RECULVER, situated on the north-east coast of Kent, about eight miles from Canterbury, was a place of considerable note in the time of the Romans. From the coins found on the spot, in great numbers, it is proved that the Romans not only had an early settlement here, but that they long continued it. The walls of a fort built by them are still remaining. The ancient town probably stood without those walls, declining towards the sea, on that part of the cliff now washed away; and from the present shore, as far as a place called the Black Rock, seen at low water, there have been found great quantities of tiles, bricks, and other marks of a ruined town. The soil of the cliff being a loose sand, the sea has yearly gained upon it; large pieces from time to time falling on the shore below, discover a number of cisterns and cellars, with a great many coins, and other remains of antiquity.

Ethelbert, King of Kent, having embraced the Christian faith, gave up his palace at Canterbury to St. Augustine, and retired with his court to Reculver, where he built himself a palace on the site of the ancient Roman fort. It continued a royal residence, till King Egbert, as an atonement for the murder of his two nephews, gave it, in the year 669, to a priest named Bassa, to build a monastery there, the church of which subsequently became the parish church. This church, at the time of its erection, stood a considerable distance inland; but the inroads of the sea on this part of the coast gradually washed away the hill on which it stood, till only a very few feet remained between the edge of the cliff and the building. At length, about twenty years ago, it was considered no longer safe to assemble there for the purposes of Divine worship; and the parishioners, having determined to erect a new church further inland, proceeded to dismantle the ancient structure. The Corporation of the Trinity-House, however, on

account of its importance as a seamark, interfered to stop the work of destruction, and erected upon the towers at the west end, a frame-work of wood, in the form of the ancient spires. By driving piles, and laying a stone pavement for a considerable distance in front of the church, the further fall of the cliff has been prevented. It is much to be regretted that these measures were not adopted earlier, as the whole of the sacred building might then have been preserved.

There is something very striking in the ruin of Reculver church as it now stands. The situation, close to the very brink of the cliff, the dreary character of the surrounding scenery, the deserted appearance of the place itself, which, from being a royal residence and the seat of a populous town, is now reduced to an insignificant village, the churchyard partly washed away, and the bones of the dead distinctly visible in the side of the cliff,-all these circumstances combine to make an impression on the mind. This interest is heightened by the tradition, that St. Ethelbert, first Christian King of Kent, is buried there. In James the First's reign, there was remaining a monument of antique form, at the upper end of the south aisle, under which, as it was said, the monarch lay. At the time the church was destroyed, no remains of this monument were left, but an inscription on the wall pointed out the place where it once stood.

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CHICHESTER CATHEDRAL.

THE CITY OF CHICHESTER is of great antiquity, its origin being considered previous to the invasion of Britain by the Romans. There is no doubt of their having made it one of their settlements: and by them it is supposed to have been called REGNUM. After its destruction by Ella, a kind of northern pirate, the town was restored by his son Cissa, the second king of the South Saxons, (whence comes Suthsex, or Sussex,) and on this prince making it his residence and the capital of his kingdom, it obtained the name of Cissan-ceaster, or Cissa's city; from which the word Chichester is derived. Cissa died in 577.

About six miles south of Chichester is the peninsula of Selsey, a flat tract of land, running far into the sea. This place, which gives the title of baron to a British peer, is remarkable for having been originally a bishop's see, before Chichester became a bishopric. The episcopal seat was fixed at Selsey in 711, and continued there till the reign of William the First, who gave orders that all cathedral churches should be removed from villages to cities. Accordingly, Stigand, a Norman, bishop of Selsey, was appointed the first bishop of Chichester. In 1091, Radulphus, or Ralph, became bishop. He proceeded with the building of the Cathedral; and in addition to laying the foundations, roofed in the fabric with timber, having dedicated it to St. Peter, according to that at Selsey: but after standing six years, it shared the too-frequent fate of churches built at such an early period, and in 1114, was burned to the ground. Ralph, however, notwithstanding this disappointment, set to work again, and lived to see a second building erected. This too was most probably of wood; for it was burned in 1186, together with the houses of the clergy, and almost all the city.

The present Cathedral may be dated from the time of Bishop Seffrid the Second, who at once began to engraft a new work on the walls which the fire had left; adapting to this ancient English edifice the general style and peculiar ornaments of the age. After fourteen years' labour, and the expenditure of vast sums of money, the amassing of which can only be attributed to the religious zeal of the times, the Cathedral was sufficiently finished to be consecrated; and in 1199, this rite was performed with great splendour by Seffrid, assisted by six other prelates. It then consisted of the nave with its single aisles; the centre arcade, with its low tower and transept; and of the choir. To these, great additions were made in the course of the three following centuries.

At the West Front was originally a porch, between two square towers. These towers seem to bear marks of having been part of the ancient church. In that facing the south are some fine specimens of early Norman mouldings. The opposite tower was so much battered by the rebellious fanatics in 1642, that it fell a few years afterwards, and remained a ruin till 1791, when it received the very irregular form under which it now appears.

The Nave is supported by plain flying buttresses. The water-spouts at the parapets of the north aisles, are of a most strange and grotesque appearance. It is curious to trace the origin of these hideous productions of the ancient English architects,

Gorgons, and hydras, and chimeras dire!

The Romans used lions' heads of stone, or of baked earth, to convey water from the roofs of their houses. This idea was seized upon by the builders of our early churches: but the faces and shapes suggested by their fertile fancies are often monstrous and horrible; and, according to good antiquaries, the grimLooking objects attached to church-towers, were de

signed to portray eyil spirits embodied, and frightene beyond measure at the sound of the bells;-Christian bells having, in former days, had wondrous powers attributed to them.

The Spire, with the tower which supports it, rises 271 feet from the floor; from the base of the spire the height is 138 feet. A general likeness between the spires of Salisbury and Chichester has given rise to a story of their being the work of the same architect. "The master workman," says the quaint Fuller, "built Salisbury, and his man Chichester." But though this spire resembles that of Salisbury in its just proportions, and in the pinnacles and light canopied windows at its base, it cannot, on examination, be assigned to the same hand. Great danger to the whole building was apprehended from the effects of a thunder-storm in 1721, by which several large stones were forced out of the spire; but these were soon afterwards restored, and the place of the rent cannot now be discovered.

Nearly on a line with the west end, at a few yards distance towards the north, stands a campanile, or Bell-tower, 120 feet high, and chiefly remarkable for the solidity and massive masonry of its walls. It is called "Ryman's Tower," from a tradition that Bishop Langton bought of one William Ryman a quantity of hewn stone, which the latter had collected to build a grand mansion near Chichester, but for which he could not get the royal license. The same Langton, who was high-chancellor of England during the greater part of Edward the Second's reign, greatly assisted, at his own expense, in carrying on the improvements in the building.

But it is time that we proceed to the interior of the Cathedral. On entering by the west, a full view of the nave is obtained. It is formed by eight arcades, upon piers flanked by half-columns, under an upper and lower open gallery. The small columns are of Petworth marble, with tops resembling the palm-tree. The vaulted roof is of stone and chalk, and is of early but uncertain date.

The North Transept is appropriated as the parish Church of St. Peter the Great. In the South Transept, are two curious paintings by Bernardi, an Italian, employed by Bishop Shurborne, who presided over the diocese in the reign of Henry the Eighth. The first exhibits the interview between Ceadwalla, king of Sussex, and Bishop Wilfrid, the prelate to whom that monarch confirmed the grant of Selsey. The bishop, attended by his clergy, and with a scroll in his hand, is seen approaching the king, who stands at the door of his palace, with his courtiers round him; on the scroll is a petition in Latin, to the following effect: Give to the servants of God a house of prayer, for God's sake! To this the monarch answers, by pointing to an open book, which is held by an attendant, and is thus inscribed: Be it according to your petition. In the back-ground is Selsey with its parish-church, and the sea bounded by the blue hills of the Isle of Wight. The subject of the other picture, which in its grouping and style is very similar, is the interview between Henry the Eighth and Bishop Shurborne. The latter says, Most religious king; for God's sake adorn your church of Chichester, now a Cathedral, as Ceadwalla, King of Sussex, formerly adorned Selsey Cathedral. Henry's answer, also written on an open book, is, For the love of Christ, I grant what you ask. These remnants of ancient art are valuable, among other reasons, as furnishing instances of the clerical and lay costume of the age. Underneath Bernardi's pictures, are likenesses of all the kings of England, from William the Norman to George the First: and on the opposite side, are portraits

of all the bishops of Selsey and Chichester, till the Reformation; many, of course, ideal.

On the vaultings of the church, among other painted ornaments, appear the arms of William of Wykeham often repeated, with his well-known motto, "Manners makyth Man." To the east of the south transept is the Chapter-house, with its arched roof and windows of a very early age. In the Sacristy, (now the vicars' vestry,) is a curious old oak chest, evidently Saxon, originally brought from Selsey.

The Chantry of St. Richard, formerly Bishop of Chichester, is a beautiful shrine of highly-finished work, standing in this transept, at the back of the stalls. He died in 1253, after being fondly alleged to have wrought miracles. In the same transept is a noble window, famed for the elegance of its tracery, and its fine proportions. It was put up for 3107., (a large cost for those times,) by Bishop Langton, early in the fourteenth century, and remained until the great rebellion, when its rich painted glass was wantonly broken; and it is now in a state requiring repair. But we must accompany our readers into the Choir. This is richly fitted up, and has lately undergone considerable improvement. The stalls erected by Bishop Shurborne, are of brown oak, finely carved, with the titles of the dignities and prebends painted over them in old characters. Above a beautiful altar-screen was formerly a gallery, in which, before the Reformation, the singers were placed at the celebration of high mass. The other parts of the choir are executed in a pleasing style, the whole putting the visiter in mind of foreign Cathedrals; a circumstance owing, perhaps, to Bishop Shurborne's having passed many years abroad, as ambassador to foreign courts, in the reign of Henry the Seventh.

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The Lady Chapel, at the east end of the Cathedral, is an ancient and elegant building, but sadly altered since the havoc made by the puritans, and by the subsequent filling-up of the east window. This portion of the fabric is now used as a library, and contains many scarce and excellent books. Beneath it, is a spacious vault, belonging to the noble family of Richmond, whose banners are hung over the entrance. Above it is a Latin inscription, stating that it was made in 1750, and ending with the words, This is the last house;'-words which always appeared to us, to convey a cheerless and unsatisfactory idea. For when surveying the dormitories of the dead, the common dwelling-places of the peer and the peasant, our minds strongly cling to the truth, that they are but temporary homes. And beyond the dark confines of the grave, a glorious prospect is opened: we then contemplate the inspired declaration of the Apostle; For we know, that if our earthly house of this tabernacle were dissolved, we have a building of God, AN HOUSE NOT MADE WITH HANDS, eternal in the heavens.

The following are stated to be the dimensions of the Cathedral.

Feet. Total length from east to west, including Lady Chapel 407 Length of transepts from north to south 129 Height of the spire from the floor Height of the vaulting of the nave Height of the vaulting of the choir

......

271

62 59

...........

We may presume that the Cathedral remained uninjured till 1642, when it was ransacked and defaced by the Oliverian soldiers, under Sir W. Waller, who had got possession of the city. An account much longer than we can here quote, is to be found in a scarce old work, called " Mercurius Rusticus, or the countrie's complaint of the barbarous outrages committed by the sectaries of this late flourishing kingdom." After describing the seizure of the communion-plate, &c., by the officers, it is added, "They having in person executed the covetous part of the sacrifice, leave the

destructive and spoiling part to be finished by th common soldiers; who break down the organ, and dashing the pipes with their pole-axes, scoffingly say, Hark how the organs go!' break down the rails of the altar, and the tables of the commandments; and no wonder that they should break the commandments in representation, who had before broken them all over in their substance. Sir W. Waller, wary man as he is, and well known not to be too apt to expose himself to danger, stood all the while with his sword drawn, a spectator and approver of these barbarous impieties. And being asked by one of his troopers what he meant, to stand in that posture, answered, To defend himself!'

But it seems, the work of robbery and desecration was then not complete. In 1647, Sir Arthur Haslerigg was ordered to harass the few loyalists who remained in Chichester, particularly those connected with the church. Accordingly, says Mercurius, " having entered the chapter-house, and received intelligence where the remainder of the church-plate was, he commanded the soldiers to take down the wainscot round about the room, they having brought crows for that purpose. Which while they were doing, Sir Arthur's tongue was not enough to express his joy; it was operative at his very heels by dancing and skipping. Mark! what music it is lawful for a puritan to dance to!" Chiefly owing to this cruel devastation, it is now difficult to ascertain to whom many of the mutilated tombs may be assigned: but there are some of very ancient date. The Latin inscription on Bishop Shurborne's is striking, "Enter not into judgment with thy servant, O Lord. Robert Shurborne." Among the various interesting monuments are many of a modern period, admirably executed; particularly that erected to WILLIAM COLLINS*: also a monumental lowrelief of a beautiful female figure, rising from the grave, angels beckoning and inviting her with the words, "Come, thou blessed." Both these, as well as several other fine specimens of sculpture in the cathedral, are by the late gifted and classical JOHN FLAXMAN, who frequently visited his friend, the poet Hayley, then resident near Chichester. statue from the chisel of Mr. Carew, has lately been erected here, to the memory of the late WILLIAM HUSKISSON, Esq., the sad circumstances of whose death by an accident, many of our readers recollect.

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It only remains to add, that, within the last few years, much has been done to this building, not only to repair former injuries, the effects of violence, but to remedy what we have to deplore in many a venerable structure, the deformities occasioned by bad taste, in an age when the beauties of early English architecture were but little understood. M.

* See the Saturday Magazine, Vol. I., p. 196.

CHILDREN GATHERING FLOWERS IN THE CATHEDRAL CHURCH-YARD.

WHEN spring returns, the little children play, In the church-yard of the Cathedral gray, Busy as morning bees, and gather flowers, Daisies, and gild-cups, of the hurrying hours Thoughtless, as unsolicitous, though Time Speeds, like a spectre, and their playful prime Bears on to sorrow. Angel, cry aloud! Speak of the knell, the grave-worm, and the shroud! No! let them play; for solitude, and care, Too soon, will teach them, what poor mortals are. Yes! let them play, but as their thoughts expand, May smiling pity lead them by the hand, When they look up, and in the clouds admire, The lessening shaft of that aërial spire, So be their thoughts uplifted from the sod, Where Time's brief flowers they gather to their God. March 12th, 1834. W. L. BOWLES

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