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which the poor 'gentry,' no doubt, would have been blamed, and my melancholy history would have been handed down to the Doghertys' and 'Gallaghers' of future ages, as a convincing proof of the existence of such beings, and the fatal consequences attending a disbelief of their power.

"Fortunately, however, for my peace of mind-although, by the by, it spoiled a very marvellous story, that would have handed my name to posterity-my nerves were none of the weakest, and of superstition I had little or none in my composition. The woful forebodings, and rueful countenances of my neighbours, therefore, afforded me amusement instead of uneasiness, and I should have treated the whole affair with the contempt I considered it merited, had not a report reached my ears, that, in my humble opinion, called for a different line of conduct. For a day or two after I had good reason to believe the dread of the gentry' was not confined to the country people, but had spread among many of my own men-a circumstance not much to be wondered at, as they were chiefly of the same country, and originally of the same class, consequently, well acquainted with the legends of the former, and deeply imbued with the prejudices of the latter. I had also observed a very evident dislike on the part of many at being out alone after dark; and I was shortly after informed, that one of them had actually hired a man to accompany him with orders from Port Turling to Portnacloy, through, sheer dread of being caught alone on the mountains. I had no sooner received this latter piece of information, than I considered it absolutely necessary for the good of the service-the duties of which were principally confined to the night-to endeavour to crush such a feeling before it gained farther ground; and after some little consideration it appeared to me that the best method to effect my object was to accept Captain Green's polite invitation; and thus, by exposure of my generally believed ill-fated person, convince my men of the folly of entertaining such ridiculous

notions.

I had no sooner conceived and digested my planwhich had for its laudable object the banishment of the mischievous 'gentry,' and the consequent right of all his majesty's liege subjects in the neighbourhood to cross the mountains after dark, without let, hindrance, or molestation than I resolved to put it into execution. The following day, therefore, I proceeded on a visit of inspection to Port Turling, carefully concealing my intentions from my neighbours and domestics, lest our parting, on the occasion, should be too much for their feelings and mine. On my arrival there I made the chief officer acquainted with my design; and, with the assistance of a good dinner, contrived-notwithstanding the awful undertaking before me to pass the time very agreeably till night threw her sable mantle over the mountains, and gave me a gentle hint that it was time to proceed to business. I then armed myself with a supernumerary warm tumbler and a tuckstick, and left the snug cottage of my hospitable host, attended by the good wishes of himself and family, after they had vainly endeavoured to dissuade me from undertaking the dreary journey.

Thanks to the clew of stones already alluded to, I succeeded in skirting the two mountains that lay on my route, and crossed the first glen in gallant style, without meeting with any other mishap than an occasional plunge, that in a very short time made me, in one respect, a very suitable companion for M'Neil's mud-covered protectress. On my arrival, however, on the spot immediately over theGranny, my acquaintance with bog became disagreeably familiar; and, for the first time since my departure, I began to feel a little queerish on the occasion. My situation, indeed, was cheerless in the extreme. The deep dark glen now lay beneath me, and the obscurity of the night kindly left my imagination to stock it with as many horrors and hobgoblins as I thought proper. The silence of death, also, reigned around me-for my elevation placed me beyond the sound of the murmuring little stream beneath, and not a breath of wind swept the face

of the mountain; while to add to the general gloominess, a dark and in appearance very badly disposed cloud mischievously placed itself over the glen, beneath which cloud appeared the black profiles of the surrounding mountains. In short, my prospect was confined to one or two consumptive-looking stars, black sulky-looking clouds, and still blacker mountains-objects possessing no great charms for a lonely traveller on a pathless bog.

"Whether it were that my cheerless situation, coupled with Captain Green's invitation, conspired to affect my nerves, or that the virtue of the hot tumbler had evaporated through all the tossing and tumbling I had undergone, I will not pretend to say; but certain I am, as I have already observed, that I began to feel a little queerish. I felt inclined to admit, from a feeling that I could not account for, that there might be such beings as the 'gentry;' and the pious Mr Wesley's argument in favour of ghosts, 'that a man having never seen a murder committed, is no proof that murders never take place,' now rushed very officiously, and I may say impertinently and unwelcomely, to my recollection." 'Captain Green's' invitation-O'Donnel's ramble-and M'Neil's fairy castle, were also viewed in quite a different light; and my conduct and undertaking began to appear foolhardy and ridiculous in the extreme. In fact, I felt that, like 'Bob Acres,' in the comedy of the 'Rivals,' my courage was oozing through my fingers' ends; and the 'gentry' would have readily had my permission to retain their possessions, and amuse themselves at the expense of my neighbours, in exchange for a free and unmolested passage through the haunted glen, and an assurance that I should have been allowed to take peaceable possession of my old moorings at my fireside at Portnacloy.

'It was, however, now too late to retreat. So screwing up resolution to the tightest pitch, I commenced my descent, and at the same time struck up 'Nancy Dawson,' though for what reason I know not, except that from the beauty of the air, and the natural sweetness of my voice, much improved by sixteen years' bellowing against tempests in various parts of the world, I imagined that, in keeping off intruders, it might answer the purpose of a clapper-mill in a cherry-tree. Be this as it may, my descent had a marvellously strange effect on the strength of my lungs, and the consequent height of my voice; as the latter, unlike orderly and well-conducted quicksilver in a barometer on such an occasion, fell rapidly as I decreased my elevation; and before I had got two-thirds of the way down the mountain, Nancy Dawson,' 'unknown'st to me,' as we say in Connaught, gave place to Cease rude Boreas,' and The Galley Slave.' And these melancholy airs were given in a strain so tremulous and doleful, that they would have melted the heart of any well-disposed flint; and, indeed, forbidding as it looked, appeared to have a very sensible effect on the sulkylooking cloud already alluded to; for, after dropping a few tears, as if deeply affected by grief, it retreated slowly and sorrowfully towards the east, leaving a space, comparatively speaking, luminous, between its lower heavy black edge and the top of the mountain over which my road lay.

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'Somewhat cheered by the bright prospect before me, I continued my descent, and had nearly reached the bottom of the glen, when I unfortunately tript over a 'tussock,' and, in my endeavours to save myself from falling, acquired, as a sailor would call it, so much headway,' that I lost all command of my legs, and eventually pitched head-foremost over the boggy bank that bordered the rivulet, and fell plump into a swamp near its edge. Not at all accommodated to my satisfaction, I, of course, lost no time in extricating myself; and in so doing had scarcely raised myself from the soft but disagreeable bed accident had condescendingly supplied me with, when I observed, with the greatest astonishment, what appeared to me to be pale lights, flying from me, as the centre, in every direction. My fall had already clapt a stopper,' as we say at sea, on 'The Galley Slave,' surprise now nearly did the same to my breath; and I remained on all-fours in

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the mud, anxiously expecting every moment to be favoured nearly out of their sockets, these polite addresses, were with the presence of the dreaded 'Captain Green' and all thrown away. In fact, my last experiments were more his mischievous companions; and, not being one of the unsuccessful than my first; for on removing my hands, I country, I had little to hope for or expect from the friendly found that fear had either given my eyes a multiplying interference of the Donegal lady. I remained, however, power, or that a strong reinforcement of giants and dwarts in this miserable plight only a short time, when, thanks had arrived during the interval, as a legion of them now to my prostrate situation, I was fortunately enabled to appeared on the brink of the bank, all thrusting their account very satisfactorily for the phenomenon before me, poles in admirable time and order; and what added stil! or rather around me; for on getting one of the 'pale lights' more to my amazement was, that while the giants apbetween myself and the sky-an old manoeuvre of smug-peared rapidly to increase in size, the dimensions of the glers at night-I had the indescribable satisfaction of dwarfs decreased as rapidly. obtaining a tolerably correct outline of that useful and harmless animal called by Jack a woolly bird,' alias a sheep; and as the feet of the said animal appeared to me to rest on the edge of the bank above me, I very naturally concluded the body of it was composed of earthly mutton, and that it was one of a flock of sheep my sudden splash had alarmed. The mystery of the 'pale lights' was now, in my opinion, cleared up, as I made no doubt the luminous appearance of their snowy fleeces-which, here let me observe, I have frequently noticed in dark damp weather since-contrasted with the black background, had deceived O'Donnel and M'Neil as well as myself. My fears, consequently, vanished in an instant, and I anticipated much pleasure from the hearty laugh that would be raised at the expense of my two lions on my reaching home.

6

With my steam' once more well up-and I very much doubt whether half-a-dozen of my late host's hot tumblers would have created a greater elevation of spirits -I proceeded most manfully on my journey; and setting pookies and hobgoblins of all dimensions at utter defiance, and chirping Nancy Dawson' again, in a voice that would have broken the heart of a ballad-singer, I crossed the glen in as gallant style as I had done the first that lay on my route. Alas! my exultation was of very, very short duration! For on my reaching the foot of the opposite bank-and at the very identical spot where poor Andrew M'Neil had seen the fairy castle-I beheld a sight that instantly arrested my progress, or, in other words, brought me up all standing.' Almost immediately over my head, in the bright space between the heavy cloud and mountain already alluded to, and apparently moving through the air with the greatest velocity in a direction to cross my path, I plainly distinguished the figures of what appeared to me to be a giant and an attendant dwarf. To add to my horror, they seemed riding through the air on long poles, in the manner witches are represented on broomsticks; and my dismay was not a little increased, as may be easily imagined, when, on appearing to gain a footing on the verge of the bank immediately over me, they suddenly converted their steeds into offensive weapons, and commenced thrusting in every direction beneath them, as if determined to oppose my passage.

"Thunderstruck at the sudden appearance and menacing attitude of the figures above me, in that particular spot, I at first endeavoured to persuade myself that what I saw was merely an optical deception, and, consequently, moved my head in every direction to get them in a different point of view. This experiment not answering my hopes and expectations, I next imagined they might be merely phantoms of my own imagination; and I therefore closed my eyes for a few seconds, hoping-with what good will I did so-that, on my opening them, I should see no more of the giant and his aid-de-camp. Here again I was disappointed; for on raising my eyelids, the ill-matched pair instantly appeared above me, thrusting their weapons more violently than before. This unprovoked appearance of hostility on their side, added considerably to my perplexity; and as a last resource, I covered my eyes with my hands, pressing forcibly on them at the same time; and while thus in darkness, using every means I could think of to convince myself that what I had just seen was nothing but an illusion; while I at the same time endeavoured to shame myself out of the idea by thus politely addressing myself, you ass! are you as big a fool as the rest ?' Moving my head, however, shutting my eyes, covering them, squeezing them

This completely upset me. All doubts respecting Captain Green' and his companions now scampered off before this unexpected reinforcement, much quicker than the French did before the allies at the heel of the hunt' at Waterloo; and, as appearances promised me anything but the hospitality and kindness experienced by M'Neil, my late-raised courage now rushed impetuously through every pore of my skin, like steam through the safety-valve of a steam-engine, instead of oozing modestly through my finger-ends as during the 'pale light' adventure-fear very unceremoniously rushed in to fill the vacuum. I felt a sensation that I can only compare to that of being enveloped by cobwebs; and my hair, although it did not 'twine like a knot of serpents on my brow,' à la Byron, nearly cecasioned the loss of my hat, by standing erect, like quills upon the fretful porcupine.'

How long I should have remained breathless, openmouthed and open-eyed, straight-haired and straightfingered, I will not take upon myself to say; the chances are, however, daylight would have found me in that entiable situation, had not a change in the manoeuvres of the gentlemen above, both large and small, brought the affair to a speedy termination. At times, thrusting their spears or poles downwards most hostilely, and at other times apparently floating in the air, and crossing each other like gnats rather large ones though-in the rays of a summer sun, they for some minutes continued hovering over the verge of the impending bank; but at length, in appearance weary of merely acting on the defensive, and concluding-very justly too-as I supposed, that I had no intention of forcing a passage, they commenced their de scent, with the apparent intention of bringing me to action.

'Now whether it were that at the approaching crisis pride fortunately came to my relief, attended by the recollection of my good grandmother's advice, her favourite tortoise-shell coloured cat 'Spot,' and her bright copper coal-scuttle; or that, like Ensign O'Dogherty—as humorously described in one of Blackwood's Magazines-I ran headlong into the danger I wished to avoid, I am not quite positive; in justice to myself, however, I must add, that as I drew my tuckstick most manfully, and, like a good general, prudently directed my attack against the diminutive division of my opponents, I am inclined to give myself some little credit; more particularly as I have a confused recollection of having muttered-in a very low and tremulous tone, I admit—I'll try what you are made of!'

Be this as it may, hostilities no sooner appeared doubtful and unavoidable by the descent of my ill-matched opponents, than I drew my tuck, and, like one possessed, commenced scrambling up the face of the bank, in the direction of the division of dwarfs, which, in a most upaccountable manner, melted into one on my approach. Not at all displeased, as will readily be believed, at this phenomenon, 1 quickened my pace; and having succeeded in getting, as I thought, within arm's length of the consolidated legion, I drew back my arm to try the effect of cold iron on the dwarfish figure before me, when a shriek of terror, so wild and shrill that it pierced the deepest recesses of the glen, was echoed on all sides by the surrounding mountains, thrilled through every nerve in my body, and went to my very heart, arrested my uplifted arm, and rivetted me breathless, motionless, and horrorstricken to the spot.'

My friend made a full stop in his narrative, I suppose

in order to let my imagination work upon all the horrible possibilities of his position, and I could not induce him to proceed; but I think I could gather from him afterwards, that as his servants at home did not find him return at his usual hour, they became alarmed, and this spread amongst the coast-guard and the villagers, and they immediately called to mind Captain Green's kind wishes respecting him. Therefore, in hopes of finding his body, a general search was proposed, and the giant and the dwarf were two of the searchers, namely, his little servant boy and his tall brother, who, with long poles, were searching amongst the tussocks for his cold remains. By accident, these two fell in with their master in the enchanted glen, and while the master was concealed from them in the bottom of the gully by the darkness of the night, they, standing on the bank above with a clear starry sky behind them, appeared as moving through the air; and the captain, thrown off his centre by the unexpected sight of such figures, their poles made admirable spears, and the multiplying power of fear easily enlisted recruits, and turned the boy and his tall brother into legions of dwarfs and giants, which vanished on his mustering pluck enough to attack them. It was well he did not run away, or faint through fear, for if so, he no doubt would have been a staunch supporter of the gentry' to his life's end. But as it turned out otherwise (amongst the coast-guard at any rate), there has been less credit given to the power of the Phouca' ever since.

6

TRAVELS IN INDIA.

FIRST ARTICLE.

FOUR years ago, when occurrences in Cabul highly disastrous to the British army became known in Europe, it was generally thought that a serious and protracted war in the East must be the inevitable consequence. Leopold Von Orlich, a captain in his Prussian Majesty's guards, entertaining this opinion, felt anxious to profit by the practical experience in his profession which the expected campaigns would yield, and, having obtained permission from the king his master to serve in the British army, negotiations were opened with our government here which were not so rapidly concluded as he could have wished. Meantime military affairs in India were pushed with such rapidity and success that peace was established before the Prussian captain was able to join the Anglo-Indian troops; and thus it happened that he merely saw how gracefully the laurels of the conquerors were worn, not how they had been won. The main object of his journey having been frustrated, there still remained for him the opportunity of making himself acquainted with a remarkable land which had been seen by but few of his countrymen. Accordingly he employed some months in travelling through the wonder-land of India, as he rightly terms it. He described what he saw and heard on the journey in a series of letters addressed to Alexander Von Humboldt and Carl Ritter, names of celebrity in the literature and science of Europe. When he again reached Germany, he collected his letters and published them, under the patronage of the King of Prussia, in a goodly quarto volume.* One of the few copies that have reached this country is now lying before us; it is a favourable specimen of the German press, usually so slovenly in its workmanship, and largely illustrated by wood-cuts and engravings. Without pretending to any very extraordinary powers of observation or thought, or to superior sources of information, the gallant captain has written an interesting book. What he saw he has detailed clearly, and, we have no doubt, faithfully; what he did not see he has not attempted to supply by the exercise of his fancy. The work is interesting to Englishmen, as giving us the views of a foreigner on our Indian policy and the growth and stability of our dominion over that immense section of Asia. He has been at the pains to collect some information re

Reise in Ostindien in Briefen au Alexander Von Humboldt und Carl Ritter, von Leopold Von Orlich. Leipzic, 1845.

specting our army and the state of education in India, which cannot fail to interest all who feel any concern for our vast possessions in that country. We may add, that the work has been translated by Mr H. E. Lloyd, and, with a few mistakes here and there, it seems well done. We propose to follow Von Orlich in his travels, making such occasional extracts as may appear likely to amuse the English reader.

Captain Von Orlich seems to have been everywhere deeply impressed by the contrast between Asiatic and European life and scenery. His imagination was delighted to revive on the spot the feelings which most inhabitants of colder climes have experienced in early youth from reading stories of the gorgeous East with its countless stores of barbaric pearl and gold.' Writing at Lahore, the capital of the successor of the famous Runjeet Sing, he says When I review the events of the last few weeks, with their rich and daily change of scenery, it appears as if I had lived many months in another world; the occurrences repass before me as in a splendid dream, by which I have been spirited to the fabled times of antiquity. For in no country of the earth, China excepted, have the people retained, with so little change, their ancient manners and ceremonies, habits and customs, as in India. Here we see a state of things actually existing which the earliest historical records have already told us of; living pictures so antique that we may well believe them a reproduction of primeval times.' Whether the Great Oriental Railway Company will do much or little to efface this aspect of antiquity remains to be seen: but we are anticipating.

The journey from Southampton to Bombay occupied thirty-seven days. His stay in Bombay and the neighbourhood is described in a chapter illustrated by woodcuts, representing various classes of natives, shopkeepers, mechanics, domestic servants, &c. After the lapse of a month, pleasantly spent in a round of visits and entertainments, he set sail on board a government warsteamer for Kurrachee, a fortified town near the mouth of the Indus. During the voyage, that horrible scourge the cholera broke out, and many persons fell victims to the disease. About ten miles from Kurrachee there is a place which forms an object of attraction to the superstitious Mussulmans. It is no other than a tank supplied by a spring of hot mineral water, where fifty sacred alligators are kept. They have become quite tame under the tending of the fakirs to whose charge they are committed. At the sound of the well known voice they will creep out of the grassy water and lie like dogs at the feet of the fakir, who, to command their retreat, has only to touch the reptiles with a reed. They are fed with goat's flesh, and each visiter is expected to purchase a goat for them in return for being permitted to see the loathsome objects of Mahometan reverence. The goat is slaughtered at once, and thrown in pieces to the alligators, who, in their greediness to snatch the flesh, rush so violently against one another that they roll over in a ludicrous manner. They seem to thrive under this mode of treatment, for they grow to an enormous size; and the length of one that Von Orlich saw he estimated at twenty-five feet. Close by the pond, in a rich grove of tamarind, are the tombs of the saints, built of stone and adorned with cupolas. Each contains a sarcophagus ornamented with paint, and is fancifully decorated with feathers, ostrich eggs, ribbons, bells, and lamps. The fakirs who keep guard here assert that the tombs are 2000 years old, but there is no ground for supposing that more than a few centuries have passed since they were erected.

The captain, in proceeding towards the seat of war, passed through the Sinde territories to Tatta, where he embarked in a steamer and sailed up the Indus to Hyderabad, the capital of the Ameers, to whom he was presented. A little below Hyderabad he was amused to see the mode of visiting each other adopted by the dwellers on the opposite banks of the river. A goat skin is inflated with air and then fastened to the waist and neck; with this help they swim across from one side to the other. Some

times a ruthless alligator seizes on an evening visiter, or the force of the stream carries him away, but accidents of this kind do not frequently occur. Near Sukkur the method of taking fish is a curious sight to Europeans. The fisherman goes out alone, using a large hollow vessel of iron open at the top. He stretches himself horizontally, in such a manner that his body covers the opening, and then commending himself to the protection of Allah, works with his hands and feet along the surface of the water and against the stream. In his girdle he carries a short spear, and in his right hand a fork fourteen or fifteen feet long. To this a wide net, with a running knot, is attached, which closes when a fish is caught. The fish, when killed by the spear, is placed in the oval vessel, which all this time has been his sole support in the water. There are some more sacred tombs on an island near Sukkur, attended by fakirs, the monks of Indian Moslemism; and not far off are seven sepulchral towers of porcelain tiles, where the seven daughters of an ancient prince, sanctified by beauty and virtue, lie interred under the shade of fig and tamarind trees. The very fish, it is said, to show their veneration for the sleeping saints, are careful never to turn their tails towards the spot as they swim past, but always their heads! Between Sukkur and Ferozepore a weary journey of 440 miles interposes, which was performed by means of camels and horses. The party consisted of four officers (one of them being the present Marquis of Sligo), a subaltern, twelve sepoys, thirty-three servants, twenty-four camels, and five horses. The excessive heat of the sun and the bad effects of the night air will only allow European travellers to journey in the early morning and in the evening; and as the mean villages cannot supply either lodging or necessary subsistence, every thing has to be taken with them-tents, food, and culinary apparatus. Hence the necessity of a numerous escort even for a few travellers. To reach Ferozepore they had occasion to leave the country where British authority is acknowledged for the territory of the Khan of Bhawulpoor. At the village where the caravan drew up for the night, the chief of the place, attended by the principal inhabitants in their best dresses, welcomed their arrival, and informed the travellers that the khan had given orders they should be treated with the greatest attention, that six horsemen should accompany them as an escort wherever they might choose to go, and that a watch of nine men should keep guard over their encampment through the night. They do not seem to have derived much benefit from the guard, however, for in the excess of the men's attention they were unable to obtain any sleep. All night long they kept calling each other by name, perhaps to frighten away thieves as much as to keep themselves awake, and perpetually exclaimed, What an honour! Are you not happy!' &c. &c. On arriving at Ahmedpoor, the capital of the khan's dominions, one of the chief nobles called to bid them welcome. Taking off his shoes before he entered the tent, he informed them of his master's wish to receive them at his palace, on an oasis in the desert, stating, in the bombastic language of the East, that the khan's warriors were more numerous than the grains of sand in the waste, and that his guns could not be counted, for his power obscured the The fact is that a great part of the territory of this eclipser of the sun consists of an arid desert upon which it frequently happens that no rain falls for two years, and the whole population is under half a million. Out of a revenue of £120,000 per annum, he supports a standing army of 5000 men, at the head of which is an Englishman. An introduction to the khan took place, but we hasten onward with the travellers to Ferozepore, a small cheerful town of brick, situated on an eminence two miles from the Sutledge. The delight of Von Orlich at reaching the British camp was clouded by the loss of two of his fellowtravellers, who fell victims to the disastrous climate of India. Soon afterwards the commander-in-chief, Sir Jasper Nicholls, entered the camp with an immense retinue of 80 elephants, 300 camels, 136 draught oxen, and above 1000 servants, and this did not include all the domestics

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and animals required for the service of himself and his suite. The retinue of Lord Ellenborough, the governorgeneral, was still more superb: 700 camels and 120 elephants swelled his train.

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It was in the neighbourhood of this place that the mountain-chain of the Himalaya first rose before him. The impression,' he says, 'produced by these snow-clad masses, appearing to cleave the clouds, and surrounded by the life of the tropics, is quite indescribable. Vainly does man seek for language to express the sensations which the scene produces in his soul; they are thoughts of its deepest recesses, and no words can depict them.' The following description of another natural object is so well expressed that we give it in his own words:- The setting sun is an object of unceasing wonder and admira- | tion to us; perhaps in no other country in the world does it diffuse such an indescribable magic and such splendoar of colouring over the firmament as in India. This effect is most beautiful and diversified when light clouds traverse the deep blue sky; for as soon as the sun begins to decline, the beams become fainter and fainter, while the sky in the west is covered with a sea of liquid gold, which glows in ever-varying colours, sometimes changing into purple, then again to crimson and violet, or shining in all the beautiful tints of the rainbow. The little clouds beam like rubies, and the east glitters in a roseate bue from the reflection of the evening red, above which the snowy masses of the Himalaya rise in silver light.' He had not been long in Ferozepore before he witnessed the intensely interesting spectacle of the entry of the army on their return from their victories in Affighanistan. Brigade after brigade crossed the Sutledge with all the paraphernalia of oriental warfare, until 53,000 soldiers and 100,000 servants swelled the camp. Along with them came the adventurous Lady Sale and the gates of Somnauth, which in consequence of the governor-general's proclamation enjoyed for a time so much noto. riety. They were of sandal wood, very skilfully carved with stars and arabesques, and bordered with Keife cha racters. They were received by the Hindoos with every demonstration of respect; one of the rajahs sent a guard to take charge of them; and Brahmins strewed flowers upon them daily. The period of their construction is believed to be very remote-probably a thousand years ago. The temple, which stood in Guzerat, was considered the holiest in India, and it was frequented of special occasions by from 200,000 to 300,000 pilgrims. Though distant from the Ganges above a thousand miles the idol was supplied twice a-day with water from that river. The temple is said to have been a magnificent stone building, its lofty roof resting on fifty-six curiously carved pillars set with precious gems. The idol Somnauth, a stone figure five yards in length, two being sunk in the ground, was placed in the centre of the hall. More than eight hundred years since, when Mahmood sacked the temple, the idol was broken into four fragments, two of which were sent to Mecca and Medina, the other two were forwarded to the iconoclast's capital, in order that one might be laid at the threshold of the principal mosque, and the other at the gate of his own residence. These identical fragments are still to be seen at Ghuzni. The gates were also carried to Ghuzni, and after Mahmood's death they stood at the entrance to his tomb. It is stated to be a well-attested fact, that when the idol was in the act of being demolished, large offers of gold were made by the Brahmins to the king, if he would desist from his sacrilegious work. The monarch's attendants advised him to accept the proffered gold, but the king insisted on preceeding with the destruction of the image, saying that, if he took the money, his name would go down to posterity as Mahmood the idol-seller; whereas, it was his ambition to be known as 'Mahmood the idol-destroyer." The soldiers renewed their attacks, and the first blow laid the body of the statue open, and in the hollow interior, a large quantity of jewels, far more valuable than the bribe offered by the priests, was discovered.

During the festivities that followed the meeting of the

governor-general and the army, negotiations with the powerful court of Lahore were going on. Some misunderstanding had sprung up between the two governments; principally in consequence of the alarm felt by Shere Singh at the near neighbourhood to his capital of such an immense army. At last an embassy extraordinary, headed by Heera Singh, the son of the rajah's imperious prime-minister, arrived at Ferozepore, bringing valuable presents, and announcing the approach of the maharajah's son and the prime-minister himself. All these persons were present at a grand review of the troops; and Von Orlich speaks in animated terms of Dheean Singh's appearance. He wore a blue silk vest over a shirt of mail, with a silver cuirass outside; light-brown trousers fitting tightly, and red shoes embroidered with gold. He had a silver helmet, round which were twisted pearls and shawls of blue and yellow silk that floated behind his shoulder, and was surmounted by a feather fastened by an agraffe of rubies, which gave him an air of haughtiness. It was easy to fancy that one of the heroes of antiquity was there, when this, the handsomest man of his nation, was seen borne by his horse at full speed, with a staff in one hand, a gold bridle in the other, and a panther's skin under him. The attendants were habited in a similar style of picturesque magnificence, and when they had all entered the tent of the queen's representative, the imagination was carried by the gorgeous spectacle far back into remote times; it seemed as if warriors who had fought under the banner of Porus had once more come to life. The review was another splendid affair. A line of a hundred elephants was ranged in front of the troops, on which groups of English ladies and noble Indians were seated; whilst many other Hindoos of rank were mounted on horseback. Amongst these was Hindoo Row, an abdicated prince, who, upon seeing the blushing honours of many around him, could not help observing, 'Not long since, I also was of consequence; a few years more, and these men who are now moving in splendour and distinction, will be as I am; but so must it be-the progress of civilization requires it.'

In acknowledgment of the maharajah's courtesy in sending these distinguished persons to the governor-general, a special embassy, of which Captain Von Orlich had the honour to be a member, was dispatched to Lahore, the most brilliant of the existing courts of India. The city is close by the river Ravee, and contains about 80,000 inhabitants. It is eight miles in circumference, and is guarded by bastions and a wide moat. The streets are narrow and dirty, but some of the buildings are splendid. They were hospitably received by Shere Singh; the whole embassy and attendants, amounting to 5000 persons, being his guests. The palace, called Hasuree Bagh, was once the residence of the Mogul dynasty. It occupies a vast extent of ground, with its gardens, quadrangles, and minarets. Every where in India, the tombs erected to the memory of the dead are amongst the finest pieces of architecture. The wish to be honourably remembered by posterity amounts among those children of the sun to a positive passion; and in gratifying it they seem wholly to neglect the duties of the present. The Moslems erect enormous mausoleums and caravanseras; the Hindoo endeavours to enshrine his memory in pagodas and tanks; in short, the greater part of a whole life is often employed in trying to transmit to an after time a name which would otherwise have been lost in the dust of oblivion. At Lahore there is a colossal mausoleum, where the remains of the Hand of the World (the Emperor Jehangir) and the Light of the Earth (the Empress Nourjehan) repose, not a whit more peacefully than if a less heavy load had pressed upon them. This mausoleum is called Shah Dura, and it is almost entirely in ruins. When Von Orlich was there, he found that the brother of Dost Mahomet and a party of Affghans had taken possession of one portion, and used it as a residence.

The members of the embassy were entertained on the most splendid scale by the maharajah, at both his winter and summer palaces. Festivities by night reminded the

spectators, by the flowers, fountains, marbles, and silken draperies, all brilliantly illuminated by lamps, of the fairy scenes described in the Arabian Tales. He displayed his treasures to their wondering eyes, and amongst his jewels they beheld the Mountain of Light, one of the largest diamonds in the world, which was once set in the peacock throne of the Mogul emperors at Delhi. It is about the size of a walnut, not quite faultless, since there is a slight dent on one side, but valued with the two other diamonds in the same armlet, at £500,000. The Shere Singh's troops amount to upwards of 60,000 men, under the command of English and French officers, but the discipline is very bad, in consequence of a want of uniformity in the tactics in which the men are trained. As to the officers, each man dresses to suit his own taste, and to the eye of a regular soldier the variety of costume presents a strange medley. On setting out for Ferozepore, the guests received many estimable gifts. Very soon after his return, Captain Von Orlich left for Delhi, travelling through the sheik states, which are about 14,000 square miles in extent, and governed by one hundred and fifty rajahs and sirdars, most of whom are independent. He travelled for some time in full view of the majestic Himalaya Mountains, six of whose peaks are above 20,000 feet in height. The Jumnotri peak was particularly remarkable. The Hindoos are accustomed to go on pilgrimage to it; and, of course, all who persevere in their attempts to reach the summit perish of cold and hunger. The Brahmins, however, affirm, that whoever undertakes a journey thither, is led by the gods into the paradise beyond; and if any one ventures to return, he is looked upon as a reprobate, and loses his caste. An artful Hindoo, who had led a life of immorality, adopted this trick to free himself from his infamy, and gain a reputation for sanctity. He bade his wife and children farewell, received the blessings of the Brahmins, by some of whom he was accompanied a short way on his pilgrimage, and commenced the ascent of the sacred mountain. Not many days elapsed before the Brahmins saw him again, and, full of wrath, they inquired how he dared to return. I went on my way,' said he, and was ready to be led into paradise, when behold, the Almighty appeared, and commanded me not to fulfil my purpose. I was to announce his decree to the Brahmins, and they would take the will for the deed.' The priests were thus completely foiled, and the deceitful pilgrim obtained his object.

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THE LITTLE BOY'S PURCHASE. THE following very interesting anecdote of the Rev. Dr Vaughan of London, was told by himself, at the conclusion of a lecture on Persia, which he recently delivered at Stepney: May I be allowed,' said the rev. gentleman, to make a few observations relating to myself. I well remember when I was very young, possessing for the first time a guinea. I remember, too, that this circumstance cost me no little perplexity and anxiety; as I passed along the streets, the fear of losing my guinea induced me frequently to take it out of my pocket to look at it; first I put it in one pocket, and then I took it out and put it in another-after a while I took it out of the second pocket and placed it in another, really perplexed what to do with it. At length my attention was arrested by a book auction. I stepped in, and looked about me. First one lot was put up, and then another, and sold to the highest bidder. At last I ventured to the table, just as the auctioneer was putting up the History of the World,' in two large folio volumes. I instantly thrust my hand into my pocket, and began turning over my guinea, considering all the while whether I had money enough to buy this lot. The biddings proceeded; at last I ventured to bid too. 'Hallo, my little man,' said the auctioneer, 'what, not content with less than the world!' This remark greatly confused me, and drew the attention of the whole company toward me, who, seeing me anxious to possess the books, refrained from bidding against me, and so 'the world' was knocked down to me at a very moderate price. How

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