blue coat with gilt buttons, which I wore on this occasion, and he entreated me to give it him ; adding that he would wear it in public, and acquaint all who saw it with my great liberality. This argument did not perfectly reconcile me to parting with my coat; but as I considered the request of the King of Bondou, in his own dominions, to be little short of command, I took off my coat, laid it at his feet, and repented that I had ever worn it in his country.

Al Mami supplied me with plenty of provisions, and the next day, understanding that I knew something of medicine, he desired me to visit his wives, in quality of a physician. I had no sooner entered the court appropriated to these ladies, than they all surrounded me, to the number of ten or twelve; most of them young and handsome, and all wearing on their heads ornaments of amber and of gold. Some asked for physic, others for amber; all desired to be let blood. They said that the unnatural whiteness of my skin was produced by dipping me in milk when I was an infant, and the unsightly prominence of my nose by its having been daily pinched. Without disputing my own deformity, I praised the glossy black of the ladies skins, and the beauty of their flat noses. They replied that honey-mouth, that is, flattery, was not esteemed in Bondou; but they did not appear quite so insensible of it as they pretended. They presented me with a jar of honey and some fish, which were sent to my lodging.

In the evening I went to take leave of the king, carrying with me some beads and writing paper; as a small present is usual on such an occasion. He gave me five drachms of gold, as a token of

his friendship, and said that he should dispense with the examination of my baggage, though all travellers who passed through his country were obliged to submit to it. He added that I was at liberty to depart when I pleased.

The next morning I quitted Fattekonda, and in three hours arrived at the verge of the forest which separates the kingdoms of Bondou and Kajaaga. From Tallika, the frontier town of Bondou on the side of Woolli, to Fattekonda, the capital, had been seven days journey.

CHAPTER III.

KAJAAGA. KASSON. KAARTA. LUDAMAR. ARABS.

We entered the wood at night, that being the best time, as I was informed, to pass it in safety. The brightness of the moon, the stillness of the air, the deep solitude of the forest, and the howling of the wild beasts, rendered the scene solemn and impressive. Not a word was spoken by any of us; but my companions pointed out to me the wolves and hyenas, as they glided, like shadows, from one thicket to another. Towards morning, we arrived at a village called Kimmoo, where we halted to refresh ourselves and our asses; and in the afternoon we reached Joag, in the kingdom of Kajaaga.

Bondou is bounded on the east by Bambouk, and on the north by Kajaaga. The country, like

that of Woolli, is generally covered with wood; but the land is more elevated, and towards the Falemé it rises into hills. In fertility I do not know that it is surpassed by any country in Africa.

The inhabitants of Bondou are a colony of Foolahs. They have a tawney complexion, small features, and soft, silky hair. They consider the negroes as their inferiors, and rank themselves among white people. They are naturally of a mild disposition; but the uncharitable maxims of the koran have rendered such as have embraced its religion more hostile to Christians. The majority of the people are Muhamedans, and their number is increasing by means of village schools; but the king is what they call a kafer, that is, an unbeliever.

The industry of the Foolahs in pasturage and agriculture is every where distinguishable; but in Bondou these people are opulent in a high degree, and enjoy all the necessaries of life in profusion. On the approach of night, the cattle belonging to a village are collected into an inclosure, in the midst of which is a hut for the retreat of one or two herdsmen, who keep watch during the night, and renew the fires that surround the inclosure. The cows give excellent milk, but not in so large a quantity as those in Europe. The Foolahs make butter of the cream by stirring it violently in a calabash; this forms a part of most of their dishes, and is liberally bestowed on their faces and arms.

The traders between the interior countries and the rivers of Senegal and Gambia, pass through Bondou, and are charged with heavy duties; a loaded ass paying about the value of two shillings

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at almost every town it passes through, and a musket and six bottles of gunpowder at Fattekonda.

The kingdom of Kajaaga reaches to the Senegal, which bounds it on the north; on the south and south east it is bounded by Bambouk. In this territory is situated Galam, the boundary of the French navigation and commerce on that river. The face of the country has a pleasing variety of hills and vallies, and the windings of the Senegal make the scenery on its banks very picturesque and beautiful.

The inhabitants of Kajaaga are called Serawoollis. They formerly carried on a great commerce with the French in gold and slaves, and they still maintain some traffic with the British factories on the Gambia. They are indefatigable in their endeavours to acquire wealth; but they are just in their dealings, When a Serawoolli merchant returns from a trading expedition without having made much profit, his neighbours regard him as a man of mean understanding, and express this opinion by saying that "he has performed so long a journey, and brought nothing back but the hair on his head."

The town of Joag, where I now was, is situated near the Senegal, above the French settlement at Galam, and below the fall of Felow. It is surrounded by a high wall, in which are a number of port-holes for musketry; every man's residence, containing, as usual, several huts, is also inclosed by a wall. The town may contain 2,000 inhabitants. As soon as it was dark, I was invited to be a spectator of their amusements, which consisted of drumming and dancing. These ended, I made my bed upon the bentang, getzen

In the morning I was awakened by an attempt to steal a musket which lay by me; but the thief desisted from his purpose on finding that he was discovered. I was afterwards surprised at seeing myself surrounded by about twenty persons, who seated themselves on the bentang, each holding a musket in his hand. A man, loaded with a remakable number of charms, or safis, as they are termed in the Mandingo language, opened the business, by informing me that I had entered the king's town without having paid the duties, and that, according to the laws of the country, my people, cattle, and baggage were forfeited. He added that his orders were to conduct me to Manna, the residence of the king, and to take me thither by force, if I refused to go. The men then rose, and asked if I were ready.

I replied that I had erred without knowing that I did so; that I had no intention to defraud the King of Kajaaga, or violate his laws; and that I was now ready to pay the duties. I then offered the five drachms of gold I had received from the King of Bondou, which they accepted; but they insisted upon examining my baggage, and after having taken from it what they pleased, they left me. I passed the night in meditating on the subject, and I concluded, that if I produced any part of my hidden store of beads and amber, to purchase provisions, the remainder would be forfeited to the officers of the King of Kajaaga; I therefore resolved to endure hunger the ensuing day.

Towards evening,, as I was sitting on the bentang, chewing straws, an old female slave passed by, with a basket on her head, and asked me if I had got my dinner. I answered that the king's