MAYENCE. PRUSSIAN AND AUSTRIAN TROOPS. 7

The Austrians and Prussians, who detest each other, were at first continually disturbing the city with their broils. The most dangerous of these, which the newspapers detailed, was caused by an Hungarian regiment, complete barbarians, with whom it was impossible to live peaceably, and who are now removed. The animosities of the troops are now somewhat softened by habit, and restrained by military regulations. Prussian conceit and vivacity sometimes treat the heavy gormandizing Austrian rather unceremoniously. A Prussian officer drinking with some Austrians, joined in toasting military exploits with some cordiality, when an Austrian, by way of compliment, proposed to drink to the battle of Waterloo, a favourite theme of Prussian pride-calling to the waiter to bring a bottle of Champaign and six glasses. The Prussian taking fire at the paltry honour intended for his achievements, bawled out with an expression of contempt, "bring me six bottles of Champaign and one glass."

The policy of dividing a large garrison between inveterate enemies, and of sepa

rating it from the possession of the town, may justly be questioned; but the fortress was selected as one of the centres of strength of the German Confederation, and it is found less objectionable both for the military and the inhabitants to garrison it with the troops of the two principal powers than with motley contingents of the great and little Princes. The Grand Duke of Hesse willingly takes the acquisition of the city and a fine rich arrondissement of the ancient French Department of Mont Tonnerre, subject to this inconvenience. On any rupture, however, between Austria and Prussia, his City is sure to become a scene of bloody struggles, and to fall into the hands of the strongest party.

Mayence and the district extending along the banks of the Rhine from Bingen to Worms, of which it is the capital, are now under the civil government of the Grand Duke of Hesse's Council of Regency, headed by a President. The French governed the whole department by a Prefect, a SubPrefect, and one or two Sub-Officers; but German form and routine require about forty Counsellors of Regency, upper bailiffs,

MAYENCE.-PUBLIC FEELING.

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under bailiffs, and other statesmen in detail, who pocket salaries, and serve to clog the movements of government. The people of the Province, are in general, however, contented with their new Sovereign; and the citizens would be more so if they were not incommoded by the troops; but town's people and rustics, all look back to the mild rule of the Ecclesiastical Princes, as to bright days almost forgotten in the changing calamities which have succeeded them.

The liberal government of the Grand Duke, which has wisely left the administration of Justice, trial by jury, the Code Napoleon, and other French improvements on the footing in which he found them with slight modifications, deserves praise. The inhabitants of Mayence, and the whole province, are of course chiefly Catholics; but though now subject to a Protestant Prince, they have nothing to complain of on the score of religion.Their faith is no longer an aristocratical and splendid one-the days of luxurious Chapters and rosy faced Canons are gone by- but the people enjoy the freest toleration and every privilege of Pro

testants-their pastors and schools are upon an equal footing. In short, the new Hessians on this side the Rhine are so well contented with their condition, that they have refused to sign the general Address to the Diet for the restoration of the States of the Country-asserting that they have every reason to hope for just rule from a Prince who has shown himself so liberally disposed towards them. This is however rather the conduct of green politicians, who have not yet learnt to appreciate security for the future as well as present comfort.

The massive red stone Towers and light pinnacles of the Cathedral form venerable objects in a dirty dilapidated square in the centre of the town, filled with the barrows and baskets of a littering market, and thronged with motley groupes of passengers of all qualities. The meanness of the lower ranks, the white Austrian, and the blue Prussian, uniforms, here and there a prowling cock'd-hatted gendarme, or a solitary demure priest, are, however, the predominant features. The Cathedral has nothing very striking in its architecture beyond a heavy massive grandeur; and after

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the eye has been delighted by the superb and graceful Gothic edifices of the Netherlands it is by no means remarkable. It contains some interesting and handsome monuments of the Electors. Besides Albert of Brandenburg and other men of celebrity, Fastrada, the wife of Charlemagne, is buried here, and honoured by an inscription, which I was not linguist enough to decypher. We did not omit paying due respect to the small stone erected to Henry Frauenlob, Anglice, "Praise the Ladies," the old Minnesinger and Canon, whose surname vouches for the gallantry of his poems. The fair dames of Mayence displayed their grateful fondness of their bard by bearing him to his grave, and inundating his bier with tears and red wine.

As the birth-place of the art of printing, Mayence must ever be regarded with interest. The scite of Gutenberg's, the printer's house, is now not unappropriately occupied by the Casino and the Cabinet de Lecture, and his printing office is possessed by a learned Professor. The arms of the Gutenberg family are still to be seen on the walls. Faust's house is degraded into a low inn.