intimated, followed by the ruin of his family, from whom the Sultan had extorted not less than six millions of piastres. In consequence of this catastrophe the Doctor had left Ooscat, and entered into the service of the Pasha of Costamboul. Here Mr. Kinneir was detained by the intrigues of his Tatar, who, being paid by the month, had, it seems, determined to throw as many difficulties as possible, in the way of their progress. He had contrived also to seduce Mr. K.'s servant, a native of Pera, the Franks of which place are stigmatized in a note, as being a 'most profligate and unprincipled' race.

On the eve of our departure, the females of the family with whom we had lodged assembled round the door of our apartment, in expectation of a present, the papas or priest having adopted this plan of reimbursing himself for the expense we had occasioned him. We gave each of them a couple of rubas, with which they appeared perfectly satisfied. The Pasha supplied us with excellent horses, which carried us to Tash Kapri in six hours.'

This a place of some importance, containing four thousand inhabitants, who have extensive manufactories of various articles. The next day's journey was through a very fine country, but bearing throughout the marks of bad and oppressive government. The miserable inhabitants of the few scattered cabins complained that the recesses of the mountains could not shelter them from the tyranny and rapacity of their rulers. Passing through scenery of the richest kind, adorned with an infinite variety of fruits and flowers and the surface of the ground broken up in the most picturesque forms, the travellers reached the beautiful and romantic town of Weiwode.

A short time after our arrival we received a visit from one of those mendicants called dervishes, who in expectation of a present, was lavish in his abuse of the French, and praise of the English: he brandished a pipe of an enormous size, and exhibited various gesticulations, until I ordered my servant to give him twenty paras, when indignant at the smallness of the sum, he threw it with wrath upon the floor, and rushing from the apartment, swore that the French were a noble and generous people, but the English a set of infidels, who could not escape damnation. These dervishes are a sort of privileged people, and are treated by all the Turks with great respect and attention.'

During the next stage, they were benighted on the banks of the Kizil Ermak, the ancient Halys, in a wild, but luxuriant country, infested by banditti. Mr. K. and Mr. Chavasse rode forward, in hope of discovering some village in which they might take shelter; but the night closing on them, with a dark and tempestuous sky, they determined to return, and rejoin their baggage. The party rested therefore, or rather halted in the open air, amid a heavy rain. The next day, after

6

crossing the Kizil Ermak, the finest river in Asia Minor, they reached Vizir Kapri, or the Vizir's Bridge, the capital of a rich district.'

We remained several hours standing in the streets of Vizir Kapri, before the Aian or Aga would deign to give us an apartment. -During this time a mob collected round us, for the majority of them had never before seen a European; and I heard one of the Soorajees uttering imprecations against us for keeping his horses so long unladen. He said it was a high farce to see gours lodged in private houses, whilst the faithful were obliged to be contented with the accommodation of a coffee-house. We were at last shewn into a room, but preferred spreading our carpets in an open veranda, where we ran less risk of being annoyed with bugs and other loathsome insects.'

At Konak, Mr. K. had to encounter at once the intrigues of his old Tatar, and the airs of the Zabit. To the latter he behaved with a dignified contempt, which brought him a little to his senses.

Adverting to the badness of his fare in this village, Mr. Kinneir takes occasion to express his conviction that the more moderate the diet, the more fatigue and hardship the frame is capable of sustaining. He states it to be his invariable practice during a journey, to abstain from animal food, wine or spirits.' Mr. Chavasse, he remarks, who at first thought it impossible 'to exist without beef or mutton,'' in a very short time became ' a convert,' to his system. With respect to mere stimuli, as wine and spirits, we are quite disposed to agree with Mr. Kinneir; but in regard to abstinence from animal food, we question the correctness of his conclusions. Where the constitution has been already accustomed to it, its continuance would seem necessary to the full maintenance of muscular strength; and it is not improbable that the melancholy catastrophe which befel Mr. Chavasse, might be partly owing to the debility occasioned by unaccustomed abstinence. It has been quoted as the statement of the physician who attended the lamented Burckhardt in his last illness, that he never met with a case in which the constitution made so little effort to recover itself; and it is we believe, a well known fact, that Mr. B. had accustomed himself while sojourning in hot climates, to the use of vegetable food. Indeed, we have ourselves understood, that even in India, not only are Europeans superior in muscular strength to the abstinent natives, but their powers of endurance are also greater.

At Samsoon, the Amisus of antiquity, one of the most flourishing towns of the ancient Pontus, the travellers reached the Euxine, along the shores of which part of their journey lay. At one of their halting places, they were quartered on a Greek

family. The females, taking them for plundering Turks, set their tongues in instant and incessant motion; but they were speedily and effectually silenced by an intimation that they might expect double pay. The best apartment was dusted out, the carpets and cushions drawn from their repositories, and fruit, flowers, and fish set before the guests. The country through which they were now travelling, seemed principally allotted to the pasture of brood mares. At Unieh, but a slight coruption of Enoe, the house where they were lodged was small, but they procured a sumptuous dinner,' and under the notion, generally too correct, that Europeans drink to excess, their purveyors brought in three large bottles of 'excellent wine and a decanter of brandy.' The despot of the Greeks, who had shewn them all this attention, had the misfortune to be a creditor of the Pasha of Widio, and whenever he ventured to express an humble hope of repayment, his noble debtor'threatened to cut off his head.' With a view to secure protection at the Porte, the luckless Greek obtained from his visiters, a letter of introduction to Mr. Pisani, the Dragoman to the English Embassy at Constantinople.

From this place the party travelled, through the finest and most luxuriant landscapes, to Keresoun, the ancient Cerasus, whence Lucullus first introduced the cherry into Europe. Here they were for the first time absolutely unable, by threats, bribes, or intreaties, to procure horses, and they were compelled to embark in a felucca, which, after a very delightful coasting voyage, landed them at Trebisond. At Platana, a place where they had stopped on the coast, Mr. C. was robbed of his coat and waistcoat, and the Aga declined interference, on the plea, probably a just one, that he had no means of detecting the offenders. Apprehending, however, that further steps might be taken, he followed the travellers to Trebisond, and begged that no complaint might be made to the governor, who would doubtless use it as a pretext for levying a heavy contribution on the inhabitants of Platana. As he seemed much agitated, and as the value of the articles was trifling, they promised forbearance; but in the mean time, the Tatar had related the affair to the Mutesellim, who sent word that he had ordered the head of the master of the Coffee-house to be struck off, and the village to be fined. The Tatar, it appeared, had affirmed that there was a large sum of money in the pockets, though he knew perfectly well that there was nothing more than a few piastres and a pocket compass. Mr. K. wrote to the Mutesellim, requesting that no further notice might be taken of the transaction. This circumstance, though trifling in itself, exhibits a pretty fair specimen of the way in which justice is administered in Turkey. As a further illustration however, it is stated, that

as the Aga requested concealment from apprehension of the governor's rapacity, the latter, on precisely similar grounds, exacted a written promise that no complaint should be made to the Pasha, who would probably have made it a pretext for extorting from his governor ten thousand piastres.

Trebisond is a place of considerable trade, and contains some handsome buildings. At Maturage, fifteen miles from Trebisond, it was necessary to take a guard, and on the following day's journey, Messrs. K. and C. were placed in circumstances of considerable peril. They were on the lofty mountains of Koat Dag, the mist fell thick and fast, and as the night advanced, the cold became increasingly intense. Intending to push forward at a brisker pace, Mr. K. ordered the Greek servant to follow him, and on a peremptory refusal, demanded his pistols. Instead of delivering them up, the Greek threw off his turban and cloak, and dismounting, presented one of the pistols to Mr. K.'s breast, threatening with expressions of the utmost fury, to kill him. Mr. Kinneir was quite unarmed, but Mr. Chavasse would have shot the villain upon the spot, but for Mr. K.'s interference. The Greek ran to his horse, mounted, and galloped on before, still, however, keeping them in sight. The guard was in the rear, and Mahomed Aga looked on with the utmost indifference. At the village where they stopped, the Greek kept out of the way during the night, but in the morning came to make his peace, still reserving the pistols, and when Mr. C. endeavoured to seize them by force, some of the guards interfered to prevent him from effecting his purpose. A contest immediately ensued, in which resolution prevailed over ́numbers, and Mr. K. and his friend secured the object of contention. The guards were sulky,' and muttered threats, firing off their carbines for the purpose of intimidation; but the Greek exhibited signs of penitence, employing the Tatar as his mediator, and at the next halt, procured his pardon, at the request of the master of the Khan and several other respectable persons, but principally, Mr. K. remarks, because his masters had it not in their power to punish him, and would have • been much in want of his services.'

The travellers were now among the mountains of Armenia, and in addition to the bleak and unsheltered exposures of elevated ranges, had to encounter the privations and sufferings arising from want of accommodation. The dwellings in these dreary tracts, are usually underground, the roofs covered with grass, and the goats and sheep grazing on them; the door is the only opening for light and air, and cows, sheep, and dogs are permitted to share the accommodations of the family. Under these circumstances, it will be readily believed that Messrs. K. and C. would prefer the most casual and imperfect

shelter to such miserable abodes. The natives of these exposed ranges, are a short, stout, and active race of men, remarkably dark in their complexions.' Like most mountaineers, they are brave and hardy, patient of cold and fatigue, and their favourite pastime is the chase of the stag. Their dress is picturesque, consisting of a cap or turban, a short jacket, and wide brown woollen trowsers. Their deportment was courteous, and they betrayed no rude curiosity, though they had never before been visited by Europeans. Byaboot, the residence of a chief, stands on lower ground, and from the depth of snow, is, during four months of the year, cut off from all communication with the surrounding villages. No wood can at any time be procured nearer than three days' journey, and the poor are compelled to use as fuel, cow-dung baked in the sun. Byaboot is defended by moveable towers, constructed of logs of wood, musket-proof, and triangular in shape, with raised turrets at the angles. The Aga took a fancy' to Mr. Chavasse's gun, and withheld the horses to secure his point; but on an intimation, that if the party were detained much longer, complaint would be made to the Pasha of Erzeroum, he desisted from his claim, and sent the horses.

The road now lay over the Cop Dag, said to be equal to Ararat in height, and whose dependent ranges and valleys_presented a scene of striking grandeur. After crossing the Euphrates, they entered on the immense plain of Erzeroum, tolerably well cultivated, but bleak and desolate in appearance, from the absence of trees and the lowness of the habitations scattered over it. At Erzeroum they were visited by the Pasha's phy sician, whose appearance and medical qualifications were of no common kind. He was short, hump-backed, and bandy-legged, had an extravagant beard, and long coarse black hair. His dress consisted of a shabby blue coat with an embroidered vest; his pantaloons were of green Angora shawl; his cap was of yellow silk with silver trimmings, and a long orange coloured pelisse covered his coat. This grotesque personage was a Venetian, and had formerly been Sir James Mackintosh's butler. His errand was to make inquiry, on the part of the Pasha, into the adventures of Napoleon.

The natives of the east have always taken great interest in the fortunes of this extraordinary man. His name and exploits had become familiar to them: they looked upon him as the favoured of heaven; and the exaggerated statements of his power were well calculated to make a strong impression on the minds of men naturally' fond of pomp and grandeur. The thinking classes of the Turks and Persians contemplated in him their future protector against the hostile intentions of Russia, and listened at first with doubt and afterwards with consternation to the reports of his defeats and rapid overthrow.'