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August 6, 1829-Last night we passed a village in which I am told are many Christians, who, for the most part subsisting by agriculture, have not learnt to read. This village is called Busat-enNusara, or the Busat of the Christians, and is at one hour-and-a-quarter distance from the shore. The by-name 'en-Nusara' (of the Christians) distinguishes it from Busat, which lies near the east bank of this arm of the Nile, inhabited by Mahomedans only. Towards noon-day, we arrived at Sherbin, a small town on the west bank, in which there are three Mosques. There are here 12 Mallims, with their families, in the service of the Pacha; to whom I sold parts of the Scriptures. One of the most respectable Turks, having seen the books which the Christians had bought of me, sent his servant to ask whether I had not a book for him in the Turkish Tongue? I sent him the New Testament, with which he was well pleased, as my servant told me; but just then a Copt happened to come to him, who, on seeing the book, said to him, that this book was only for Christians, and prohibited it him. The Turk therefore returned it.

Damietta.

August 7-Toward noon we moored near Damietta. This town lies on the east side of this arm of the Nile; and opposite to it is the large village Sennanieh. The Nile is here considerably broad and deep; so that, at high water, large ships may come up from the sea: there were five here at this time. About three hours off, this arm runs into the sea. From the water-side, the town looks like a small sea-town; and the towers of Mosques, of which I counted from the ship from 20 to 25, give it a very handsome appearance: the interior looks nothing better than other Egyptian Towns. All nations navigating the Mediterranean have here a Vice-Consul: the English one, Mr. Sarcer, a native of Egypt, of the Roman-Catholic Confession, treated me most affectionately, even after he knew that I was a Missionary; which, in many instances, is not the case. At first I have been received and treated kindly, as a stranger travelling for his pleasure; but as soon as I was known to be a Missionary, they could not conceal their

disappointment; and would either turn their back upon me as soon as possible, or else treat me with suspicion, as a dangerous person. Oh! may I become to many a most dangerous man; that, through the mercy of Jesus Christ, I may turn them from their selfishness, and slumber of death, which they call peace, into a consciousness of their real danger

into anxiety and uneasiness; and thus conduct them to Jesus our Redeemer! As soon as I was arrived, the Consul sent me a horse by his Secretary, to take me to his country-house, where he lives during the summer season, entreating me to lodge with him: and, although I gave him to understand that, as a Missionary, I could not live in solitude, but among men, for whose sake I came hither, he nevertheless forced me to pass this day and night with him. He has shewn me much attention.

Aug. 12 In Damietta there is a large number of Christians, of various Confessions: about 150 are Roman Catholics, who have a large Church, with two Roman, and one Maronite Priest: of the Greek Church there are about 70 Families, having a Church and a Convent. The Greek Patriarch has a Vicar here, with whom two Married Priests and one Monk are associated as co-adjutors. There are 10 Armenian Families, who, from want of a Priest and a Church, keep to other Churches. The Copts consist of about 20 Families, who have a Church, one Kumus, and a common Priest. The Roman Catholics and Greeks are provided with tolerably good Schools, in com parison with others in the East; among the Boys of which I distributed copies of the Gospels, Acts, and Tracts, according to their different faculties. The first day after my arrival, I took up my abode with Ysa Petros, who has his own house, and whose father lives here. Hitherto I had very many visitors, of all Denominátions, but especially Greeks. I regretted very much that I could satisfy only a few, because all desired the New Testament and the Psalms in Ancient and Modern Greek, with which I was provided but sparingly. They take the Modern-Greek Testament without the Ancient Text, but with great reluctance, even when given gratis; therefore, I think, we ought to make an exception with the Greeks, and give them the Scriptures in both dialects, as they are not otherwise authorised by the Priests. A great number of Roman Catholics visited me: they are not so

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bigoted as in other places: one of their Priests also called on me frequently, I have certainly met here with a good deal of positive infidelity; and several have asked me, to my great surprise, whether I had not to sell the Korân or the Hariri, instead of desiring the Word of Life. It was here that I felt most painfully the lack of the Italian Language; as several called on me who could speak no other tongue, save a few words of Arabic, and with whom therefore I could have no conversation. Next to the Arabic, the knowledge of the Italian is a chief requisite for Missionaries travelling in these parts: I therefore resolved on taking the best measures to acquire it. But a few Copts have visited me; the reason of which was my residence among the Greeks, each Denomination living here separately,

August 14, 1829-During the last two days, visitors having become very scarce, I have taken to-day another ship, with the design of setting off early to-morrow morning. At first, I had it in contemplation to go by land, with camels, along the Mediterranean Coast, from here to Rosetta; but as my store of Arabic Scriptures is yet too large, because here I could scarcely dispose of any, such a journey would have been too tedious and expensive. However, as I had passed by several places on my way here without visiting them, because ignorant of there being Christians in them, and hoping to find more Christians on the banks of the western branch of the Nile, I resolved on returning that way, passing round the southern point of the Delta, and from thence sailing to Rosetta.

August 17-Towards evening, landed near Mansoura. My original intention was, to visit from here the celebrated place of pilgrimage of the Copts, the Sepulchre of Sette Damiane [Gemiane is a faulty pronunciation of the Copts], in order to examine the wonderful apparitions and miracles which I mentioned in a former Letter; but having discovered my project to a Priest here, he told me that it was not certain whether the Saints would appear just now, and that their apparitions were, in general, only on the Festival of Sette Damiane, but at other times they are unusual. As I should have found there, at present, only a few Monks, and the way to it being very tedious; and as the Copts would tell me, on my refusing their pretensions respect[RECORD, July, 1830.]

ing these apparitions and miracles, that I had not been there at the right season, I thought it advisable to give up my plan, and to go there at the Festival, when thousands of Christians of all Denominations are assembled, carrying with me a supply of Scriptures and other Publications. The Festival begins the 12th day of the Coptic month Bashan, and lasts ten days; the 12th of Bashan is on the 19th of May. I would observe, that the Sepulchre of Sette Damiane is not on the east of Mansoura, as I have stated formerly, but W. N. W. of Mansoura, in the Desert, on the Isle of Delta,

August 21-This morning we sailed round the southern corner of the Delta, and entered the western branch of the Nile. The day before yesterday I visited two large villages where Copts live, which were unknown to me on my journey downwards. The first is called Mit Berreh, on the west side of that arm of the Nile: there are twenty Christian Families in it, who have a Church and a Priest, but, for the most part, are very poor: I presented them with parts of the Scriptures and Tracts, which were most thankfully received. The other village is Benalasal, on the east side, which contains but ten Christian Families, without a Church: here I disposed of several copies of the Psalms in Coptic and Arabic, and presented some of the people with the Four Gospels and the Acts.

Rosetta

August 27-This evening I arrived at Rosetta. This western arm of the Nile is much broader than the eastern; but the shores of the latter are loftier, and more beautiful. The following are the Villages and Towns which I have visited on my journey from the southern point of the Delta down to Rosetta, where Christians reside.

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1. Menouf; a considerable town, lying 24 miles inland, on the east side of the Nile on the Delta. In former times a great many Christians lived in this place, and it was the See of the Coptic Bishop charged with the affairs of the Copts in Jerusalem; but at this time, when only ten Coptic Families live here, he has his seat in Caïro.

2. Negileh; a village, containing eight Christian Families.

3. Kafr Zayed; with five Christian Families.

4. Bijahr; a considerable town, two

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hours inland from Kafr Zayed, on the east side, where twenty Christian Families live, having a Church and a Priest, but no School.

5. Shubrahied, (on the Map wrong, Shubr-Agheit); a Village, where I found five Coptic Families.

6. Rahmanieh; a considerable town, the seat of a Bey; where formerly, when his Canal was yet frequented, before that of Fua was opened, there was much commerce. About fifteen Christian Families dwell here.

7. Desouk; a village, with six Christian Families.

8. Fua; a considerable town, very populous, with several Manufactories of the Pacha. The number of Christians, which is not large here likewise, I could not ascertain.

9. Metoubit; an old village in ruins, containing but two Christian Families. In each of these different spots I have delayed a longer or shorter time, according to circumstances. The Christians in some of them have been but of late transferred hither from other parts by the Pacha, to serve as Clerks or Overseers in his different Warehouses. But the Christians in the Divans are seldom to be found alone in these parts,being mostly mingled with Mahomedans; which circumstance, in many instances, deprives a Missionary of the opportunity of conversing with them on religious subjects. Generally speaking, the few Christians in this part of Egypt, being mostly without Churches and Schools, very soon grow wild; and the most dreadful indifference towards the Word of God, as well as thorough worldliness, is prevalent among the greatest part of them.

August 29, 1829 The beautifullysituated, and, on account of its numerous magnificent gardens, celebrated city of Rosetta has lost its former splendour, since the Canal below Fua, towards Alexandria, has been opened; and the large concourse of people, which formerly took place here, has ceased altogether. The moment I arrived, a man, with eight or ten keys of houses, approached me, offering me one. Many houses are in ruins, only from want of persons who think them worth repair and maintenance. There is hardly any thing for a Missionary to do. I intend to depart this morning. Of all those Copts noticed by Mr. Jowett (Researches in the Mediterranean, p. 108), there are remaining but five Families:

they have a Church, a Priest, and two wretched Schools. In one of the latter are four Boys, under the inspection of a blind Arif or Schoolmaster, who is often a Priest grown blind; who, to exercise them in repetition, causes them to commit to memory the Prayers of the Church. In the other Church there are five Boys: some of these are from Alexandria, as the Copts have no School there. I presented a few, who could read, with Gospels; and to one of these Schools I made a gift of ten copies of the Acts. The Priest was full of complaints, not knowing how to earn his bread; and the Church Servant, who in times past had kept every thing in order and cleanliness, is, from want, gone to Alexandria; in consequence of which, the utmost disorder and confusion prevailed. Seven Families belonging to the Greek Church live here, who are employed chiefly in constructing small vessels: only a few can read. There are about fifty Roman Catholics, who have a Church here: to these I could not sell one copy of the Scriptures; nor did I find any person to whom I could present them. With some, the prohibition of their Church prevailed; and with others, the most tremendous unconcern. To give an instance: I had sent my servant to the Spanish Consulate, with a French and an Italian Bible. The Consul took the Italian Bible in his hand, and asked the servant what he charged for it he replied, that his Master took one dollar from those who were wealthy; and from the less moneyed, ten piastres. The Consul answered, "How dare your Master demand so much money for such a book, which he has bought in England for fifteen paras (about the third part of a piastre). The servant replied, This Sacred Book is for men who fear God: and if you do not fear God, the Book is not for you,"

Canal of Alexandria.

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September 1 - At noon, moored in the Canal of Alexandria, in the vicinity of Damanhour, a considerable town lying south from the Canal, two full hours in the Desert, on the Canal of Rahmanieh, that leads to Alexandria; and in which formerly, when this Canal was in use, there was much commerce. Not being certain whether there were Christians, and the heat of the day being intense, I sent my servant and one of the sailors with several copies of the Scriptures and Tracts; intending to go there

myself the following morning, in case there were many Christians, and they were' desirous of seeing me. Towards evening they returned, informing me that there were only eight or ten Christian Families; and that two Christians had bought the Psalms in Coptic and Arabic, 1 Bible, and 2 New Testaments.

Alexandria.

Sept. 3, 1829 Yesterday evening I landed at Alexandria. It being too late to go into the city that evening, though I longed to pass a quiet night once more on dry land, I was obliged to remain in the boat. This morning, at an early hour, I began to visit our friends.

Sept. 11 - I intend to leave to-morrow morning, and to return directly to Caïro. During my sojourn in Alexandria, I daily visited the School which Mr. Mac Pherson has established here, and which, owing to his departure, is now, as it were, fatherless. There are a great number of very promising Boys in it-an advantage of which our School in Caïro cannot as yet boast; and, if hitherto the principal thing of a Christian School were not wanting in it, it might be said to be a flourishing one. As I found a great lack of books, I presented it with 20 copies of the Acts, 5 Bibles, and Arabic Tracts. I twice visited the Coptic Convent there is only one Priest in it, who is married, and a Monk. The old Priest, with much briskness, recollected Mr. Jowett, whose name he had forgotten, but whom he depicted to me with the utmost precision: he related to me, that he had performed Divine Service in his honour; that Mr. Jowett had presented them with a Bible; and that if any one wishes to read it, he must either read it in the Church, er, if he chooses to take it out, he is bound to bring it back to its place as soon as he has done with it. I made a present of another Bible, for use out of the Church; which was received with thanks. From thence we went to the Church, took the Bible, sat down in the small Temple consecrated to St. Mary, and read in it: after which we conversed on religious subjects for about two hours. The Priest bitterly complained of the Coptic Christians in Alexandria, of whom he gave the following description :"Only ten Families have a fixed abode here, and attend regularly at the Church; but they are all poor people, who earn their bread by manual labour, and who

are able to give little or nothing towards the support of the Church and the Priest. Besides these, there are about 30 other Copts, some of whom are married, whom the Pacha had called hither from other places, to his service: they are, during the whole week, from early in the morning till late in the evening, writing in their respective Divans; and the Sundays they either spend in the country, or at home, in banqueting and worldly pleasures: thus no thought comes to their mind, during the whole of the year, about the salvation of their souls, the Priest, or the Church." A true picture indeed! And, in fact, I was not able to make an impression on any of this class of people. Once I inspected the Greek Convent: the Patriarch was then in Caïro; and his Vicar, especially when I offered him, as a present, the Word of God, treated me with much contempt. I gave him two copies of the Psalms, in Ancient and Modern Greek ; but he no sooner knew that I was an English Priest, and that these books were printed in England, than he flung the books angrily on the table, and said, "We do not want your books! we have enough." I thought it not prudent to give an answer, and so departed. Such is the manner of men who are called Priests! In Caïro, too, the Greek Priesthood behave coldly towards us, without our having given them, to our knowledge, any reason of discontent; save that many Greeks have bought of us the Word of God, and other good books. We have repeatedly been told that the Patriarch had forbidden his subjects to receive books from us: however, we are not yet sure of the truth of this. The unbelieving Priests are here, as everywhere, almost the greatest obstacle to the diffusion of the Scriptures. Last Sunday Morning I expected to be permitted to preach to the Germans in Alexandria, for which purpose I made, two days beforehand, many visits to them, but all in vain: they all declined, making vain apologies. In the afternoon, I had the pleasure of baptizing the youngest son of our old friend Mr. Gliddon, in whose house I found much cordiality and kindness during my stay here. The English Consul-General, Mr. Barker, who for years past has proved truly affectionate to the Servants of the Lord, and has assisted them to the extent of his powers, has likewise shewn me great attention.

I related to him, that I had been informed that Hanna Bochari, a Roman Catholic, under whose direction are put all the Oriental Christians in the service of the Pacha, and who, consequently, is looked on as the Head of the Christians in Egypt in secular affairs, had informed some person that he would try to induce the Patriarchs of the different parties to associate and present a Memorial to the Pacha, desiring him to expel us from the Country, as disturbers of his subjects. This project may possibly be true; for this Hanna Bochari, without having ever seen us, and without having suffered the least personal of fence from us, is exceedingly exaspe rated, probably through the slander of the Priest of his Church. The Consul told me, that the Pacha would not meddle with such things; and, if we proceeded with prudence in our labours, we are as safe in Egypt as Hanna Bochari and the whole of his Church. Although I have sent my servant nearly to all the Divans with copies of the Holy Scriptures, I have been able to dispose of few or none; and, though it might be supposed, that as for years every man has had opportunity freely to procure the Holy Scriptures, at a moderate price or even gratuitously, many are really provided with them, yet I apprehend that many do not possess this treasure, and are unconcerned about it.

Return towards Cairo.

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Sept. 13, 1829-Near Fua, on my way to Caïro, when we sailed near the shore, eight or ten naked boys ran along after us, begging alms; and before I could throw them some bread, my Reis repeatedly called to them, "Allah jatik!" (May God give you !) “ Allah juaijinak !" (May God help you!)-a most common custom in Egypt, when a man will give nothing. I never was so much struck with this custom as now, when it brought to my recollection the practices which St. James so strikingly censures (Chap. ii. 15, 16).

It is evident, from the account, that the sale of books was extremely bad; because my conversation was most with poor people, and the richer ones, who in any degree cared for it, had already been provided with the Scriptures. The whole amount of money received for Scriptures is, 31 dollars and 4 piastres;

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and for other Publications, 7 dollars and 3 piastres: together, 38 dollars and 7 piastres. This amount, however, is more considerable than I could have expected. It was with real pleasure that I was permitted to take with me a considerable number of copies of the excellent book, Explanation of the Parables of our Lord Jesus Christ, " supposing that they would be eagerly received; but imagine my surprise and grief, when I found just the contrary. Almost everywhere the book was returned to me, with the greatest indifference; while the people strove for the Dairyman's Daughter;" which indeed is a nice book, but the translation, in many passages, is unintelligible; on which account I had at other times distributed it, but with reluctance, doubting whether one Copt in Egypt would be able to understand it perfectly. It is the title which allures the people, who take it for a new history of some Saint, nearly in the same way as a romance would be received with us: the reason is, the corrupted taste of the Christians in this Country. To the same fate even the Word of God is also subject: nevertheless, we need not be ashamed of the contempt and indifference with which it is sometimes treated in these regions. It is the best and most useful Book, in Arabic, produced by the Maltese Press; and I wish that a small Introduction to the Holy Scriptures may soon follow it.

Bulak, near Cairo.

Sept. 16 This evening I landed near Bulak, the suburb of Caïro; thus accomplishing, under the assistance of the Lord, another journey, under many discomforts, which indeed chiefly arose from, and were aggravated by, a more or less disordered body. I look back to it with much less cheerfulness of heart than on my former two journeys: however, we must never forget that we are not to expect fruit from a field before the old and barren ground has been broken up, plowed, planted, and watered, and the Lord has given the increase; and, as it is now our business to break up, to plow, and to sow, even with tears, so may the Lord be pleased to give to us, His poor Helpers, grace, strength, and persevering courage and patience and hope, until a glorious harvest in joy!

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