no doubt. I hear lord Cobham and making large amends by deeds of eslord Gower are going to resign; and, timation. But thus it is always with I hope, with less regret than I resign his sex, and a man thinks it is no my pen; but the letters are sent for. more necessary to be as innocent as Time is a monarch that commands, a woman, than to be as fair. Poor as many sovereigns do, to the vexa- little man, may Heaven protect him! tion and detriment of their subjects; I wish he may be of as contented a therefore to show my loyalty to King spirit at the same age as his mother; Time, I must obey his minister, the and that his cheerfulness too may hour, that commands my letter hence. My sister desires her compliments. I am, my dear lady duchess, your most grateful and affectionate E. MONTAGU. LETTER XV. From Mrs. Elizabeth Montagu to York, August, 1744. arise, not from love of himself, but I AM now writing to you from the very place from whence I began my I shall say nothing about it, nor would journey of life. You will think that the Muses permit my grey goose quill I may feel some uneasiness on the re- to describe their sacred haunt. From flection of returning to this place, af- thence we went to Stowe, of which ter so many years wandering through so much has been said and written. the world, with so little improvement I shall only tell you how I was affectand addition of merit, which is all ed by the gardens, of which probathat time leaves behind it. Too true bly neither verse nor prose writer it is that reflection has given some would ever inform you. It is indeed pain, and cost me a sigh or two; but it a princely garden, more like, I beis some comfort that my blank page lieve, to that where the sapient king has not been blotted with the stains held dalliance with his fair Egyptian of vice; if any good deeds shall ever spouse, than to Paradise: its beauties be written there, they will be legi- are the effects of expense and taste; ble, and suffer no various interpreta- the objects you see are various, yet tions even from critics. Twenty- the result is not variety. Lord Cobtwo years and ten months ago I ham has done by his garden as kings was just the age my son is now: as do by their subjects, made difference his way through life will lie through by title and artificial addition, where the high roads of ambition and plea- nature made none; yet altogether it is sure, he will hardly pass so unspotted, a pleasing scene, where a philosophic but, I hope, a better-informed travel-mind would enjoy full happiness, the ler than I have done through my lit-disappointed ambitious some consotle private path. His account will lation. The buildings are many consist of many articles, pray God of them censured by connoisseurs as the balance may be right! I would bad; however, their intention and have him think joy is for the pure of use is good; they are, for the most heart, and not giddily sacrifice the part, dedicated to the memory of the smallest part of integrity in hope of wise, the good, and great; so they raise in the ambitious a noble emula-in letting you know that I have safetion, in the humble a virtuous venera-ly passed the sea, though we had the tion: kinds of homage that mend the ill fortune of a storm. We were heart that pays them. From Stowe persuaded by the captain of the we went to my brother Montagu's in yacht to set out in a calm, and he Leicestershire, where we passed a pretended there was nothing so easy week very agreeably. The next as to tide it over; but, after two days place we saw was T- ; the house slowly moving, the wind blew so is large, but the company it has of hard, that none of the sailors could late received makes one see it with keep their feet, and we were all Sunprejudice; the luxury of a hogstye day night tossed very handsomely. must be disgustful; indeed I was I never saw a man more frighted than glad to get out of the house, every the captain. For my part, I have been creature in it, and every thing one so lucky neither to suffer from fear saw was displeasing; as to the park, nor sea-sickness; though, I confess, it wants nature's cheerful livery, the I was so impatient to see myself sprightly green; the famous cascade once more upon dry land, that I did not please me, who have seen would not stay till the yacht could some made by the bounteous hand get to Rotterdam, but went in the of Nature, to which man's magnifi-long-boat to Helvoetsluys, where we cence is poor and chetive. From had voitures to carry us to the Briel. hence we came to York, where we I was charmed with the neatness of have just been viewing the cathe-that little town; but my arrival at dral; of all the gothic buildings I Rotterdam presented me a new scene ever saw, the most noble, taken to- of pleasure. All the streets are paved gether, or considered in parts. Go- with broad stones, and before many thic architecture, like gothic govern- of the meanest artificer's doors are ment, seems to make strength and placed seats of various coloured marpower of resistance its chief pride; bles, so neatly kept, that, I'll assure this noble cathedral looks as if it you, I walked almost all over the town might defy the consuming power of yesterday, incognito, in my slippers, all-devouring Time. We are to visit without receiving one spot of dirt; the fine assembly room before we and you may see the Dutch maids leave York, which, I hear, is built in washing the pavement of the street, the manner of an Egyptian hall, or with more application than ours do banqueting-room. Dr. Shaw would our bed-chambers. The town seems tell us in what place Cleopatra would so full of people, with such busy have chosen to sit. I must put an faces all in motion, that I can hardly end to my letter, which has been fancy it is not some celebrated fair; something in the style of the raree- but I see it is every day the same. showman," you shall see what you It is certain no town can be more shall see. I am, dear madam, your advantageously situated for commost sincere and faithful humble merce. Here are seven large canals, servant, E. MONTAGU. on which the merchant ships come up to the very doors of their houses. The shops and warehouses are of à surprising neatness and magnifi Lady M. W. Montague to the Coun- cence, filled with an incredible quantity of fine merchandize, and so Rotterdam, Aug. 3, O. S. 1716. much cheaper than what we see in I FLATTER myself (dear sister) England, that I have much ado to that I shall give you some pleasure persuade myself that I am still so VOL. IV. Nos. 51 & 52. LETTER XVI. tess of near it. Here is neither dirt nor beg-boats passing and repassing. Every gary to be seen. One is not shock-twenty paces gives you the prospect ed with those loathsome cripples, so of some villa, and every four hours common in London, nor teased with that of a large town, so surprisingly the importunity of idle fellows and neat, I am sure you would be charmwenches, that choose to be nasty and ed with them. The place I am now lazy. The common servants and at is certainly one of the finest villittle shop-women here are more nice- lages in the world. Here are several ly clean than most of our ladies, and squares finely built, and (what I the great variety of neat dresses (ev- think a particular beauty) the whole ery woman dressing her head after set with thick large trees. The her own fashion) is an additional Voor-hout is, at the same time, the pleasure in seeing the town. You Hyde Park and Mall of the people see, hitherto, I make no complaints, of quality; for they take the air in dear sister, and if I continue to like it both on foot and in coaches. travelling as well as I do at present, There are shops for wafers, cool liI shall not repent my project. It quors, &c. I have been to see sewill go a great way in making me veral of the most celebrated gardens, satisfied with it, if it affords me an but I will not tease you with their opportunity of entertaining you. But descriptions. I dare swear you think it is not from Holland that you must my letter already long enough. But expect a disinterested offer. I can I must not conclude without begging write enough in the style of Rotter- your pardon, for not obeying your dam, to tell you plainly, in one word, commands, in sending the lace you that I expect returns of all the Lon-ordered me. Upon my word, I can You see I have already yet find none, that is not dearer than learnt to make a good bargain, and you may buy it in London. If you that it is not for nothing I will so want any India goods, here are great much as tell you I am your affection- variety of pennyworths, and I shall ate sister. follow your orders with great pleasure and exactness, being, dear madam, &c. &c. don news. LETTER XVII. Lady Mary W. Montague to Mrs. S LETTER XVIII. Lady M. W. Montague to Mrs. S. C. Nimeguen, Aug. 13, O. S. 1716. Hague, Aug. 5, O. S. 1716. I MAKE haste to tell you, dear madam, that after all the dreadful fa- I AM extremely sorry, my dear S., tigues you threatened me with, I am that your fears of disobliging your hitherto very well pleased with my relations, and their fears for your journey. We take care to make health and safety, have hindered me such short stages every day, that I from enjoying the happiness of your rather fancy myself upon parties of company, and you the pleasure of a pleasure than upon the road, and diverting journey. I receive some sure nothing can be more agreeable degree of mortification from every than travelling in Holland. The agreeable novelty, or pleasing proswhole country appears a large gar-pect, by the reflection of your havden; the roads are well paved, shaded ing so unluckily missed the delight on each side with rows of trees, and which I know it would have given bordered with large canals, full of you. If you were with me in this LETTER XIX. Lady M. W. Montague to the IF my lady Cologne, Aug. 16, O: S. 1716. could have any town, you would be ready to expect by some of his flock, that he is a perto receive visits from your Notting- son of particular fame amongst them. ham friends. No two places were I believe by this time you are as ever more resembling; one has but much tired with my account of him, to give the Maese the name of the as I was with his sermon; but I am Trent, and there is no distinguish-sure your brother will excuse a diing the prospect. The houses, like gression in favour of the church of those of Nottingham, are built one England. You know, speaking disabove another, and are intermixed, respectfully of the Calvinists, is the in the same manner, with trees and same thing as speaking honourably of gardens. The tower, they call Ju- the church. Adieu, my dear S., allius Cæsar's, has the same situation ways remember me, and be assured I with Nottingham Castle; and I can- can never forget you, &c. &c. not help fancying I see from it the Trent field, Adboulton, places so well known to us. It is true, the fortifications make a considerable difference. All the learned in the art of war bestow great commendations on them; for my part, that know nothing of the matter, I shall content myself with telling you, it is a very pretty walk on the ram- notion of the fatigues that I have sufparts, on which there is a tower, fered these two last days, I am sure very deservedly called the Belvidere, she would own it a great proof of rewhere people go to drink coffee, tea, gard that I now sit down to write to &c. and enjoy one of the finest pros- her. We hired horses from Nimepects in the world. The public walks guen hither, not having the convehave no great beauty, but the thick niency of the post, and found but very shade of the trees, which is solemnly indifferent accommodations at Reindelightful. But I must not forget to berg, our first stage; but it was notake notice of the bridge, which ap- thing to what I suffered yesterday. peared very surprising to me. It is We were in hopes to reach Cologne; large enough to hold hundreds of our horses tired at Stamel, three men, with horses and carriages.-hours from it, where I was forced to They give the value of an English pass the night in my clothes, in a two-pence to get upon it, and then room not better than a hovel; for away they go, bridge and all, to the though I have my bed with me, I other side of the river, with so slow a had no mind to undress where the motion, one is hardly sensible of any wind came from a thousand places. at all. I was yesterday at the French We left this wretched lodging at day church and stared very much at their break, and about six this morning, manner of service. The parson clap- came safe here, where I got immediped on a broad-brimmed hat, in the ately into bed. I slept so well for three first place, which gave him entirely hours, that I found myself perfectthe air of what d'ye call him, in Bar- ly recovered, and have had spirits tholomew fair, which he kept up by enough to go and see all that is cuextraordinary antic gestures, and rious in the town; that is to say, the preaching much such stuff as t'other churches, for here is nothing else talked to the puppets. However, the worth seeing. This is a very large congregation seemed to receive it with town, but the most part of it is old great devotion; and I was informed, built. The Jesuit's church, which is the neatest, was showed me, in a very don. I give you a thousand thanks complaisant manner, by a handsome for your good wishes, and have such young Jesuit; who, not knowing an opinion of their efficacy, that I who I was, took a liberty in his am persuaded I owe, in part, to them compliments and railleries, which the good luck of having proceeded very much diverted me, having never so far on my long journey without before seen any thing of that na- any ill accident. For I do not ture. I could not enough admire reckon it any to have been stopped the magnificence of the altars, the a few days in this town by a cold, rich images of the saints (all massy since it has not only given me an opsilver), and the enchasures of the portunity of seeing all that is curious relics, though I could not help mur- in it, but of making some acquainmuring, in my heart, at the profusion tance with the ladies, who have all of pearls, diamonds, and rubies, be- been to see me with great civility, stowed on the adornment of rotten particularly madame the wife teeth and dirty rags. I own that I of our king's envoy from Hanover. had wickedness enough to covet St. She has carried me to all the assemUrsula's pearl necklace; though per- blies; and I have been magnifihaps this was no wickedness at all, cently entertained at her house, an image not being certainly one's which is one of the finest here. You neighbour; but I went yet farther, know that all the nobility of this and wished the wench herself con- place are envoys from different states. verted into dressing plate. I should Here are a great number of them; also gladly see converted into silver, and they might pass their time a great St. Christopher, which I im- agreeably enough, if they were less agine would look very well in a cis- delicate on the point of ceremony. tern. These were my pious reflec- But instead of joining in the design tions; though I was well satisfied to of making the town as pleasant to see, piled up to the honour of our na- one another as they can, and imtion, the skulls of the Eleven Thou- proving their little societies, they sand Virgins. I have seen some amuse themselves no other way than hundreds of relics here of no less with perpetual quarrels, which they consequence; but I will not imitate take care to eternise, by leaving them the common style of travellers so far to their successors; and an envoy to as to give you a list of them, being Ratisbon receives, regularly, half n persuaded that you have no manner dozen quarrels, among the perquiof curiosity for the titles given to sites of his employment. You may jaw bones and bits of wormeaten be sure the ladies are not wanting, wood. Adieu, I am just going to sup- on their side, in cherishing and imper, where I shall drink your health proving these important piques, which in an admirable sort of Lorrain wine, which I am sure is the same you call Burgundy in London, &c. &c. LETTER XX. divide the town almost into as many parties as there are families. They choose rather to suffer the mortification of sitting almost alone on their assembly nights, than to recede one jot from their pretensions. I have not been here above a week, and yet I have heard from almost every one of them, the whole history of Ratisbon, Aug. 30, O. S. 1716. their wrongs, and dreadful complaints I HAD the pleasure of receiving of the injustice of their neighbours, yours but the day before I left Lon-in hopes to draw me to their party. Lady Mary W. Montague to |