This town was once the royal seat | velling, without sleep or refreshment of the Bohemian king, and is still the (for I can never sleep in a coach, capital of the kingdom. There are however fatigued). We passed by yet some remains of its ancient splen-moonshine the frightful precipices dour, being one of the largest towns that divide Bohemia from Saxony, at in Germany, but, for the most part, the bottom of which runs the river old built and thinly inhabited, which Elbe; but I cannot say that I had makes the houses very cheap. Those reason to fear drowning in it, being people of quality, who cannot easily perfectly convinced, that in case of a bear the expense of Vienna, choose tumble, it was utterly impossible to to reside here, where they have as- come alive to the bottom. In many semblies, music, and all other diver- places the road is so narrow, that I sions (those of a court excepted), at could not discern an inch of space very moderate rates, all things here between the wheels and the precibeing in great abundance, especially pice. Yet I was so good a wife not the best wild-fowl I ever tasted. Ito wake Mr. Wy, who was fast have already been visited by some of asleep by my side, to make him share the most considerable ladies, whose in my fears, since the danger was relations I know at Vienna. They unavoidable, till I perceived by the are dressed after the fashions there, bright light of the moon, our postilafter the manner that the people at lions nodding on horseback, while the Exeter imitate those of London: horses were on the full gallop. Then that is, their imitation is more ex- indeed I thought it very convenient cessive than the original. It is not to call out to desire them to look easy to describe what extraordinary where they were going. My calling figures they make. The person is so waked Mr. W- -y, and he was much lost between head-dress and much more surprised than myself at petticoat, that they have as much oc- the situation we were in, and assured casion to write upon their backs, me, that he passed the Alps five times "This is a woman," for the informa- in different places, without ever tion of travellers, as ever sign-post having gone a road so dangerous. I painter had to write, "This is a bear." have been told since, that it is common I will not forget to write to you again to find the bodies of travellers in the from Dresden and Leipzig, being Elbe; but, thank God, that was not much more solicitous to content your our destiny, and we came safe to curiosity, than to indulge my own re- Dresden, so much tired with fear and pose. I am, &c.

LETTER XXVI. From Lady M. W. Montague the Countess of·

fatigue, it was not possible for me to compose myself to write. After passing these dreadful rocks, Dresden appeared to me a wonderfully agreeable situation, in a fine large plain to on the banks of the Elbe. I was very glad to stay there a day to rest myself. The town is the neatest Leipzig, Nov. 21, O. S. 1716. I have seen in Germany; most of the I BELIEVE, dear sister, you will ea- houses are new built; the elector's sily forgive my not writing to you palace is very handsome, and his refrom Dresden, as I promised, when pository full of curiosities of different I tell you that I never went out of kinds, with a collection of medals my chaise from Prague to this place. very much esteemed. Sir You may imagine how heartily I was our king's envoy, came to see me tired with twenty-four hours post-tra- here, and madame de L

whom

I knew in London, when her husband her a formal contract of marriage; was minister to the king of Poland which, though it could signify nothere. She offered me all things in her thing during the life of the queen, power to entertain me, and brought pleased her so well, that she could some ladies with her, whom she pre- not be contented without telling it to sented to me. The Saxon ladies re- all the people she saw, and giving semble the Austrian no more than herself the airs of a queen. Men the Chinese do those of London : endure every thing while they are in they are very genteelly dressed after love; but when the excess of passion the English and French modes, and was cooled by long possession, his have, generally, pretty faces, but they majesty began to reflect on the ill are the most determined minaudieres consequences of leaving such a paper in the whole world; they would think in her hands, and desired to have it it a mortal sin against good-breeding, restored him. But she rather chose if they either spoke or moved in a natu- to endure all the most violent effects ral manner. They all affect a little of his anger than give it up; and soft lisp, and a pretty pitty-pat step; though she is one of the richest and which female frailties ought, how-most avaricious ladies of her country ever, to be forgiven them, in favour she has refused the offer of the conof their civility and good-nature to tinuation of a large pension, and the strangers, which I have a great deal security of a vast sum of money she of reason to praise. has amassed, and has at last provo

The countess of Cozelle is kept ked the king to confine her person prisoner in a melancholy castle, some to a castle, where she endures all the leagues from hence; and I cannot terrors of a straight imprisonment, forbear telling you what I have heard and remains still inflexible either to of her, because it seems to me very threats or promises. Her violent extraordinary, though I foresee I passions have brought her indeed into shall swell my letter to the size of a fits; which it is supposed will soon put packet. She was mistress to the an end to her life. I cannot forbear king of Poland (elector of Saxony), having some compassion for a woman with so absolute a dominion over him, that suffers for a point of honour, that never any lady had so much pow- however mistaken, especially in a er in that court. They tell a pleasant country where points of honour are story of his majesty's first declara- not over scrupulously observed among tion of love, which he made in a vi- ladies.

sit to her, bringing in one hand a bag I could have wished Mr. Wy's of a hundred thousand crowns, and business had permitted him a longer in the other a horse-shoe, which he stay at Dresden. snapped asunder before her face, Perhaps I am partial to a town leaving her to draw the consequen- where they profess the Protestant reces of such remarkable proofs of ligion, but every thing seemed to me strength and liberality. I know not with quite another way of politeness which charmed her most, but she than I have found in other places. consented to leave her husband, and Leipsic, where I am at present, is a to give herself up to him entirely, town very considerable for its trade, being divorced publicly in such a and I take this opportunity of buying manner as by their laws permits ei- pages' liveries, gold stuffs for myself, ther party to marry again. God knows &c.; all things of that kind being whether it was at this time, or in at least double the price at Vienna, some other fond fit, but it is certain partly because of the excessive custhe king had the weakness to make toms, and partly through want of

1

LETTER XXVIII.

genius and industry in the people, who make no one sort of thing there,

so that the ladies are obliged to send From Lady M. W. Montague to the

Countess of B.

even for their shoes out of Saxony. The fair here is one of the most considerable in Germany, and the resort Hanover, Nov. 25, O. S. 1716. of all the people of quality, as well as I RECEIVED your ladyship's letter of the merchants. This is also a but the day before I left Vienna, fortified town; but I avoid ever men- though, by the date, I ought to have tioning fortifications, being sensible had it much sooner; but nothing that I know not how to speak of them. was ever worse regulated than the I am the more easy under my ig-post in most parts of Germany. I norance, when I reflect that I am can assure you, the packet at Prague sure you will willingly forgive the was behind my chaise, and in that omission; for if I made you the most manner conveyed to Dresden, so that exact description of all the ravelins the secrets of half the country were at and bastions I see in my travels, I my mercy, if I had had any curiosity dare swear you will ask me what is for them. I would not longer delay a ravelin? and what is a bastion ?-my thanks for yours, though the num Adieu, my dear sister.

LETTER XXVII.

ber of my acquaintances here, and my duty of attending at court, leave me hardly any time to dispose of. I am extremely pleased that I can tell you, without flattery or partiality, that our young prince has all the ac

Lady M. W. Montague to the Coun-complishments that it is possible to

tess of

have at his age, with an air of sprightliness and understanding, and some

Brunswick, Nov. 23, O. S. 1716. thing so very engaging and easy in I AM just come to Brunswick, a his behaviour, that he needs not the very old town, but which has the advantage of his rank to appear advantage of being the capital of charming. I had the honour of a the duke of Wolfenbuttle's domi- long conversation with him last night, nions, a family (not to speak of its an- before the king came in. His gocient honours) illustrious by having vernor retired on purpose (as he told its younger branch on the throne of me afterwards) that I might make England, and having given two em- some judgment of his genius, by hearpresses to Germany. I have not ing him speak without constraint; forgot to drink your health here in and I was surprised at the quickness mum, which I think very well de- and politeness that appeared in every serves its reputation of being the best thing he said, joined to a person perin the world. This letter is the third fectly agreeable, and the fine fair I have writ to you during my jour- hair of the princess. ney; and I declare to you, that if you This town is neither large nor do not send me immediately a full and handsome: but the palace is capable true account of all the changes and of holding a much greater court than chances amongst our London ac- that of St. James's. The king has quaintance, I will not write you any had the goodness to appoint us a lodgdescription of Hanover (where I hope ing in one part of it, without which to be to-night), though I know you we should have been very ill accomhave more curiosity to hear of that modated; for the vast number of Engplace than any other. lish crowds the town so much, it is

very good luck to get one sorry room the pleasing hopes of seeing you in a miserable tavern. I dined to- and the very few others that share day with the Portuguese ambassador, my esteem; but while Mr. Wwho thinks himself very happy to is determined to proceed in his dehave two wretched parlours in an sign, I am determined to follow him. inn. I have now made the tour of I am running on upon my own af Germany, and cannot help observing fairs, that is to say, I am going to a considerable difference between write very dully, as most people do travelling here and in England. when they write of themselves. I One sees none of those fine seats of will make haste to change the disanoblemen, so common among us, greeable subject, by telling you, that nor any thing like a country-gentle-I am now got into the region of man's house, though they have many beauty. All the women have, litesituations perfectly fine. But the rally, rosy cheeks, snowy foreheads whole people are divided into abso- and bosoms, jet eyebrows, and scarlute sovereignties, where all the rich-let lips, to which they generally add es and magnificence are at court, or coal-black hair. Those perfections into communities of merchants, such never leave them till the hour of their as Nuremberg and Frankfort, where deaths, and have a fine effect by they live always in town for the con- candle-light; but I could wish they venience of trade. The king's com- were handsome with a little more vapany of French comedians play here riety. They resemble one another every night. They are very well as much as Mrs. Salmon's court of dressed, and some of them not ill Great Britain, and are in as much actors. His majesty dines and sups danger of melting away, by too near constantly in public. The court is approaching the fire, which they, for very numerous, and his affability that reason, carefully avoid, though and goodness make it one of the it is now such excessive cold weamost agreeable places in the world. ther, that I believe they suffer exDear madam, your L. &c. &c.

LETTER XXIX.

Lady Mary W. Montague to the
Lady R

Hanover, Oct. 1, O. S. 1716.

tremely by that piece of self-denial. The snow is already very deep, and the people begin to slide about in their traineaus. This is a favourite diversion all over Germany. They are little machines fixed upon a sledge, that hold a lady and a gentleman, and are drawn by one horse. The gentleman has the honour of I AM very glad, my dear lady driving, and they move with a proR- that you have been so well digious swiftness. The lady, the pleased, as you tell me, at the report horse, and the traineau, are all as of my returning to England; though, fine as they can be made; and when like other pleasures, I can assure there are many of them together, it you it has no real foundation. I is a very agreeable show. At Vienhope you know ine enough to take na, where all pieces of magnificence my word against any report concern- are carried to excess, there are someing me. It is true, as to distance times machines of this kind, that of place, I am much nearer to Lon-cost five or six hundred pounds Engdon than I was some weeks ago; lish. The duke of Wolfenbuttle is but as to the thoughts of a return, I now at this court: you know he is never was farther off in my life. I nearly related to our king, and unown, I could with great joy indulge cle to the reigning empress, who is,

-Pray be so good as to I have received his Make him my adieus; if I The same

LETTER XXXI.

Dr. Johnson to Mr. Elphinston."

Sept. 25, 1750

I believe, the most beautiful princess of them.upon earth. She is now with child, tell Mr. which is all the consolation of the letter. imperial court for the loss of the live, I will answer it. archduke. I took my leave of her compliment to my lady Rthe day before I left Vienna, and she began to speak to me with so much grief and tenderness of the death of that young prince, I had much ado to withhold my tears. You know that I am not at all partial to people for their titles; but I own that I love that charming princess (if I may use so familiar an expression); You have, as I find, by every kind and if I had not, I should have been of evidence, lost an excellent mother, very much moved at the tragical end and I hope you will not think me inof an only son, born after being so capable of partaking of your grief. long desired, and at length killed by I have a mother now eighty-two want of good management, weaning years of age, whom therefore I must him in the beginning of the winter. soon lose, unless it please God that Adieu, dear lady R- continue she rather should mourn for me. I to write to me, and believe none of your goodness is lost upon your, &c.

LETTER XXX.

Lady M. W. Montague to Mr. Pope.

Dear sir,

read the letters in which you relate your mother's death to Mr. Strahan; and think I do myself honour when I tell you that I read them with tears; but tears are neither to me nor to you of any farther use, when once the tribute of nature has been paid. The business of life Vienna, Jan. 16, O. S. 1717. summons us away from useless grief, I HAVE not time to answer your and calls us to the exercise of those letter, being in all the hurry of pre- virtues of which we are lamenting paring for my journey; but I think our deprivation. The greatest beI ought to bid adieu to my friends nefit, which one friend can confer with the same solemnity as if I was upon another, is to guard, and ingoing to mount a breach, at least, if cite, and elevate his virtues. This am to believe the information of your mother will still perform if you the people here, who denounce all diligently preserve the memory of sorts of terrors to me; and, indeed, her life, and of her death: a life, so the weather is at present such, as far as I can learn, useful, wise, and very few ever set out in. I am threat- innocent; and a death resigned, ened, at the same time, with being peaceful, and holy. I cannot forfrozen to death, buried in the snow, bear to mention, that neither reason and taken by the Tartars, who ra- nor revelation denies you to hope vage that part of Hungary I am to that you may increase her happiness pass. It is true, we shall have a con- by obeying her precepts: and that siderable escorte, so that possibly I she may, in her present state, look may be diverted with a new scene, with pleasure upon every act of virby finding myself in the midst of a tue to which her instructions or exbattle. How my adventures will conclude, I leave entirely to Provi- * Translator of Martial, Bossuet, &c. and dence; if comically, you shall hear ton.

formerly master of an academy at Kensing