RIDE TO MR. DELIUS' VILLA AND VINEYARDS. 209 ing its extremities some four or five inches; outside this pin is a layer of three or four strands of half-inch rope, folded around and then twisted together so as to bring it snugly against the backing-pin, and thence separated to run through supports on the collar, and thence to large rings in the breeching, which is of leather, and three inches wide. Our ride out of the city was very pleasant, but we were jolted over the worst road I ever travelled; leaving Welsh ones with a character of comparative goodness. We passed an acqueduct, and here for the first time saw the prickly-pear in its gigantic form, making an impenetrable boundary-hedge. It was now covered with its yellow fruit, which we did not think as palatable as did the urchins of Malaga, who were munching it at every corner. We now realized that we were in a tropical climate, for on every side we saw the agave, or American aloe, and in several instances had the gratification of looking at its towering, spear-like blossom. A ride of about three or four miles brought us to the charming habitation of Edward Delius, Esq., a merchant of Malaga. The name of this estate is, I think, Teutinos. The house is an elegant summer residence, and the grounds were laid out in much taste immediately around it. I perfectly revelled in the show of geraniums, myrtles, ranunculuses and oleanders. At every turn we took in these grounds we met with orange and lemon trees in full blossom, and the fig in several varieties. The vineyard occupies about fifty acres; and here we found the delicious muscatel just ripening, and picked its noble clusters from the scrubby vines. The prospect from these gardens of the city is very fine; and, as the cathedral loomed up in the evening sky, and beyond it were the blue waters of the Mediterranean, and the dark Moorish castle and its battlements frowning over all around, we thought that we could spend more time with our kind host very agreeably; but we were obliged to take leave. In walking to our carriage, I observed 210 MR. CONSUL SMITH HARBOR OF MALAGA. that Mr. Delius had some Durham cattle on his place, and they looked in good condition. On our return, we rode through the Alameda, which is well shaded by fine trees, and under which the pretty women were using their fans most bewitchingly. This spot is adorned with statuary and fountains. We walked through the Zacatin, a sort of bazaar. It has some good shops, and the buildings are supported by columns. We resumed our carriages and drove round the mole, and had a fine view of the vast Moorish castles, Gibralfaro, and the ruins of Alcazaba, which crown the overhanging mountain. The soldiers were just marching up the zig-zag road to relieve guard for the night. The costume of the muleteers, who come into town with mules and asses, and are numerous, is very picturesque. The gay handkerchiefs, and richly-buttoned jackets, and heavy leather leggings, make quite a figure; and Jose Cubero has immortalized them in his capital statuettes. I am sure we all felt indebted to the friendly attentions of Mr. Consul Smith; and it was with reluctance that we were obliged to decline the friendly proposals for our more public entertainment the next day. At about eight o'clock we mustered our party, and, shaking hands with our kind Malaga friends, rowed off to the North Star. No place have I ever seen to which the approach is more impressive. The back-ground of mountains is superb, and the outline of the city at the water-edge is very pleasant. No winter is experienced at this place, and the air is balmy. We all thought that we had never breathed so freely as whilst anchored in this charming harbor; and I really think our sympathies with those who suffer from quarantine will always be abated, in consequence of our delightful recollections of the days of our embargo off Malaga. This harbor can receive four hundred merchantmen and twenty ships-of-the-line, and is accessible in all winds, and affords complete shelter to shipping. CHAPTER XV. OFF FOR LEGHORN · CARTHAGENA · IVICA MAJORCA · MINORCA LEGHORN · COR FREE SCENERY GORGONA PORT-OPERA-SCOTCH FREE CHURCH-SERVICE ON SABBATH STREETS ADMIRABLY PAVED EVENING SERVICE THE PARSONAGE-HOUSE - GOSPEL IN ITALY. AUGUST 2.— At half-past nine P. M., we steamed off for Leghorn; standing out from the light about five miles, and making ›a direct course for Cape de Gat, and running in very close to the Spanish coast. Wednesday, the 3d, we had fine views of the grand and mountainous shores; which, however, under a scorching August sun, looked brown and barren enough. Rounding Cape de Gat, we made for Carthagena, the new Carthage of the Romans. We were off this place in the afternoon. It lies in a deep basin, and is well sheltered, having one of the best harbors of the Mediterranean Sea. We longed to enter, but were obliged to content ourselves with a sight. The population is about thirty thousand. This evening, we saw fifty-three sail at once from our deck, and met two British steamers. Our lightest clothing now came into requisition. We next passed Cape Palos in full sight, with its square tower, and then bore away for the north coast of Ivica, distant about seven miles. All along its shores we observed watch-towers on the chief headlands, and passed a rock which resembled a venerable cathedral. We now bore away for Majorca, and coasted it at a distance of about five miles, having a fine view of its grand shores. The scenery is very romantic; and, from the Drogonera Island light to Cape Formenton, the voyage was one of exquisite enjoyment. The sea was of glassy smoothness, and off to our right ce long succession of ever-changing beauty for about fifty miles. The hills are some of them most tastefully formed, their peaks lancetshaped, and the summits of many are tipped with snow. The slopes of these mountain ranges, which appear to be volcanic, are luxuriant vineyards, and inland the island is very productive; its exports are grapes and oranges. In the evening, late, we passed off Minorca, and saw its lighthouse, on the north-eastern coast. The wind rose during the night, and the 5th was a rough day, the sea quartering upon us, and raking from the Gulf of Lyons. During the night, the ship rolled. In the early morning, we were off the coast of Corsica, made Cape Ridellata, and crossed the Gulf of Fiozenzo. The sun rose gloriously behind the mountains. We then passed Giraglia revolving light, and on close to the small island of Gorgona, so famous for its anchovies. We now made direct line for Leghorn, and anchored in its harbor August 6th, at two P. M. The appearance of this city is fine from the water, and its fortifications and grand Lazaretto give it a very imposing aspect. We were boarded by a health officer, and ordered on shore, where we soon had our passports put in order, and were allowed to land, Mr. Binda, our consul, becoming our security. Here are two large basins, which are shut up at night by a chain and boom, and the entrance is strongly guarded by important fortresses. The mole extends almost a mile seaward, is a favorite promenade, and, running out parallel with the sea, forms the harbor. The lighthouse stands upon a rock, and is a pretty feature in the view of the town. We went immediately to the St. Marco Hotel, kept by Mr. Smith, an Englishman. We found this a very well-conducted establishment, with spacious rooms, and an excellent table. The walls are covered with pictures, and some are quite good ones. After dinner, we walked out, made a few purchases, and found all articles of clothing as cheap as we could desire. This is a free port, and the stores |