Four round the Island, commencing at Douglas-Description of that Town and Neighbourhood.

BEFORE I enter on general subjects connected with the present state of the island, I think it may form a very proper ground-work to draw a short sketch of the country itself. The scenery of the Isle of Man, except on the north side, where it is better wooded, has no great beauties: there is nothing to elevate or astonish, and not much to admire the mountains are of too tame a character, and too frequently covered with fog, which, as a native poet says,

"Sits like a night-mare squat on Mona's breast,"

to give pleasure, except to an imagination strongly tinctured with Ossianic scenery; such may here find all the varieties of tint and form that enraptured the mountain bard, but they will still languish for the bolder features of his scenery. The highest elevation rises so gradually, that its effect is lost to the eye; there is hardly a bold or abrupt precipice throughout the whole, except in the rocky scenery round the coast, which can only be surveyed from the sea; the interior is cast in the same mould with its inhabitants, and a sort of quiet mediocrity characterises the whole, The country is intersected by streams, which, though scarcely more than rivulets, serve to diversify the scene; and the water is every where pure and excellent, totally free from the brackish taste usually prevailing in the vicinity of the sea, and, as has been found on experiment, admirably adapted to the use of the manufacturer as well as for domestic purposes.

The course usually pursued by travellers is to make a

tour round the coast, on which all the towns and villages are seated, the interior being chiefly divided into small farms, or abandoned to the undisturbed dominion of heath and gorse. The high roads are tolerably level, and capable, with a little more attention, of being made excellent. The town of Douglas, from various causes, has a preeminence over all the others, both in trade and population, though it is not the seat of government; but as it is the point at which nearly all visitors first arrive, I shall begin my description in that quarter.

The approach to this place by sea presents a most imposing aspect. On turning either of the heads that form the semicircle of the bay, which is of considerable extent, the eye takes in at once a variety of objects calculated to raise fairy hopes of the interior. In the centre stands the free stone palace of the Duke of Athol, called Mona Castle, magnificent from its size, if not from its architectural beauties. The hill behind this mansion is planted and cultivated, so as to draw forth and embellish all its natural advantages, though the space devoted to this purposé, not exceeding five or six acres, bears no proportion to the size of the dwelling. At a short distance is a neat and elegant villa belonging to Colonel Stewart; and in addition to these several modern houses, at different elevations, overhang the bay, and give an air of modest opulence and comfort to the whole. In a recess at the south side rises the town with a handsome pier, and a light-house, of classical elegance, presenting a new proof of the capriciousness of taste in the human mind, these two being planned and erected by the same artist, who built the chaotic mass above-mentioned for the Duke of Athol. The whole bay is two miles across, and is sheltered from all winds except the north-east; both its points are rocky and dangerous, and in the middle is a bed of rocks called "Connister," on which, in the stormy season, many vessels find their de struction.

It is unfortunate when the first glance at a place excites expectations, which every succeeding view must damp and dissipate. Those who arrive at Douglas on a fine day can hardly fail to find the pier covered with groupes of whiterobed damsels, full of gaiety and spirit. They will cast their eyes with delight on the villas which surround or overhang the bay. If the time is evening, they may probably be greeted with the sound of military music from the parade; and the combination must naturally lead them to anticipate an entrance into a Mahometan paradise, peopled with houris. But this lovely vision will only last till they have ascended the stairs opposite to the custom-house; from that moment they must thread their way through a labyrinth of narrow dirty streets, and prepare to encounter the usual variations of dirt and neglect; for certainly nothing can be more inconvenient or disagreeable than the internal arrangement of this town, where the divisions form angles which would defy the skill of the best charioteer of ancient or modern times: no part is flagged, nor is it well lighted, except in the vicinity of the harbour. The whole forms a triangle, the longest side extending from the bridge to the pier; but as the buildings are now rising in every direction, this shape will soon be lost; nor is it indeed e even now so clearly defined as it was a few years back. The pier is in length five hundred and twenty feet, its breadth forty: it is handsomely paved with free stone. At the distance of four hundred feet it suddenly expands fifty feet to the right: this part being raised forms a semicircle to which there is an ascent by a flight of steps. And in the centre of the area is the lighthouse, according to the opinion of nautical men, more to be celebrated for its beauty than utility; being situated considerably within Douglas Head, and so nearly on a level with the town, that its light is often confounded with that of the neighbouring houses.

The harbour is esteemed the best dry one in the Irish

channel, and admits vessels of considerable burthen, at high water, close to the quay. The customhouse is the best building in the town, and conveniently situated for business. It was erected during the prevalence of the contraband trade, by one of those persons who had realized a considerable property in that pursuit; but in the panic following the revestment of the island, he sold it much under its value to the Duke of Athol, by whom it has been devoted to its present use. Till very lately all the houses in Douglas were low and ill-constructed, crowded toge ther without regard to convenience or uniformity; but latterly several new streets have been constructed in the suburbs, well situated for comfort and accommodation, in which the houses combine some degree of elegance in the exterior, with considerable attention to internal convenience.

The act of the legislature, taking away the protection , from foreigners, has been more severely felt in Douglas than in any part of the island, this being the spot generally preferred by visitors of this description; and in consequence many houses are at this time uninhabited, and the shops have lost that animated appearance of business formerly visible in them: but yet as all the imports and most of the exports pass through this port, there is still a considerable trade carried on, and a degree of bustle perceptible on the quay, that keeps hope alive, and leads the inhabitants to look forward to the renewal of past prosperity from some other source. The shops afford a good assortment of articles of necessity and convenience; but it is the practice to mix various branches of trade in one receptacle, particularly linen-drapery, grocery, and hardwares, which is not favourable to the condition of the stock. One of the principal traders in the town of Douglas deals in the following incongruous list of commodities-millinery, mercery, liquors, wines, grocery, linen-drapery, stationary, ironmongery, salt, shoes, tobacco, snuff, brushes, brooms, mops, perfumery, hats, hosiery, herrings, and coals.

The assembly-room is spacious, but neither elegant nor even neat; yet the balls are well attended, and the young people dance to their two fiddles with as much hilarity as if the apartment was illuminated by Grecian lamps, or adorned with velvet hangings. A theatre was erected a few years since; but the encouragement given being insufficient to induce good performers to make even temporary visits, the building has been diverted to other purposes.

Amongst the most promising establishments are a public library and reading room; institutions so necessary to the improvement of society, that they deserve in all places the highest support, and the most careful superintendence; but in this, as in many other instances, too much party spirit prevails, and in consequence the advance has not been equal to the commencement. The president, the committee, and the secretary, have been occupied with private differences, when they should have been debating only on the best means of promoting the good of the society, and therefore the collection of books is neither so large nor so well chosen as it might have been, considering the time which has elapsed since the formation, or the funds subscribed. There is now only one printing-press* in the island, from whence a newspaper issues weekly; but it is the vehicle merely for advertisements. In Douglas is a small chapel dedicated to St. Matthew; but the place of worship most frequented is a new church, a little above the town, which is neatly finished, and where the pews let at a very high rate. The parish church, called Kirk Braddan, is at a distance of two miles. There are, besides. these, a Methodist meeting house, a Presbyterian chapel, and also one for Catholics.

A Lancastrian school, and a house of reception for the poor, ought to be mentioned with praise. Both owe their

* Since writing this, another has been established.