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meant to beat them, out of our hand, disappointment; and would either turn and we ourselves are beaten by them." their back upon me as soon as possible, Others said, “No objection can be made: or else treat me with suspicion, as a danthe truth is with you.
gerous person. Oh! may I become August 6, 1829–Last night we passed to many a most dangerous man; that, a village in which I am told are many through the mercy of Jesus Christ, I may Christians, who, for the most part sub- turn them from their selfishness, and sisting by agriculture, have not learnt to slumber of death, which they call peace, 'read. This village is called Busat-en- into a consciousness of their real danger Nusara, or the Busat of the Christians, -into anxiety and uneasiness; and thus and is at one hour-and-a-quarter distance conduct them to Jesus our Redeemer! from the shore. The by-náme ‘en-Nu. As soon as I was arrived, the Consul sara'(of the Christians) distinguishes it sent me a horse by his Secretary, to take from Busat, which lies near the east bank me to his country-house, where he lives of this arm of the Nile, inhabited by Ma- during the summer season, entreating me homedans only. Towards noon-day, we to lodge with him: and, although I gave arrived at Sherbin, a small town on the him to understand that, as a Missionary, west bank, in which there are three I could not live in solitude, but among Mosques. There are here 12 Mallims, men, for whose sake I came hither, he with their families, in the service of the nevertheless forced me to pass this day Pacha; to whom I sold parts of the and night with him. He has shewn me Scriptures. One of the most respecta- much attention. ble Turks, having seen the books which Aug. 12 - In Damietta there is a the Christians had bought of me, sent large number of Christians, of various his servant to ask whether I had not Confessions : about 150 are Roman Caa book for him in the Turkish Tongue ? tholics, who have a large Church, with I sent him the New Testament, with two Roman, and one Maronite Priest: which he was well pleased, as my ser of the Greek Church there are about 70 vant told me; but just then a Copt Families, having a Church and a Convent. happened to come to him, who, on The Greek Patriarch has a Vicar here, seeing the book, said to him, that this with whom two Married Priests and book was only for Christians, and pro one Monk are associated as co-adjutors. hibited it him. The Turk therefore re There are 10 Armenian Families, who, turned it.
from want of a Priest and a Church, keep Damietta.
to other Churches. The Copts consist of August 7 - Toward noon we moored about 20 Families, who have a Church, near Damietta. This town lies on the one Kumas, and a common Priest. The east side of this arm of the Nile; and op- Roman Catholics and Greeks are proposite to it is the large village Sennanieh. vided with tolerably good Schools, in comThe Nile is here considerably broad and parison with others in the East; among deep ; so that, at high water, large ships the Boys of which I distributed copies may come up from the sea: there were of the Gospels, Acts, and Tracts, accordfive here at this time. About three hours ing to their different faculties. The first off, this arm runs into the sea. From day after my arrival, I took up my abode the water-side, the town looks like a with Ysa Petros, who has his own house, small sea-town; and the towers of and whose father lives here. Hitherto I Mosques, of which I counted from the ship had very many visitors, of all Denominafrom 20 to 25, give it a very handsome tions, but especially Greeks. I regretted appearance : the interior looks nothing very much that I could satisfy only a few, better than other Egyptian Towns. All because all desired the New Testament nations navigating the Mediterranean and the Psalms in Ancient and Modern have here a Vice-Consul : the English Greek, with which I was provided but one, Mr. Sarcer, a native of Egypt, of sparingly. They take the Modern-Greek the Roman-Catholic Confession, treated Testament without the Ancient Text, but me most affectionately, even after he with great reluctance, even when given knew that I was a Missionary; which, in gratis ; therefore, I think, we ought to many instances, is not the case. At make an exception with the Greeks, and I have been received and treated kindly, give them the Scriptures in both dialects, as a stranger travelling for his pleasure; as they are not otherwise authorised by but as soon as I was known to be a Mis- the Priests. A great number of Roman sionary, they could not conceal their Catholics visited me: they are not so
bigoted as in other places : one of their ing these apparitions and miracles, that Priests also called on me frequently, I I had not been there at the right season, have certainly met here with a good deal I thought it advisable to give up my plan, of positive infidelity; and several have and to go there at the Festival, when asked me, to my great surprise, whether I thousands of Christians of all Denominahad not to sell the Korân or the Hariri, tions are assembled, carrying with me a instead of desiring the Word of Life. It supply of Scriptures and other Publicawas here that I felt most painfully the tions. The Festival begins the 12th day lack of the Italian Language ; as several of the Coptic month Bashan, and lasts called on me who could speak no other ten days: the 12th of Bashan is on the tongue, save a few words of Arabic, and 19th of May, I would observe, that with whom therefore I could have no the Sepulchre of Sette Damiane is not conversation. Next to the Arabic, the on the east of Mansoura, as I have stated knowledge of the Italian is a chief re formerly, but W.N.W. of Mansoura, in quisite for Missionaries travelling in the Desert, on the Isle of Delta, these parts: I therefore resolved on tak August 21 - This morning, we sailed ing the best measures to acquire it. But round the southern corner of the Delta, a few Copts have visited me; the reason and entered the western branch of the of which was my residence among the Nile. The day before yesterday I visited Greeks, each Denomination living here two large villages where Çopts live, which separately,
were unknown to me on my journey downAugust 14, 1829—During the last two wards. The first is called Mit Berreh, days,visitors having become very scarce, I on the west side of that arm of the Nile : have taken to-day another ship, with the there are twenty Christian Families in it, design of setting off early to-morrow morn who have a Church and a Priest, but, for ing. At first, I had it in contemplation to the most part, are very poor : I prego by land, with camels, along the Mediter- sented them with parts of the Scriptures ranean Coast, from here to Rosetta; but and Tracts, which were most thankfully as my store of Arabic Scriptures is yet received. The other village is Benalatoo large, because here I could scarcely sal, on the east side, which contains but dispose of any, such a journey would ten Christian Families, without a Church: have been too , tedious and expensive. here I disposed of several copies of the However, as I had passed by several Psalms in Coptic and Arabic, and preplaces on my way here without visiting sented some of the people with the Four them, because ignorant of there being Gospels and the Acts. Christians in them, and hoping to find more Christians on the banks of the western
Rosetta. branch of the Nile, I resolved on return August 27—This evening I arrived ing that way, passing round the southern at Rosetta. This western arm of the point of the Delta, and from thence sail. Nile is much broader than the eastern; ing to Rosetta,
but the shores of the latter are loftier, August 17-Towards evening, landed and more beautiful. The following are near Mansoura. My original intention the Villages and Towns which I have viwas, to visit from here the celebrated sited on my journey from southern place of pilgrimage of the Copts, the Se point of the Delta down to Rosetta, pulchre of Sette Damiane (Gemiane is a where Christians reside. faulty pronunciation of the Copts), in 1. Menouf; a considerable town, lyorder to examine the wonderful appari- ing 2} miles inland, on the east side of tions and miracles which I mentioned in the Nile on the Delta. In former times a former Letter ; but having discovered a great many Christians lived in this my project to a Priest here, he told me place, and it was the See of the Coptic that it was not certain whether the Saints Bishop charged with the affairs of the would appear just now, and that their Copts in Jerusalem ; but at this time, apparitions were, in general, only on the when only ten Coptic Families live here, Festival of Sette Damiane, but at other he has his seat in Caïro. times they are unusual. As I should 2. Negileh ; à village, containing eight have found there, at present, only a few Christian Families. Monks, and the way to it being very 3, Kafr Zayed; with five Christian tedious; and as the Copts would tell me,
Families. on my refusing their pretensions respect 4. Bijahr ; a' considerable town, two (RECORD, July, 1830.)
hours inland from Kafr Zayed, on the they have a Church, a Priest, and two east side, where twenty Christian Fami wretched Schools. In one of the latter lies live, having a Church and a Priest, are four Boys, under the inspection of a but no School.
blind Arif or Schoolmaster, who is often 5. Shubrahied, (on the Map wrong, a Priest grown blind; who, to exercise Shubr-Agheit); a Village, where I found them in repetition, causes them to comfive Coptic Families.
mit to memory the Prayers of the Church 6. Rahmanieh ; a considerable town, In the other Church there are five Boys : the seat of a Bey; where formerly, when some of these are from Alexandria, as his Canal was yet frequented, before that the Copts have no School there. I preof Fua was opened, there was much sented a few, who could read, with Gocommerce. About fifteen Christian Fa- spels; and to one of these Schools. I milies dwell here.
made a gift of ten copies of the Acts. The 7. Desouk; a village, with six Chris Priest was full of complaints, not knowtian Families.
ing how to earn his bread; and the Church 8. Fua; a considerable town, very Servant, who in times past had kept every populous, with several Manufactories of thing in order and cleanliness, is, from the Pacha. The number of Christians, want, gone to Alexandria; in consewhich is not large here likewise, I could quence of which, the utmost disorder and not ascertain.
confusion prevailed. Seven Families be9. Metoubit ; an old village in ruins, longing to the Greek Church live here, containing but two Christian Families. who are employed chiefly in constructing In each of these different spots I have small vessels : only a few can read. delayed a longer or shorter time, according There are about fifty Roman Catholics, to circumstances. The Christians in some who have a Church here : to these I of them have been but of late transferred could not sell one copy of the Scriptures ; hither from other parts by the Pacha, to nor did I find any person to whom I could serve as Clerks or Overseers in his different present them. With some, the prohibiWarehouses. But the Christians in the tion of their Church prevailed ; and with Divans are seldom to be found alone in others, the most tremendous unconcern. these parts, being mostly mingled with Ma- To give an instance : I had sent my serhomedans; which circumstance, in many vant to the Spanish Consulate, with a instances, deprives a Missionary of the French and an Italian Bible. The Consul opportunity of conversing with them on took the Italian Bible in his hand, and religious subjects. Generally speaking, asked the servant what he charged for the few Christians in this part of Egypt, it : he replied, that his Master took one being mostly without Churches and dollar from those who were wealthy; Schools, very soon grow wild; and the and from the less moneyed, ten piastres. most dreadful indifference towards the The Consul answered, “How dare your Word of God, as well as thorough world. Master demand so much money for such liness, is prevalent among the greatest a book, which he has bought in England part of them,
for fifteen paras (about the third part of August 29, 1829 The beautifully a piastre). The servant replied, situated, and, on account of its numerous Sacred Book is for men who fear God: magnificent gardens, celebrated city of and if you do not fear God, the Book is Rosetta has lost its former splendour, since not for you.” the Canal below Fua, towards Alexan
Canal of Alexandria. dria, has been opened ; and the large September 1 - At noon, moored in concourse of people, which formerly took the Canal of Alexandria, in the vicinity place here, has ceased altogether. The of Damanhour, a considerable town lymoment I arrived, a man, with eight or ing south from the Canal, two full hours ten keys of houses, approached me, offer in the Desert, on the Canal of Rahmaing me one. Many houses are in ruins, nieh, that leads to Alexandria; and in only from want of persons who think them which formerly, when this Canal was in worth repair and maintenance. There use, there was much commerce. Not is hardly any thing for a Missionary to do. being certain whether there were ChrisI intend to depart this morning. Of all tians, and the heat of the day being inthose Copts noticed by Mr. Jowett (Re- tense, I sent my servant and one of the searches in the Mediterranean, p. 108), sailors with several copies of the Scripthere are remaining but five Families : tures and Tracts; intending to go there
myself the following morning, in case there are able to give little or nothing towards were many Christians, and they were the support of the Church and the desirous of seeing me. Towards evening Priest. Besides these, there are about they returned, informing me that there 30 other Copts, some of whom are marwere only eight or ten Christian Fami- ried, whom the Pacha had called hither lies; and that two Christians had bought from other places, to his service: they the Psalms in Coptic and Arabic, 1 Bi- are, during the whole week, from early ble, and 2 New Testaments.
in the morning till late in the evening,
writing in their respective Divans; and Alexandria.
the Sundays they either' spend in the Sept.'3, 1829 - Yesterday evening I country, or at home, in banqueting and landed at Alexandria. It being too late worldly pleasures : thus no thought comes to go into the city that evening, though to their mind, during the whole of the I longed to pass a quiet night once more year, about the salvation of their souls, on dry land, I was obliged to remain in the Priest, or the Church.” A true picthe boat. This morning, at an early ture indeed! And, in fact, I was not hour, I began to visit our friends. able to make an impression on any of
Sept. 11 I intend to leave to-mor this class of people. Once I inspected row morning, and to return directly the Greek Convent: the Patriarch was to Caïro. During my sojourn in Alex- then in Caïro; and his Vicar, especially andria, I daily visited the School which when I offered him, as a present, the Mr. Mac Pherson has established here, Word of God, treated me with much and which, owing to his departure, is now, contempt. I gave him two copies of the as it were, fatherless. There are a great Psalms, in Ancient and Modern Greek ; hamber of very promising Boys in it-an but he no sooner knew that I was an advantage of which our School in Caïro English Priest, and that these books were cannot as yet boast; and, if hitherto the printed in England, than he flung the principal thing of a Christian School were books angrily on the table, and said, not wanting in it, it might be said to be “We do not want your books ! we have a flourishing one. As I found a great enough." I thought it not prudent to lack of books, I presented it with 20 give an answer, and so departed. Such copies of the Acts, 5 Bibles, and Arabic is the manner of men who are called Tracts. I twice visited the Coptic Con- Priests! In Caïro, too, the Greek Priestvent : there is only one Priest in it, who hood behave coldly towards us, without is married, and a Monk. The old Priest, our having given them, to our knowledge, with much briskness, recollected Mr. any reason of discontent; save that many Jowett, whose name he had forgotten, but Greeks have bought of us the Word of whom he depicted to me with the utmost God, and other good books. We have precision: he related to me, that he had repeatedly been told that the Patriarch performed Divine Service in his honour; had forbidden his subjects to receive that Mr. Jowett had presented them with books from us: however, we are not yet a Bible; and that if any one wishes to read sure of the truth of this. The unbelievit, he must either read it in the Church, ing Priests are here, as everywhere, or, if he chooses to take it out, he is almost the greatest obstacle to the dif-. bound to bring it back to its place as fusion of the Scriptures. Last Sunday soon as he has done with it. I made a Morning I expected to be permitted to present of another Bible, for use out of preach to the Germans in Alexandria, the Church; which was received with for which purpose I made, two days bethanks. From thence we went to the forehand, many visits to them, but all Church, took the Bible, sat down in the in vain: they all declined, making vain small Temple consecrated to St. Mary, apologies. In the afternoon, I had the and read in it: after which we conversed pleasure of baptizing the youngest son of on religious subjects for about two hours. our old friend Mr. Gliddon, in whose The Priest bitterly complained of the house I found much cordiality and kindCoptic Christians in Alexandria, of whom ness during my stay here. The English he gave the following description : Consul-General, Mr. Barker, who for “Only ten Families have a fixed abode years past has proved truly affectionate here, and attend regularly at the Church; to the Servants of the Lord, and has asbut they are all 'poor people, who earn
sisted them to the extent of his powers, their bread by manual labour, and who has likewise shewn me great attention.
I related to him, that I had been in- and for other Publications, 7 dollars and formed that Hanna Bochari, a Roman 3 piastres: together, 38 dollars and 7 Catholic, under whose direction are put piastres. This amount, however, is more all the Oriental Christians in the service considerable than I could have expected. of the Pacha, and who, consequently, It was with real pleasure that I was peris looked on as the Head of the Chris- mitted to take with me a considerable tians in Egypt in secular affairs, had number of copies of the excellent book, informed some person that he would Explanation of the Parables of our try to induce the Patriarchs of the dif Lord Jesus Christ, supposing that ferent parties to associate and present they would be eagerly received; but a Memorial to the Pacha, deşiring him imagine my surprise and grief, when I to expel us from the Country, as dis- found just the contrary. Almost everyturbers of his subjects. This project may where the book was returned to me, possibly be true; for this Hanna Bochari, with the greatest indifference; while the without having ever seen us, and without people strove for the Dairyman's having suffered the least personal of- Daughter;" which indeed is a nice book, fence from us, is exceedingly exaspe
but the translation, in many passages,
is rated, probably through the slander of the unintelligible; on which account I had at Priest of his Church. The Consul told other times distributed it, but with relucme, that the Pacha would not meddle tance, doubting whether one Copt in with such things; and, if we proceeded Egypt would be able to understand it with prudence in our labours, we are perfectly. It is the title which allures the as safe in Egypt as Hanna Bochari people, who take it for a new history of and the whole of his Church. Al.
some Saint, nearly in the same way as a though I have sent my servant nearly to romance would be received with us : the all the Divans with copies of the Holy reason is, the corrupted taste of the Scriptures, I have been able to dispose Christians in this country. To the same of few or none; and, though it might be fate even the Word of God is also subsupposed, that as for years every man ject; nevertheless, we need not be has had opportunity freely to procure the ashamed of the contempt and indiffeHoly Scriptures, at a moderate price or rence with which it is sometimes treated even gratuitously, many are really pro- in these regions. It is the best and vided with them, yet I apprehend that most useful Book, in Arabic, produced many do not possess this treasure, and by the Maltese Press; and I wish that are unconcerned about it.
a small Introduction to the Holy Scrip
tures may soon follow it. Return towards Caïro. Sept. 13, 1829–Near Fua, on my way
Bulak, near Caïro. to Caïro, when we sailed near the shore,
This evening I landed eight or ten naked boys. ran along after near Bulak, the suburb of Caïro; thus us, begging alms; and before I could accomplishing, under the assistance throw them some bread, my Reis repeat of the Lord, another journey, under edly called to them, “Allah jatik!” (May many discomforts, which indeed chiefly God give you !) “ Allah juaijinak!" (May arose from, and were aggravated by, God help you !)—a most common cus a more or less disordered body. I tom in Egypt, when a man will give no look back to it with much less cheerfulthing. I never was so much struck with ness of heart than on my former two this custom as now, when it brought to journeys: however, we must never forget my recollection the practices which St. that we are not to expect fruit from a James so strikingly censures (Chap. ii. field before the old and barren ground 15, 16).
has been broken up, plowed, planted, It is evident, from the account, that and watered, and the Lord has given the the sale of books was extremely bad; be increase; and, as it is now our business cause my conversation was most with to break up, to plow, and to sow, even poor people, and the richer ones, who with tears, so may the Lord be pleased in any degree cared for it, had already to give to us, His poor Helpers, grace, been provided with the Scriptures. The strength, and persevering courage and whole amount of money received for patience and hope, until a glorious harScriptures is, 31 dollars and 4 piastres ; vest in joy!