But I thall not prefcribe. Confult your eafe;
Write back your men and number as you pleafe;
Try your back-ftairs, and let the lobby wait:
A ftratagem in war is no deceit.

I am, Sir, your's, &c.

}

LETTER V. TO MR.

I Here fend you what I promised, A Discourse of Cookery, after the method which Horace has taken in his Art of Poetry, which I have all along kept in my view; for Horace certainly is an author to be imitated in the delivery of precepts for any art or science. He is indeed fevere upon our fort of learning in fome of his Satires; but even there he inftructs, as in the fourth fatire of the fecond book, ver. 13.

Longa quibus facies ovis erit, illa memento,
Ut fucci melioris, et ut magis alba rotundis,
Ponere: namque marem cohibent callofa vitellum.

Chufe eggs oblong; remember they'll be found
Offweeter tafte and whiter than the round.
'The firmnefs of that fhell includes the male.

I am much of his opinion, and could only with that the world was thoroughly informed of two other truths concerning eggs. One is, how incomparably better roasted eggs are than boiled; the other, never to eat any butter with eggs in the shell. You cannot imagine how much more you will have of their flavour, and how much easier they will fit upon your ftomach. The worthy perfon who recommended it to me made many profelytes; and I have the vanity to think that I have not been altogether unsuccessful.

I have in this Poem used a plain, easy, familiar, style, as moft fit for precept: neither have I been too exact

an imitator of Horace, as he himself directs. I have not confulted any of his tranflators; neither Mr. Oldham, whose copiousness runs into paraphrafe, nor Ben Johnfon, who is admirable for his close following of the original; nor yet the Lord Rofcommon, fo excellent for the beauty of his language, and his penetration into the very design and soul of that author. Iconfidered that Iwent upon a newundertaking, andthough I do not value myself upon it so niuch as Lucretius did, yet I dare fay it is more innocent and innoffenfive.

Sometimes when Horace's rules come too thick and fententious I have fo far taken liberty as to pafs over fome of them; for I confider the nature and temper of Cooks, who are not of the most patient difpó fition, as their underfervants too often experience. I wish I might prevail with them to moderate their paffions, which will be the greater conqueft feeing a continual heat is added to their native fire.

Amidft the variety of directions that Horace gives us in his Art of Poetry, which is one of the most accurate pieces that he or any other author has written, there is a fecret connexion in reality, though he doth not exprefs it too plainly, and therefore this Imitation of it has many breaks in it. If fuch as fhall condefcend to read this Poem would at the same time confult Horace'soriginal Latin, or fome of the aforementioned tranflators, they would find at least this benefit, that they would recollect thofe excellent inftructions which he delivers to us in fuch elegant language.

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