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such means a; in England they would be cnlarged and improved.
It is not easy gin upon.
to explain the cause of this enlargement This, however, all tools to make theard improvement; there is no question people, if not respeetalin, * lorst pieszon!, ' that the trade of the city has declined.com victim losn many he said empatienly belirt and Curk liave possessed themselves Oy be. Ir carico lore is ics colliness of a part of what did once belong to the
10 crve ani her thin i: !!despital ; and minor sca-ports now corre L'usiere be understoordo pek ozite : spond diretly with Lond and Liverpool, mida e elaw; ar maz wich, ir. etery and the foreign ports, with all of which
try, the nation characts and methics used touretly to have nothing to do biridies are we visible. Tie permanki but to get rommodities from the Dublin in Ireland, ihe great proricans and 11:02merchant. This is not a consequence of the Touch the selle as individuals lottiin Trion, but of the progress of trade, and tiene station amongst !1s. On enter. i general advancement of the country. ing society in Dublin, a stranger will it There are in Dublin no houses vacant much struck by the arimation of the party; . none of the marsions of the nobility havo Die absence of WC were going to write gone to run ; some bate fallen into the mourrie-hole; the haste which individuris plcbian bands of opulent lawyers and mer. made to commit semselves, as it isterired; Chants; many are converted into public the freedom with which every mm gives institutions and schools, and a great proin: centiment; and to speak the truth, the portion into liotels. By this transition the
i abiti111 powers of elocution with inhabitants of Dulilin are naturally much which he defends and explains them. atlected, and with many a bitter expression
The polities of tre inhabitants of Dublin of sorrow they point out to the stranger
O very much provincial; indeed questions the former residences of the various noble immediately aflicting the country are suf- faruilies. The Irish are a vain people, and ficiently numerous and important to orel-inpressed with a reverence for lords and ps attention. But what may be called ladies of high degree, very different from imperial policy is as little he died or thosht i Rouest Hunt Jolin Bull's sentiments of of as the approximation of ttro planets; in that scere; and it may be fairly presumed · event probably affecting us, bui in a degree that the loss of so much good company is $9 minuts, and so remotely, as to occasion | tcit as a considerable aggravation of the us soarer a passing though. There docs i solid and substantial injury which the not prevail in Dublin that general acquai- ! Union orcasioned the citizens of the Irish tance with the characters of public men, metropolis. or with the state of parties, which we finid The number of hotels in Dublin is pre in this city. The press of Dublin is a digious. All the members of parliament, subject too delicate and too much open to moins and returning, pass a few days in controversy, for us to enlarge upon; but Dublin: it was formerly a great capital, the we will remark, that the sweeping, slapu:h, seat of legislation; it is now a great place diseursive, colloquial style cominon in the of passage.
Dublin is now as great as it newspapers, is very characteristic. The was at the Union; not as great had that writing is, in point of literary merit, greatly Union not taken place. The aversion to interior to that of the London journals.- the Union, as a measure of policy, has Though newspapers are cheaper in Ireland augmented and maintained that dislike of than here, they have small circulation England, which was once so strong in Irearnong the lower classes in Dublin ; nor land, but wbich is rapidly vanishing. The have we remarked in any of the alehouses highest sence of the value and merit of any newspaper ' taken in here,' es is frc- English sobriety, prudence, industry, and quent in London. These people have cer- cxactness, is general; but the coldness and tainly, as their superiors seem to think they reserve of the character is objected to. tov hare, lost all political weight and con- There is no doubt that the Irish are emusideration. The mechanics and tradesmen lous of our virtues; and it would be well all unite, however eise they may differ, in did we resolve to adopt the excellencies of bewailing the Union, which they deem to their temper and good nature. There is have been fatal to Ireland, because injuri- one article, the improvement in respect of ous to them immediately, and to their city. which we may condescend to notice, as It is certain, however, that since that mea- (sce Lord Londonderry's speech on the sure, Dublin has been ruost considerably State of the Nation, one of his Majesty's
rainstors vouclisated to inake it the subject is much squalid inisery, but it is more out oi grave congratulation to the legislature. of sight and out of the way than in Dublin,. With such an authority, we run no risk of Keeping to the west cnd of the town here, durogating from our dignity by adverting nothing but opulence presents itself; pento it. de have the happiness of stating, ury hides itself in remote retreats. But in that within the last fifty years the habits of Dublin he must step warily who desires to the Irish people have improved, in point of avoid the view of wretchedness. It is not cleanliness, in a degree almost inconceive possible to walk in any direction half an able. They are still far from that martinet hour without getting among the loathsome purity which we boast ; but except in mi- liabitations of the poor. In traversing nor and trivial particulars, the inhabitants Dublin, the stranger will feel with pecuof Dublin are little less cleanly than those liar force the poet's emotion, when, conof London. Most of the hotels are kept in | trasting a rural retreat with the city, he *«ry excellent order. It is true we do says of the fornrernoi sce the outer steps and window-stones “ Here was not mingled in the city's pomp, of that dazzling and Cretan whiteness they of life's extremes, the grandeur and the gloom!" exlubit in England; but it will be found, that wherever comfort demands that the
The first view of Dublin is prepossessbrusha and the scrubbing-block should be, ing; Sackville-street, by which the travelhey have been. In the north of Ireland, ler from Hhowth enters, is one of the finest stringe as it will sound to English ears, streets in Europe; and as he passes through may be found a perfect pattern of cleanli- it, and over Carlisle-bridge, the Post-office ness: the houses of the people engaged in and the Custom-louse are seen, a glimpse the linen manufacture, are many of them of the Courts is obtained, and the Bank as scrupulously and fastidiously neat and and College lie immediately in the way. pure as possible. These remarks, however, But these are almost all that are to be must be confined to the more comfortable seen; and the consequence is, that the first and happy classes of the community. We emotion of a stranger arriving in Dublin, will not speak of the peasantry; but di- is admiration, and that disappointment recting ourselves alone to the population of succeeds. The Bank was formerly the Dublin, we must say, that it contains a House of Parliament. It is of Grecian large mass of human beings in the most architecture, and for purity and clegance, squalid and wretched condition. An esta- stands, we believe, unrivalled in these isles. biislupent for the relief and reception of Its beauty has been somewhat impaired mendicanis does exist in Dublin : it is since it fell into the bands of the monied maintained by voluntary subscriptions, gentry. It was surrounded by a series of There being, as our readers are aware, no porticoes, the apt resort of Eloquence and poor-laws in Ireland. But we mean to re- the Muses; but the worthy Directors have ir to a description of individuals who do erected in the interstices between the conot fall properly under the description of lumns, a stout rampart of stone and morpaupers, or constitute a fit object for alms, tar, thus adding to the security of their wire speak of the inferior orders of trades coffers and the spaciousness of the building, people and mechanics. There is a part of however they may have detracted from the Dublin called the Liberty, almost wholly beauty of the architecture. The Exchange indiabited by these persons. St. Giles's, is a handsome building, but unhappily or the most wretched lane of London, is stands at the head of a street of which it splendid compared with it. We are in- does not occupy the centre. A precisely formed that the Earl of Meatli, whose pro- similar fault in the site, it may be remarked, perty it is, actually gets no rent; and that injures the effect of the Exchange at Lithic old law dloofrine of General Occupancy , verpool, Dublin Castle, the town residence prevails. The houses are most of thom of the Viceroy, is situated upon a hill : ruinous, but having been originally well it is well built, chiefly of storc, and lips a built and of good materinls, they hold 10- very lordly and imposing appearance. gether. The langnishing state of the The servant is beiter lodged than his maswovlen and silk trades in Ireland has had ter at St. James's. There are two large its effect, but the evil is inainly attributable and handsome quadranglos, in the upper of to the great mischief under which that which a stand of colours is always displayed. country suffers, tlre sinallness of the recom- The entire of the building is not appropria Pence of ladour, In London, to ticteatud to the use of the Lord Licutenant;
mucı of it is occupied by the Public Ofti- Ireland, a comfort which does not belong to ces, the Treasury, the Ordinance Office, the same class in England. We are surthe Chief Secretary's Oflice, the Counci prited that the jaunting-car has not been Cliamber, &c. &c. The apartments are introduced into use in England. It is not Landsome, and the audience and presence, well suited to a great town ; but for the chambers sufficiently spacious. The whole country it'is admirably adapted. is surrounded by a wall of great height and In regard to the travelling between Dubstrength. Some parts of the edifice are lin and London, the Holyhead road is a old. The Birmingham Tower, where the perfect pattern ; and the great bridge now records are kept, derives its name frem Sir Erecting over the Menai at Bangor, must William de Birmingham, one of the early not be passed by without a word. It is a settlers and deputies.
work of the most magnificent description. The ncighbourhood of Dublin is very Tlie span of the arch is 360 feet! "It is defightíul. Both sides of the Bay are : scarcely possible to persuade oneself that trowded with handsome villas, The 'the passage will be safe : and we cannot mountains of Wicklow occupy the south: answer for what miglit not have been our the Phoenix Park lies to the west, and be- vulgar scepticism on that point, lad we not rond it opens the rich county of Kildare. been, in a inost piteous voice, assured by "The Glen of the Downs, the Dargle, the our host, whose little inn at the Perry will Devil's Glen, the vale of Obrea, Luggelaw, i be descrted when the avenue to the bridge all the most charming scenery of Wicklow, shall be opened, that there is not the reis wlthin a morning's drive of Dublin : on motest ffar (hope we would have said) of the other side, beyond the park, only a few a failure in the project. Camden, in his iniles from town, lies Lucan and Celbridge. Britannia, takes notice of an attempt made Their vicinity to all these places leads the by Edward the first to throw a bridge inhabitants of Dublin to inake frequent over the straits, that his army might pass country excursions ; and cach Sunday, by it into Anglesey. The monarch was every jaded citizen who can muster a horse unsuccessful. How would he wonder at and car has his wife and children apparel- the feats of Mr. Wyatt, the engineer! Not led in their gayest attire, and sallies fortis certainly, more however, than would the to enjoy the pure fresh air, and cheer his mariner of his day at a voyage of six hours sight with the view of the delicious country and a half from Holyhead to Howth.com around him. Every house is deserted im- what a contrast does the expedition and mediately after breakfast - The service of celerity of the passage of the steam-boat the Catholic Church is brief; it stays the present to the doubt and difficulty of eager citizen but a short time, and the the seamen of early times, anxiously strainroads about the metropolis present early on ing his eyes to discover, in the dark horithe Sunday morning, a concourse of all son, the sumınit of some headland, by sexes, ages, and conditions, hurrying to which to conjecture his course ! -If the enjoy themselves. The Irish are particu - homeliness and common-sense nature of larly fortunate in the possession of their these remarks on the route to Holyhead jaunting-car, as it is called. It is a vehicle through North Wales, should give umdrawn by onc horse ; the carriage of it is brage to any sentimental reader, who exlike that of a gig; the driver sits on a small pected to hear of peaks lost in the clouds, raised seat behind the horse, and on each of horrific precipices, of eternal snows, of side, their feet supported by footboards sequestered vales, of goats perched on fear, covering the wheels, sit two, or sometimes ful crags, of the screaming of eagles, or three persons, those on one side having their the flight of wild geese, with all the adbacks to those on the other. Thus may denda of torrents, and caves, we can only five, or six, or seven people be carried with recommend, that lie visit the place in his little more inconvenience to a horse than a proper person, and content ourselves with gig would occasion. This sort of vehicle referring him to the narrative of a journey is cheap ; it enables people of humble for- to Brundusium, given by the first lyric tune to move about; it places them nearly poet of the Augustian age. He will find, on a levelwith the wealthy, in respect of that that strong as is the precedent afforded by sole remaining article in which the latter en- Horace's notice of the “ gritty bread" and joy a real and substantial superiority in the bad water, we have not condescended to "goods of life; and it is perhaps the only in- drop a single hint, that even in Wales, stance in which the middle classe possess, in small mutton is not necessarily delicious,
in as inuch as it is often young: and that tries. The expediency of an yearly trip A Welsh rabbit, even in Wales, is some
to Normandyor Brittany in summer, in tines made of bad cheese.
order to recover from the fatigues of
a London winter, better than among NARRATIVE OF A
the dews and damps of an English camVISIT TO MADAME DE GENLIS. pugne.-At last three common-place
At length the day dawned that was topics (which I should have cut very to light me to the boudoir of the far- short, had it not behoved me to folHamed Madainc de Geulis, the most low, in all humility, the lead of my accomplished woman of her age, the elders and betters gave wayto matter of friend of Egalite, the benefactress of more interest-the oecupations of Mayouth, the preceptress of Pamela, and dame de Genlis. She mentioned having the adulatress of the powers that be completed the painted herbal, of all the I happened to be exceedingly unwell, plants mentioned in the Bible, which fro:n a lieavy cold caught among the had been her pursuit for nearly five marbles of the Salle de Sculpture of years. I expressed a wish to see the the Louvre, where I had spent five collection ;- " Je ne l'ai plus ; c'est hours, shivering, admiring, sneezing & le Roi qui l'a.“ I observed, perhaps drawing, the day before, when the foolishly enough, “Sa Majeste a du weather was so intensely hot, that every etre bien flattee d'un pareil hommage.' body foretold a thunderstorm, though -. Il n'a pas ete question d'hommage; there was not a cloud visible. I got to je le lui ai vendu. "Je l'aurais the Rue de Pigalle, about three o'clock, dre plus cher, si j'avois voulu l'envoyer and was directed to the entre-sol, where chez l'etranger ; mais j'ai mieux aime I found Madame de Genlis sitting on en etre moins bien payee, et le savoir a littered sofa, in great deshabille, and dans la possession du Roi de France ; a young lady of pleasing appearance, il me l'a paye mille francs.” This apwriting at a little table opposite, which peared to me a very trifling sum for a with her chair, the only one in the series of original paintings, by so celeroom, filled
the whole width of the brated a hand. I observed, that the apartment, long, narrow, and lighted British Muscum possessed the Insects hy one window at the end, in face of of Surinam, painted by Madame Merithe door by which I entered. The an, for which three thousand guineas young lady rose, gave me her chair, had been paid. Madame de Genlis and disappeared ; Madame dle Genlis observed, that it was not difficult to also rose, seemed very much discon- paint as well as Madame Merian, and certed at being taken by surprise, made that she had been offered 15,000 me a thousand apologies for receiving francs for the work in question. She me in her study, instead of her salon, told me she haal just completed a boand asked me “ what o'clock it was?" tanical work, on rather a fanciful plans I replied, “ three.” She assured me, La Managerie de Flore, a collection she had thought it was only one. We of portraits of all the flowers that bear soon got into conversation, but the the names of animals-fox-glove, orsubjects were not very interesting.-- eille d'ours, patte de grue, &c. &c.-The advantages of the climate of France She is now engaged in a work of Emover that of England. The insalubri- blems ; (her great talent seems to lie ousness of coal tires. The subject of in elegant and fanciful associations of fuel treated a fond. The facility of sentiment with material objects;) each communication between the two coun- page contains the portrait of a flowers
possessing some property which makes Medor, un humme de rien, whom nos, the subject of the motto, or ame de la body knows. devise ; puns on the names of the
" Medor est le vainqueur ! fowers, such as les soucis, les persees,
Je n'ai point encor les immortelles, are not admissible. Entendu parier de Medor.” A great acquaintance with botany has I had made un mechant pas, mais il enabled Madame de Genlis to discovo n'y avait pas moyen de reculer, so I er more than 300 specimens of plants, went on talking about Mr. Day and each possessing a peculiarity which Dr. Darwin with steady composure, may be likened to a thought or a sen- though I felt myself color a little, timent. I fear I do not explain clear- which never happens to me a propos ly what I do but half understand.-- of nothing. We spoke of Madame I did not say to Madame de Gentis de Genlis' own works :-I never praise what Napoleon said to the Persian | an author, except by showing, by brief ambassador, when his Eastern Excello quotations from the least prominent ency began to compliment him in the parts of his book, how attentively. I oriertal style, with a long string of have read lim, remembering Dr. foral siiniles“tenez:--parlons d'af- Johnson's speech to a lady: “ Mafaires, je n'aime pas beaucoup les dam, consider what your praise is fleurs." I do love flowers very worth, before you cram me with it.” much, but I do not know how to talk I said that I had adopted from the scientifically about them, and am aware Souvenir de Felicie the practice of how easily a practised eve distinguishes committing to paper the account of the silence of ignorance from the silence whatever conversations ad events in of modesty, and how unsatisfactory it terested me, without keeping a regu. is for those who talk well, to speak on lar journal. Madame de Genlis obe any subject to an uninitiated audience. served, that such a habit was laudable
We entered the republic of letters and useful, if people kept to truth, not via Dr. Darwin's Loves of the Plants. if they write like Lady - who I mentioned some peculiarities of the has filled her book with ridiculous and author's character and habits, which improbable falsehoods, concerning all seemed to amuse Madame do Genlis; the people she mentions ;-" For in: and had occasion to name Mr. Day, stance, she has made me say a number whom I characterised as a man who of things which I never uttered, and had devoted great talents to the im- for the sake of antithesis; and in order provement of youth" un de vos to make a piquant melange of elegance, confreres, Madame." Madame de hixury, and devotion, she has given an Genlis was as little gratified as Louis account of the room in which I receirs. the Fifteenth, when Voltaire ventured ed her, all according to her own livels: to say to him, in his box at the Thea- imagination ; she speaks of the ele tre Français, “ Trajan est-il content ?" | gance of my bed-allow meto describe With much vivacity of manner, not it to you. There are no curtains, for unmixed with asperity, she demanded, since my childhood I have never sleps “ Comment cela ?_je ne le connais with any, nor allowed any of my pupils pas, qu'a-t-il donc ecrit?"_and seem- to do so; the bedstead is of very or ed as much surprised at being brought dinary mahogany, without any ornainto a parallel with Mr. Day, as ments; the counterpane is of blue Roland le Furieux, when he hears silk, very old and shabby, not torn inthat Angelique has fallen in love with deed, but extremely faded, my rooin