and of cellars, and placed them here." With that, he led me through several other divisions of the factory, which, to the height of several stories, contained a series of apartments dedicated to the same purposes. As we walked along, I took occasion to inquire into some particulars respecting his larger establishment at Portlaw. He had laid out upwards of sixty thousand pounds upon it. There are upwards of thirty-two thousand pieces made in each week. At least one thousand persons derive subsistence and good habits from it. Originally, he employed Englishmen; but he found that the Irish, on being properly instructed, were just as expert. The English had intermarried with the families in the vicinity, and a perfectly good understanding prevailed, which had never been deviated from, except in the instance alluded to in the morning. The strictest morality was preserved, it being a rule to dismiss every girl who was guilty of the slightest impropriety. Drunkenness had been banished; and a school had been established, where no sectarian animosities, no quarrels about the Bible, were allowed to prevail. Here all the children of the factory were instructed in reading, writing, and the elements of arithmetic, and no sort of interference with their religion was attempted. All this detail I elicited from my friend David, to whom I addressed a great variety of questions, which forced him into some expatiation upon himself. He was evidently gratified by the honest applause which he had won from me, and offered to lead me from his factory to his mill. It is situate at the other end of the town, near an old bridge, and occupies a very considerable space. It is, I believe, the finest in Ireland. I felt dizzy at the play of the machinery, that, turned by a broad torrent obtained from the Suir, which rolls upon its enormous wheels, went on with its gigantic labours. Here half the harvest of the adjacent counties, as well as of Tipperary, is powdered under the huge mill-stones that I saw wheeling with incalculable rapidity, and is thence poured into the London markets. Honest David showed me, with some touch of the pride of wealth, this great concern. We ascended flight after flight of stairs to a vast height. On reaching one of the loftiest stages of the building, I saw a young man shoveling the flour with his own hands into a large tube, and covered with its particles."That is my son," said David; "he will teach others, by having first practised his business himself." We ascended to the top. Here, through an aperture in the wall, which was destined for the admission of air, there was an enchanting prospect of the Suir winding through its romantic valley. David expressed himself with admiration of the grandeur of the scene. It struck me, however, that the Quaker's eye, instead of travelling over the remote reaches which led the vision into the far-off recesses of the Galtee mountains, was looking directly down. "Is it not a beautiful river?" he exclaimed: "Has thee ever seen so fine a river?" and all the while he was looking at nothing but the mill-race below. "The Suir," I answered, " is a second Pactolus to you, and, I perceive, it is rolling in golden waves over your wheel." The Quaker smiled. We descended, and in our progress down, I observed a man working very assiduously in driving holes through a sheet of lead. His countenance struck me as peculiar; and noting that I had observed him, the Quaker told me that he was deaf and dumb, but that there was one of the millers who could converse with him by signs. The dragoman was called; and I put various questions, which were conveyed and answered with signs, and I received most satisfactory replies. The deaf and dumb man, I was told, remembered with singular minuteness all that he had ever seen, and was a great politician. In order to put his recollection to the test, I desired the interpreter to ask him if he remembered the Rebellion? After some gesticulation by the former, the dummy started up, and began to writhe his face into grimaces, in which agony and horror were expressed, while he twisted his back, and quivered in every limb, as if he were enduring torture; and while with one hand he touched his shoulders, that mimicked convulsive suffering, with the other he imitated the gesture of a man who was inflicting a flagellation. "That," said the interpreter, "represents Sir Thomas Judkin Fitzgerald." This exhibition was too much associated with the scenes from which I had escaped when

I left the Court-house; and leaving the part of Sir Thomas to be enacted by the deaf and dumb man in my absence, I descended. David Macolmson was so well satisfied by the impression which he had made on me by his factory and his mill, that he suggested I might find a walk to his house, which is situated outside Clonmel, an agreeable one. We proceeded there. The plantations and shrubberies were exceedingly-well laid out, except that there was a touch of citizenship in some of the ornaments. When he showed me "his ruin," which consisted of a pile of rocks raised into the shape of a tower, I was at once reminded of Mr. Stirling. We sat down together in a grotto made of shells, and of all sorts of rarities which could be collected in the vicinity, and which were brought together in a very incongruous assortment. A piece of stone, that looked like the profile of an old woman, seemed to be greatly prized by him. I was not very sorry to lead him from a discussion on the fine arts, to which I found that he was approaching, and I said, “By the by, Mr. Macolmson, I just recollect it-was not Lord Anglesey at your manufactory at Portlaw?" This brought him back, where he was at home. He was excited as much as a Quaker can be by the question, and starting up, broke into a lavish panegyric upon the late Lord-Lieutenant. I availed myself of his ecstacy to effect my retreat from the grotto. As we walked towards the house, David expatiated in the tones and in the phrases of a genuine admiration upon the chivalrous and lofty-minded Marquis. The latter had gone through his whole factory; had inspected every minute arrangement; and finding a proof in what this most meritorious and intelligent person had effected, by the unaided force of his own enterprising spirit, of what might be accomplished in other parts of the country, he had declared David Macolmson to be, what he unquestionably is-a benefactor of Ireland. Discoursing upon the merits of Lord Anglesey, who had succeeded in producing enthusiasm even in the mind of a Quaker, who generally reserves his emotions for the other world, and his calm common-sense for this, we reached the house. Notwithstanding all its elaborate plainness, I every-where observed the lurking indications of luxury, which was only thinly veiled by an ostentatious simplicity. An ancient lady, robed in the richest silks, which were, however, cut out after the fashion of her sect, rose to receive me. I should willingly have tarried longer, but I recollected that it was necessary to return to Court, in order to attend the trial of the Berisokene Police. As I took my leave, the worthy Quaker begged of me to accept a present. He took from the shelf of a bookcase a book, entitled "The Doctrines of Friends, or Principles of the Christian Religion," written by Elisha Bates; and published in the State of Ohio, in America. He wished, he said, to disabuse me of some vulgar notions respecting the religious tenets of Quakers. Accepting the work with thanks, I assured him that I should never be disposed to quarrel with the opinions of a man in whose life the genuine spirit of Christian benevolence was so powerfully exemplified. I passed rapidly through his grounds, and after a few minutes, found myself in the centre of the Court-house, where the Solicitor-General was laying down the law of murder; while Father Spain, sitting at the table immediately opposite, was leaning with his chin upon his hand, and fixing his black Andalusian eye upon him. Placed beside Judge Moore was Otway Cave;-but this article has exceeded its proper limits. I shall return to the subject.

ANECDOTES OF RUSSIA.*

THE scene in returning from the Tartar burial was very different from its beginning; the Tartars laughed, and urged their drivers to the utmost speed of the horses-seeming gratified with the shawls which had become their property, it being a rule to divide those articles which have been wound round the body amongst those who are present at the funeral.

The Emperor had sent orders that the troops returning from the Persian war should be received with honour by the Governor of Moscow, the Prince Galitzin; and he sent some thousands of rubles to be expended in a dinner which these heroes were to enjoy in the covered exercise-house of that capital. These troops had been disgraced in consequence of the active part they had taken in the attempted revolution when the present Emperor mounted the throne; but they had risen again into favour in consequence of their gallant conduct in the East. The regiment made a triumphal entry in November, bearing, amidst other trophies, the supposed throne of Abbas Mirza. Banners, and drums, and trumpets, were exhibited, but the chair, the throne, was the principal object. This chair had been the property of a Russian officer, who had converted it into a very homely article of furniture, having taken out some few jewels which formerly enhanced its value. When the regiment was recalled, and honours were promised to the soldiers, it was thought requisite that some show should accompany the entry; and this once supposed throne, and afterwards chaise percée, was selected, and was borne by a tall hero at the head of the regiment.

I had received an invitation to be present at this ceremony, which was conducted in the following manner. The soldiers were marched at once to the cathedral in the Kremlin, where Te Deum was performed; after which they retired to the Manège, where dinner had been prepared. This magnificent structure is close to the gardens of the Kremlin, and is about six hundred and fifty feet in length, and one hundred in breadth; its roof is supported by the walls alone, without any central stanchion, so that the interior is one open space of very considerable extent. A long table ran from one end to the other, covered with all kinds of solids, quass and wine: about one thousand sat down to dinner, and every one had an order dangling to his button: a side-table had been prepared for the Governor, and almost every person, male and female, of any distinction, was present. I had here a good opportunity of remarking the vigilance of the Russian police. A certain prince, who had been suspected of mingling in the proposed revolution in 1824, and with whom I was very intimate, seemed desirous of speaking to some of the soldiers during the dinner, merely, as he told me, to pay a compliment to the regiment in general; but no sooner did he advance to speak to a soldier, than he found a very active little police officer listening on the other side. He retired for the moment, but, willing to be assured that he was still suspected of some underhand proceeding, he advanced to another part of the table: his shadow could not have been a more faithful attendant on a sun-shiny day than the police officer; wherever he went, there was his companion; and in disgust he remarked to me the

• Continued from p. 313.

absurdity of such conduct," as if," said the prince, with a most bitter smile," as if I should be such a blockhead as to hatch treason before at least two thousand people."

The dinner being finished, the governor gave the health of the Emperor, which was received with loud acclamations: it seemed an endeavour to make the loudest hurrah, and many of the noblemen who were then present, and who wished any thing else than the realization of the toast, roared most manfully. The whole company standing, all adorned with orders of more or less brilliancy, the ladies in splendid dresses, the different costumes, the noise, and the place itself, contributed to render the scene exceedingly grand and interesting.

In the evening a ball was given by the governor. In Russia the dance is opened by a Polonaise, the most silly performance imaginable, in which old and young alike join. It is merely walking with a lady through the entire suite of apartments, to the great annoyance of the card-players and loiterers. After this nonsensical parade is finished, a Majoolka is generally commenced. This dance, which is voted very uninteresting by some travellers,* is certainly just the contrary to the performers, who have, during the dance, a better opportunity of showing a preference and whispering the tender tale than in any other in existence. In general the ladies have chairs placed in a circle, and the partner either stands by her side, or behind her should he not have the object of his affection for his partner, he has only to whisper to one of his sisters, or friends in the dance, to lead him to his favourite, with whom he can then exhibit. As this continues sometimes two hours, the lover has an opportunity which is quite impossible in a quadrille, or countrydance. The ladies are likewise able to select their favourites; and often have I watched them passing a crowd of lookers on, to select the p articular object. The music is in general very lively, and the Russians certainly prefer the Majoolka to any other dance. If balls are requisite to create marriages, this dance would be a grand acquisition in England; and the Duke of Devonshire, as he took lessons in Moscow, might begin the fashion.

The supper afforded a great display of good things and brilliant company. The table was covered with bonbons, fruit, &c. and the dishes were handed round one at a time, as in Russian dinners. This could not be done without a great number of servants. I counted at the table at which I sat, no less than fourteen attendants, although we were only twelve in number. By my side sat the prince above-mentioned, and next to him his favourite police attendant; the former gave me a hint not to indulge in liberal politics. At this supper was served one of the largest sterlets which had been caught during the season. Although all travellers have spoken favourably of this fish, yet I neither admire its taste nor appearance: from the female sterlet the caviar is procured, and this should be eaten perfectly fresh to be properly appreciated. Dancing commenced after supper again; quadrilles, waltzes, and gallopades were continued until about four o'clock, when the company retired. A stranger in the first society of Russia would imagine himself in France. The Russian ladies dress, walk, and dance very much in the manner of the French; they are, generally speaking, lively, inter

Ancelot, L'Hermite en Russie.

esting, and, in a certain degree, accomplished; they are mostly conversant in two or three languages besides their own, but know little enough about other countries. I remember a very pretty little princess groaning to me over the lamentable state of female society in England. "The men," she said, "go early to hunt; they run afterwards to the Parliament, and then sit down and get drunk until midnight. The eldest sons monopolize all the fortune, and the younger branches wander about like our Bohemians. The women have no society but their own, and the men no feeling for the softer sex!" It is but fair to say this misinformed lady had never visited England, and, perhaps, got this account from the Prince V-lk-nsky, who had travelled through this country at the time the Allied Sovereigns visited it. The prince, at a large dinner-party, amused the company at the expense of the English nation, in the following scientific and observant manner :-"They are," said he, "a rough, unpolished people, generally boasting of freedom they know not how to enjoy; and I never could find in what it consisted their houses are cold and uncomfortable; the walls are very thin, and the wind whistles through the rooms as it does through a hedge: they have no stoves, no double windows, and few servants; in short, the only thing worth seeing in England is Harlequin!' and what I most admired was a 'mince-pie!" " My friend the prince had profited little by his travels. Before his departure from Moscow, he invited me to a parting dinner; but, as his princess was rather unwell, the dinner was to take place at a French restaurateur's, named Yard. We met at the appointed time, but at the conclusion of the dinner, I was surprised to see the bill exhibited. The prince quietly paid his portion, which, after much labour and waste of paper and pencil, he calculated, and then passed it to me for my proportion. This is by no means intended to reflect upon the general hospitable character of the Russians, nor on their manners; there are many who would be ornaments to any court in the world, many very cultivated and scientific minds, and many elegant and agreeable men. When Clarke made the following remark, he was quite in extremes :-"They are all, high and low, rich and poor, alike servile to superiors; haughty and cruel to their dependents; ignorant, superstitious, cunning, brutal, barbarous, dirty, mean. Although Clarke's work is the best ever published on Russia, it must be admitted that his remarks on the nobles seem to have been embittered by some great disappointment. The highest class now are very different from the above picture; although the men in general exhibit best in trifling conversation, and the women must not be looked at with too searching an eye. At the ball above-mentioned, the straps of a young lady's stays were visible in spite of the dress, and I solemnly declare they were nearly as black as a boot. I remarked it to my partner, who said, smilingly, that the Russian women looked best at a distance, and that they never paid sufficient attention to their under-garments: this I can attest. I saw one, and it would have disgraced the dirtiest woman who walks the streets in England. Even the balls, so frequently resorted to, do not much conduce to great cleanliness, because the same garments are generally continued. The lower class of Russians always continue one sheep-skin throughout the whole winter;

Clarke's Russia, vol. i. p. 46.

Nov.-VOL. XXVI. NO. CVII.

2 F