Earle of Tyrone, the picture of death (or a skeleton,) sitting on a massive ston, and in the dexter point a castle. And for as much as that Cittie was most trayterouslie sacked or destroyed by Sr Cahere (Sr Charles) O'Dougherty, and hath since bene (as it were) raysed from the dead by the worthy undertakinge of the Honble Cittie of London, in memorie whereof it is henceforth called and knowen by the name of London-Derrie. I have at the request of John Rowley, now first Mayor of that Cittie, and the commonaltie of the same, set forth the same armes wth an addition of a chiefe the armes of London, as here appeareth; and, for a confirmation ther of, I have heere unto set my hand and seale the first of June, 1613.*

"DAN. MOLINEUX, Ulster King."

CHAPTER XIV.

State of the City at the termination of the Siege-Extension of the Town beyond the Walls-Quays and general improvements along the slob of the river-Reservoirs and Aqueduct Lighting the City-Markets-Population— Shipping-Trade-Manufactures-Revenue-Navigation of the Foyle-Salmon Fishery of the Foyle-Lawsuits for the right of possession, between the Bishops and the Irish Society; with the price and quantity of Salmon taken— Conclusion of the second Section of Statistics, commencing with the Plantation—And, finally, the Rebellion of 1798— not any bad consequences in Derry, with the exception of two or three solitary cases-Prosperity of the City then, generally, with the comforts, conviviality, &c. of the inhabitants-Observations on the Union of 1800.

1693 to 1800, and thence to 1847.-From the dilapidated state of the City of Derry at the raising of the Siege, and the exhausted and scanty means of the inhabitants that remained in it, the improvements must thenceforth have progressed slowly. Without the walls, in the immediate vicinity, there were no houses; and within, the number could not, if we may judge from the survey of Pynnar in 1618-9, and from that of Sir Thomas Phillips and Richard Hadsor, Esq. in 1622, have been great.

* Ordnance Survey.

in

It has been asserted that this City has no suburbs ; but instead of which, it claims a liberty surrounding the City every direction, at the distance of three Irish miles from the centre, or Town-house; and the division of the liberty lying on the western side of the Foyle, is known as the "North-West Liberties." The small river (or rather the sewer,) called Mary Blue's burn, passing down through that which was once the slob or bog, as may be seen in Captain Neville's plan, is the boundary of the Island from the townland of Edenballymore and Ballymagowan.* The extension of the town, without the walls, on the north and north-west, has been, in a great measure, limited to the last forty years. In our own recollection, all the district now covered by great James's-street, William-street, Little James's-street, Rossville-street, Abbey-street, Eden-place, and the numerous lanes in that vicinity, was occupied as meadow ground, without a house: and that portion which is now covered with the respectable houses of Sackville-street and Waterloo-place, was partially slob, and the receptacle of filth.At that time, only one cottage was on the strand road leading to the Pennyburn. The whole length of the present spacious entrance from Waterloo-place to Ship-quay-gate, (now called Ship-quay-place,) was so obstructed by the jutting out of the Coward's bastion, saw-pits, and black-smiths' workshops, that there was scarcely room for two carts to pass each other. The area in front of the Commercial Hotel was, at the same time, covered with saw-pits and lumber. The intervening space between the Bridge and Ship-quay, was, with the exception of the old barrack-yard and the lime-yard, but partially reclaimed. There was only one quay or wharf, and that of very limited extent, with another small one constructed of wood: all the space to the north of the quay was a perfect slob. On the arrival of Sir Henry Docwra in 1600, there was no accommodation of any kind for shipping. And under the Plantation, in 1616, the Commissioners sent hither by the Irish Society, pronounced the quay "sufficient for the trade of the place." Shortly after, however, a fagot quay was erected, at the

-" The large town on the face of the hill.”

* Edenballymore,

Ballymagowan,

rather, Ballynagananagh, S

"The townland of the Canons."

expense of £100, near the water-gate. The whole extent in the vicinity of that gate, from the Coward's bastion along the City wall to the Water bastion, and the portion adjoining, lately occupied by the orchard, was at the erection of the rampart, reclaimed from the slob. The privilege granted latterly to the merchants for discharging cargoes, and loading vessels at the temporary wharfs in the rear of their own stores; and the late transfer of property from the old Corporation to private individuals, have stimulated to laudable industry, and the extensive improvements in the lower part of the town: and, we may add, the desire of those who have not been engaged in mercantile pursuits to be less liable to City taxation, has materially contributed to the extension of Edenballymore. Of the other improvements recently made on the southern boundary of the City, we may mention Foyle Road, which takes in an extensive part of the slob of the river, from the Bridge to the Gallowsstrand: this is a retired and pleasant promenade. On the west is Lecky Road, which is a continuation of Rossvillestreet, to the southern extremity of the island. The Waterside, which may be considered the "Birken-head" of Derry, is improving rapidly.*

Previous to the year 1800, the inhabitants of our City were supplied with water from pumps within the Walls, and wells, in the " suburbs," by persons employed to carry it in canns or pitchers. It is now brought from the distance of two miles through reservoirs by an aqueduct which conveys it over the bridge, whence it is lodged in a reservoir in Fountain-street, from which it is dispensed throughout the town. At the time to which we have alluded, the City was lighted throughout with oil in clumsy lamps that cast a dim light. The side-paths of the streets were not flagged. The fish-market was situated in the open street within the City, below Ferry-quay-gate. The potato market was in the middle of Bishop's-street, immediately above the TownHouse. There was no Grain-Market,-no Court-Housethe Assizes were held in the Town-Hall. The Butter-Market, Poultry, and Vegetable-Markets, were held in the Diamond, west of the Town-House. There was, at that time,

*The Public Buildings, Institutions, &c. shall be noticed in due order.

but one Charitable Institution,-the old Poor-House, which occupied the site of the present Fish and Vegetable-Markets: it afforded but wretched accommodation. Previous to 1803, (at which time the Coach from Derry to Dublin, was established,) there was no Mail Coach; and in 1809, the Derry and Belfast Coach commenced to run.

Population. The earliest notice of the population of Derry, is to be found in a letter, dated 22d March, 1603, from James I. to the Earl of Devonshire, then Lord-Lieut. of Ireland; in which letter Derry is represented-" grown to have some good number of inhabitants." From 1622, it does not appear that any regular Census of the inhabitants, (or, at least, any which could be depended on,) was effected, until 1814, when, by the Report of the Irish Society for that year, the population of the City and NorthWest Liberties was computed to be about 14,087 persons, (which number was considered too low,) of whom 4814 were Protestants of different denominations, and 9243 were Roman Catholics.. In 1813, the first authentic Census was commenced by order of the Government, but was not completed till 1821. The number then in the City and in the town generally, surrounding the Walls, (and probably including Edenballymore and the Waterside,) amounted to 9313, of whom 4507 were males, and 4806 were females; 1958 families; 1329 dwelling-houses, inhabited and uninhabited; and the total of the inhabitants for the City and North-West Liberties, 16,971. By the like Census for 1831, the number within the walls was 2121; without the walls, 11,164; and in the rural districts, (North-West Liberties,) 6,335--total 19,620. In 1834, as computed by the Commissioners of Public Instruction, the number amounted to 19,860; and it appears since that, to have been increasing.* In 1841, there were 2516 rateable holdings in the City and Suburbs.

In 1834, the number of English within the Walls was 780; of Irish, 639; of Scotch, 723-total, 2,142. In the same year, the number of English without the Walls was 2,091 of Irish, 6,209; of Scotch, 2,172-total 10,472.

* It has been already stated that, in the year after the Siege, the entire population of the City and the Parish of Templemore, was computed to be about " 1400 comfortable souls."

The number of members of the Established Church within the Walls was 663; of Presbyterians, 790; of Roman Catholics, 689. The number of members of the Established Church without the Walls was 1,909; of Presbyterians. 2,154; of Roman Catholics, 6,409.**

66

Shipping-Previous to the arrival of Sir Henry Docwra in 1600, and for many years after, the port and shipping of Derry were very unimportant, as the trade consisted of a very rude and commercial intercourse." There was no accommodation for vessels of even ordinary dimensions, and the navigation of the river had not been made a subject of inquiry. With the exception of the Currachs, which were vessels of a rude construction, being made up of roughlyhewn timber, covered with hides, and having their seams well secured with grease, no other shipping appears to have visited the port. The disturbed state of the country then, (though thinly peopled,) as well as at other times, interfered with the first steps towards improvement of any kind—in trade and navigation. The vessels conveying Sir Henry Docwra's troops "twice rune on ground," so that he was compelled to land his forces at Culmore, four miles from the port. In 1614, Mr. Springham reported to the Common Council of London, that "the Larke being at the Derrie, I tooke inventory of her furniture and tackle, and had her sold at a price, but goeing for Coleraine, she was stolen away by pirates and souldiers from Portrush, and she is now at Sillie," (Swilly.)

Towards the close of the seventeenth century, Derry had become a place of considerable importance, not only to the community and the neighbouring districts in the way of trade, but to the Government, in the matter of an increasing, Revenue. In 1763, there were upwards of forty vessels belonging to the City, many of which were from 200 to 300 tons' burthen. In 1767, it possessed sixty-seven vessels, containing eleven thousand tons, and in 1768, one single house owned from twelve to twenty vessels. "In 1776," says Postlethwayt, "Londonderry, which is the capital of the County, is the centre of trade for this part of the coun

* Ordnance Survey-Parliamentary Gazetteer of Ireland, 1845. + We understand that a Census is now in progress of being taken, by order of the Irish Society.