RELIQUARY - ALTAR AND BALDAQUIN. 191 poleon Bonaparte till the last trumpet shall sound, and all ranks shall be abolished, and he will stand with the humblest of his subjects before the King eternal-unless the good pleasure of Parisians shall by and by decide upon pulling down what they formerly built up with so much enthusiasm. The Reliquary, or sword-room, is a very elegant apartment, lined with white marble. Directly facing the door stands a marble statue of Napoleon in imperial costume, the sceptre in one hand and a globe in the other. In front of this statue is a pedestal of dark porphyry, from Finland, on which is a rich bronze cushion, where repose the hat which Napoleon wore at Austerlitz, his sword used at that battle, his epaulettes, orders, and a gold crown. On either side is a tripod supporting the flags which are identified with his military exploits. On the walls are recorded the names of battles in which he commanded in person. The pavement of this apartment is inlaid with mosaic medallions, descriptive of imperial power. I think the Altar and Baldaquin exceed in magnificence any work of man that I have ever seen; and, standing before it and looking around upon the entire scene, I feel that all of earthly splendor that this world has witnessed in the monumental art must pale before this sepulchral chef-d'œuvre. Twelve years have been devoted to this national labor, and it is now nearly finished. Our guide was one of the Old Guard who accompanied Napoleon to Elba and St. Helena, and is now the custodian of his tomb. We saw the coffin in a chapel, where it lies in great magnificence, awaiting its final removal. During all my visits to Paris, which have been in June, July, December, January and February, I have been observant of the weather and climate. I have noticed no fogs nor mists. The air is dry, and those who have had a tendency to cough, bronchial irritation, or asthmatical symptoms, are always relieved. In no place have I felt the state of the skin so healthy as in this city. In all cases where invalids visit Paris and find that 192 OVERTURES MADE TO MR. VANDERBILT. they improve, I think they would do well to abide quietly. I have seen bad consequences ensue from not letting well-enough satisfy. We all, as a party, had our health perfectly in Paris; enjoyed every hour of our visit, and left this beautiful city with regret. I ought to mention that our stay in Paris was one of nineteen days. During our abode here several gentlemen and noblemen called on Mr. Vanderbilt, expressing an earnest wish to have him identify himself with a new steam-ship line which the government proposed to open with North, South and Central America. To these overtures, which were urged in the most flattering terms, Mr. Vanderbilt gave no encouragement; but freely communicated his views, and offered the results of his experience. The subject was afterwards revived, and the most pressing invitations to revisit Paris were forwarded to Mr. Vanderbilt at Constantinople, and the first names in France, both civilians and capitalists, were involved in the proposal. And had Mr. Vanderbilt gone abroad with any desire to advance his interests by commercial operations, the opportunities afforded him were as brilliant as a business man could desire. But his aims and objects were strictly private, and personal enjoyment and the happiness of his circle was all he attempted. Having finished our business with Mr. Woodman, the prince of tailors, and Forr, the best shoemaker in Paris, we took the train of cars for Rouen, which is eighty-four miles from Paris. Our route lay on the banks of the Seine, and we passed through Clichy, Colombes, where the queen of Charles I. died in poverty; Poissy, Meulan, Mantes, where William the Conqueror met his death-wound; Rosny, the favorite residence of the great Sully. On our way we noticed some exceedingly fine churches, of apparently an early date. The town of Vernon is a finelooking old place. Every time I pass this road I long to make a sauntering tour along the banks of the Seine. How much I wanted to make a tarry in Andelys, Gaillard, and other sweet ROUEN ITS HISTORY AND SIEGES. 193 spots on the river-side. Elboeuf is a large, flourishing town, with many manufactories of cloth, and around are villas indicative of taste and wealth. The Seine, in all its course, winds through a cultivated valley, and presents at every bend the most picturesque views. Next to Paris, I regard Rouen as the most interesting city in France, and, in some respects, one of the most extraordinary cities of Europe. This place lies on the north bank of the river, across which there is a fine stone bridge, and I believe also a suspension bridge; but I was engaged in noticing the glorious approach to this city, and the show which it presents of its venerable cathedral, and the abbey church of St. Ouen. Ptolemy speaks of this city by the name of Rothomagus. The Romans occupied and fortified it, and remains of their walls are yet to be traced. The Church of Rome claims that Christianity was introduced here by the apostles. Saint Ouen built churches here during his episcopate, in the seventh century. Rollo, the Norwegian, who became Duke of Normandy, was a great benefactor to Rouen. Under his care it grew and flourished. This city was strongly fortified at an early period, and has often been the scene of siege and carnage. Its sieges date in 949, by the Emperor Otho, and Louis IV. of France; in 1204, by Philip Augustus; in 1418, by Henry V., King of England; in 1449, when Charles VII. took it from England; in 1591, by Henry IV. This is quite a place of business, and it has numerous manufactures, which are prosperous. The city is engaged in foreign commerce, and I saw vessels at the quays of three hundred tons. The custom-house is a good building. The population is about one hundred and twenty thousand inhabitants. The narrow streets are thronged with people, and everywhere the hum of cheerful industry was heard. The streets are precisely as they were when Francis I. was in power; and I am carried back to the days of the sixteenth century more really than I ever was before. I feel that I am gazing at the very houses on which |