But I think it very prudent to re-found it convenient to apply them to main neuter, though if I was to stay other uses, and the people are just as amongst them, there would be no well satisfied with bits of glass possibility of continuing so, their amongst these relics. They showed quarrels running so high, that they me a prodigious claw set in gold, will not be civil to those that visit which they called the claw of a griftheir adversaries. The foundation fin, and I could not forbear asking of these everlasting disputes turns the reverend priest that showed it, entirely upon rank, place, and the whether the griffin was a saint? The title of Excellency, which they all question almost put him beside his pretend to, and, what is very hard, gravity; but he answered, they only will give it to nobody. For my part, kept it as a curiosity. I was very I could not forbear advertising them much scandalized at a large silver (for the public good) to give the ti- image of the Trinity, where the Fatle of Excellency to every body, ther is represented under the figure which would include the receiving of a decrepit old man, with a beard it from every body; but the very down to his knees, and triple crown mention of such a dishonourable on his head, holding in his arms the peace was received with as much in- Son, fixed on the cross, and the Ho dignation as Mrs. Blackaire did the ly Ghost, in the shape of a dove, homotion of a reference. And, indeed, vering over him. Madame

is

I began to think myself ill natured, come this minute to call me to the to offer to take from them, in a town assembly, and forces me to tell you where there are so few diversions, so very abruptly, that I am ever your, entertaining an amusement. I know &c &c.

that my peaceable disposition already gives me a very ill figure, and that it is publicly whispered as a piece of impertinent pride in me, that I

LETTER XXI.

have hitherto been saucily civil to Lady M. W. Montague to Mr. P every body, as if I thought nobody good enough to quarrel with.

I

Vienna, Sept. 14, Q. §. should be obliged to change my be- PERHAPS you will laugh at me, for haviour, if I did not intend to pur- thanking you very gravely for all the sue my journey in a few days. I obliging concern you express for have been to see the churches here, me. It is certain that I may, if I and had the permission of touching please, take the fine things you say the relics, which was never suffered to me for wit and raillery, and, it in places where I was not known. may be, it would be taking them I had by this privilege, the opportu- right. But I never, in my life, was nity of making an observation which half so well disposed to take you in I doubt not might have been made earnest as I am at present, and that in all the other churches, that the distance which makes the continua emeralds and rubies which they tion of your friendship improbable, show round their relics and images has very much increased my faith in are most of them false; though they it. I find that I have (as well as the tell you that many of the crosses and rest of my sex), whatever face I set madonas, set round with these stones, on it, a strong disposition to believe have been the gifts of emperors and in miracles. Do not fancy, however, other great princes. I do not doubt that I am infected by the air of these indeed but they were at first jewels popish countries; I have, indeed, so of value; but the good fathers have far wandered from the discipline of

the church of England, as to have thor would make of it. I understand been last Sunday at the opera, which enough of that language to comprewas performed in the garden of the hend the greatest part of it, and beFavorita, and I was so much pleased sides I took with me a lady that had with it, I have not repented my see-the goodness to explain to me every ing it. Nothing of that kind ever word. The way is to take a box, was more magnificent; and I can which holds four, for yourself and easily believe, what I am told, that company. The fixed price is a gold the decorations and habits cost the ducat. I thought the house very emperor thirty thousand pounds ster- low and dark; but I confess the ling. The stage was built over a comedy admirably recompensed that very large canal, and at the begin- defect. I never laughed so much in ning of the second act, divided into my life. It began with Jupiter's falltwo parts, discovering the water, on ing in love out of a peep-hole in the which there immediately came, from clouds, and ended with the birth of different parts, two fleets of little gil- Hercules. But what was most pleaded vessels, that gave the represen- sant was, the use Jupiter made of tation of a naval fight. It is not easy his metamorphosis; for you no soonto imagine the beauty of this scene, er saw him under the figure of Amwhich I took particular notice of. phitryon, but instead of flying to But all the rest were perfectly fine in Alcmena, with the raptures Mr. Drytheir kind. The story of the opera den puts into his mouth, he sends for is the enchantment of Alcina, which Amphitryon's tailor, and cheats him gives opportunities for great variety of a laced coat, and his banker of a of machines and changes of scenes, bag of money, a Jew of a diamond which are performed with a surprising ring, and bespeaks a great supper in swiftness. The theatre is so large his name; and the greatest part of that it is hard to carry the eye to the the comedy turns upon poor Amphiend of it, and the habits in the ut- tryon's being tormented by these most magnificence, to the number of people for their debts. Mercury one hundred and eight. No house uses Sosia in the same manner. But I can hold such large decorations; but could not easily pardon the liberty the the ladies all sitting in the open air, poet has taken of larding his play exposes them to great inconvenien- with, not only indecent expressions, ces; for there is but one canopy for but such gross words as I do not the imperial family; and the first think our mob would suffer from a night it was represented, a shower mountebank. Besides, the two Soof rain happening, the opera was sias very fairly let down their breechbroke off, and the company crowded es in the direct view of the boxes, away in such confusion, that I was which were full of people of the first almost squeezed to death. But if rank that seemed very well pleased their operas are thus delightful, their with their entertainment, and assured comedies are, in as high a degree, ri- me this was a celebrated piece. I diculous. They have but one play- shall conclude my letter with this rehouse, where I had the curiosity to go markable relation, very well worthy to a German comedy, and was very the serious consideration of Mr. Colglad it happened to be the story of lier. I will not trouble you with Amphitryon. As that subject has farewell compliments, which I think been already handled by a Latin, generally as impertinent as curtsies French, and English poet, I was at leaving a room when the visit has curious to see what an Austrian au- been too long already.

LETTER XXII.

casion the pitiful case of too many English ladies, long since retired to

Lady Mary W. Montague to the prudery and ratifia, whom if their stars

Lady R-.

Vienna, Sept. 20, 1716, O. S.

AM extremely rejoiced, but not

at all surprised, at the long, delight

had luckily conducted hither, would still shine in the first rank of beauties.

LETTER XXIII.

ful letter you have had the goodness From Lady M. W. Montague to

Mrs. J.

Vienna, Sept. 26, O. S. 1716. I was never more agreeably sur

to send me. I know that you can think of an absent friend even in the midst of a court, and you love to oblige, where you can have no view of a return; and I expect from you prised than by your obliging letter.— that you should love me, and think of It is a peculiar mark of my esteem, me when you do not see me. I have that I tell you so; and I can assure compassion for the mortifications, you, that if I loved you one grain less that you tell me befel our little old than I do, I should be very sorry to friend; and I pity her much more, see it so diverting as it is. The morsince I know that they are only owing tal aversion I have to writing makes to the barbarous customs of our coun- me tremble at the thoughts of a new try. Upon my word, if she were correspondent; and I believe I dishere, she would have no other fault obliged no less than a dozen of my but that of being something too London acquaintance by refusing to young for the fashion, and she has hear from them, though I did verily nothing to do but to transplant her- think they intended to send me very self hither about seven years hence, entertaining letters. But I had rato be again a young and blooming ther lose the pleasure of reading sebeauty. I can assure you that wrin- veral witty things, than be forced to kles, or a small stoop in the shoul-write many stupid ones. Yet, in ders, nay even grey hairs, are no ob- spite of these considerations, I am jection to the making new conquests. charmed with the proof of your friendI know you cannot easily figure to ship, and beg a continuation of the yourself a young fellow of five-and-same goodness, though I fear the twenty ogling my lady S-ff-k with dullness of this will make you immepassion, or pressing to hand the diately repent of it. It is not from countess of O -d from an ope- Austria that one can write with vivaciBut such are the sights I see ev- ty, and I am already infected with the ery day, and I do not perceive any phlegm of the country. Even their body surprised at them but myself. amours and their quarrels are carried A woman till five-and-thirty is only on with a surprising temper, and they looked upon as a raw girl, and can are never lively but upon points of possibly make no noise in the world ceremony. There, I own, they show till about forty. I do not know what all their passions; and it is not long your ladyship may think of this mat- since two coaches meeting in a narter, but it is a considerable comfort row street at night, the ladies in them to me to know there is upon earth not being able to adjust the ceremo such a paradise for old women; and nial of which should go back, sat there I am content to be insignificant at with equal gallantry till two in the present, in the design of returning morning, and were both so fully deterwhen I am fit to appear no where else. mined to die upon the spot rather than I cannot help lamenting on this oc- yield, in a point of that importance,

ra.

.

LETTER XXIV.

From Lady M. W. Montague to
Mr.

that the street would never have been them all. They, indeed, so revenge cleared till their deaths, if the empe- upon the poor envoys this great reror had not sent his guards to part spect shown to ambassadors, that them; and even then they refused to (with all my indifference) I should stir, till the expedient could be found be very uneasy to suffer it. Upon out, of taking them both out in days of ceremony they have no enchairs exactly in the same moment. trance at court, and on other days After the ladies were agreed, it was must content themselves with walkwith some difficulty that the pas was ing after every soul, and being the decided between the two coachmen, very last taken notice of. But I must no less tenacious of their rank than write a volume to let you know all the the ladies. This passion is so omni- ceremonies, and I have already said potent in the breasts of the women, too much on so dull a subject, which that even their husbands never die, but however employs the whole care of they are ready to break their hearts, the people here. I need not, after because that fatal hour puts an end to this, tell you how agreeably time slides their rank, no widows having any away with me; you know as well as place at Vienna. The men are not I do the taste of yours, &c. &c. much less touched with this point of honour; and they do not only scorn to marry, but even to make love to any woman of a family not as illustrious as their own, and the pedigree is much more considered by them, than either the complexion or features of their mistresses. Happy are the shes that can number amongst their ancestors counts of the empire; they you make me. have neither occasion for beauty, mo- time without answering your letter, ney, nor good conduct to get them it is not that I do not know how mahusbands. It is true, as to money, ny thanks are due to you for it, or it is seldom any advantage to the man that I am stupid enough to prefer they marry; the laws of Austria con- any amusements to the pleasure of fine the woman's portion to two thou-hearing from you; but after the prosand florins (about two hundred fessions of esteem you have so oblipounds English), and whatever they gingly made me, I cannot help dehave beside, remains in their own laying, as long as I can, showing you possession and disposal. Thus here that you are mistaken. If you are are many ladies much richer than sincere, when you say you expect to their husbands, who are however be extremely entertained by my letobliged to allow them pin-money ters, I ought to be mortified at the agreeable to their quality; and I at- disappointment that I am sure you tribute to this considerable branch of will receive when you hear from me; prerogative the liberty that they take though I have done my best endeaupon other occasions. I am sure vours to find out something worth wriyou, that know my laziness and ex-ting to you. I have seen every thing treme indifference on this subject, that was to be seen, with a very will pity me, entangled amongst all diligent curiosity. Here are some these ceremonies, which are a won- fine villas, particularly the late prince derful burthen to me, though I am of Lichtenstein's; but the statues are the envy of the whole town, having all modern, and the pictures not of by their own customs the pas before the first hands. It is true, the empe

Vienna, Oct. 16, O. S. 1716. I DESERVE not all the reproaches If I have been some

ror has some of great value. I was these trifles of all kinds, set in jewyesterday to see the repository, which els, amongst which I was desired to they call his Treasure, where they observe a crucifix, that they assurseem to have been more diligent in ed me had spoke very wisely to the amassing a great quantity of things emperor Leopold. I will not trouble than in the choice of them. I spent you with a catalogue of the rest of above five hours there, and yet there the lumber, but I must not forget to were very few things that stopped me mention a small piece of loadstone, long to consider them. But the num- that held up an anchor of steel too ber is prodigious, being a very long heavy for me to lift. This is what I gallery filled on both sides, and five thought most curious in the whole large rooms. There is a vast quan- treasure. There are some few heads tity of paintings, amongst which are of ancient statues; but several of many fine miniatures; but the most them are defaced by modern addivaluable pictures are a few of Corre- tions. I foresee that you will be vegio, those of Titian being at the Fa-ry little satisfied with this letter; and vorita. I dare hardly ask you to be good-na

The cabinet of jewels did not ap-tured enough to charge the dullness pear to me so rich as I expected to of it on the barrenness of the subject, see it. They showed me there a cup, and to overlook the stupidity of your, about the size of a tea-dish, of one &c. &c.

entire emerald, which they had so particular a respect for, that only the emperor has the liberty of touching it. There is a large cabinet full of curiosities of clock-work, only one

LETTER XXV.

Countess of

of which I thought worth observing, From Lady M. W. Montague to the that was a craw-fish, with all the motions so natural that it was hard to distinguish it from the life.

Prague, Nov. 17, O. S. 1716.

The next cabinet was a large col- I HOPE my dear sister wants no lection of agates, some of them ex- new proof of my sincere affection for tremely beautiful and of uncommon her; but I am sure if you do, I could size, and several vases of lapis lazuli. not give you a stronger than writing I was surprised to see the cabinet at this time, after three days, or more of medals so poorly furnished; I did properly speaking, three nights and not remark one of any value, and days, hard post travelling.—The they are kept in a most ridiculous kingdom of Bohemia is the most dedisorder. As to the antiques, very sert of any I have seen in Germafew of them deserve that name. Up-ny. The villages are so poor, and on my saying they were modern, I the post-houses so miserable, that could not forbear laughing at the an- clean straw and fair water are blessswer of the profound antiquary that ings not always to be met with, and showed them, that they were ancient better accommodation not to be hopenough, for to his knowledge they ed for. Though I carried my own had been there these forty years; but bed with me, I could not sometimes the next cabinet diverted me yet find a place to set it up in; and I rabetter, being nothing else but a par-ther chose to travel all night, as cold cel of wax babies, and toys in ivory, as it is, wrapped up in my furs, than very well worthy to be presented go into the common stoves, which are children of five years old. Two filled with a mixture of all sorts of ill of the rooms were wholly filled with scents.