494 FORT Walk through the Highlands. WALK THROUGH THE HIGHLANDS. (Continued from page 314.) ORT William we found very neat, though some part of it was under repair. A former tourist, I think, remarks that it bears a striking resemblance to one of the colleges at Oxford or Cambridge, and that, if he could only have seen one square cap, or a gown, he should have fancied himself in the confines of Alma Mater. Its appearance is certainly very academical; and at this time particularly, for all the pride, pomp, and circumstance of war were absent, there not being ten soldiers in the garrison. The cannon frown horribly through a sort of embattled wall of green and verdant turf, and they form a strong contrast to the daisies and smiling wild flowers which flourish immediately beneath them. We now procured ponies, (and seldom have two such Rozinantes presented themselves even to the greatest travellers,) and, after a dreary ride of many miles, altogether without interest, arrived at Letter Findlay. In our ride we had passed over High Bridge, and very near to the Parallel Roads. Letter Findlay is on Loch Lochy, and the situation of the inn dreary and forbidding in the extreme. The lake looked cold and cheerless, and our room dungeon-like. The influence of climate was indeed very considerable, and we no longer wondered at Scotch faces being almost universally gloomy and desponding. We were glad to resume our march. We walked by the side of the Loch, but its shores did not possess much interest, and the only object which arrested our attention for some miles, was a poor daft woman, squatting amongst the pebbles at the very edge of the waves, singing, and fantastically amusing herself, apparently by numbering the heap of stones which she had collected in her hands. We did not disturb her in her account. We now passed by a few huts, and every thing appeared suddenly to assume a busier aspect, for we arrived at a spot where a considerable number of men were at work, digging the Caledonian Canal. There were here two roads, running on opposite sides of the Loch; we took the East side. This road was somewhat further about, but appeared to be better, and much more pleasant than the old one opposite. We shortly arrived at a sort of obelisk, [Dec. newly erected, and commemorating the dire infliction of feudal justice on certain murderers of the Kippock family. The monument was over a spring, called the Well of Heads, and had on it a long inscription in English, Gaelic, French, and Latin, detailing very minutely all the horrid particulars. The taste both of the pillar, and its inscription, was questionable. Some distance onwards are the remains of a fine old castle, still habitable, and environed by large plantations, which gave an air of great cheerfulness to this part of the country. The road, too, was most excellent, and we en joyed our walk to Fort Augustus greatly. Fort Augustus is even more like a college than Fort William; the apartments for the officers and soldiers, though in a most retired situation, yet bearing an appearance of the greatest possible comfort. I walked about the Court under the guidance of a sergeant of the 42nd, who was very communicative and well-informed. He had spent the greater part of his life abroad, and had been in the 42nd five-andtwenty years. In this regiment, according to his own account, there were not half a dozen men of equal standing with himself. He informed me that the Fort could accommodate three hundred men, but that at present it contained only fourteen privates and one officer. A small party of the 78th was expected in that morning. We left the inn about eleven. The road extended round the head of Loch Ness, and was good, though very steep; the country presenting many fine views, a noble expanse of water, with towering and picturesque hills. At this spot we were saluted by the drums and fifes of the detachment now entering the town, and never did martial symphonies sound more pleasingly. We had heard no music for a very long interval, excepting the yelling pibroch at Staffa, and the still more dissonant vox humana of the islanders ; the sounds came wafted to us over hill and dale, and across the waters of the lake, and I listened to it with the liveliest emotions. Our exhilaration was never greater than on the present occasion. The air was serene and pure, and, after our confinement in dark and smoky cribs, invigorating and delightful: "Oh! there is sweetness in the mountain air, And Life, that bloated ease can never hope to share." 1830.] Walk through the Highlands. Our way now became dreary and uninteresting. A length of road was before us, straight and undeviating, with hills on each side it, but somewhat removed. Yet, now and then, a view of a cheerful spot, with wood and water, would break in upon the sameness of the scene, and greatly relieve the eye by its variety. Near a bridge, on our right, was a very fine fall, whose water, soon after its descent, is wonderfully placid, smooth, and black as ink. Shortly after this it is again disturbed by a small descent, as well as by the huge stones in the course of the river, and foams along with redoubled violence. A little onwards, in the neighbourhood of the Fall of Fyers, the rocks assume an appearance of remarkable wildness and magnificence. Here there are two Falls, the first fine, the latter truly splendid. Leaving the road, it is necessary to descend a narrow, steep, and winding path, leading through a sort of copse, nearly to the water's edge, from whence the grandeur of the Fall is very remarkably increased. Our admiration of this boast of the Highlands, looking up to it from the lowermost point, was extreme. The principal current, though narrow, has yet a very considerable body of water, and which falls perpendicularly, according to the information of our guide, 215 feet. The whole sheet of water was white and silvery, unlike any we had before seen, and totally without that yesty, or treacly appearance, so observable in the lesser Fall, as well as in those of the Clyde. The spray was very great, and we stood wetted as with a continual shower. A most brilliant rainbow was thrown over the yawning chasm below, the colours beautifully vivid, and the whole was one scene of astonishing magnificence. The woods and rocks corresponded in grandeur with the Fall it self, and one glance at this assemblage would have amply repaid us for all our toils. Near the Fall is also a cave, commonly visited, but presenting nothing very remarkable. a Ascending to the road, we had partial view of the mansion inhabited by Fraser of Fyers, in a beautiful and most romantic situation. The Loch, and its hanging woods, were here extremely fine, and continued equally so for a very considerable distance. We reached General's Hut at half-past five. Here we were again amused 495 with an Album; and amongst many eloquent memorials was one from General Dumourier, stating his satisfaction at the attention and hospitality of the landlord, and ending his eulogium with a most animated and flourishing "Vive la Republique !" From this spot the road is uncommonly pleasant, smooth, and shaded on each side by thick hazels. Under their branches flourished, in abundance, the most beautiful fungi I great ever noticed, of the most vivid red, spotted with small white excrescences. The nuts and wild raspberries were also abundant. We passed by a sort of chapel, or burial-ground, on our left, exactly opposite to a neat and substantial house, commanding a view of the Loch, and in a good situation, but in whose architecture there did not appear to be any ancient display of taste. Indeed, the houses generally through the Highlands disappointed me in this tions most beautiful and romantic, carespect. Many of them are in situapable of every ornament, but which, in themselves, are mere cottages of whitewash, and in every respect falling short of what we might fancy to be the residences of Highland chieftains. The scenery had continued for a length of way extremely beautiful. We had a fine view of the Loch, and hills, covered with the noblest woods, rising on each side from its shores. At length it assumed very much the appearance of a salt water lake, its waves being of considerable magnitude, and much troubled, with long parallel lines of foam, as if in the direction of hidden rocks or sand banks. On the opposite side of the Loch is an old and very picturesque building, the remains, probably, of some religious edifice. The country became still more interesting, the woods of hazel more thick, and the neighhourhood approaching Inverness more populous. We passed within sight of the mansion of Fraser Tytler, Lord Woodhouslie, in a fine situation, and surrounded by most extensive woods. To the right, also, were dark pine woods, extending the whole of the way to Inverness. There was now a sort of London road, broad and good; its sides, here and there, adorned by neat white cottages, breathing an air of comfort to which we had long been of England. strangers. We were strongly reminded We passed by rich meadows and corn fields, the former fertilized 496 Walk through the Highlands. by the Water of Ness, which is here a shallow but extremely rapid stream, and the whole district wore an appearance of cheerfulness and hilarity. The barley was in sheaf, and seemed abundant. As we entered Inverness the inhabitants were returning from kirk, and both men and women bore the most primitive appearance. The old men with their bonnets and staves, -the gude wives with their gay and plaided cloaks, the maidens, with their snooded tresses, powerfully arrested our attention; and our garb and general appearance seemed to cause equal astonishment to them. We marched into Bennett's Hotel at four, and found it worthy of all commendation. Pedestrians as we were, we were treated like princes; and we noted it down as the very best quarters it had ever been our good fortune to enter. Inverness, throughout its whole extent, has an appearance of the greatest neatness and comfort. Some of the buildings, such as the Town Hall, and the principal church, are upon a large scale, handsome and highly ornamental. We also noticed the large school-room, in which, I believe, is a tolerable library. But the greatest ornament to the town is its bridge, over the Water of Ness; at this place broad and handsome, and dividing the town into two parts. With this inspection we were much gratified, and regretted that our sojourn was to be so short. In the evening we had a most delightful walk through the corn-fields leading to the Caledonian Canal, which we crossed, and arrived at the foot of the celebrated hill Craig Phadric. This we meant to have ascended for the purpose of inspecting the vitrified forts to be found on its brow. But the shades of evening were fast gathering around; and we were compelled to relinquish the attempt. From Inverness homewards there are comparatively few objects of curiosity; we therefore took a carriage. The weather was delightful, the roads good, and the country exceedingly pleasant. In the distance Fort George is visible. Soon after this the road becomes dreary and uninteresting; nothing but heath and mountain; but we pleased ourselves not a little by our now luxurious mode of travelling, and arrived at Aviemore Inn to dinner at five. After the usual rest, we proceeded a twelve or fifteen mile stage to the next inn, Pitmain. [Dec. ; Next day we proceeded to the Falls of Bruars. Close adjoining is a cottage, the inhabitants of which have the keys of the walks, and act as guides to strangers. The grounds are adorned by two or three moss-houses, from whose windows the Falls appear to advantage. In one of them we were shown the verses of Burns, wherein he complains to the Duke that the Falls are bare of trees, and neglected, though worthy of a better fate. The appeal very deservedly met with success and the banks of Bruars were instantly shaded with trees, which do not, however, appear very flourishing. Indeed, the whole place even now wears an aspect of neglect. The road onwards increased continually in interest; the hills became well wooded and picturesque; the ground on each side rising into the most agreeable undulations; and finally we came in view of Blair Atholl. While the horses were baiting, we wandered, by the pale moon, under the deep dark shade of the venerable trees, in every direction ornamenting the park; while the far-off landscape seemed to us almost a scene of enchantment. With the appearance of the house we were disappointed; particularly when we called to mind the sieges and the battles which it had witnessed. It is now considerably and not very tastefully modernized, and glared through the moonlight an unsightly and uninteresting mass of white-wash. It was at this time under repair, and closed to the public. The surrounding country is truly beautiful, the hills superb, and covered with wood to an immense extent. Immediately on quitting the village of Blair, we passed under an arch which crossed the road; the lofty and tufted trees cast around a solemn and chequered shade, and I shall ever remember the pleasure the scene afforded me. Pass of Killicrankie, further on, has been much altered in appearance within a few years, from the plantations and improvements of the Duke of Atholl. It is extremely narrow, rising on the left into lofty hills, crowned with trees to their very summits, and exhibiting a most pleasing and noble appearance. Below, on the right, was the noble river Tay, its banks also clothed with wood. Altogether, the scenery is most magnificent, and our ride delighted us. (To be continued.) The |