A particular Description of the Coasts and Ports of the CASPIAN SEA, extracted from a Journal of Voyages in that Sea. By a RUSSIAN OFFICER. "THE distance from Astrachan to Yerkie is 60 English miles; the channel for the most part pretty good, except just below Iwan Chuk, where, at low water, it is scarcely eight feet deep. Ships formerly entered and cleared out at Yerkie; but that place being now almost overflown, the customs are removed to Sadlistova, about two leagues to the northward. "Near Yerkie is the island Caraza, where all imports are landed during quarantine, warehouses are built for their reception, and ships lay off for the same purpose. There are generally 7 feet water on Yerkie bar, but upon extraordinary winds the surface rises to nine or ten feet. In order to sail over Yerkie bar, and down to Cheteriebogorie, steer when you get to the lower part of the river below Yerkie, and are past the reeds, a little westerly; or if the weather be clear, and shews Chetirie-bogorie, keep the land open; then sailing over 74 feet water, you find a bottom of hard sand for near half a mile, when it deepens to 2 and 2 fathoms. If you come to anchor in 24 fathoms, run it about two cables length to the west, towards a little red cliff on the island Tooleena, where there are three fathoms water, and good holding ground with black nud and sand. “All the coast is very low and marshy; the air over it being generally hazy, it is difficult to distinguish places. All vessels take their departure from Yerlie, and this place they also make when homeward bound. "Goufna-serotka lies about nine leagues to the southward of Yerkie, and near it there are generally two fathoms water; but on the middle sand, which lies off Chetirie-bogorie, from SSE to SSES at the distance of near eight leagues, there are only eight feet water. It must be remarked, that as low as Chetirie-bogorie there is usually fresh water, except after a gale of southerly wind. On leaving the bank of Goufna-seroika, the sea deepens so much you cannot find a bottom with any line. "In this sea there are no tides; but hard gales of wind, either from the north or south, raise the water three or four feet, and sometimes more; and when these gales cease, the water returns to its ordinary depth, with a prodigious current and turbulent sea. It must also be observed, that it is the same on the Persian as on the Russian coasts; but rendered stronger and more irregular on the latter, by the streams which issue from the Volga, Jamba, and Yaeik. This occasions the loss of many vessels; for the force of these currents is apt to deceive. Captain Woodroofe, af ter his first voyage, instead of heaving the log, made use of deep sea-lines, and the heaviest lea; for the lead remaining steady, di-covered his course more exactly. It is also to be noted, that on the north coast, the soundings begin before you enter much into these contrary currents, which are gene rally rally occasioned by the wind coming from the opposite points of north or south. The Russians lose many vessels on the shoals of the north coast for want of attention and skill. These vessels when laden, generally draw nine or ten feet water; and as they run into eleven or twelve feet before a south or southeast wind, which frequently raise a rolling sea, it must necessarily endanger their security. This might be easily be prevented, by keeping to the eastward towards Karaganskoi, or the island of Kuralie, in all which are very safe roads. "As the land both at Chitcheena and Kulalie is low and marshy, and spring and fall are generally attended with great fogs; the unexperienced navigator must be on his guard, particularly on the west coast, where he must keep his lead going; and when he comes into 35 or 40 fathoms water, he must then edge into 30 fathoms: as he approaches Chitcheena the ground is shelly, with a light grey sand. Then hauling out NNE or NEON he will pass over a clean white sand, which runs out SE from Chitcheena into 12 and 15 fathoms water. The nearer he approaches to Tooleena the blacker the ground, but about five leagues to the eastward is a clean grey sand without mud. "The distance between Chitcheena and Tooleena is about nine leagues, eight of which are a good channel: but it must be particularly remarked, that Tooleena is rather a shoal than an island; for when the water is high, nothing but reeds appear upon it, and in turning to windward, it is not adviseable to stand nearer either to it or Chitcheena than in three fathoms water. If necessity obliges you to run between the point of land and Chitcheena, keep pretty close to the point, because on the other side there a shoal which runs a great way, and a little spot that is quite dry. be so "At Derbend there was formerly a landing-place for goods, but it is now under water. This is the worst port, if it may called, in the whole Caspian Sea, not only with regard to the loading and unloading of boats on the shore, but from the stony foul ground in the road. "On the west coast you ought to heave the lead as soon as you make Derbend. When on shore you will find hard stony ground intermixed with cockle and muscle shells, in about 30 or 40 fathoms. "From May to September there are seldom any hard gales of wind, and therefore ships in Derbend road" bringing the lower end of the south wall to bear due west, may lie in seven fathom water, which is about three quarters of an English mile from the shore. Here is a clean spot of sandy ground, for at least two cables length every way; but in winter it is not adviseable to come nearer than a mile and a half, in eleven fathoms, and to lie as near the middle of the two walls as possible, where the ground is not altogether so bad; but there are many loose stones very hurtful to cables, so that care must be taken not to lay too slack moored, that the variable winds which blow on this coast, and the counter currents which sometimes shift several times a day, may not do mischief. It is always found best to lie at single anchor, and to have your sails furled with rope yarn, so as to be ready on any emergency. The easterly winds are never known to blow above two and a half points from the shore. "The "The next port is Niczarad, by others called Niezawey, where there is clean holding ground of ouze and sand. Between this and Spitzbermack, is a remarkably rocky hill near the sea-side. The Russian charts mention two rocks, called the Dwa Bratie*; but Captain Woodroofe says, he traced that place very often without finding them. The Russians and Persians often pass through the streights of Apshewn, between Sweetoi and the main; this is very surprising, as the passage is dangerous, and they have 30 leagues of good searoom between Zeloi and the eastern main. If the navigator is under a necessity of going between Sweetoi and the western main, there is, he will find, a good channel through it, with three and a half fathoms clay ground for near half a mile wide; but on both sides are many rocks, so that there is no venturing except by day-light, and taking proper care to keep the lead going. On the south side of Zeloi there is good anchoring ground, and protection from the northerly winds; care, however, must be taken of a shoal that runs ESE from this island, which rises pretty bold, and has white cliffs on the south side, in clear weather they may be seen at the distance of five or six leagues. "If bound from the northward to Baku, it will be necessary to give the great Shah's bank a good birth; then haul in about WNW for the entrance of the bay, which lies be tween the island Nargin and a little fishing-town. On a bluff point on the western main, is a clear channel of seven fathoms, near a league over. Vessels sometimes go to the eastward of Nargin; but the rocks of Daverish, as well as several shoals which were formerly islands, together with the small depth of three fathoms, reader that channel dangerous. On the east side of the bay of Baku they dig salt and brimstone, and coasting vessels receive their loadings. In the mole of Baku are two fathoms water. This may be denominated the best, if not the only true port in the Caspian sea. "The island Boullah lies to the SW of Baku; to the east and south there are about 10 fathoms water; but to the west is a bank of sand from the western main, which is almost dry. "Swinoy is a bold island, about four leagues from the western main; but there are two rocks near the north end of it. The shoal of sand, called the little Shah's bank, is about six miles long, and two broad, and has only 14 feet water: The soundings round it are very gradual, and as you approach it, the ground changes from loose mud to sand. The island Kura, though low, is very steep on all sides. About three leagues SE by S from this island, is a rock just by the water's edge, which at a distance, resembles two boats. Neither the Russians nor the Persians in my time were acquainted with them; and it is more than probable that many vessels, in their pas sage from the river Kura to Baku, have been lost upon this spot, so as never to have been heard of more. This river has at the entrance two fathoms water, and is a general rendezvous for all Persian vessels going to, or returning from Baku. Coming in with the coast, navigators should take particular As expressed in the sea-chart. care care to avoid a bank of sand about five leagues to the westward of Entzellee, where there are only 11 feet water. The proper place for anchoring in Enzellee road, is to bring the storehouses on the west side of the bar to bear SS W and to run into 10 or 12 fathoms water. Captain Woodroofe frequently observed, that in coming from the northward with a hard gale of wind at north, on his arrival on this coast, it has veered to the north-west, the south-east, or, as generally happens to the west; so that when the wind is north at sea, the vessels in this road have it in the points just mentioned, lie in the trough of the sea, and ride in a very disagreeable, as well as in secure, manner. "The river Sefietrood having seldom above three feet water at its entrance, is of no use to ships, though there is very good depth within the bar. As a rapid stream runs from this river into the sea with a great eddy, it is not proper to hold nearer than seven fathoms water, though there is five or six fathoms within three quarters of a mile from the shore. If you get into this eddy with little or no wind, there is great danger of being driven ashore to the southward, and many a Persian vessel has been lost in calm weather. About four miles up the Sefietrood, a small channel runs into the lake of Enzellee, and serves as a passage for boats; but at very low water they are obliged to haul them over a shoal of about 40 yards. Were it not for this inconvenience, there would be a communication between Perrybazar and Rudizar, for loaded boats, without the necessity of going to sea. To the southward of Sefiétrood there is a cove, the entrance of which is near a cable's length, with two fathoms water; and as there is the same depth within, 12 or 15 sail of ships might lie land-locked with the utmost security. "The next port is Langarood cove, which is about two and a half miles from east to west, and about one from north to south. As it has 10 or 11 feet water, it would stand one of the highest in rank, were it not that the entrance is so narrow, that it must be buoyed before it is attempted. Langarood road is however much frequented: the best place to anchor, is to bring the point on the south side of the bar to bear S W by W and the peak of Lahijan hill W SW, running into seven fathoms water, where there is clean sandy ground one mile and a half from the shore. It must be observed there is a bank of sand which extends itself from Sefiétrood about three leagues to the bottom of this bay. On the edge of this bank about 20 fathoms, there is soft mud. The river which runs up to Langarood, is about a cable's length to the westward of the south of the bar, and is almost concealed with reeds. Its course is N E. There is a shoal of seven feet, but it afterwards deepens to two fathoms. "Alemmarood, or, as it is sometimes called Obeasky, is a small village to the east, with a river navigable for boats drawing four feet water. By means of the lakes, it communicates with Meschedizar : off which you may anchor in nine fathoms water in clean ground. "The next place is Tarabad, on the east side of the bank of a little river. Off this town one' may anchor in 10 fathoms water in good ground; however the best of these roads on the south coast are are but disagreeable, as there is generally a swell from the sea. The wind is generally westerly; when it comes from the east point it is very moderate, and attended with pleasant weather even in the midst of winter. The navigation of the SE part of the Caspian from Farabad to Astrabad bay is very safe and easy, the soundings regular, and the ground clear. The palace of Ashereff, which is built with stone, is a good landmark, and may be seen a great way off at sea. 66 Coming either from the north or west, the surest way to sail over Astrabad bar into the bay, is to bring the lower point of land on the west side to bear S W at one mile and a half distance. In calm weather it just appears above the water, and when there is any sea, the breakers are visible: steering in SSE southerly till that spit of sand bears due west, then steering S and S by W you may anchor about a mile to the westward of the entrance of the river Korgan; but in going into Kandagasar road, it is necessary to observe a spit of sand which runs about half a mile from the mouth of that river. The bar has 11 or 12 feet water, with hard sand for about a mile, then deepens to three and a half and four fathoms, with a bottom of soft clay. If the weather prevents the sight either of the spit of sand, or breakers on the west side of the bar, run within a mile of the east main, which is easy to be seen, steering in S and S by W you will find the same depth all over the bay, which is from two to four fathoms water, in the spring and fall of the year. There is a small low island covered with reeds, which appears to the NE of Astrabad bar, very near the east main; there are not above five feet water round it; but a league to the westward are two fathoms. "The distance from the bar of Astrabad to the south end of the island Ogrujinskor, or, as the Persians call it, Idak, is 32 leagues, steering NW by N half N. The deepest water in that tract is from seven to ten fathoms, soft ground; but 10 leagues to sea there are 35 fathoms water, deepening gradually. The channel between the nort end of Idak and the west of Deverish is near a mile and a half wide, with three or four fathoms water; the north end of Idak lies under water, and is terminated by an eminence, which appears like an island. Between the east end of Deverish and Naphtonia, there is another channel, which is very narrow. You have good shelter between Naphtonia and Ogrujinskoi, either from the north-east or west, with the advantage of putting out to sea with any wind. best water is close to the island Dargan, where there is clean ground; but the north side of it is stony. Dagadaw is a little high island, about two cables length from the north main, and full two fathoms water round it; the anchorage is so secure, that the ship might be moored to the island, and a stage built from her on shore. A little way from this island there are two large rocks above water; three or four leagues further you have but nine feet water, and at the foot of the mountain only five. The points on the north side of the entrance of this lake consist of high red cliffs, which form a sand or gravel of the same colour washed from it, and from thence it is called Krasma-woda. Within * Which in Russian signifies red water. The that |