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that order of persons, who are known by housemaid likes them, because they chuck all the waiters and chambermaids in her under the chin, and tell her she is England as Commercial Gents. It is the prettiest girl in the shire. very likely that fat Joseph, who waits The chambers in one of these old at the Star and Garter in Worcester, country inns, has those old-fashioned would ask a stranger, who was evidently sort of comforts---the best comforts in the a stranger, and a single man, if he would world--which are only to be found in see the coffee or commercial room. To our country in the houses of those who one who was not au fait the question have been, these twenty years, grandmight be embarrassing. If he were fathers or grandmothers. They belong shown to the latter, he would find three to times which have been gone a long or four very buxom individuals, who reach of years, and in all the fast growseem to be well met, and who employ ing towns have been supplanted by more professional terms as unintelligible as the stylish, though less available comforts; slang of St. Giles to Judge Broderip. but they linger still under the quaint gaSome very heavy drab great-coats hang bles, within the latticed casements, under upon pegs about the room. Some half- the low, wainscotted ceiling of the old dozen whips stand in the corner, and an English country inn, with a congruity of amazing quantity of packages with oils aspect, that modern furnishings can in no cloth wrappers, are about the floor, the way present. Beside, what glorious chairs, and even cumber the top of the dreams come over a man's slumbers as he old-fashioned sideboard. The commer- fancies himself in the chamber, nay, cial men eye the new comer with a
upon the very bedstead, that may have great deal of curiosity, and perhaps, po. held some roistering cavalier of King litely venture an inquiry as to - what Charles' time, as he slept away the fumes he may be in?” or if he « came down in of his punch bowl? But this is not to a gig?"
our purpose. The bill is light; the hostIf the stranger absurdly imagines him ess comes to the door to bid you good self insulted, and makes little or no re- morning ; Boots takes off his cap, and if ply, there is no appearance of affront on you have favored him with an extra sixthe part of his companions farther than pence, bas secured you a seat upon the will be manifested by rather more si- box of the coach; the maid looks out lence, and circumspection in their conver from the balcony; the coachman gathers sation. These Commercial Gents are his reins; the porter says, “all right;" each the agent of some importer or manu. the grooms let go the horses' heads, and facturer. The packages are the samples away all dashes, under the archway, and of their goods; the whips are used in down the street; and the low shops, and professional style to touch the really the people looking, and the quaint houses good horses they secure to ride after, in all fleet by, like a flock of gulls to leetheir easy gigs, from town to town, to ward. secure orders. Unlike the system ob One may live at the inns of Glasgow taining with us, of the country merchants and Edinburgh,
than which there are no going to town to purchase, in Britain, better in Great Britain, at a less rate than the town dealer sends an agent to the in English inns of the same pretencountry to sell. These “gents,” as sions; but, on the other hand, the counBoots familiarly terms them, eat good try inns in Scotland, particularly those dinners, and order their half-pint of port along the pleasure routes amid the Highafter it; and make up at least half of the lands, are more expensive than similar custom of the country inns.* The host ones in the southern country. Wherever ess likes them, and always gives them a the English travel for pleasure, be it in friendly word on their periodical visits, Thibet, or over the sands of Suez, they because they are regular customers; the scatter gold like dust. Deny them this waiter likes them because they send new privilege, and you deny them half the travelers to the house; the Boots likes pleasure of their travel. Those who them, because they give him small jobs follow in their wake must look for the of packet carrying in the town; and the natural consequences of their extrava
It may be worth while to make a note of the amount of fees paid by these habitual inn-frequenters. Sixpence to waiter, the same to maid, and threepence to boots, is their minimum for two meals and a night, and their maximum two shillings to be divided by the corps servitorial.
gance-exorbitance limited only by posi- and coat through the broken glass, and tive refusal to comply with its demands. slip quietly into bed in his pantaloons. The beauties of Loch Lomond and of For if he pulls the bell-rope, ten chances Loch Katrine, (which would be put to the to one, it will not ring; and if it rings, blush, notwithstanding its fabled Ellen, ten chances to one, nobody will hear; by some half-dozen pools of water that lie and if a body hears, it is very problematisleeping among the green hills of New cal whether a body will answer; and if England,) are dear beauties, not only to an answer, we defy Irish ingenuity to the lover of nature, but to the lover of a devise a plan which would better satisfy
The little inn, seated Irish negligence, than the one already among the Trosachs, with its arbors of proposed. And if there be need of the ivy and creepers, is a very cottage in the visitor's rising at 5 o'clock, to take the wood; but only in these outward features mail for Drogheda or Limerick, let him does the vraisemblance to natural simpli- count only on his own nervous temperacity hold good. For natural simplicity ment for waking in time—“ Boots” is supposes nothing about waiters in black sure to be drowsy. Such unfortunate pantaloons, and white aprons, and gaiter- circumstances are no way counterbal. boots, who demand half-a-crown for a anced by moderation of charges ; for bowl of milk, though you eat it with a though the Irish hostess cannot make a wooden spoon, and half-a-crown more bed, she can make a bill; and whatever for a bed, though you sleep upon the limits she puts to the wants of others, floor, and half-a-crown more for service- she puts still less to her own. money. And at beautiful Perth, lying in These remarks must not be understood one of the sweetest valleys of Scotland, to apply to such cities as Dublin or Bel. we remember to have paid a bill for wax fast, nor to many houses which may be lights, and parlor, and dinner, and wine, found in the neighborhood of Killarney, and the Sassenach servitors, such as would and through the charming county of have made a fearful inroad into the dowry Wicklow. of the Fair Maid of Scott's romance. The inns of Wales are good and modBut to one wandering out of the great erate, and you get at them nice dishes of track of travel, as he may do here and gold-speckled trout, fresh from the mounthere, sustenance will come at a cheaper tain brooks; but let one who values bis rate. At a little inn, twelve miles north small coin beware of the Welsh miners; of Inverness, the capital of the High- or, if charitably disposed, let him fill his lands, under the eaves of the castle where pockets with penný pieces, or, if rich good King Duncan was taken off by Mac- enough, with fourpenny bits—a Cræsus, beth, we ate a supper of brown bread, even, could not give a sixpence to all the and oatmeal cakes, and cold fowl, and claimants in the great works of Merthyr boiled ham, and had a bed with clean Tydvil, without a sensible diminution of white curtains, and coffee by sunrise, his purse's plethora. with a new-laid egg and a trench of ba Beggars are to be met with everycon—all for a song. And not only this, where ; and though they do not, like the but a thousand apologies from the good Spanish beggar of Gil Blas' experience, woman, because what was so good was present arms—they do, like the Spanish not better. But in the progress of a few beggar, expect alms to be presented. In years, the railway will have laid its iron England they may be thrust aside; in fingers on that retired heath, and in place Scotland they are too proud to beg aloud, of the low-porched cottage, will spring and one may feign deafness; in Ireland up a town hotel; and in place of the they must be satisfied—but a penny, even, Celtic woman with her tartan turban is a treasure. and low charges, will be a lacquey in a There is yet another species of people white cravat, with extortionate demands. with which one meets in traveling, and
The Irish have the credit of being a who do their part at changing the ducats hospitable people; perhaps it is the rea to silver, who do not come within the son why Irish inns are so bad. In the cate ory of any class named. These country, particularly at the north, things are the guides not guide-books; and it will be found dirty about the inns, and is important to keep this distinction in attention bad. If the visitor finds two or view; for in many hotels, if one demands three
panes of glass gone from his cham- a guide to the town, instead of a book, ber window, and dirty sheets upon his with here and there an engraving and bed, he would do well to stuff his hat some historical notices, he will be served
with a stout man in rusty leggings, and a sit down between her and the old stewclean, straight shirt collar. Such men ard at a round table, with a foaming are very attentive, and, being recom tankard of home-brewed, are all wrapt mended by the hotel, may be confided in cloudy distance that will never brightin—that is to say, they will not lead you en. A stout porter with a cockade out of the town unwarily, when it is the catches you at the entrance, and you town you wish to see, nor will they tell must wait the time of a hall-dozen offiyou any fanciful stories about the strange cials, who try to persuade you that thev objects you may see, because they know know all the evolutions of court cere. of none; nor will they tell you any im- mony, while
you are panting for a look portant personages are buried in the at veritable Carlo Dolcis. church, who are not buried there, because There is yet another guide-the guide they know of none who are not buried to mountain and flood—from the gouty there; they will not run away with your bailiff who shows you the Wilderness coat or umbrella, but will quietly walk of Cowpers' patron, Sir John Throckmor. away at the end of the town with one of ton, to the score of ragged peasants, who your balf-crown pieces. A half-crown scream wild Irish in your ears under the piece, which it were quite as well to cliffs of the Giant's Causeway. The keep in one's own pocket, provided one guides of this class are earnest and inhas not a strange fancy for following the defatigable. They do not scruple to deorder prescribed by the man in the rusty tail to you at length their capacities, and leggings in viewing the objects of curiosi- frequently have little convenient pocketty, rather than his own choice or the de. books, containing the favorable testimotermination of accident. The town-guides ny of past employers. They may be make up a family of themselves—are found in Wales to show the toys of great lovers of brandy and water—feel Snowdon, or any trout brook in the it their duty to keep talking, though they valleys round—at Helvellyn with ponies, have nothing to say—are very careful to to take you up the mountain, and perexpress concurrence of opinion with what- haps will teil some odd story about a ever may be observed by the stranger- traveler's perishing there in the snows. and, in consequence, are quite sure of They are at the mines of Derbyshire, and their money; this they will take as if it in Dovedale, and under Ben Nevis, to was the first fee of the sort they had ever carry a whiskey bottle, and show the taken in their lives, and as if they had way through the mists ; and at Blair distressing doubts whether they should Athol, to show the falls of Bruar, and return it, or drop it in their own pockets. perhaps hum you a line of Burns' address
The cathedral guide is more useless to Bruar water—they are in the north, still; but, unlike the other, he cannot be upon Culloden Moor-they are in the avoided-he keeps the keys. And he south, upon Bosworth field—in the west, will run over with his senseless roll of they will row you around the Bell Rocknames and dates, tombs that cover the and in the east, will take you to the rocky ashes of martyrs—tombs that sepulchre isle, where Grace Darling lived and died. the hearts of kings, and of heroes greater Sometimes, such guides are useful, but than kings ; reciting in his monotone, far oftener useless. They are never satiswithout a pause, à galaxy of names, fied: the more that is given, the more is every one of which makes the ear of a wanted. Their ideas of the monied value man familiar with English history to of a given piece of service are extraortingle, and his eye to leap in his head. dinary, varying most unaccountably with The cicerone in public institutions is, of the general air and bearing of their emcourse, not to be shaken off; and his ployers. Whoever is wise, will put a services are often very essential. The few plain inquiries to them at the outset; servitors in the palaces of the nobility all delicacy, in deferring them to the last, are, of all ushers, the most exorbitant will be miserably misplaced. With a in their expectations; nor have you one pannier of cake, and biscuit, and cheese, only to keep in pay, but the porter, the a pint bottle of “ mountain dew,” a snug gardener, the housekeeper, and the but- white pony, and a guide, at a cost of some ler. The times when one could stroll ten or twelve shillings, we remember through the park, and step up by a side going up Ben Lomond to see the rich door in the great courts and give a quiet panorama of lake and mountain; and rap, and be ushered in by à curtsying we note in comparison, the ascent unathouse-maid, with a high head-dress, and tended, with no ponies but a pike-staff,
no guide but a chart, no provisions but a them, as was Gil Blas at the town of wee bit of a Bologna sausage, and no Valladolid; in Spain or in Italy they drink but the melting glacier-mountains may be stolen from him, as from Gil Blas of the Alpine range, beside which Ben's at the prison of Burgos; but in England, Nevis and Lomond were mere molehills. they will be promptly demanded as of
In reckoning the incidental expenses Gil Blas at the inn of Peñaflor. to which one is subject, the guide-book Though in traveling no country demust not be forgotten. Nearly every mands more money, no country pays the town in England of any note has its lit- observing traveler better for the money. tle description livraison, some with pic. And to observe well there is need of cautures and some without, giving dates and tion, and for caution, slowness. The facts which help the stranger so much to man who takes the rail from Liverpool to the appreciation of the scenes that he London, with two days or three in each, will hardly be without them in any place three more to Southampton or Brighton, of special interest. of general guide and ships for Havre or Boulogne, knows books, which cover the whole ground, very little more of Great Britain than none stands preëminent. Nothing is bet Herschell knows of the moon. And the ter than a map, and a thorough know poster, even, who hurries on the two ledge of English history. These two Islands, as if he were seeking a Gretna together, will open sights to a man with Green, with Lady Adela Villiers by him, eyes, at which he cannot tire of looking, and an Earl of Jersey after him, knows and which he never will forget. And he
There are places where one who is not familiar with the great epochs must loiter; there are places where one of English history, and the localities of must linger. We have seen those who their evolutions, will spend a few days could go through such a city as Glouces. economically in a garret of London or ter, and never stop for a look into its Liverpool, sweating with Turner or glorious cathedral; such a man is not Hume.
fit to travel. And one within reach of It had been our intention at beginning, Alnwick Castle—the seat of all the to give in a single paper, an idea of costs Northumberlands from Hotspurdomin Great Britain and on the Continent. about which, Halleck has thrown the But without leaving the coasts of the pretty tissue of his poem, and over which English Isle, the subject has filled limits age has thrown gray color and ivy; already too great to be extended. Per and yet should never visit its old halls, haps at some future time, we may have what sort of traveler could such one be ? something to say of the garçons of Tastes indeed must vary; and he who France, or the greasy dinners of l'uscany, explores the coal caverns of Staffordshire, or the Romansch Aubergistes of Switzer may have no ear for the wild music of land.
the Cave of Staffa. We leave the traveler in England : we Objects of travel must be different; but cannot leave him where he should keep one object—that of seeing the most at the a better look-out for the thousand new least cost-must belong to all. If these and strange objects, all the while present hints shall enable any to form an opinion ing themselves to a stranger; we cannot as to how it may be done, they will leave him, where he should keep a better have answered the ends the writer had look-out for his ducats. In France or in view, Switzerland, he may be duped out of
THE VASTNESS OF THE UNIVERSE.
A TRANSLATION OF SCHILLER'S “ DIE GRÖSSE DER WELT.”
“ Here pause, bold wanderer! Vain thy quest ;
For a limitless world still lies before.”
Brave mariner of the air,
Thine idle voyage spare.
But the world of God is a shoreless sea !"