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were evidently given under the suspicion, that we might belong to the sect in point; and we could not but admire his polite liberality towards all parties, although he professed to be himself a presbyterian. Under his guidance we were not long in finding the Bull Inn, where we gladly rested for the present.
The approach to Glasgow is not so striking to a stranger as that to Edinburgh. Glasgow standing upon comparatively level ground, and surrounded by a richer country, is devoid of the abruptness and boldness which characterizes and gives such an indescribable interest to every view of Edinburgh. Besides this, the contrast between the different parts of the former is much less marked than in the latter, for I could nowhere discern any thing equal to the elegant regularity and cleanliness of the New, or to the clumsy irregularity and the disgusting filth of the Old Town of Edinburgh. Glasgow, however, is a fine city, and in the number of its inhabitants 'is inferior to London alone, although the magnitude of the place would seem to invalidate the statement. To account for this apparent incongruity, we have to consider the number of families dwelling in one house, which I suppose is, on an average, at least five or six; the houses being lofty, and a family scarcely ever occupying more than two flats or floors, and but seldom more than one.
Entering at the north-western extremity, our guide conducted us up the Trongate, the principal street, wbich on account of its extent, width, and straightness, as well as its buildings, would, among the streets of London, hold a distinguished rank. The surrounding hustle appeared to me, after spending five months in a town of so little real business as Edinburgh, very considerable, and was peculiarly grateful to my feelings, as bearing some faint resemblance to the well-known bustle of London. At a distance from home nothing can be more agreeable than meeting with objects and sounds resembling those which have there been familiar to us.
The next morning I employed wholly in exploring the city. I first took a turn into the college, au ancient and venerable building, formed of several courts, including the houses of the professors, as well as the
Hunterian Museum. Behind these are extensive gardens with gravel walks, shaded by lofty trees, until lately open to the students, but during the last session they have béen entirely enclosed. In these gardens the skirmish between Osbaldistone and Rashleigh is represented to have taken place, and from this circumstance they are now viewed with as much interest as a spot noted in history for some great event. In external appearance the museum is much more elegant and modern than the rest of the college. The whole building, although it has an air of respectability, is not to be compared with Edinburgh College, either in respect to its architecture or magnificence; as the latter, when finished, will be the grandest in Scotland. All the students here wear red gowns, an incumbrance with which the Edinburgh students are not burdened. Some pride themselves on the antiquity and raggedness of their cloaks, intending that the unwary should judge of the length of their attendance at college by the age of their garbs. The chief utility of cloaks, a student informed me, consisted in covering the tatters of an old cgat.
Having met with Mr. K. an English friend of mine, studying at the college, who kindly proffered to officiate as my cicerone, we directed our steps towards the Clyde, whose name the popular song of Sweet Kitty of the Clyde,” had rendered familiar to me almost from my infancy. I was much surprised to find so wide and fine a river not more than two or three feet deep in most parts. We crossed over it by the new and most westerly bridge, in our way to the old one, our curiosity drawing us to it, as the scene where Rob Roy held an interview with Osbaldistone. It has no great architectural beauty about it, being a massy cumbrous pile. On the northern side of the river are two elegant mo. dern gothic chapels, one belonging to the Episcopalians, and the other to the Roman Catholics, the expense of building which was defrayed by penny subscriptions ! Beyond “Rob Roy's Bridge,” as it is now designated, we crossed another of wood, placed solely for the accommodation of foot passengers. This brought us to the prison, not however the one mentioned in the novel, which has been taken down, but a structure of late erection, built of stone, and a considerable ornament to this part of the town, being in an open space before the green ; though its proximity to the water renders the situation unhealthy for its wretch
ts wretched inhabitants. . During my stay in Glasgow the sessions were held here; the sight of soldiers guarding the prison and court of justice, appeared strange in the eyes of an Englishman. Mr. Jeffray, the celebrated editor of the Edinburgh Review, and an eloquent Scotch advocate, meeting at the preceding sessions with some interruption from one of these guards, who was not aware of Mr. Ji's profession, stopped the proceedings in court, and in a most appropriate manner condemned this illegal mode of protecting a court of justice by the introduction of the military.
It might be supposed that the Scotch hold Lord Nelson in high estimation, if we were to judge from the monuments which have been raised to his memory. On the Calton Hill, in Edinburgh, is a fine lofty stone tower, called Nelson's monument, and in the middle of the extensive green before Glasgow gaol, has been reared an
an obelisk for the same purpose, disfigured much by the sbattered state of its point, which was struck by lightning, not long after it had been finished.
Leaving the prison, we next walked through the Saltmarket, the oldest street in the town, once the residence of many noblemen, but now of a set more filthy than the inhabitants of the parish of St. Giles's. With all its dirt, however, it cannot be deemed so bad as the Cannongate, Bow, and Cowgate, ju Edinburgh, formerly the residence of the Scotch court. This alteration is certainly in favour of the Scotch, and clearly evinces that they have of late made rapid strides towards perfection; indeed they, it any thing, are now running into the opposite extreme, and becoming affectedly fastidious. In the wall of a house in the Saltmarket, is a stone with a short inscription, informing the reader of a flood of the Clyde, which rose some years ago six or seven feet above the pavement..
As we were now approaching the college, I again parted with Mr. K., and joined my Edinburgh friend, Mr. G., who invited me to accompany him on a visit to an old acquaintance of his at Port Glasgow. Tempted by the opportunity I should thus enjoy of seeing some
thing of the Clyde, I gladly accepted the invitation. We therefore immediately proceeded to the quay, and entering the Defiance steam-boat, left Glasgow about three o'clock in the afternoon. The banks of the Clyde are rather beautiful than otherwise, here and there adorned with the villas of Glasgow merchants. In consequence of the want of water sufficiently deep to admit of large vessels coming close up to Glasgow, the steam-boats are extremely useful for conveying goods to Port Glasgow, where they are shipped in heavy burdened vessels for abroad. It was on the Clyde that the first experiment with steam-boats was tried in Great Britain. The boats employed on this river have the boilers of their engines made of wrought iron, and the effects of an explosion hence become almost harmless, as a seam being the weakest part of the boiler, always cracks and gives vent to the highly condensed vapour, and the ears only of the passengers are a little offended by the loud report.
Two little ragged beggar-boys contrived to creep into the boat before our departure, and having obtained all they were able from the pockets of the passengers, by two pathetic tales, delivered in a most piteous tone, retired into a corner, and with all imaginable glee amused themselves during the remainder of the voyage, by gambling with their spoils at the game of toss-up.
We had scarcely left Glasgow many miles behind us, when a shower of rain compelled me to take shelter in the cabin, and content myself with a life of Sterne until we reached the pier of Port Glasgow
This port is extensive and elegant, the houses and harbour are stone, as are all the buildings in Scotland, bricks being but seldom met with. Scotch town-balls, like those on the continent, have generally a steeple, for the purpose of containing a public clock.
Mr. G.’s enquiry after his friend, Mr. P., proving fruitless, we settled ourselves for the evening at the inn; Mr. P., however, made his appearance with another gentleman, about'eight o'clock, and spent the rest of the evening with us. °Mr. P. and my friend having been apprentices in the same, office, the conversation naturally turned upon their old exploits, which with
the fatigues of the day as naturally threw me into a premature doze. One anecdote, however, in connection with the place, related by Mr. P., I mnst not omit to mention. The town-bell, which kept dinning in our ears the whole eveving, was presented to the town by some person whose name I do not remember; and in order that this gift should be treated with all due respect, the wise ones of Port Glasgow had it painted. Much to their surprise when they tried it, after undergoing this strange operation, they found the bell had lost all its sound. Considerable consultation and advice was had concerning the best mode of curing this dumbness, and it was at length consigned to the cook and scraper, to he roasted, boiled, and scraped ; by these means the bell again recovered its sound, but the mellowness of its tones is still a faint and living record of the operations it underwent, and a slur has ever since been attached on the wisdom of the wise ones of Port Glasgow
The next morning being fine, I wandered up a hill close behind the town, whence I commanded a delightful view of the Clyde and its hilly banks, and the port of Greenock, which is only three miles beyond this town. Directly before me I had a distinct view of the distant Highlands, a glance that increased my desire to be among them. The harbour below me was but thinly scattered with shipping : before the peace of 1814, it has been known to receive in one day more than forty sail of merchantmen from the West Indies, which is far from being the case at present. In consequence of this great trade an additional harbour was commenced, but the sudden failure of trade prevented its completion, and it now remains in an unfinished state.
The town being merely a place of trade, our curiosity respecting it did not detain us long, and Mr. G, having fulfilled his intention, we left it about eleven o'clock, in a steam-boat. We remained on deck during the greater part of our passage; the wind blew cool, though not so much so as the day before, and I was determined not to lose the prospect ibis time. Dumbarton and Dunglass castles are the chief objects 'worthy of notice on the shores; but as I shall have to mention these hereafter,