CHAPTER XVIII.

LEAVE LEGHORN FOR CIVITA VECCHIA HARBOR — DIFFICULTIES ON OUR WAY DISAPPOINTMENT VOYAGE RESUMED SEE ST. PETER'S AFAR

OFF

PLES
GAN

ISCHIA PROCEDA BAIA, ETC. BRIDGE OF CALIGULA NATHE BAY RENEWED DISAPPOINTMENT SWIMMERS LADY MORVESUVIUS, ETC. — CAPRI AND SUNSET-STROMBOLI AND ÆTNA — CAPE FARO, OR PELORUS - SCYLLA EARTHQUAKE OF 1783 MESSINA MOUNT ÆTNA SYRACUSE

SCENERY OF THE STRAITS

-CAPE PASSARO - MALTA.

RHEGIUM

FROM Leghorn, August 12, seven P. M., our course was directed for Palamjolu light, on the east coast of Elba, lying between that island and Piambino, thence south and east for the inside of the islands of Giglio and Gianuto; then running still south-easterly for Civita Vecchia, where we anchored at seven A. M. the next day.

The town is small and clean-looking, has strong forts built out on a little rocky islet, and an old monastery off at the left serves as a Lazaretto. The small harbor is well protected from the sea by a mole which has two entrances, one at each end. Inside the town is a basin to receive vessels, which was built by Trajan. This is guarded by a strong chain every evening. We took a health-officer on board, and our captain and one of the party landed with the ship-papers. They soon returned, and stated that, owing to a defect in them, we could not be allowed to land until we had performed quarantine, or till the governor had communicated with Rome. The difficulty was that some names had been omitted on the bill of health at Leghorn, so that more persons appeared to be on board than the papers had specified. Mr. Vanderbilt was unwilling to suffer a detention,

DISAPPOINTMENT

SEE ST. PETER'S.

245

and it was supposed that, as we had a Chargé d'Affaires at Naples, our best course was to go direct thither, and trust to his influence to get us admitted to pratique, and then go from Naples to Rome. This prospect kept up our spirits under the cruel disappointment of being so near to the Eternal City, and yet debarred the privilege of visiting the old Mistress of the World. I really did pity the poor ladies' maids, who were Catholics, and our purser, Mr. Keefe, who also was a son of the church, and had letters from his clergy in New York, commending him to sundry of the faithful at Rome. One of the girls burst into a passionate flood of tears, and declared that all which had induced her to come on board was to go to Rome; and now the vexation was too hard for flesh and blood to bear up under with any patience. After laying close into the town for two or three hours, we weighed anchor, and, standing out about three miles, took a line from Cape Linaro to Mount Circello. About three o'clock P. M., we were off the mouths of the Ostia, and, the day being beautifully clear, we had a capital view of St. Peter's. dome and the small cupolas. All our party came on deck, and every glass was in demand. The distance from Rome was, I imagine, about twenty-five miles. So we saw Rome. I have learned to bear with disappointments, and have often seen the happy results which frequently appear from having our anxiouslydesired paths hedged up. We had a fine night upon the sea, and a delicious air.

From Mount Circello we ran across the Gulf of Gaieta, and made for Ischia. This island, with the small one of Procida, forms the north-western shore of the Bay of Naples. Passing Point Antonio, our course lay direct in for Naples. The night was very splendid, and I spent most of its hours on deck, to watch a coast of so much interest and scenery so romantic as now surrounded us.

Ischia is a spot full of wonders, and was once as famous for its volcanic eruptions as Vesuvius is at present. The last great

outbreak was in 1302, when the island was almost desolated. Here are lofty hills, rugged rocks, and barren mountains; but there are many spots of beauty and fertility, where the vine and myrtle flourish, and all the tropical fruits abound. In the centre of Ischia rises Monte San Niccolo, a volcano which once ravaged the island; and from the summit of it the view must be most lovely. A few hermits dwell on this elevated rock, and their cells are cut out of the stone and lava.

The town of Ischia lies about two miles off from Proceda, and a strong castellated fortress, on a precipitous rock, is united to the island by a stone bridge of great length. The ancient name of Ischia was “Inărime,” and its circumference is about sixteen miles. Proceda is about two and a half miles long; the town occupies the shore, and there appeared to be a large number of fine buildings. Sailing on about two and a half miles from the eastern point of Proceda, we came to Point Misenum, the northern boundary of the bay. Here, on a high point, are two watchtowers and a large house. The scenery was very picturesque, and off to the northward there were several large steamers at anchor. We now passed Baia, and saw the ruins of ancient temples, and several apertures from the sea leading through the solid rocks. Near to the shore are the baths of the Cumaan Sibyl. All along the shore from Baia to Pozzuoli, which lies in a bay, the navigation near the shore is rendered dangerous from the ruins of houses and towers which are submerged, and which extend so far from the coast as to reach where seven and eight fathoms water are close to them. Near to the town are the pillared ruins of the mole and the splendid bridge of Caligula, which once reached over to Baia, two and a half miles in length. East, lies the small island of Nisita, which is the quarantine station. To the north of this is a mole, and midway from the island to the land is a steep rock From a point of land on which is a large white building, much like an American hotel,

you get the first view of Naples. Off this spot are vast ruins which lie in the sea, and the towers of other ages now require that the navigator should give them a wide berth. Having turned this point, we came to the Castle del Ovo, upon a rock. Mergillena Point is lined with charming residences, and the shore on to Naples is one unbroken line of villas, palaces and imposing structures. And now before us was the Castle of St. Elmo, and, hard by, the Convent of St. Martino; there was the royal palace and the arsenal, all lying on the noble slope of the hill on which the city stands. As for church domes, I can't pretend to number them, — they were everywhere. A mole is built out before the town, on which is erected a high brick tower, which serves as a light-house.

This city stands where Palopolis and Neapolis formerly stood. Neapolis was desolated by the great eruption of Vesuvius in 79, when the elder Pliny was destroyed. This glorious bay is, I should think, nearly twenty-five miles across from Ischia or Misenum to the opposite shore-perhaps more. As we anchored in the harbor on a lovely Sabbath morning, everything seemed beautiful. Before us lay the city, like a crescent; and off to the right the Villa Reale, well thronged with the Neapolitans; and, turning round, we saw Vesuvius and the road leading off to Pompeii, and off to the left lay the grotto of Posilipo and the tomb of Virgil, while stretching far northward are hills of quiet beauty, with the lofty Apennines forming a back-ground.

The health-officer who boarded us took our papers, and then went on shore to report; and when he returned brought us word that we could not land, owing to the condition of our bill of health. We found that our Chargé d'Affaires had left for America; and, unwilling to stay for a long quarantine, we were once more doomed to be satisfied with the sight of our eyes. From the entire tone and bearing of the official, it was clear that the authorities did not much care to have Americans land there; and we did not seem to have favor in their sight. While at anchor,

boats came off in great numbers, with fruit and vegetables, and a vast number of men came swimming around us. One very good-looking man, with gold spectacles on, and carrying a silk 'umbrella and smoking a cigar, swam from the shore to our yacht,

full one-third of a mile. He trod the water as though on a pavement, and was breast-high out of the waves. Mr. Vanderbilt now determined to try his hand with the English, and ordered our course to be directed for Malta.

We have seen Naples,ay, and seen it in great beauty,— and we have gazed for four or five hours upon the unrivalled shores of her glorious bay. To say that we longed to tread the classic haunts with which our early studies had made us familiar is but what we shall gain credit for. O, it was hard to see and turn away; but then how much had we enjoyed since the dawn of this lovely day!

Well did Lady Morgan remark, in her work on Italy, which I confess I always read with interest: "In the environs of Naples there lies subject-matter for the antiquary, the painter, the naturalist and the philosopher. Its coasts are bathed by the sea of Homer; its lakes and hills afford the topography of Virgil; its vineyards bloom over caves where the Cumaan Sibyl composed her oracles; and every cliff and headland is a history, the register of a crime, or the landmark of an adventure which has made the immortality of him who recorded or him who performed them. The whole of these shores look as if they were etched and painted, the drawing and coloring equally exquisite. The seapieces of Salvator Rosa are recalled at every step."— Vol. III. pp. 155–6.

The ladies had for several days determined upon the ascent of Vesuvius, and had most industriously prepared a general equipment of Bloomer apparel for the occasion. The clothing market fell, upon the news of the Neapolitan embargo, and great bargains might have been made at this moment of depression.

We were fairly moving out past the mole, and every eye was