ENTERTAINMENT IN THE ENGLISH GARDEN. 49

ments and resources of the elegant little Capital. Half the towns of consequence, in Germany, have something dignified with the appellation of an English garden—often, a little plot of ground, crammed with grotesque seats, rustic bridges over tortuous canals, and ruins and hermitages half hid in shrubs, to surprise the wanderer in a path meandering like a corkscrew. There are, however, imitations of more taste and more resemblance-of this number is the garden in question, which covers forty acres of pleasing and picturesque shrubbery and lawn. In a retired thicket, is the simple little urn in memory of the Landgravine, mother of the present Grand Duke, with Frederic of Prussia's complimentary inscrip

tion:

66 SEXU FOMINA INGENIO VIR.

A large piece of water, which moderate grandiloquence might term a lake, with an island planted with luxuriant weeping willows, ornaments the gardens, and afforded our joyful party the juvenile amusement of aquatic excursions between the

E

island and the main land; a diversion which delighted the little Princes. A pont volant, sliding on ropes, gave a securer passage to the more steady beaux and belles, and did not fail to elicit many nautical jokes and similes. The lively young Princes, rocking their crazy bark, set up a cry of shipwreck. The ladies screamed, and an amusing scene of good-humoured, laughing, handing, splashing, and practical joking ensued, fortunately terminated by the safe landing of the whole party.

After these lively out of door amusements we retired to a large summer-house, interestingly rural rather than elegant, where card-tables and refreshments awaited us. The time was thus whiled away in goodhumoured mirth, and easy conversation, with the chance of losing a fortune of Kreutzers, till the palace clock and the drums of the guard announced the hour of nine, when half the party, called by official duties, as usual, took their hats and shawls to hasten to the Court supper.

A sociable gaiety and unrestrained ease gave a life to this elegant little party.

AMUSEMENTS.-STATE REVENUE.

51

The air did not ring with dapper compliments and neatly turned repartees, as it might have done if the scene had been the gardens of Trianon; but there was much good-humour and unpretending bonhommie, which to strangers are very prepossessing. If society here wants some of the excitements, and stimulating attractions which it presents in a great and busy Capital, it is at least in some respects more regular and unpretending, and has less of extravagance and dissipation. The graceful hospitality and amiable manners of the Baroness our hostess also contributed much to the agrément of our party in the Bosquet.

The state revenue of the Grand Duke of Hesse is about 400,000l. per ann.-besides which he has a private fund of about 10,000l. per ann. chiefly arising out of estates which he has purchased, and over which he has the disposal during his life, but which become domains of the Crown on his death. The German States have most of them a national debt, incurred in the necessities of the late wars. That of the Grand Duchy of Hesse is not, however, so very insignificant, the in

52

POLITICAL ECONOMY.

terest amounting to 80,000l. Like many other Sovereigns, the Grand Duke is especially beloved in his capital-a popularity partly acquired by little immunities by which the Princes favour the inhabitants of the residence town.-These last, for instance, buy all the wood they consume from the forests of their Sovereign, at not above half the price paid by the unprivileged rustics; and any person who builds a house in the town, in conformity with the plan arranged by the Prince, enjoys a twenty years' freedom from taxes, timber for building at a cheap rate, and other advantages. Partly owing to these encouragements, but more to the great accession of territory and population acquired by the Grand Duke from Napoleon, and from the arbiters at Vienna, new buildings and new streets are adding daily to his metropolis. Building is cheap and expeditious; the houses speedily start up of a rough composition of stones and mortar, overlaid with a neat coat of white plaster, roofed with slate from the mountains on

*This preference is now abolished.

ALLIANCE OF THE GRAND DUKE WITH NAPOLEON. 53

:

the banks of the Rhine and these flimsily constructed buildings have an air of far greater neatness and elegance than more substantial brick and tile edifices.

The Grand Duke of Hesse was one of the last Princes who acceded to the Confederation with Napoleon. He hesitated, till hesitation exposed himself and his territory to imminent danger, influenced by the advice of an excellent friend and former Minister, to attempt every possible means of effecting a counter alliance with the great German Powers. This Minister, the Baron was sent to Berlin, to urge the co-operation of Prussia. Every one knows the designs of Prussia upon Hanover, in 1806, and the temporising game she played in pursuit of her own aggrandisement, and regardless of the interests of Germany. The Baron quitted Berlin, having arranged the basis of an alliance, guaranteed by the word of the King. A few days after, the views of the Court of Prussia changed-the King's promise was recalled-and the Grand Duke threatened by Buonaparte, and, without the hope of effecting a German alliance,