of progress does not exceed from 20 to 25 miles a-day; though, with the menzil, or post-horses of Turkey, 60 miles a-day may be easily accomplished, by changing at stages varying from 10 to 20 miles from each other. In all probability, many years will elapse before any other mode of travelling is generally practicable in Greece; though excellent carriage-roads have been made in all the Ionian Islands since they came under the British protectorate. Orders and plans, it is true, have been frequently issued by the Greek Government for the formation of roads in various directions, but, in consequence of the scantiness of the population, and the profligate expenditure of the public revenue, little has been hitherto effected; and, as the labourer in Greece gains more by the cultivation of his lands than the wages offered by Government, it would be difficult to induce him to quit his fields and commence road-making. From the peculiarities of the country in this respect, a traveller may always go from one place to another in any direction he may fancy; so that, with the exception of the great lines from town to town, it is almost useless to trace out routes very minutely. Indeed, such a task would be endless, and, from the local changes which are constantly occurring, the only valuable information respecting lodging, &c., in the country villages must be obtained on the spot.

The only Roads practicable for carriages in the whole country are that from the Piræus to Athens, that from Athens to Thebes-passing through Eleusis and a gorge of Mount Citharon, that from Eleusis to Megara, that from Argos to Nauplia, and a few others for a short distance round Athens. A new road is traced out from Argos to Tripolitza, and another from Thebes to Lebadea; but the traveller had better ascertain their actual condition before he ventures on either in a carriage. The road across the Isthmus of Corinth was made by the Austrian Lloyd's Company for the transit of their passengers. Many other roads, it is true, are talked and written of, but they are not as yet even surveyed, and carriages are unknown except at Athens and Nauplia. The old road from Nauplia to Tripolitza is no longer practicable for carriages, having fallen into disrepair. The carriage-road from Athens to the foot of Pentelicus was constructed for the transport of marble from the quarries. The paved causeways in various parts of Greece were the work of the Venetians or Turks.

Horses are found in abundance in all large towns. They should be engaged to go from one town to another, in order to avoid delay and the uncertainty of meeting with them in the villages. They in general perform the journeys easily, and are very sure-footed. The hire of the horses may be regulated at so much per day, or for the journey from one town to another. The first is the best plan to be adopted by those who wish thoroughly to explore the country. The latter is to be preferred for those who are obliged to reach a given place at a certain time.

The price for horse-hire varies according to the demand for them, or their scarcity, from 4 drachmas (2s. 8d.) per day to 5 drachmas (3s. 6d.), which is the usual price in travelling, though more is generally demanded. At Athens, however, the usual price for a horse per day for excursions in the vicinity is 6 drachmas (4s. 4d.). It is in general not necessary to pay more than half-price for the horses on days when the traveller is stationary, as well as for their journey home; for it must be observed that the number of days will be reckoned that they will require to return from the place where they are dismissed to that from whence they were taken. The price for mules is about the same as that for horses. It is an error to suppose that they are more sure-footed in mountainous districts than horses. În crossing a river on a warm day, a traveller should always be on his guard against the

trick that mules have of lying down in the middle of the water, so suddenly, as to give him no time to save himself from being drenched.

The feeding of the horses is provided for by the proprietor, who sends a sufficient number of attendants to take care of them. These men will be found useful, not only as guides, but in procuring lodgings in private houses in the villages where the traveller halts. It is usual to make them some present at the end of their engagement. A written agreement with the proprietors of the horses is unnecessary in general, though it may be perhaps the most prudent course to adopt.

To proceed with comfort on his journey, the traveller should have an English saddle, as the saddles of the country, whether in the Turkish fashion or made in imitation of the English ones, will be found uncomfortable. He should also be provided with a saddle-cloth an inch or two in thickness, in order, if possible, to save the horse's back from being galled. The Greek peasant in general objects to the use of the English saddle, the pressure of which, from the wretched condition of the horses, is almost sure to injure their backs. In order to obviate this difficulty, two large pieces of cloth should be sewn together and stuffed with a quantity of curled hair, wool, or cotton, whichever can be most easily procured. When this is done with care, the pressure will be removed, and the Greek will cease to offer any objection to the English saddle.

The necessary preparations for travelling in Greece have been mentioned already (§ c). Persons well provided with all the requisites may commence their tour from any point; but they will find the horses indifferent everywhere except at Athens; and often, as at harvest-time, they will experience difficulty in procuring any at all. We cannot repeat too often the advice that the traveller should make Athens his head-quarters, and engage one of the regular travelling servants, such as Yani Adamopulos and Elia Polychronopulos, so long established there. These men can supply canteen, beds, linen, anti-vermin nets, English saddles, and, in general, everything requisite for making a tour comfortable, as well as good horses, which are perhaps more important than all the rest. The arrangement which has been found most satisfactory is that of agreeing with one of these travelling servants for a fixed price, which is to include every possible expense, at a certain sum per day for each person, after the manner of the Italian vetturini. The price varies according to the number of persons, the length of the journey, the number of articles supplied, and whether porter or foreign wines are required. A party of not less than three persons may be supplied with canteen, &c. &c., provisions, and, in fact, with every requisite, including horses and the services of the travelling servant and horseboys, for about 30 drachmas per day each, or about 17. per head, if the party consist of 2 or 3 persons, and 26s. for one person, if alone.

This sort of arrangement has generally proved the most agreeable and advantageous. Both the couriers above mentioned have their establishments complete; others now undertake the same arrangements; and, under the head of Athens (Rte. 2), are given the names of a few of the bestprovided and most trustworthy. Travellers should leave the whole arrangement of their journey to them, merely mentioning the day and hour when they wish to start, and the places they intend to visit; they have nothing to pay, and need have no bargaining or disputing during the whole tour, as the original agreement literally includes every possible expense, except the occasional hire of boats and carriages. Travellers who employ these men must not expect much antiquarian knowledge from them, but must trust to books for all except the sites and modern names of the most inter

esting classical localities. Their chief merit is, that they enable a stranger to travel with a degree of ease and comfort which it would scarcely be possible to obtain by any other means.

The wages of a traveller's servant, or valet-de-place, are 6 drachmas a-day, whether travelling or stationary; and half-price is paid for both man and horses for their return to Athens from any place at which the traveller may leave them. The arrangement, however, of one charge to cover everything, if made with a really good servant, is the cheapest and most agreeable; and for this reason the traveller should endeavour to secure one of the best at Athens, even at some temporary inconvenience. As a general rule, he should bear in mind that the unavoidable discomforts of travelling in Greece are so great, that it is desirable to have as few unnecessary ones as possible. It will, therefore, be his best plan to go straight to Athens before making a start, and there look about for a travelling servant, such as we have described above, who can ensure him a certain amount of comforts during his tour. It is also to be remembered that, in a country where there are neither roads nor inns to make one route preferable to another, travellers should make themselves acquainted from books with the places which most interest them, and be directed mainly by this consideration in the line they take.

Next to Greek, Italian will be found the most generally useful language throughout the Levant. French, however, is now more spoken in society at Athens. In the interior of Greece both French and Italian are totally unknown; hence, unless the traveller is perfect master of modern Greek (and, in Albania, of Albanian also), it is indispensable to take an interpreter, even on the shortest excursion.

No one should ever insist on proceeding on his journey in mountainous districts in opposition to the warning of his guide. Many a traveller has been caught in storms, unable to find shelter, and exposed to much difficulty and even danger, from obstinately persisting to proceed when warned by his guide to desist.

No scholar in Greece should be without Colonel Leake's works. There was no good map till the survey of the French Scientific Commission (1832). Aldenhofen's map, published in 1838, is, in a great measure, based upon this survey, as regards the Peloponnesus and part of Attica, to which alone the survey extended. It is on a large scale, with the names in Greek and French. Nast, a German bookseller at Athens, has since published a small map, which is tolerably accurate, and convenient for travelling. The best atlas of Ancient Greece is that of Kiepert (Berlin, 1851), a splendid but not portable work: and those published by Kiepert are also the best maps of Modern Greece and of the Turkish Empire.

g. SHOOTING: FIRE-ARMS: ANIMAL AND VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS, &c. There are several good seasons for shooting in Greece. In April and May the turtles and quails arrive in their annual migration northward from Africa, returning southward at the close of summer. In some of the islands and on parts of the coast, quails may be killed in vast numbers at these seasons. In Laconia, especially, they are salted by the inhabitants for winter consumption. In September and October, red-legged partridges afford excellent sport in all parts of the Levant, and particularly in some of the islands of the Egean Sea. In November, December, January, and February, there is an abundance of woodcocks and wild-fowl of all kinds, from pelicans to jacksnipes. Pheasants are to be found in Etolia near

Mesolonghi, in Macedonia, near Salonica, and perhaps elsewhere; large flocks of bustards are sometimes seen in Boeotia. Indeed, one of the many attractions of a journey in Greece is the variety of birds unknown or rarely seen in England, but which constantly attract observation there. In the interior, the horizon is rarely without eagles, vultures, or other large birds of prey, while rollers spread their brilliant wings to the sun by the side of the traveller's path; gay hoopoes strut along before his horse, opening and shutting their fan-like crests; and now and then a graceful snow-white egret stalks slowly by in searchful meditation. In the Turkish provinces, storks annually resort to breed in all the towns and villages; but of late years they have generally disappeared from the new kingdom of Greece, so much so that the Ottomans entertain a superstition that these birds follow the declining fortunes of Islam. The truth is, that the Christians often kill or annoy them; whereas the Moslems, though utterly reckless of the life of man, are very tender-hearted towards all other animals. (See Mount Athos, &c., p. 147.)

Besides "such small deer" as we have just enumerated, the wolf, jackal, lynx, fox, wild-boar, wild-goat, red deer, roe, &c. inhabit all the wilder and more inaccessible parts of Greece and Turkey; and bears are still sometimes met with on the higher mountain-ranges. Hares are numerous both on the mainland and in the islands. Seals, porpoises, and dolphins frequent the coasts. So many of the Greek rivers are merely mountain torrents, liable to be dried up at certain seasons, that there is not much inland fishing; but large and delicate eels are still found in the Copaic lake; and mullet, tunny, and various other fish, abound in the Greek seas: leeches are plentiful in many places, and form an article of export. Tortoises abound everywhere; poisonous vipers and other serpents infest certain localities. The insect tribes of Greece include several Asiatic and African, as well as European species. The vegetable products are, for the most part, similar to those of Southern Italy. The country may, in this respect, be considered as divided into 4 distinct zones or regions, according to its elevation. The first zone, reaching to 1500 feet above the sea-level, produces vines, figs, olives, dates, oranges, and other tropical fruit, as well as cotton, indigo, tobacco, &c.; and abounds besides in evergreens, as the cypress, bay, myrtle, arbutus, oleander, and a multitude of aromatic herbs and plants. The second zone extends from 1500 to 3500 feet perpendicular, and is the region of oak, chesnut, and other English forest-trees. The third zone reaches the height of 5500 feet, and is the region of beech and pine. The fourth, or Alpine zone, including all the surface above 5500 feet in height, yields only a few wild plants. In Walpole's Memoirs of Turkey will be found a very complete account of Greek plants by Dr. Sibthorp, author of the Flora Græca. Acarnania, Elis, Messenia, and the western parts of Greece generally, are the most richly wooded: the eastern provinces and the Ægean Islands, except Euboea, are mostly bare.

So many Englishmen now visit Greece and the Ionian Isles every winter for the purpose of shooting, that it is necessary to point out some of the best stations, where they may combine good sport with safe harbours for their yachts. Such directions will be found under the heads of Corfu, Santa Maura, and Ithaca, with regard to the coasts of Albania and Acarnania. Farther south, there is capital wild-fowl shooting on the lagoons of Mesolonghi, and excellent cock-shooting in the woods near Patras. Recommendations had better be obtained from the English Consul at Patras to some of the native proprietors, &c., who will provide beaters, &c. There is no law of trespass in these countries; every one may follow his game

unmolested, if he avoids doing mischief to the vines or crops. But in the kingdom of Greece, it is necessary to have a certificate to legalize the possession of fire-arms, whether for sport or for self-defence. The traveller had better procure this port d'armes from the local authorities of the first town he visits, as the fee amounts to only a few shillings; and he is liable to arrest and fine, and to have his arms taken from him by the police, if he be without it.

h. YACHTS, BOATS, &c.

The number of Englishmen who visit Greece and the Levant in their own yachts is annually increasing. Moreover, a facility exists of visiting a great portion of the country, and making excursions to the islands, by the boats which may be hired at most of the sea-ports, either by the day, week, or month, according as may be required. The price of boat-hire varies according to the size of the boat. A good-sized boat, which will accommodate two persons and their attendants, may be engaged for 3 dollars a day, though often much more is charged. If engaged for any length of time, it is as well to have a written contract with the captain, specifying every par ticular, stipulating that the contractor is to have the absolute command of the vessel, and prohibiting the crew from entering any port whatsoever, carrying on any trade, or putting any thing on board, without permission. If this be not done, numerous delays will ensue from the captain's running into all the small ports, and endeavouring to prolong the voyage, especially if the engagement be profitable and by the day.

The traveller in Greece in the summer months will find it less fatiguing and more healthy to establish himself in a boat for a month or two, and sail round the coast, visiting the islands of the Ægean, with little annoyance from custom-house or police-officers; see the towns and some of the most beautiful parts of the country; and defer his excursions into the interior until the great heat subsides. His first care should be to select a good, and, if possible, a new boat, as more likely to be free from vermin, belonging to some person known to an English Consul, or to some respectable resident merchant. There should be three or four able sailors on board, and the boat should be covered with an awning, which is to remain day and night. This is preferable in this climate to a close cabin. Provisions and stores must be laid in to last from one large town to another. Formerly, from the prevalence of piracy, these excursions were impracticable; but now there is little danger; however, it will still be advisable for the traveller to obtain the best information on this point previous to undertaking any such expeditions.

It is always interesting for a classical scholar to find himself among Greek sailors; for he will soon remark numerous instances in which they still retain both the customs of the earliest ages, and also the old modes of expressing them in language. The navigation of a people so essentially maritime naturally affords frequent examples of the preservation of ancient manners. The peg furnished with a loop of leather or rope (Tpozwrńp), by which Greek boatmen secure their oars, instead of using rowlocks, and other contrivances and tactics of the ancients may be observed in daily use among the moderns. So too the broad boat (sipsia oxedín) built by Ulysses in Calypso's isle, seems to have closely resembled that now generally employed by the fishermen and coasting-traders of the Ægean and Ionian seas. The narrative of a voyage by Homer would be a not inaccurate account of going to sea in a boat of the country at the present day; the putting up the mast