ful dome, which is coated with tin-plate, like the public edifices at Albany, and this, on a bright day, reflects the sun so powerfully, as to give it the dazzling brightness of plated silver. A large and imposing hotel, with a lofty Ionic portico, faces the road also; and these, with other buildings rising around them, give to Fonda an air of great promise and prosperity.

Beyond this, at distances of only four or five miles apart, we passed several rising villages; among others, Palatine Bridge and Fort Plain, until we reached the spot called "The Little Falls," which

is about sixty miles from Schenectady, the point of our departure. The chain of the Catsberg hills crosses the Mohawk here from north to south; and the bursting of this rocky barrier, with the corresponding declivity in the stream, occasion those

descents and rapids which here constitute the "Little Falls." The spot is romantic in scenery, and would furnish many striking pictures; though in some parts the valley is so narrow, that the river, the stage route, and the rail-road, all run side by side, separated only a few feet from each other; while a perpendicular wall of cliff on the north, and broken masses of rock on the south, hem in the whole on either side, the breadth from rock to rock being apparently less than a hundred yards.

It is on the highest part of this broken and rocky descent that the village called "The Little Falls" is seated; and the situation is chiefly chosen for the facility it affords to establish corn-mills, saw-mills, and other establishments requiring the aid of waterpower, which is here very considerable, and completely under control. Already there are upwards of 3,000 inhabitants at this place, and hundreds come to add to their numbers every year-attracted by the excellence of its position for trade and manufactures; with a rich and fertile country all round it, and a canal on either hand, to send its productions east or west, as they may be required. As the descent is here about forty feet in a mile, there are five locks on the Erie canal, and eight locks on the one that preceded it in this place; both, however, being now connected by an aqueduct crossing over the river, of the length of 184 feet.

The great charm of the spot to the traveller is, however, the romantically beautiful combinations of scenery with which it abounds-massive rock, running water, fertile fields, rich orchards, wild woods, beetling cliffs, and soft and verdant plains, all unite

ERIE CANAL LITTLE FALLS.

475

in composing a succession of the most delightful pictures that the lover of nature could wish to dwell upon.

Beyond this gorge of the hills the valley of the Mohawk begins to expand, and grows wider and wider as you approach to the west; the district being here called the German Flats, no doubt from the Germans being the earliest settlers on these rich alluvial plains. The village of Herkimer is the only one of note in this district, being about seven miles beyond "The Little Falls," and fourteen before you reach Utica. The village contains about 2,000 inhabitants, having a handsome court-house, and some other public buildings, besides about 200 dwellings. A little to the east of it is the stream, on which the celebrated Trenton Falls are situated,

at a distance of about twenty miles. This stream falls into the Mohawk, and is crossed near the point of their junction by a well-built bridge.

From hence to Utica, through the village of Frankfort, the country continues level; but though highly fertile, and well adapted to agriculture or pasture, it is tame after the beauties of the Mohawk valley, which is equal to the loveliest spots in Devonshire or Somerset-resembling in some places the valley of the Tamar in the one, and the vale of Glastonbury in the other, but more beautiful and more romantic than either, as well as more extensive than both united. Altogether it is one of the most enchanting tracts of country through which I have passed for many years; reminding me forcibly of some of the delicious valleys of Persia, but having more grandeur though not more softness than any of these, from the frequent mingling of the wildest with the most luxuriant features of nature. I was indeed so much enraptured with its beauty, that if I had not been restricted to time, I would have willingly returned immediately to re-enjoy its scenery.

We reached Utica about 3 o'clock, having been thus five hours in performing the whole distance of seventyeight miles, or at the average rate of about fifteen miles and a half per hour. We remained here to sleep, and passed the evening with some friends to whom I had letters of introduction; but intending to remain at Utica a week on our return-journey, all examination of the town was reserved till that period.

On the morning of Wednesday, August 8, we left Utica, in an extra, as the regular stage had set out in the middle of the night; and proceeded on by the high turnpike road towards Syracuse, where we

AMERICAN COACHES.

477

intended making our next halt. It is not usual to travel in postchaises in this country, but, in lieu of this, extra-coaches, with nine seats, will be furnished on any part of the road, if the persons engaging them will pay the regular stage-fare for eight passengers. We were fortunate in finding an agreeable party of three persons, which, added to our own, of the same number, enabled us to take an extra between us, and divide the expense; and, in this way the carriage is entirely under the direction of the party occupying it, as to stoppages, hours of setting out, &c.

These coaches, whether stage or extra, are very heavily built, though airy and commodious when the passengers are once seated. The baggage is all carried in a large leather case projecting from behind, and the coaches are painted with very gaudy colours. The horses are large, strong, and good; but the harness is coarse, ill-fitted, and dirty. There is no guard, and no outside passengers; and the coachman, or driver, as he is here universally called, is generally very ill-dressed, though civil, and well qualified for his duty, notwithstanding that he receives no fees whatever from any of the passengers by the way; and it is certainly an agreeable thing for an English traveller to find himself on the road, with his fare paid once for all, without the frequent opening of the coachdoor for the shilling and half-crown, due, by usage, to the coachman and guard, with a certainty of insolent language if it be not readily paid.

The rate of stage-travelling varies between six and eight miles the hour, but is more frequently the former than the latter. The roads are in general wretched, full of deep ruts and elevations, that jolt and shake the traveller to a painful degree; while, in