had its way.




ling fellow, not more than ten years old, he missed the blue eye, blond hair, s.ım, upwith a face as round, fresh, and sweet as a right form of the Swede, and fancied he damask rose, the bluest of eyes, and a cloud could detect an Asiatic touch in the people. of golden curls,” and at others a purple- “ You see, instead, square faces, dark eyes, cheeked damsel. Here the wheel-less car-low foreheads, and something of an Oriental riages sang over snow pure as ivory, hard fire and warmth in the movements. The lanas marble,” the travellers stopped to drink guage is totally dissimilar, and even the cosmilk flavored with cinnamon, and the winter tume, though of the same general fashion,

presents many noticeable points of difference. The women

wear handkerchiefs of some “My beard, moustache, cap, and fur collar bright color bound over the forehead and were soon oné undivided lump of ice. Our under the chin, very similar to those worn by eye-lashes became snow-white and heavy with the Armenian women in Asia Minor. On frost, and it required constant motion to keep first coming among them, the Finns imthem from freezing together. We saw every- pressed me as a less frank and open-hearted, thing through visors barred with ivory. Our but more original and picturesque race than eyebrows and hair were as hoary as those of the Swedes." an octogenarian, and our cheeks a mixture of crimson and orange, so that we were scarcely Frederika, who amused the traveller at Hapa

Typical of the North-Swedish damsels was recognizable by each other. Every one we met had snow-white locks, no matter how

randa. youthful the face, and, whatever was the “Of medium height, plump, but not stout, color of our horses at starting, we always with a rather slender waist and expansive drove milk-white steeds at the close of the hips, and a foot which stepped firmly and post.”

nimbly at the same time, she was as cheerful Explorers in Canada and Siberia speak of a body as one could wish to see. Her hair a tingling sensation in the throat, produced was of that silky blonde so common in by the excessive cold; Mr. Bayard Taylor Sweden ; her eyes a clear, pale blue, her experienced no such sensation

nose straight and well formed, her cheeks of s It

the delicate pink of a wild-rose leaf, and her glorious,” he says, and then dashes into a teeth

so white, regular, and perfect that I description of the scenery.

am sure they would make her fortune in “I have never seen anything finer than the America. Always cheerful, kind, and active, spectacle which we then saw for the first she had nevertheless a hard life of it; shé time, but which was afterwards alnost daily was alike cook, chambermaid, and hostler, repeated—the illumination of the forests and and had a cross mistress to boot. She made snow-fields in his level orange beams, for our fires in the morning darkness, and brought even at midday the sun was not more than us our early coffee while we yet lay in bed, eight degrees above the horizon. The tops in accordance with the luxurious habits of the of the trees only were touched; still and arctic zone. Then, until the last drunken solid as iron, and covered with sparkling guest was silent, towards midnight, there frost-crystals, their trunks were changed to was no respite from labor. Although suffer. blazing gold, and their foliage to a fiery ing from a distressing cough, she had the orange-brown. The delicate purple sprays

out-door as well as the in-door duties to disof the birch, coated with ice, glittered like charge; and we saw her in a sheepskin jacket wands of topaz and amethyst, and the slopes harnessing horses in a temperature of 300 of virgin snow, stretching towards the sun,

below zero.

The reward of such a service shone with the fairest saffron gleams. There was possibly about eight American dollars & is nothing equal to this in the South—noth- year. When, on leaving, I gave her about ing so transcendently rich, dazzling, and as much as one of our hotel servants would glorious. Italian dawns and twilights cannot expect for answering a question, the poor surpass those we saw every day, not, like the girl was overwhelmed with gratitude ; and former, fading rapidly into the ashen hues of even the stern landlady was so impressed by dusk, but lingering for hour after hour with my generosity that she insisted on lending u8 scarce a decrease of splendor.”

a sheepskin for our feet, saying we were Cod-liver oil in England fortifies against

good men.cold : Mr. Bayard Taylor ate half-a-pound of

Once or twice on the road the American butter at a meal to warm himself, even in so comes into collision with the poet Campbell

, plenteous a land as West Bothnia, where whom he reproves for talking of Tornea's British porter was to be had, with luxuries hoary brow and Elsinore’s stormy deep, beyond enumeration. Falling among Finns, which have no more existence than his lyrical


palm-trees upon the Susquehanna; but these which gave out an agreeable smell, and a discoveries have been made before, and are large tub of water. The floor was strewn not very valuable. At last, forgetting all with straw, and under the roof was a platelse, he was upon the mountain through

form extending across one end of the buildwhich “ it is said the Arctic circle passes," reached by means of a ladder, for the pur

» ing. This was covered with soft hay, and and remembered how he had yearned to- pose of getting the full effect of the steam. wards it in the midst of tropical balm. The Some stools, and a bench for our clothes, pale plains contrasted with the dazzling hills, completed the arrangements. There was and in this mystical remoteness lived Mr. also in one corner a pitcher of water, standWolley, an English naturalist, with his daugh-ing in a little heap of snow to keep it cool. ter. They lodged in the house of a carpenter, Wolley quietly proceeded to undress, inform

The servant-girl came in after us, and Mr. and there a pleasant repast was spread for ing us that the girl was bathing-master, and the strangers.

would do the usual scrubbiug and shampoo"Warmed and comforted by such luxurious ing. This, it seems, is the general practice fare, we climbed the hill to the carpenter's in Finland, and is but another example of the house, in the dreary Arctic twilight, in the unembarrassed habits of the people in this most cheerful and contented frame of mind. part of the world. The poorer families go Was this, indeed, Lapland ? Did we, indeed, into their bathing-rooms together-father, stand already in the dark heart of the polar mother, and children and take turns in winter ?. Yes; there was no doubt of it. polishing each other's backs. It would have The imagination could scarcely conceive a been ridiculous to have shown any hesitation more desolate picture than that upon which we under the circumstances--in fact, an indignity gazed—the plain of sombre snow, beyond to the honest, simple-hearted, virtuous girl which the black huts of the village were and so we deliberately undressed also. When faintly discernible, the stunted woods and at last we stood, like our first parents in bleak' hills, which might and the raw snow. Paradise, naked and not ashamed,' she clouds had half obscured, and yonder fur- handed us bunches of birch-twigs with the clad figure gliding silently along beside his leaves on, the use of which was suggested by . reindeer. Yet, even here, where Man seened the leaf of sculpture. We mounted to the to have settled out of pure spite against Na- platform and lay down upon our backs, ture, were comfort and hospitality and kind- whereupon she increased the temperature by Dess. We entered the carpenter's house, lit throwing water upon the hot stones, until our candles and pipes, and sat down to enjoy the heat was rather oppressive, and we began at ease the unusual feeling of shelter and of to sweat profusely. She then took up a home. The building was of squared fir logs, bunch of birch-twigs which had been dipped with black moss stuffed in the crevices, mak- in hot water, and switched us smartly from ing it very warm and substantial. Our

head to foot. When we had become thorcontained a loom, two tables, two beds with oughly parboiled and lax, we descended to linen of voluptuous softness and cleanness, an the floor, seated ourselves upon the stools, iron stove (the first we had seen in Sweden), and were scrubbed with soap as thoroughly and the usual washing apparatus, beside as propriety permitted. The girl was an adpiece of carpet on the foor. What more mirable bather, the result of long practice in could any man desire ? The carpenter, Herr the businses. She finished by pouring hot Knoblock, spoke some German; his

water over us, and then drying us with warm Ludwig, Mr. Wolley's servant, also looked towls. The Finns frequently go out and roll after our needs ; and the daughter, a fair, in the snow during the progress of the bath. blooming girl of about nineteen, brought us I ventured so far as to go out and stand a coffee before we were out of bed, and kept few seconds in the open air. The mercury our fire in order. Why, Lapland was a very was at zero, and the effect of the cold on my Sybaris in comparison with what I had ex heated skin was delightfully refreshing."

| pected. Mr. Wolley proposed to us another

Northern travellers are familiar with this luxury, in the shape of a vapor bath, as Herr custom, but it is curious to find it in an EngForström had one of those bathing-houses lish household upon the Arctic circle. The which are universal in Finland. It was a American's next launch was across Lapland, little wooden building without windows. A in a sledge drawn by reindeer, à mode of Finnish servant-girl, who had been for some time engaged in getting it in readiness progression with which he was speedily disopened the door for us. The interior was gusted. Upon the barren mountain, Lippivery hot and moist, like an Oriental bathing- vara, at the hamlet of Lippajärvi, nineteen hall. In the centre was a pile of hot stones, hundred feet above the sea, Lapp life was covered with birch boughs, the leaves of studied under its primal aspects.

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“I have rarely seen anything quite so of cold, calculated for the latitude of 650 to bleak and God-forsaken as this village. A 700 north :- 150 above zero-Unpleasantly few low black huts, in a desert of snow that warm.—Zero-Mild and agreeable. -10° bewas all. We drove up to a sort of station-low zero-Pleasantly fresh and bracing.house, where an old, white-headed Finn re-20° below zero-Sharp, but not severely ceived me kindly, beat the snow of my poesk cold. Keep your fingers and toes in motion, with a birch broom, and hung my boa near and rub your nose occasionally.—300 below the fire to dry. There was a wild, fierce- zero-Very cold; take particular care of looking Lapp in the room, who spoke some your nose and extremities ; eat the fattest Norwegian, and at once asked who and what food, and plenty of it.—400 below-InI was. His head was covered with a mop of tensely cold; keep awake at all hazards, mufbright brown hair, his eyes were dark blue file up to the eyes, and test your cirulation and gleamed like polished steel, and the frequently that it may not stop somewhere fushed crimson of his face was set off by the before you know it.—500 below—A struggle strong bristles of a beard of three weeks' for life." growth. There was something savage and ferocious in his air as he sat with his clenched ity of interior Sweden, and Mr. Bayard Tay.

Stockholm, of course, disdains the simplicfists planted upon his knees, and a heavy lor is just to its architectural appearance ; knife in a wooden scabbard hanging from his belt. When our caravan arrived I trans- but upon its fashions he is ironical. ferred him to my sketch-book. He gave me “ Nowhere are to be seen such enormously his name as Ole Olsen Thore, and I found he tall and stiff black chimney-pots (mis-named was a character well known throughout the hats), nowhere such straight-cut overcoats, country. Long Isaac proposed waiting until descending to the very heels. You might midnight, formoonrise, as it was already stick all the men you see into pasteboard dark, and there was no track beyond Lippa- cards, like a row of pins, so precisely are järvi. This seemed prudent, and we there- they clothed upon the same model. But fore, with the old woman's help, set about when you meet one of these grim, funereal boiling our meat, thawing bread, and making figures, he pulls off his hat with a politeness coffee. It was necessary to eat even beyond which is more than French; he keeps it off

, what appetite demanded, on account of the perhaps, while he is speaking; you shake long distances between the stations. Drowsi- hands and accept his invitation to enter his ness followed repletion, as a matter of course, house. After you are within, he greets you and they gave us a bed of skins in an inner a second time with the same ceremonies, as room. Here, however, some other members if you had then first met; he says, Tak of the family were gathered around the fire, for sist!' (equivalent to, thank you for the and kept up an incessant chattering, while a pleasure of your company the last time we young married couple, who lay in one corner, met!') and after your visit is over, you part bestowed their endearments on each other, with equal formality: At dinner the guests 80 that we had but little benefit of our rest. stand gravely around the table with clasped At midnight all was ready, and we set out." hands, before sitting down. This is re

At Kautokeino was passed a sunless day, peated on rising, after which they bow to each and this was Mr. Bayard Taylor's furthest other and shake hands with the host and

hostess. point north. Pausing to note certain na- thank you for the meal,' a custom still re

Formerly they used to say 'I tional characteristics, he remarks of the tained in Denmark and Norway.” Finns :

The Swedes, he says, take off their hats to “ A Finnish woman expressed the greatest every one they know. astonishment and horror, at hearing from Mr. Wolly that it was a very common thing sufficient. You must remove it entirely, and

“A lift of the hat, as in Germany is not in England for a husband and wife to kiss hold it in the air a second or two before you each other. If my husband were to attempt such a thing," said she, ' I would beat replace it. King Oscar once said to an achim about the ears so that he would feel it quaintance of mine, who was commiserating for a week.'

him for being obliged to keep his hat off the

whole length of the Drottninggatan, in a vio Upon concluding his Arctic trip he makes lent snow-storm-- You are quite right, it certain notes on the weather.

was exceedingly disagreeable, and I could “ I should have frozen at home in a tem- not help wishing that instead of being King perature which I found very comfortable in of Sweden, I were king of Thibet, where, ac Lapland, with my solid diet of meat and but- cording to Huc, the polite salutation is simter, and my garments of reindeer. The fol- ply to stick out your tongue.” lowing is a correct scale of the physical effect Perhaps the picture of immorality at


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Stockholm is slightly over-colored; it is at One of these inscriptions ran, “This is my all events unpleasant, and sends us in search bed: here I take my rest in the night, and of graceful sketches from the Bergenstift.

when morning comes I get up cheerfully and " The farmer's little daughter, however, liest down to sleep think on thy last hour,

and the other, 'When thou

go to work ; who came along to take back one of the

pray that God will guard thy sleep, and be horses, would have been a pleasant appari- ready for thy last hour when it come. On tion at any time and in any season. She

the bottom of the cupboard was a represenwore her Sunday dress, consisting of a scar- tation of two individuals with chalk-white let boddice over a white chemise, green pet- faces and inky eyes, smoking their pipes and ticoat, and white apron, while her shining, and clinking glasses. The same fondflaxen 'hair was plaited into one long braid ness for decorations and inscriptions is seen with narrow strips of crimson and yellow in all the houses in Tellemark and a great cloth, and then twisted like a garland part of Hallingdal. Some of them are thor

. twelve or thirteen years old, but tall, straight oughly, Chinese in gaudy color and grotesque

design." as a young pine, and beautifully formed, with the promise of early maidenhood in the Mr. Bayard Taylor is in himself a Babel, gentle swell of her bosom. Her complex. and utters many languages. This astonished ion was lovely-pink, brightened with sun- mine host at Westfjord-dalen. burnt gold, and her eyes like the blossoms

“ He brightened up on learning that we of the forget-me-not, in hue.”

were Americans. Why,' said he, there Not graceful, but characteristic, is this com- have only been two Americans here before in panion description of a female costume in all my life ; and you cannot be a born AmerHallingdal.

ican, because you speak Norsk so well.—0,'

said I, • I have learned the language in trav" It consisted simply of a band across the elling.'_Is it possible ?' he exclaimed: shoulders, above the breasts, passing around then yoụ must have a powerful intellect.' the arms and over the back of the neck, with - By no means,' said I, “it is a very easy an immense, baggy, dangling skirt hanging thing; I have travelled much, and can speak therefrom to the ancles. Whether she was six other languages.'— Now, God help us!' fat or lean, straight or crooked, symmetrical cried he; seven languages ! It is truly or deformed, it was impossible to discern, ex- wonderful how much comprehension God has cept when the wind blew. The only thing to given unto man, that he can keep seven lanbe said in favor of such a costume is, that it guages in his head at one time. Here am ! does not impede the development and expan- and I am not a fool ; yet I do not see how it sion of the body in any direction. Hence I would be possible for me to speak any thing would strongly recommend its adoption to but Norsk; and when I think of you, it the advocates of reform in feminine dress at shows me what wonders God has done. home. There is certainly none of that Will you not make a mark under your name, weight upon the hips of which they complain in the book, so tha: I may distinguish you in the fashionable costume."

from the other two ?' I cheerfully complied, Not less illustrative is the account of a and hereby notify future visitors why my Telemark kitchen.

name is italicized in Ole's book.” "We took possession of the kitchen, a We cannot go with the American into spacious, and tolerably clean apartment, with Dalecarlia, a classic ground in the North, ponderous benches against two sides of it, where he drank the yellow mead and saw and two bedsteads, as huge and ugly as those the pearly-toothed maidens who are not exof kings, built along the third. Enormous

onerated from nursery discipline until they platters of pewter, earthern and stone ware, were ranged on shelves, while a cupboard

are betrothed; but we part with him while fantastically painted, contained the smaller he is painting a picture of the North. crockery. There was a heavy red and green “ I opened my eyes and saw a narrow belt cornice above the bed, upon which the names or scarf of silver fire stretching directly of the host and his wife, with the date of across the zenith, with its loose frayed ends their marriage, were painted in yellow let- slowly swaying to and fro down the slopes ters. The worthy couple lay so high that of the sky. Presently it began to waver, several steps were necessary to enable them bending back and forth, sometimes slowly, to reach the bed, in which process their eyes sometimes with a quick, springing motion, as encountered words of admonition, painted if testing its elasticity. Now it took the upon triangular boards, introduced to shape of a bow, now undulated into Hogarth's strengthen the pillars at the head and foot. line of beauty, brightening and fading in its




sinudus motion, and finally formed a shep- | skirts of the glorious auroral drapery. It did herd's crook, the end of which suddenly be- not follow the spheric curve of the firmagan to separate and fall off, as if driven by a ment, but hung plumb from the zenith, falling, strong wind, until the whole belt shot away apparently, millions of leagues through the in long, drifting lines of fiery snow. It then air, its folds gathered among the stars and gathered again into a dozen dancing frag- its embroidery of flame sweeping the earth ments, which alternately advanced and re- and shedding a pale, unearthly radiance over treated, shot hither and thither, against and the wastes of snow. A moment afterwards across each other, blazed out in yellow and it was again drawn up, parted, waved its rosy gleams or paled again, playing a thou-flambeaux and shot its lances hither and sand fantastic pranks, as if guided by some thither, advancing and retreating as before. wild whim. We lay silent, with upturned Anything so strange, so capricious, so wonfaces, watching this wonderful spectacle. Sud- derful, so gloriously beautiful, I scarcely hope denly, the scattered lights ran together, as to see again.” by a common impulse, joined their bright ends, twisted them through each other, and

This extract, an example of his exuberant fell in a broad, luminous curtain straight yet not meretricious style, will assure the downward through the air until its fringed reader that Mr. Bayard Taylor is of the hem swung apparently but a few yards over right mould for a traveller,-keen, enthusiour heads. This phenomenon was so unex- astic, and capable of describing what he has pected and startling, that for a moment I thought our faces would be touched by the


PORTUGUESE AFRICA. - The hostility of possessions, everything, to use Dr. Livingstone's savage tribes is not likely to offer any real ob- words, “is in a state of stagnation and ruin.” stacle to English adventurers. The Portuguese, It is, in fact, with the utmost difficulty that the however, are not only Europeans and Christains, government of Mozambique, under which this but have been bound to England by an un- Zambesi district is placed, can maintain its broken and intimate alliance during two cen- feeble hold on its possessions. Nowhere," turies. We cannot treat them summarily, and says Dr. Livingstone, " is the name of European we therefore look anxiously for hints of the at so low an ebb." We cannot but look on this actual condition and resources of their colony state of things as likely to lead to considerable in East Africa. They are the virtual sovereigns difficulties, It is true that the Portuguese home of the navigation at the Zambesi, and we must Government seems inclined to encourage tradbe content to trade by their permission and ing in this unprofitable colony, and is aware under their regulations. Nothing, according to that the only chance of revenue rests on the Dr. Livingstone's account, can be more deplor. hope of making the ships of foreign adventurers able than the situation of the Portuguese. pay toll. But it is not easy to see how amicable Their occupation of the Zambesi and its banks relations could be preserved. The Portuguese seems utterly useless to them. The colony is could not protect the merchants from hostile purely military, and nothing that can be called tribes, for they cannot protect themselves; and trading is carried on. Formerly about 130 lbs. if traders do not receive protection, they are of gold were produced there every year. At sure to grumble at paying tolls. It would be present, the whole amount obtained annually most painful if we had to offer anything like an by the Portuguese, is from 8 to 10 lbs. only. insult to a weak nation, and a nation bound to There were once merchants, but they were all us by ties of such singular closeness as Portaruined by the slave trade. When the export of gal. The best thing would be that the rights of slaves began, the owners thought it would be a the Portuguese over the Zambesi should pass far more speedy way of getting rich to sell their into our hands by purchase.-Saturday Review. workmen as slaves than to till the ground or wash the gold, and they continued to export SAMUEL LOVER, author of “Rory O'More,” slaves until they had neither hands to labor nor &c., has a new work in the press upon the Lyrics to fight for them. The coffee and sugar planta- of Ireland. His time of late years has been tions and gold-washings were abandoned, be- almost exclusively devoted to its compilation cause the laborer had been exported to the and annotation. Brazils. Then, as it is a military colony, and In the beginning of the year 1858, a translanot healthy, few Portuguese women are ever tion, in the Russian language, is to be published taken there. The consequence is that there is of the best classical works in the English and a very large population of half-castes, who hate French tongues. Prescott's “ History of FerdiPortuguese, and annoy them in every possible nand and Isabella,” and “ Philip the Second way. Two years ago, Tete was plundered and of Spain," Grote's voluminous “ History of burnt by a man of mixed Asiatic and Portu- Greece,” and Thierry's “Norman Conquest," guese extraction.

At Sena, the only other have been selected to begin this valuable underplace of noto in this part of the Portuguese taking.

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