Oldalképek
PDF
ePub

sich means 25 in England they would be- cnlarged and improved. It is not easy gio upon.

to esplain the cause of this enlargement This, however, all tends to make the and improvenent; there is no question people, if not respectabic, a least pica3"n?, ! that the travle of the city has declined.com which time lesh may he said empatienliy Bedfast and C'ork have possessed themselves toy be. Ir society there is tesz coliness of a part of what did once belong to the and reserve anal hunder than in England. 'capital; and minor sea-ports now corre L!! us here be underctrod 10 peak or the , spond direitły with London and Liverpool, middle clases; among wrich, in every and the foreign ports, with all of which ountry, the nationi ekracter and press they used formerly to have nothing to do liarities are most visible. Tie per ranks but to get commodities from the Dublin in Ireland, ibe great proprietors and nuk“. merchant. This is not a consequence of the anch the 110 as individuals holding Onion, but of the progress of trade, and rile-sa ne station amongst tis. On enter- gcneral advancement of the country.--ing society in Dublin, a stranger will it? I There are in Dublin no houses vacantmuch struck by the animation of the party; , none of the mansions of the nobility havo the absence of 6 were going to write : gone to ruin ; some have fallen into the amuraiz-honte; the haste which individuais il bian bands of opulent lawyers and mer. made to commit semselves, as it is terired; chants; many are converted into public the freedom with wbich every man gives institutions and schools, and a great prohús sentiment; ani, to speak tire truth, the portion into hotels. By this transition the Trump abiti 111 powers of elocution with inhabitants of Dublin are naturally much which he defends and explains them. affected, and with many a bitter expression

The polities of the inhabitants of Dublin of sorrow they point out to the stranger eru very much provincial; indeed questions the former residences of the various poble immediately affecting the country are suf- families. The Irish are a vain people, and ficiently numerous and important to ore. impressed with a reverence for lords and py attention. But what may be cilaladies of high degree, very different from imperial policy is as little heeded or thought honest burit John Bull's sentiments on of as the approximation of two planets; an that score; and it may be fairly presumed • event probably affecting us, but in a degree that the loss of so much good company is $9 minute, and so remotely, as to orersion fcit as a considerable aggravation of the us scarev a passing thought. There docs solid and substantial injury which the rot prevail in Dublin that general acquair. Union orcasioned the citizens of the Irish tance with the characters of public men, metropolis. or with the state of parties, which we fisid The number of hdtels in Dublin is pre in this city. The press of Dublin is a digious. All the members of parliament, subject too delicate and too much open to going and returning, pass a few days in controversy, for us to enlarge upon; but Dublin: it was formerly a great capital, the we will remark, that the sweeping, slapdash, seat of legislation; it is now a great place diseursive, colloquial style common in the of passage. Dublin is now as great as it newspapers, is very characteristic. The was at the Union; not as great had that writing is, in point of literary merit, greatly Union not taken place. The aversion to inferior to that of the London journals. - the Union, as a measure of policy, has Though newspapers are cheaper in Ireland augmented and maintained that dislike of than here, they have small circulation England, which was once so strong in Ireamong the lower classes in Dublin; nor land, but which is rapidly vanishing. The have we remarked in any of the alchouses highest sense of the value and merit of any newspaper • taken in here,' es is frc. English sobriety, prudence, industry, and quent in London. These people have cer- cxactness, is general; but the coldness and tainly, as their superiors seem to think they reserve of the character is objected to.too have, lost all political weight and con- There is no doubt that the Irish are emusideration. The mechanics and tradesmen lous of our virtues; and it would be well all unite, however else they may differ, in did we resolve to adopt the excellencies of bewailing the Union, which they deem to their temper and good nature. There is have been fatal to Ireland, because injuri- one article, the improvement in respect of pus to them immediately, and to their city. wbich we may condescend to notice, as It is certain, however, that since that mea- (sce Lord Londonderry's speech on the sure, Dublin has been most considerably State of the Nation) one of his Majesty's

ministers vouchsafed to make it the subject | is much squalid misery, but it is more out of grave congratulation to the legislature. of sight and out of the way than in Dublin, . With such an authority, we run no risk of Keeping to the west end of the town here, derogating from our dignity by adverting nothing but opulence presents itself; pento it. tle have the happiness of stating, ury liides itself in remote retreats. But in that within the last fifty years the habits of Dublin he must step warily who desires to the Irish people have improved, in point of avoid the view of wretchedness. It is nos cleanliness, in a degroe almost inconceiv- possible to walk in any direction balf an able. They are still far from that martinet hour without getting among the loathsome purity which we boast ; but except in mi- habitations of the poor. In traversing nor and trivial particulars, the inhabitants Dublin, the stranger will feel with pecuof Dublin are little less cleanly than those liar force the poet's emotion, when, conof London. Most of the hotels are kept in trasting a rural retreat with the city, he vory excellent order. It is true we do says of the former not see the outer steps and window-stones « Here was not mingled in the city's pomp, of that dazzling and Cretan whiteness they of life's extremes, the grandeur and the gloom !" exiuibit in England; but it will be found, that wherever comfort demands that the

The first view of Dublin is prepossessbrush and the scrubbing-block should be, ing; Sackville-street, by which the travelhey have been. In the north of Ireland, ler from Howth enters, is one of the finest strange as it will sound to English cars, streets in Europe; and as he passes through may be found a perfect pattern of cleanli- it, and over Carlisle-bridge, the Post-office ness: the liouses of the people engaged in and the Custom-house are seen, a glimpse the linen manufacture, are many of them of the Courts is obtained, and the Bank as scrupulously and fastidiously neat and and College lie immediately in the way. pure as possible. These remarks, however, But these are almost all that are to be must be confined to the more comfortable seen; and the consequence is, that the first and happy classes of the community. We emotion of a stranger arriving in Dublin, will not speak of the peasantry; but di- is admiration ; and that disappointment recting ourselves alone to the population of succeeds. The Bank was formerly the Dublin, we must say, that it contains a House of Parliament. It is of Grecian large mass of human beings in the most architecture, and for purity and elegance, squalid and wretched condition. An esta- stands, we believe, unrivalled in these isles. blishment for the relief and reception of Its beauty has been somewhat impaired mendicants does exist in Dublin : it is since it fell into the hands of the monied maintained by voluntary subscriptions, gentry. It was surrounded by a series of there being, as our readers are aware, no porticoes, the apt resort of Eloquence and poor-laws in Ireland. But we mean to re- the Muses; but the worthy Directors have ter to a description of individuals who do erected in the interstices between the conot fall properly under the description of lumns, a stout rampart of stone and mor. paupers, or constitute a fit object for alms, tar, thus adding to the security of their wytre speak of the inferior orders of trades- coffers and the spaciousness of the building, people and mechanics. There is a part of however they may have detracted from the Dublin called the Liberty, almost wholly beauty of the architecture. The Exchange inhabited by these persons. St. Giles's, is a handsome building, but unhappily or the most wretched lane of London, is stands at the head of a street of which it splendid compared with it. We are in- does not occupy the centre. A precisely torned that the Farl of Meath, whose pro- similar fault in the site, it may be remarked, perty it is, actually gets no rent; and that injures the effect of the Exchange at Lithe old law dogtrine of General Occupancy verpool. Dublin Castle, the town residence prevails. "The houses are most of them of the Viceroy, is situated upon a hill: ruirous, but having been originally well it is well built, chiefly of stone, and has a built and of good materials, they liold to- very lordly and imposing appearance.gether. The languishing state of the The servant is better lodged than his maswoolen and silk trades in Ireland has liad ter at St. James's. There are two large its effect, but the evil is mainly attributable and handsome quadrangles, in the upper of to the great mischief under which that which a stand of colours is always displayed. country suffers, the sinallness of the recom- The entire of the building is not appropri. . peace of labour. In London, too uicte 'uted to the use of the Lord Lieutenant ;

much of it is occupied by the Public Offi- Ireland, a comfort which does not belong to
ces, the Treasury, the Ordinance Office, the same class in England. We are sur-
the Chief Secretary's Oflice, the Counci prised that the jaunting-car has not been
Cliamver, &c. &c. The apartments are / introduced into use in England. It is not
tandsome, and the audience and presence, well suited to a great town ; but for the
chambers sufficiently spacious. The whole country it'is admirably adapted.
is surrounded by a wall of great height and In regard to the travelling between Dub-
strength. Some parts of the edifice are lin and London, the Holyhead road is a
old. The Birmingham Tower, where the perfect pattern ; and the great bridge now
records are kept, derives its name from Sir crecting over the Menai at Bangor, must
William de Birmingham, one of the early not be passed by without a word. It is a
settlers and deputies.

work of the most magnificent description.
'Ilie ncighbourinood of Dublin 'is very / The span of the arch is 360 feet! It is
defightiul. Both sides of the Bay are : scarcely possible to persuade oneself that
trouded with handsome villas, The' the passage will be safe : and we cannot
mountains of Wicklow occupy the south: answer for what might not have been our
the Phænix Park lies to the west, and be- vulgar scepticism on that point, lad we not
yond it opens the rich county of Kildare. been, in a most piteous voice, assured by
"The Glen of the Downs, the Dargle, the our host, whose little inn at the Ferry will
Devil's Glen, the vale of Obrea, Luggelaw, be deserted when the avenue to the bridge
all the most charming stenery of Wicklow, shall be opened, that there is not the re-
is wlthin a morning's drive of Dublin : on motest ffar (hope we would have said) of
the other side, beyond the park, only a few a failure in the project. Camden, in his
iniles from town, lies Lucan and Celbridge. Britannia, takes notice of an attempt made
'Their vicinity to all these places leads the by Edward the First to throw a bridge
inhabitants of Dublin to inake frequent over the straits, that his army might pass
country excursions; and cach Sunday, by it into Anglesey. The monarch was
every jaded citizen who can muster a horse unsuccessful. How would he wonder at
and car has his wife and children apparel- the feats of Mr. Wyatt, the engineer! Not
led in their gayest attire, and sallies forth certainly, more however, than would the
to enjoy the pure fresh air, and cheer his mariner of his day at a voyage of six hours
sight with the view of the delicious country and a half from Holyhead to Howth.
around him. Every house is deserted im- What a contrast does the expedition and
mediately after breakfast - The service of celerits of the passage of the steam-boat
the Catholic Church is brief; it stays the present to the doubt and difficulty of
eager citizen but a short time, and the the seamen of early times, anxiously strain-
roads about the metropolis present early on ing his eyes to discover, in the dark hori-
the Sunday morning, a concourse of all son, the summit of some headland, by
sexes, ages, and conditions, hurrying to which to conjecture his course !--If the
enjoy themselves. The Irish are particu- homeliness and common-sense nature of
larly fortunate in the possession of their these remarks on the route to Holyhead
jaunting-car, as it is called. It is a vehicle through North Wales, should give um-
drawn by one horse ; the carriage of it is brage to any sentimental reader, who ex-
like that of a gig; the driver sits on a small pected to hear of peaks lost in the clouds,
raised seat behind the horse, and on each of horrific precipices, of eternal snows, of
side, their feet supported by footboards sequestered vales, of goats perched on fear,
covering the wheels, sit two, or sometimes ful crags, of the screaming of eagles, or
three persons, those on one side having their the flight of wild geese, with all the ad-
backs to those on the other. Thus may denda of torrents, and caves, we can only
five, or six, or seven people be carried with recommend, that he visit the place in his
little more inconvenience to a horse than a proper person, and content ourselves with
gig would occasion. This sort of vehicle referring him to the narrative of a journey
is cheap ; it enables people of humble for- to Brundusium, given by the first lyric
tune to move about; it places them nearly poet of the Augustian age. He will find,
on a levelwith the wealthy, in respect of that that strong as is the precedent afforded by
sole remaining article in which the latter en- | Horace's notice of the “ gritty bread" and
joy a real and substantial superiority in the bad water, we have not condescended to
goods of life; and it is perhaps the only in- drop a single hint, that even in Wales,
stance in which the middle class possess, in small mutton is not necessarily delicious,

[ocr errors]

vouth,

in as inuch as it is often young: and that tries. The expediency of an yearly trip A Welsh rabbit, even in Wales, is some

to Normandyor Brittany in summer, in times made of bad cheese.

order to recover from the fatigues of

a London winter, better than among NARRATIVE OF A

the dews and damps of an English camVISIT TO MADAME DE GENLIS. pagne. At last three common-place

At length the day dawned that was topics (which I should have cut very to light me to the boudoir of the far- short, had it not behoved me to folfamed Madanc de Genlis, the most low, in all humility, the lead of my accomplished woman of her age, the elders and betters) gave wayto matter of friend of Egalite, the benefactress of more interest—the oecupations of Ma

the preceptress of Pamela, and dame de Genlis. She mentioned having the adulatress of the powers that be completed the painted herbal, of all the I happened to be exceedingly unwell, plants mentioned in the Bible, which from a lieavy cold caught among the had been her pursuit for ngarly five marbles of the Salle de Sculpture of years. I expressed a wish to see the the Louvre, where I had spent five collection ;- " Je ne l'ai plus ; c'est hours, shivering, admiring, sneczing & le Roi qui l'a“ I observed, perhaps drawing, the day before, when the foolishly enough, “Sa Majeste a du weather was so intensely hot, that every etre bien flattee d'un pareil hommage.' body foretold a thunderstorm, though —,, Il n'a pas ete question d'hommage ; there was not a cloud visible. I got to je le lui ai vendu. Je l'aurais pu venthe Rue de Pigalle, about three o'clock, dre plus cher, si j'avois voulu l'envoyer and was directed to the entre-sol, where chez l'etranger ; mais j'ai mieux aime I found Madame de Genlis sitting on en etre moins bien payec, et le savoir a littered sofa, in great deshabille, and dans la possession du Roi de France : a young lady of pleasing appearance, il me l'a paye mille francs." This apwriting at a little table opposite, which peared to me a very trifling sum for a with her chair, the only one in the series of original paintings, by so celeroom, filled

up

the whole width of the brated a hand. I observed, that the apartment, long, narrow, and lighted British Museum possessed the Insects by one window at the end, in face of of Surinam, painted by Madame Merithe door by which I entered. The an, for which three thousand guineas young lady rose, gave me her chair, had been paid. Madame de Genlis and disappeared ; Madame de Genlis observed, that it was not difficult to also rose, seemed very much discon- paint as well as Madame Merian, and certed at being taken by surprise, made that she had been offered 15,000 me a thousand apologies for receiving francs for the work in question. She me in her study, instead of her salon, told me she had just completed a loand asked me “ what o'clock it was?" tanical work, on rather a fanciful plans I replied, “three." She assured me, La Managerie de Flore, a collection she had thought it was only one. We of portraits of all the flowers that bear coon got into conversation, but the the names of animals—fox-glove, orsubjects were not very interesting.- eille d'ours, patte de grue, &c. &c.The advantages of the climate of France She is now engaged in a work of Emover that of England. The insalubri- blems; (her great talent seems to lie ousness of coal fires. The subject of in elegant and fanciful associations of fuel treated a fond. The facility of sentiment with material objects:) each communication between the two coun- page contains the portrait of a flowers

possessing some property which makes Medor, un homme de rien, whom nos, the subject of the motto, or ame de la body knows. devise; puns on the names of the “ Medor est le vainqueur ! flowers, such as les soucis, les persees, Je n'ai point encor les immortelles, are not admissible

Entendu parler de Medor." A great acquaintance with botany has I had made un mechant pas, mais il enabled Madame de Genlis to chiscov n'y avait pas moyen de reculer, so I er more than 300 specimens of plants, went on talking about Mr. Day and each possessing a peculiarity which Dr. Darwin with steady composure, may be likened to a thought or a sen- though I felt myself color a little, timent. I fear I do not explain clear- which never happens to me a propos ly what I do but half understando- of nothing. We spoke of Madame I did not say to Madame de Gentis de Genlis' own works :- I never praise what Napoleon said to the Persian an author, except by showing, by brief ambassador, when his Eastern Excell- quotations from the least prominent ency began to compliment him in the parts of his book, how attentively. I oriental style, with a long string of have read him, remembering Dr. floral similes.--"tenez :-parlons d'af- Johnson's speech to a lady: “ Mafaires, je n'aime pas beaucoup les dam, consider what your praise is Heurs." I do love flowers very worth, before you cram me with it.” much, but I do not know how to talk I said that I had adopted from the scientifically about them, and am aware Souvenir de Felicie the practice of how easily a practised eye distinguishes committing to paper the account of the silence of ignorance from the silence whatever conversations and events in of modesty, and how unsatisfactory it terested me, without keeping a reguis for those who talk well, to speak on lar journal.

Madame de Genlis obe any subject to an uninitiated audience. served, that such a habit was laudable

We entered the republic of letters and useful, if people kept to truth, not via Dr. Darwin's Loves of the Plants. if they write like Lady who I mentioned some peculiarities of the has filled her book with ridiculous and author's character and habits, which improbable falsehoods, concarning all seemed to amuse Madame de Genlis; the people she mentions ;-" For inand had occasion to name Mr. Day, stance, she has made me say a nunber whom I characterised as a man who of things which I never uttered, and had devoted great talents to the im- for the sake of antithesis; and in order provement of youth" un de vos to make a piquant melange of elegance, confreres, Madame." Madame de hixury, and devotion, she has given an Genlis was as little gratified as Louis account of the room in which I receir. the Fifteenth, when Voltaire ventured ed her, all according to her own firely to say to him, in his box at the Thea- imagination ; she speaks of the ele. tre Français, “ Trajan est-il content?" | gance of my bed-allow meto describe With much vivacity of manner, not it to you. There are no curtains, for unmixed with asperity, she demanded, since my childhood I have never slepas “ Comment cela?-je ne le connais with any, nor allowed any of my pupils pas, qu'a-t-il donc ecrit ?"_and seem to do so ; the bedstead is of very or ed as much surprised at being brought dinary mahogany, without any orna. into a parallel with Mr. Day, as ments; the counterpane is of blue Roland le Furieux, when he hears silk, very old and shabby, not torn in. that Angelique has fallen in love with deed, but extremely faded; my rooin

« ElőzőTovább »