besides which there are forty Russian churches, and one German church. During our stay in this city a Bible Society was formed.

The 2d and 3d of February we were occupied in preparing provisions for the road, and left Kazan on the Wednesday afternoon. We proceeded only one station that evening, as the darkness of the night, and the badness of the roads, rendered it dangerous to travel, but renewed our journey at four o'clock the following morning. After leaving Kazan we found the weather much colder. On the night of the 5th we remained in our kabitkies, for want of better accommodations; but the severity of the cold would allow none of us to sleep. We now passed through many Tartar villages, most of which were miserable, and the people presented a very different appearance from the Russians; in almost every village, however, there was a Mahommedan temple. Ou the afternoon of the 6th, we arrived at a small town called Malmish, 140 versts from Kazan; and as, by the assistance of the post-master, we found a comfortable room, we thought it advisable to remain there rather than expose ourselves to the rigour of another night. The severity of the cold, and the badness of the roads from Kazan to Malmish, made this part of our journey appear very tedious.

We proceeded on the morning of the 7th, with better roads, but very severe weather. In the evening we halted at a post-house, where we found a small room, in which our wives retired to rest, and we returned to our kabitkies; but the cold was so excessive, that although we were under a shelter, and wrapped up in our warmest clothes, yet we were obliged to rise in the middle of the night, and sit the remainder of it in the room. On the next day, which was the Sabbath, we for the first time reluctantly entered our kabitkies, in order to spend that sacred day in travelling. In the post-houses in which we stop, there is in general but one small room, which is occupied by the man who has the care of the horses, &c. besides which it is open for all travelers; and although we found it possible sometimes to occupy one of these rooms by ourselves during the night, yet by day it was inpracticable. On this account we were several days obliged to travel on the Sabbath. Sometimes, indeed, we found it possible to obtain a room in a private house; but this was not often, as we travelled principally through villages, containing houses of one room only. Yet we hope that we endeavoured to consecrate our different carriages as sanctuaries to God; and although from their violent motion we could read but very little, yet we could raise our supplications

to the throne of the Most High, sing his praises, and converse upon those subjects which were calculated to promote our best interests. From Saturday the 7th, to Thursday the 13th of February, our route lay almost entirely through long woods, with small villages, about twenty versts from each other, at which we stopped to change horses. When we arrived at Perm, our circumstances rendered it necessary to stop a little time in this city; as our luggage kabitky had been broken to pieces by the badness of the roads, we were obliged to purchase a new one, as well as to increase our stock of provisions for the road.

During our stay here we were visited by a Russian brigadier, who waited upon us, and politely invited us to his house, where we found a gentleman who spoke English. We were very kindly received and treated, both by the brigadier, and also by his friend, but were unable to obtain from them any information respecting our object. We found that the latter had been in the Russian naval service, and that among other voyages, he made one to the South Sea Islands. He thought it would be a very difficult thing to convert the Buriats. We told him of the pleasing accounts which had been received from Otaheite; he, however, did not consider them so good; he thought that they had been disturbed by the Europeans, and that they were much happier before they were visited by them! We were informed, that in the government of Perm there are 200 iron mines, 50 copper, two of gold, and one of silver.

Our business in Perm being accomplished, we left that town on Saturday, the 14th, and proceeded till Sabbath morning at two o'clock. We had resolved upon travelling all night, but about this time, Mr. and Mrs. Rahimu were alarmed on account of their little girl, who was much affected by the severe cold; but, by the blessing of God, after taking her into a warm room, she roon recovered, aud sustained no injury. We set off again about eight o'clock, as our circumstances would not suffer us to halt on this holy day, and about twelve arrived at a small town called Koongoor. Here, for the first time, we found difficulty in obtaining horses. In addition to our podorojni (a sort of passport for obtaining horses), which it was necessary to show on every occasion, we produced a special letter from the Minister of the Interior, commanding that we might not meet with the least stoppage: still horses were denied, with the pretence that they had not a sufficient number for us. As we knew this to be a falsehood, we told the postmaster that we had received express com mands, not only from the Minister of the Interior, but from his Imperial Majesty

himself, that if we experienced any uncivil treatment, or unnecessary detention, immediately to write to St. Petersburg, and that as we knew there were horses, if we did not immediately receive them, we should act according to our instructions. This, however, did not produce the desired effect, and we wrote our letters, one to his Excellency the Minister, and another to his Excellency Mr. Papoff, when the post-master, rather than expose himself to the danger of having them sent, immediately caused horses to be brought. Still we had very little reason to complain of uncivil or unkind treatment in our journey; in general all persons were very hospitable and obliging; but in a few solitary instances we were forced to show our authority, and we never found that the Imperial seal and the Minister's name, failed to produce the desired effect. This, of course, was much more pleasant to us than to have been compelled to trouble any of our friends at St. Petersburg.

We now found that we were approaching the celebrated range of mountains which forms a division between Europe and Asia. We were informed at Perin, that although they were, in some parts, very steep, yet that at the place where we should pass them, the ascent and descent would be so gradual as to be imperceptible. This we found to be the case, and when we had crossed them, knew it only from their situation. It was with peculiar feelings that we passed the boundaries of Europe, that enlightened and highly favoured part of the world; but the hope of being instrumental in imparting its light to some far distant tribes, who are sitting in gross darkness, tended to dispel the painful sensations which we began to experience.

On Wednesday the 18th, we arrived at Ekatereenburg. As two of our number were indisposed from cold and fatigue, we thought it advisable to rest; and having procured lodgings, we remained two days in this place. This city was built by the Empress Catherine, and called after her name (which, in Russ, is Ekatereen). In Ekatereenburg there is a large Imperial fabric, for polishing and preparing minerals which are found here; we visited it, but as it was imperial we were unable to make any purchases, except a few belonging to a person who showed us the fabric. It soon, however, became known that we wished to see specimens, and several persons came with large assortments; but as they asked what we deemed an exorbitant price, we declined buying.

As we had a letter of introduction to the general post director of Siberia, residing at Tobolsk, we waited upon him, hoping he would send some person to assist us in procuring lodgings.

He re

ceived us most cordially, and invited us to stop with him; we told him we were under the necessity of remaining several days in Tobolsk, and apprehended it might prove very inconvenient were we to remain at his house so long. He, however, would take no denial, but insisted upon our staying with him, observing, that he had room amply sufficient for our accommodation, and should be glad of our company several weeks; and then led us through a large range of handsome rooms, which he said were all at our service. We accepted his pressing invita tion, and remained at his house till the 3d of March."

Meanwhile, on Thursday morning (Feb. 28), we waited upon his Excellency the Governor, and delivered a letter which we had received from the Governor General of Siberia. He received us very kindly, wished us, with our families, to dine at his house, and sent his carriage to fetch us. His Excellency is a native of Holland, and belongs to the reformed German church. He, with some others of the same profession, lamented very much the want of a resident German pastor, regularly to administer to them the ordinances of the gospel. They have a church, and the Governor had written to Germany, received many promises, but no pastor had yet been obtained. We enquired of his Excellency the number of different heathens living within the Tobolsk government. He informed us that there were about ten thousand, and divided into three tribes, viz. the Samoeids who live to the north of Tobolsk; Mahommedan Tartars, such as are about Kazau; and Kirgesians who border on the Orenburg government. During our stay in Tobolsk, we had an interview with his eminence the Archbishop; he spoke with Mr. R. in Latin, and with Mr. S. in Russ, and expressed his approbation of our undertaking, saying it was a "God-like work." He is president of the Bible Society here, which is in a very flourishing state. We left with him, as also with the Governor and Post-Director, a copy of Princess Mischertsky's work upon Missions, which we received from her excellency at Moscow for distribution.

During our stay at the house of the post-director, we met a great deal of company every day; we longed for retirement, and fearing that the Sabbath might prove like other days, we requested that we might remain in our rooms for the celebration of divine worship. To this he cheerfully assented, and afterwards told us a person of distinction had called to make our acquaintance; but that he had informed him we were engaged at our devotions, and must not be disturbed.

On the three preceding Sabbaths we

had been deprived of the privilege of meeting together for worship; we therefore gladly hailed this sacred day of rest. As it was the first Sabbath in March, we joined our distant friends in celebrating the Lord's supper. Mr R. made some remarks on part of the 26th chap. of Mat. thew, and Mr. S. administered the ordinance. Inclosed in a small sleeping apart ment, we found truly that the presence of Christ is not confined to any place, or to the large assembly; but that "whereever two or thre are gathered together in his name, there is he in the midst of them." While we had much to seek, and more to be abased for before his throne, yet we had much occasion for gratitude; we had been helped forward, and brought through the most difficult and tedious part of our way; connected with the other half were many pleasing prospects.

On the 2d of March we prepared for our departure, having made the necessary provision for our journey to Tomsk. We called to take leave of his Excellency the Governor, who sent us some provisions for the way; he also sent a Cossack with us in addition to the courier; this had been recommended to us at St. Petersburg by the Governor General, and the Governor of Tobolsk also thought it desirable.

Tobolsk bears the marks of former greatness and grandeur; and the fortifirations, which have failen to ruins without reparation, serve to shew how very much inferior it now is to what it formerly was. Very little trade is carried on here. The weather, during our stay, was remarkably mild: the cold of Tobisk had appeared formidable to us; but we found many persons complaining that it was too mild to be healthy; and during that time there was not more than five or six degrees of frost.

On the evening of Monday we took leave of our kind host. During the whole of our stay at his house, we found in him the same obliging, frank and generous friend; and we left him, earnestly wishing that blessings far better than any we could impart, or had received, might be communicated to him. Unknown to us, and which we did not discover till the next day, he had ordered a box of useful provisions to be packed up, and committed to the care of the courier whom he sent with us; and having the command of the posts, we found that he had sent notices to the post-houses to give us the best accommodations, and lodgings when neces

sary.

We commenced the latter half of our journey in good spirits, hoping to find much better roads. We left Tobolsk about seven o'clock in the evening, travel

led all night, halted at five next morning, and found that we had gone nearly a hundred versts. As soon as it was daylight, we discovered that our method of travelling was changed, as it respected the horses. Instead of having three horses abreast, as before, we were now, in consequence of the narrowness of the roads, drawn atter the manner of a single team. It was on this account necessary for us to have a postillion, and sometimes two. More horses were also employed, but upon inquiry, we found that we were not expected to pay for more than the usual number; but, as they had plenty, the postmasters preferred sending more. Thus it sometimes happened, that while we were paying for only ten horses, we were actually drawn by twenty-four. We travelled now at a much quicker rate than before, and on the 6th of March arrived at Tara, the next city in this government, and about 560 versts from Tobolsk, the capital. We stopped in this city only about two hours, during which time we received a visit from the Gorodneecki, or governor of the town, who behaved very politely, wished us to remain some time in the city, and also to procure lodgings for us; but being desirous to proceed to Tomsk as soon as possible, we declined his civility. The farther we travelled in Siberia the more hospitable we found the people, and we had a proof of it in this place; when we arrived at the post-house, the postmaster wished to know if we would take tea, which we did; and when we wished to pay for it, he refused to receive any remuneration: saying "he was not that man who would take money of strangers."

On the 7th we entered on an extensive

plain, called Baraba, in which we couti nued travelling several days. This was the most gloomy part of our journey, for during this time we could see nothing bat the snow over which we were travelling and the horizon around us.

On the Sabbath-day we halted at a small village, where with difficulty we obtained a room for worship. Had this been any other day we should have been compelled to have halted, as there was a heavy fall of snow and much wind, so that our way, lying through a plain, was completely hid. A polite stranger, who visited us to-day, and made many enquiries respecting our journey, said that he had just returned from Tomsk, and the Governor there had made many enquiries concerning us. He informed us, that some years ago these plains were inhabited by a savage race of Tartars, balled Barabinstky, who continually molested travellers, and rendered it dangerous to journey here; but that there had been so many Russians sent to these parts, and the Tartars had

become so intermixed with them, that there was no danger. In the evening he paid us a second visit, and brought us provisions for the road.

The former part of our journey on this day was very gloomy. The snow, which had fallen on the preceding day, was a great deal drifted by the wind, so that we sometimes found it difficult to discover the road. But it was our exalted privilege to know that we had an unerring Guide, who was continually with us, leading us as by a pillar of cloud by day, and a pillar of fire by night.

The next city to which we came is called Kyeensk, a place of considerable trade; but as we passed it in the middle of the night, we had no opportunity of seeing it. Cities and towns were very scarce in this part of our journey. Between Tobolsk and Tomsk we only passed through two, about 500 versts distant from each other, and seldom met a traveller. The roads, however, were much better, and the weather milder than in the former part of it. The villages are poor and very small; in many instan1. ces we observed bladders, or skins, as substitutes for glass in the windows, and frequently nothing but shutters, which when closed, completely darkened the hut.

March 14. After a pleasant ride upon the banks of the Tomsk, which from its windings affords many beautiful prospects, we arrived at the city, which, from the river, is called Tomsk, on the twelfth day after our departure from Tobolsk, a distance of 1,500 versts. We were met by a man at the gate of the city, enquiring who we were, and when we told him be directed us to lodgings already prepared by order of the Governor.

We found our situation at Tomsk retired and quiet, which was very agreeable to us. Our lodgings consisted of four large rooms, the owner of which lived in a range above us; he had formerly been an officer in the army, but having received a wound, retired to live at Tomsk. He appeared to be a sensible judicious man; he showed us much hospitality, and on our departure not only refused to accept of any renumeration for the use of his rooms, kitchen, and fires, but also furuished us with a good supply of bread for the road.

His Excellency the Governor also behaved with great kindness and politeness. He sent us provisions for the road, and also invited us to dine with him on Sunday, but said at the same time he should have many guests, and perhaps it might not be agreeable. We excused ourselves, preferring to spend the day in retirement at our lodgings; and it proved the most quiet and uninterrupted Sabbath we had Asiatic Journ.-No. 47.

spent upon the road. Our feelings in these our small meetings were of a kind different from those which we had frequently realized in large assemblies of Christians; but we also experienced feelings to which we were before entire strangers, and found much pleasure and satisfaction in encouraging and exhorting each other in our Christian course.

March 17th, we left Tomsk about 12 o'clock. Tomsk is a large city, but the capital of the least of the Siberian provinces. It stands upon the river Tomm, which takes its rise near the city. There are here many Mahomedan Tartars, who have two mosques.

After we left Tomsk we still experienced the kindness of his Excellency the Governor; for in addition to the Cossack, whom he had sent to accompany us to Irkoutsk, he had sent another before us to the bounds of his government, in order to provide horses, so that we had no detention, but in every place found them with their drivers in the streets, waiting our arrival. In the evening of Wednesday, the 19th, we arrived at Krasnoyask, a considerable city, about 550 versts from Tomsk. Here we were received and treated in the kindest and most hospitable manner by a Russian merchant, who having heard of our approach, prepared his house for our reception, and wished us to stop all night with him; but as we had determined upon travelling that night, we declined his kiud proposals, and staid only two or three hours. The Governor of the town sent a cossack to wait upon us, expecting that we should make a longer stay; but when he heard of our intended early departure, he called upon us himself, and expressed his willingness to do any thing in bis power to serve us.

Leaving this city about nine o'clock, we travelled that night, and late the next evening arrived at Kainskoy Ostrogue, the last station in the Tomsk government, and resolved upon spending the night at this place. Almost immediately after our arrival, we were visited by a young officer, who commands the town and boundaries of the government. He behaved very politely, and early the next morning prepared a breakfast for us, and provisions for the day upou the road, and afterwards accompanied us to the boundary, which separates the Tomsk from the Irkoutsk government, about two versts from the town. Here we parted with the polite stranger, and were glad to see something which bore the name of Irkoutsk. This government is very extensive: on the western side it extends 700 versts, and eastward to the limits of the empire, or about 600 versts from the city. So thinly, however is this immense tract of country in habited, that although it forms by far the VOL. VIII. 3 Q

We expected that as we advanced farther into Siberia, we should find the state of the villages, and the accommodation for travellers worse than those with which we had already met; but this was by no means the case, for almost as soon as we entered this government, we saw a favourable change in the appearance of things; the villages were all regularly built, the streets wide and clean, and in the post-houses better rooms for the accommodation of travellers, and many other things which confirmed the ideas which we had been led to entertain of the character and activity of the governor.

We travelled the two following nights and arrived at a small village early on Sabbath morning, where finding a comfortable room we were glad to take rest, and having refreshed ourselves, we closed our doors for the celebration of the worship of our Heavenly Father. We hoped to have remained here till evening; but going out after our morning worship, we perceived that the sun was very powerful, and that the snow was melting very fast, so that having heard of the sudden change from winter to spring, we considered it to be our duty, after taking some refreshment, to proceed immediately on our journey.

In the middle of the night we arrived at Neejnivodunsk, a considerable city, but stopped in it no longer than was necessary for changing horses. We now began to feel the inconvenience of bad roads in a way different from what we had formerly experienced. In many places the snow had melted away, and dirt was substituted for it, which convinced us more than ever of the importance of pushing forward. But it was not till within eighty versts of Irkoutsk, that we experienced the greatest trial of our patience. We had travelled on Tuesday night, halted to take refreshment, and about seven o'clock on Wednesday morning again set forward, hoping to reach Irkoutsk in good time that day; but when arrived at about a verst from the post station, we found that there had been a complete thaw, which made our sledges drag so heavily, that we could move only at a slow walking pace, the horses being frequently obliged to stop, unable to proceed. Notwithstanding every effort we were compelled to halt in the evening one station short of Irkoutsk, disappointed, yet thankful that we had been permitted to proceed so far before the change of wea ther commenced. Although we had frequently travelled 150 or 160 versts a-day, we were now obliged to be content to be dragged 50 versts in 14 hours! We took

and rose early the next morning to com plete our journey. There had been a sharp frost during the night; no sun was to be seen, and at length the snow fell so thick, as to prevent our having any distant view of the city. We travelled partly on the river Angara, and partly on a road rendered exceedingly rough by the preceding thaw. We all arrived at Irkoutsk in health and safety about 12 o'clock on Thursday, March 26th, N.S., and took up a temporary abode in lodgings prepared for us by the governor.

day, and delivered to him our letter of We waited upon his excellency the next recommendation. He received us very kindly, made many enquiries respecting the Society by which we were sent, and promised to do every thing in his power to promote our object. He soon sought out a house for us, which we engaged.

The situation of Irkoutsk is very pleasant. The Angara and Irkoutsk flowing upon the west, and the Urukoffskaya upon the north, and north-east, from a by hills; the country also, for a long way peninsula. It is surrounded on all sides round, is very mountainous, and about three versts out of the city may be seen mountains at the distance of 150 versts, which are covered with snow all the year.

The city of Irkoutsk contains about 15,000 inhabitants, including 2000 soldiers and 1500 Cossacks. The houses are chiefly of wood, but there are also a few good stone ones. In all the Russian towns, as well as villages, through which we passed, there are many churches, and this city contains 14, and one monastery. The whole of this government, and particularly the town where we now are, bas active exertions of his excellency the prereceived many improvements through the sent governor.

In this as well as in all the other government towns in Siberia, is a large house, called a Rabochy Dome (or work house), for the reception of exiles, who are mechanics, in which they are employed in all their diffeaent departments: part of the profits arising from their works is enjoyed by themselves, and the other part is devoted to charitable purposes. There is a great deal of business transacted here, but not upon a good plan; for although we are not more than 500 versts from the boundaries of the Chinese empire, most articles from that country are dealer bere than in England. There are a great many of the Buriats in this city. Their language, as well as that of all on this side the Baikal, appears to be a different dialect from that spoken by those beyond the lake. They have no books, are not able to read or write, and mix much Russ