IN spite of the fickleness with which the goddess Fashion is, not altogether undeservedly, charged, she is, after all, impartial in the distribution of her favours. Of late her decrees have been to the advantage of tall, slight women, to whom full sleeves and wide skirts are decidedly becoming; now, however, there are signs of the tide turning in favour of shorter and plumper figures. In Paris, attenuation as regards the cut of garments seems to be the order of the day, and a return to the clinging skirts and tightly fitting gowns of a few years ago is almost an established fact. In England, changes come more gradually, but the narrowing of skirts to an average width of four yards is significant, while the attenuation of sleeves is even more pronounced; the fulness which was so becoming to the owners of thin arms has retreated upwards to a small puff on the shoulder, beneath which the sleeve fits tightly, or is allowed the slight latitude of being "rucked." In the two tailormade gowns of which we give illustrations the sleeves are set in rather full pleats at the shoulder and fit close from the elbow downwards. Fig. 1 is made in face cloth of one of the fashionable shades of moss green, heliotrope, or Gobelin blue; the coat, which can be worn open over a silk blouse or fastened up the front, has revers and gauntlet cuffs of white kid. Fig. 2 is also in face cloth, and is made with a full, deep basque, showing an undervest of cream brocade, the lapels of the coat being of a dark toned velvet edged with jewelled passementerie.

The fashion in coats and jackets has at present undergone but little change, while capes still hold their own. Coat sleeves, particularly if made of fur, are wide, so as to give room for the under sleeves, and jackets are, as a rule, short, with full basques. Figs. 3 and 4 show an ingenious arrangement for a doublebreasted jacket by means of which it can be worn open or closed. When open, the fronts are buttoned back in the form of a broad box-pleat on either side; when closed, the coat is semifitting and delightfully warm. Figs. 5, 6, 7 and 8 are representative of the best and most practical style of cycling dresses. Figs. 5 and 6 illustrate the correct principle of hanging the skirt, the black pleats falling evenly on either side of the saddle; in some cases this is achieved by a divided skirt arrangement at the back, but careful cutting and placing of the pleats in an ordinary skirt answers the purpose as well and is more graceful for walking. The skirt should be as short as possible, about six inches from the ground being a safe and convenient length. Figs. 7 and 8 exemplify two particularly neat styles, the first with a loosefronted coat, which can be made in serge for winter, and holland or white drill for summer wear, the second with a Norfolk jacket, which is always a becoming garment for cycling, the blouse, in itself invaluable, not looking nearly as well for this purpose as a tight fitting bodice, or one with a basque just meeting the saddle. The skirt in Fig. 8 unbuttons at the sides, so as to give full play to the limbs in pedalling. An axiom to be strongly insisted on for cycling skirts is that they should never be made to fasten at the back, where a placquet hole is most dangerous in mounting; the best method is to open either side for several inches on the hips, and fasten with buttons and a neat flap.

We next turn our attention to evening toilettes, beginning with that most useful and picturesque of garments, the tea-gown. The model in Fig. 9 is effective when composed of

sapphire velvet and old lace, the front being of soft silk of a lighter or contrasting shade; it may also be composed of silk or any light material, with a front of accordion-pleated chiffon. Fig. 10 is an evening bodice, which can be worn with various skirts; the berthe and sleeves are entirely fashioned of softly draped lace, and the deep waistband of folded satin. Fig. 1 shows a theatre or smart day bodice with the fashionable "bolero" jacket made of silk covered with pailletted embroidery over an under-bodice of crêpe de chine. The group consisting of Figs. 12, 13, and 14 illustrates some of the latest modes in ball and dinner-gowns. The first is in black and white broché satin, the short sleeves being formed of flounces of black lace caught high on the shoulders. The central design (Fig. 13) is carried out in ivory satin, trimmed with a narrow edging of sable; the pearl necklace, it will be observed, is worn in the fashionable rope" form, twisted once round the throat and hanging low over the bodice, to which it is caught by a diamond brooch. Fig. 14 may be made in embroidered mousseline de soie or jewelled net over coloured silk, cloudy masses of white chiffon forming the sleeves.

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Fig. 15 represents the sacque "empire" coat, which looks well on a tall, slight figure, and may be made in silk, satin, or fur. In Fig. 16 we have an opera cloak of brocaded satin, cut in gores outlined with fur, gimp, or any other trimming, and edged with a deep silk or chiffon frill, a cravat of the same giving a finish to the high ruffle at the throat. Figs. 17, 18, and 19 offer suggestions with regard to fashions for children, which are now-a-days as varied as those for their elders. The little girl's frock (Fig. 17) is made in the smock style, at once so simple and so pretty for young children, the skirt falling in full pleats from a yoke covered with a lace collarette. Fig. 18 is a neat walking dress, in serge or tweed, for a young girl, while Fig. 19 is a capital greatcoat for a small boy, made in homespun or frieze, with a tr.ple "coachman's cape."

It would be impossible to lay down any hard and fast rules with regard to the millinery of the present day. At no time, perhaps, in the annals of fashion has so much latitude in this respect been allowed to individual taste, so that every woman is able to wear what suits her own style and fancy. Toques are still popular, and to most faces are very becoming. Fig. 20 illustrates one with a crown of jetted net, and a wide Alsatian bow in front, also thickly embroidered with jet, caught down in the centre with a paste buckle fastening two clusters of crimson roses. Fig. 21 is a large "picture" hat in black velvet, with drooping ostrich plumes and an upstanding bow of ribbon; a cache-peigne of yellow roses rests on the hair beneath the brim.

No account of the present fashions would be complete without allusion to the changes in the style of coiffure which have taken place during the last year. Fringes are now at a discount, or at most only represented by a few light curls on the forehead. The hair is worn/ in loose waves, either drawn over the ears as in Fig. 22, or taken back from the forehead in the "Pompadour" style of Figs. 23 and 24, and gathered into a knot or coil low down at the back of the head. Coils are most generally worn in the day-time, but for the evening are often blended with curls and loops as in the elaborate coiffure represented in Fig. 22.

HAVING indicated the tendencies which observers of the latest freaks of Fashion are able to detect in the cut and general effect of the garments to be worn in the near future, it may not be out of place to give a more detailed account of some of the materials, &c., likely to find favour in the coming year. Never, perhaps, have silks of all kinds been more universally worn by ladies of all ages than at present, and those fresh from the looms at the time of writing are of unusual beauty. The fabric will continue to be worn by quite young girls, as it has been during the past year, and for them the delicate chinés, with their tasteful floral designs are charmingly suitable either for day or evening wear. The new autumn and winter manufactures are, however, remarkable for a magnificence which renders them chiefly appropriate for married and elderly ladies. Some of the least elaborate of these display a mingling of chiné and brocade, which is wonderfully effective. In those to be used for ball and dinner gowns, court trains and the like, silk and velvet are richly blended, as, for example, in a lovely specimen lately to be seen at one of the best known London establishments, in which the flowered groundwork was covered with a white brocaded pattern in velours ciselé, this again being outlined in glittering paillettes of iridescent hues. Designs revived from the days of Marie Antoinette still appear to be the source from which the silk weavers draw their inspiration, and very graceful are the characteristic trails of knotted ribbon and posies of quaint flowers, à la Louis Seize, sprinkled over a white or coloured background in which may occasionally be detected the shimmer of a gold or silver thread.

Plain and moiré silks will also be greatly in vogue; the newest production in the latter is the exquisite Moiré Nacré, which is shot and then watered, sometimes in the palest pink and green, with Mother-o'-Pearl like effect, at others in petunia or royal blue blended with black, and many other fashionable tones.

In velvets, the Velours du Nord and Miroir velvet still hold their own. We lately saw an exceedingly handsome mantle of plain black Velours du Nord, made in semi-fitting sacque shape, with sleeves of black matelassé, through the background of which ran a bold design of large bunches of flowers in rich yet harmonious colours. These under tones of colour in black velvets and brocades, are, by the way, one of the newest features in the fashions of the coming year, and very effective they are.

With regard to plain colours, those which are to be most fashionable for the winter are various shades of green, and a peculiarly brilliant red, known as "Danish," which may, perhaps, be most appropriately described as geranium colour, and which is very becoming to brunette complexions. In millinery, touches, and even dashes, of brilliant colour are to be much en évidence; for instance, crimson peony-tinted taffetas ribbon is a material that will be greatly affected by milliners and their clientèle, while sapphire blue, beetroot and fuchsia reds, and the brightest violet are colours we may look to sce largely represented. Jewelled and gold embroidered crowns will be much worn for both hats and bonnets, while some of the newest French models have crowns composed of white kid, worked with elaborate designs in Rhine stones, turquoises, and other imitation gems. Proverb-Il

Tartans are in a fair way to regain their popularity, and figure as entire costumes (for which, as a rule, they look extremely well), and also for waistcoats, ribbons, and linings. One of the latest fashions for lady travellers is a suite consisting of a rug and cape to match, made in some thick, large-patterned tweed, sometimes lined with tartan, the cape having a very high storm collar.

Braiding is once more coming into fashion, and many of the smartest tailor-made gowns are liberally trimmed in this style, especially at the bottom of the skirt; indeed, novelties in skirt garnitures will occupy much of the modiste's attention, as there is a strong feeling in favour of a reversion to the bygone fashion for trimmed skirts. One of the prettiest additions to a plain skirt is a combination of passe-menterie and coloured silk appliqué.

Another revival which is likely to be generally adopted is the style of coat known as the "Robespierre." The back falls in a rather long basque, the front, however, terminating at the waist, and opening, with three buttons on either side, over a waistcoat or full shirt front. Black and coloured velvet, or moiré are the favourite materials for these coats, the fronts being of white, or delicately coloured silk, or even chiffon. A "Robespierre" hat has also made its appearance, or re-appearance; this shape having a rather high crown trimmed with bands of moiré ribbon or velvet, a broad brim, and upstanding group of plumes fastened by a rosette, while another plume drops over the brim.

The reduction in the size of sleeves justifies the prognostication that ere long the whilom discarded jacket will become once more a sine-qua-non in every feminine wardrobe; in fact, premonitory symptoms are by no means wanting of its speedy restitution to the list of fashionable requisites. At present, except when of the strictly tailor-made type for cycling, &c., the jacket is closely akin to that still popular garment, the cape, many of the smartest models being made with a tight-fitting bodice and full cape sleeves, while others have sling sleeves to the elbow, from which a tight-fitting under-sleeve reaches to the wrist, where it is frequently finished by a medieval-looking gauntlet falling half over the hand. Fashions in furs

are undergoing considerable changes. Chinchilla is to be the fur, par excellence, for the present winter, but the blending of two furs is becoming very general. For instance, it is no unusual thing to see a sealskin coat or cape with revers and trimmings of chinchilla, sable, or mink, or an astrachan jacket with a vest of ermine. From Paris comes the fashion of blending fur with lace, and even with artificial flowers, and charming ruffles for theatre and evening wear are thus composed. Narrow fur edgings, too, will find place on many handsome evening dresses, and are specially to be commended in conjunction with rich ivory satin or corded silk.

A feature in the evening dress of the future will be the deep waistbands and stomachers, which are so admirably suited to tall figures, and which, in their rich jewelling and embroidery, give scope for the exercise of much taste and originality, as the designing and embroidering of these effective additions to the costume is fascinating work, which can be undertaken by the wearer le self. news comes apace.

THE object of the present article is to direct attention to the relative merits of the different breeds of poultry which are desirable to keep from a housekeeper's point of view. Poultry may be regarded as valuable either for the production of eggs or chickens for the table, or for both purposes combined. The question is often asked, Which is the most profitable variety of fowl to keep? It is one which admits of no more satisfactory answer than would be one as to the best breed of horse. If eggs are the main desiderata, no breeds of fowl will compete with those which originally came from countries bordering on the Mediterranean, and which have consequently received the names of Spanish, Minorca, Leghorn, Andalusian, &c. All these have a general resemblance. They are characterised by a considerable length of leg, which is always unfeathered, long necks and single, flat, deeply toothed combs, which are upright in the cocks and folded in the hens. They have also white fleshy lobes below the ears, which in some of the breeds have been developed to what may be called a monstrous extent. These birds are all non-sitters, the best layers having been selected for so long a time that the breed has at last lost all tendency to incubate, and their eggs have to be hatched by hens of other varieties.

The SPANISH fowls were formerly first favourites. These are distinguished by their black colour, large white ear lobes, which extend over the whole face of the bird. These points being the characteristics of the breed, when Spanish became exhibition birds they alone were bred for, and everything was sacrificed to them. The white ear lobe was so developed, that in prize specimens it would extend six or seven inches in length by four or more inches in width. The birds were examples of the bad effects of breeding for fancy pointsthey lost in size, stamina, and fertility. They became so useless that many of our agricultural societies left them out of their schedules, and their place as profitable fowls has been taken by the breed known as

Spanish.

MINORCAS, a much more compact, fleshy, productive, and useful fowl, that has been long cultivated by the farmers in the west of England as a prolific egg producer. Minorcas differ from the Spanish also in not having the face

Leghorn.

white, but of the natural red colour, and in the ear lobe being restricted to a moderate size. Farmyard Minorcas, as distinguished from those that are bred in confined spaces for show, are not to be excelled as egg producers. They are nearly equalled in value by what are termed

LEGHORNS, a white breed of the same type which lay a great number of eggs, not, however, as large as those of the Minorca. For show purposes Leghorns have recently been mongrelised by crossing them with game so as to obtain brown Leghorns, and with Cochins to produce a buff variety. Neither of these breeds,

however, furnishes very satisfactory table fowl. They are good to eat for home consumption, but the small amount of meat upon the breast does not render them of any value for the market.

Where the production of chickens for the table is of more importance than the production of eggs, other breeds may be preferred.

DORKINGS have long held in this country high pre-eminence as table fowl, and their

Dorkings.

crosses with cther breeds may be regarded as yielding the best fowls which come to the London markets. They have, however, certain drawbacks. They are generally regarded as not being as hardy as many of the other varieties, and unless they are bred for show purposes it will be found more useful to introduce a Dorking cock into an ordinary poultry-yard than to rear the large pure-bred birds. At the present time it is found that the best results may be obtained by crossing the Dorking with either the old English fighting GAME or with a very distinct breed which is termed the INDIAN GAME. Both the English and the Indian Game are characterised by exceedingly plump breasts. There is much more flesh upon them than upon the breasts of other varieties, and crossed with the Dorking they afford our very finest table fowl. The disadvantage, however, of the Indian Game and its crosses is that they are all of them scanty layers. Endeavours have been made to obviate this by crossing the Indian Game with the large black Asiatic variety known as the

LANGSHAN, the most recently introduced fowl from the far east of Asia, and one which for all practical purposes is far superior to the Cochin or the Brahma. The Langshan is a black fowl with close glossy feathering and, unlike the Cochin or Brahma, with scarcely any useless feathers on the legs. Practically considered it is a much more valuable fowl than either. Feathers consist of dry animal matter, which has to be produced out of the food of the bird. To make a pound of dry feather requires more nourishment than to produce four pounds of flesh, and consequently all the extra feather that is produced every year by a bird is, as far as useful properties are concerned, a wasteful employment of food. Langshans, unlike the Mediterranean breeds, are sitters, hatching their own eggs, and for sitting varieties are exceedingly good layers. They are large and useful for the table and for what may be termed household fowl, but as market fowls they cannot compete with the best breeds. It has been found, however, that by crossing them with the Indian Game much more satisfactory birds for the table may be produced than if they are kept pure.

Cochin.

The ORPINGTON is a mongrel breed that differs but little from the Langshan in its useful properties.

COCHINS and BRAHMAS.These are not to be recommended. The vast amount of feather that they carry can only be produced by a corresponding consumption of P 2

food. They have been bred so long as fancy fowls that they have lost altogether their great fertility and the power of egg production that they formerly possessed. Several new fancy breeds have been developed since the introduction of these Asiatic varieties. One of the latest is a breed termed

WYANDOTTE, which has been derived from the Brahma, but has been crossed with other varieties so as to produce a plumage in which each feather is banded or margined with black, like a mourning envelope. To produce such a variety as this every care is taken to breed from the birds showing the best markings, and the result is that fertility or table properties have been neglected, and the Wyandotte that wins at a show is not that which is the most useful fowl, but the one with the best margined or laced feathers.

breed

The PLYMOUTH ROCK.-Another which is not quite as much in fashion as it was a few years ago was also introduced from America under the name of the Plymouth Rock. In the United States a different variety of table fowl is in general demand from that which is

produced in England. The chief market fowls are what are termed broilers, that is to say | young fowls or well-grown chickens which, after being plucked and drawn, are split down the back, flattened out, and broiled, so that a cooked fowl can be placed on the table within a few minutes after it is ordered. For this mode of cooking, the yellow skin, which is regarded with disfavour in England, is rather appreciated, and hence Plymouth Rocks were greatly in favour in the States. In England they have been found a good hardy fowl for the household. They lay fairly well, incubate their own eggs, and are hardy, but they are not first class table fowl, being deficient in plumpness, and have a coarse yellow skin, derived from the Cochin. This is not likely to be got rid of whilst exhibition birds are required to have brilliant yellow legs. The Plymouth Rock is a cuckoo-coloured fowl, which as a fancy bird is bred for the correctness of the transverse markings on the feathers.

In cases where eggs are required for the household, and at the same time chickens are in

demand for the table, the system of mixed breeding may be followed with advantage. Minorca hens and pullets may be kept as egg producers, and with them an Indian Game or an old-fashioned shortlegged English Game cock may be run. If the eggs of the Minorcas are hatched, some sitting hens being kept for that purpose, very fair table fowl will be produced, the plumpness of chest being derived from the male progenitor. Of course such a method of proceeding necessitates the hatching of some sittings of Minorca eggs every year, when the cockerels may be eaten as chicken and the hens kept for laying purposes. If the cross-bred birds are kept they will be found in almost all cases to be sitters, and consequently not to be as prolific egg producers as the Minorcas from which they were derived.

Supposing again the possession of a mixed mongrel breed of fowls which it is desired to improve. This may be done in various ways. If table fowl are the chief desiderata, the introduction of a Dorking cockerel, or an Indian Game, or an old-fashioned English Game cockerel will be found to effect a very great improvement in the character of the chicken, but in order that this should be effectual all the other cockerels should be got rid of. It not unfrequently happens that in endeavouring to improve the stock of poultry in a domestic yard some useless pet fowl is retained. This is fatal to any improvement whatever in the stock. In an ordinary flock of fowls one male bird is quite sufficient for the fertilization of the eggs. I may now take into consideration the different circumstances under which fowls are kept in small confined runs. This plan is not advantageous, but at the same time is followed by many who are unable to give them a free range. These small runs are usually exceedingly overcrowded, the ground becomes tainted and the birds

Hamburgh.

necessarily diseased. The larger the space that can be given to them, and the fewer that can be kept in a confined run, the better for the health of the fowls, and the more fertile will they be found. No attempt whatever should be made to rear chickens under such conditions. If the birds manage to struggle into maturity they are certain to be weakly bred, are generally diseased, and under all circumstances cannot be expected to be good layers. To make the best of fowls in a confined run the proper plan to adopt is to buy a number of well-bred healthy pullets, bred in a free range, at the end of the year. These, if well fed and of some non-sitting variety, such as Minorcas or Leghorns, may be depended on for laying fairly well during the whole of the next year, when the better plan would be to sell them as mature hens and buy another set of chickens. If the confined run is near a house it will not be found necessary, if eggs only are required, to keep a cock with the hens. They will lay quite as well without, and the annoyance of the crowing is avoided. Fowls in a small run are almost always over-fed. They are given the meat scraps of the house, and become unduly fat internally, when they invariably cease to lay. If the hens are overcrowded the ground becomes tainted, and the hens lose health. From the absence of insect

food they begin to peck each others feathers as they begin to grow, and are charged with blood, and when this habit is once acquired it is impossible to correct it, the only chance being to give the hens a free range. The miserable conditions under which fowls are

Silver Spangled Hamburghs. often kept in suburban gardens in

runs of a few yards square can hardly be regarded as a satisfactory or profitable arrangement. Fowls, if possible, should always have their full liberty, when they provide themselves