FOUR YEARS

IN

THE IONIAN ISLANDS.

THEIR POLITICAL AND SOCIAL CONDITION.

WITH A

HISTORY OF THE BRITISH PROTECTORATE.

EDITED BY

VISCOUNT KIRKWALL,

LATELY ON THE STAFF OF SIR HENRY WARD, SEVENTH LORD HIGH COMMISSIONER.

CHAPTER III.

PAGE

Marriage of Priests discouraged-The Exarch-Monasteries, Churches,
Priests-A limited Morality-Protestant, Greek, and Roman Churches
-The Laymen for England, the Clergy for Russia-New Testament
little read-Visit to the Church of the Archangel-Reading of the New
Testament-Little Circulation of the Scriptures-A Priest shaved and
flogged by a British Resident-The Archbishop of Corfu-Religion and
Drunkenness-A pious Usurer-The Convent of San Gerasimo-A
Land-Jonah-How the Water rises in the Holy Well at Cephalonia. 30

CHAPTER IV.

A candid French Author, and One the Reverse-The Latin Princes protected the Jews-Judas Iscariot the supposed Corfiot-Author's narrow Escape of being taken for Judas-Venice grants the Jews PrivilegesCruelty to them of the Greeks-Venetians denounce the Desecration of Graves-Marshal Schulemberg befriends the Jews-Their numbers in the Islands-Sir Charles Napier protects them-Their Treatment at Zante-Accuracy always rare amongst Greeks-A self-deluded old Woman-Peasant's Greek language-Magic-Lantern Lecture in ItalianA Parricide-An Execution in Corfu-Reported Fate of the Execution 45

CHAPTER V.

The "magnanimous Cephalonians" of Homer-First at a Feast and last at a Fight-Attractions of the Black Mountain-Beautiful and extensive View-Black Mountain rarely visited by Natives - Population-Salt Water below the level of the Sea-Strangers reminded of "Puss in Boots"-Sir Charles Napier Cephalonian Society - An Apostolical Archbishop-A Romantic Visit-Murder in High Life-A sleepless Night-Use of Garlic, and neglect of Soap

CHAPTER VI.

Signor Focca, the Archivist-Proveditors-Making up for lost time— Good Dinner due to bad Memory-Napier's summary Justice-Great Extension of the Franchise-Lord Collingwood's Fleet, 1809-Deputation sent to General Oswald-Unconciliating Conduct of Sir Hudson Lowe-A bragging Commander-An Englishman of few WordsMajor de Bosset, Governor of Cephalonia-The dying Beauty and her wicked Brothers-in-Law-Rascal Notaries-A Land of Savages-De Bosset's summary Justice-Illuminations for Count Caruso, and Signors Zervo and Montferrato in Cephalonia-A Cephalonian PictureGallery

61

75

Nuisances of Cephalonia — Rest-destroying Boatmen-A Mishellenist— Change of Habitation-Dogs, Bells, and Owls' Torments-Duration of Bell-ringing restricted at Zante-Torture of Heretics-A terrible Greek Christmas - An intolerable Peal - Philhellenism shaken by Bells-Signor Lascarato's Reception on his Visit to us-Signora Lascarato-Lascarato in Prison-His ill-timed Arguments-A brutal Jailer-Conduct of the Warders-Protestant a term of reproach-A disinterested Author-My visits to the Prison-Built by Sir C. Napier -What would render a Greek Empire probable-The Hats-off Custom-Why some honest Ionians desired the Union-British Officer's Stratagem for Seeing the Greek Ladies-The Hole in the Door-Lord Byron-House of the Poet-Daughters at a discount-Wooing in Cephalonia-A prudent Suitor-A Bridegroom knocked down to the highest Bidder-Nationality not the greatest of Virtues-Universal Philanthropy preferable - Prince Consort on the same Subject — A similar imperial Idea.

PAGE

90

CHAPTER VIII.

Flowers and Foliage-Wine Company unsuccessful-Unpopularity of Cephalonia as a Station-Local Society without a Head-A too secluded Ruler-A Wedding in High Life-Sugarplum Surfeit-Privileged Englishmen The Marriage Ceremonies-" Let the Wife fear her Husband". Cephalonian Beauty-An unwonted Dance-How Unionists were sometimes Manufactured-A too classical Partner in the Dance-Visit of H.R.H. the Prince of Wales-H.S.H. the Prince of Leiningen-A Crown refused by a Naval Captain-The Prince's Ride-A Royal Dinner Party - The Mysteries of Cephalonia-The Royal Departure-The Ionian Steamer and the Ionian AssemblyThe President of the Assembly-Offer of a Country-house-Begging Boys-Count Roma, Mr. Stevens-Zante, second in Beauty only to Corfu - The Pitch Wells-Luncheon of Grapes - Advantage of a Knowledge of Greek-Superior Clubs of Zante-The Archives-The Ghetto-First Visits made by Strangers-Count Lunzi's Country-house -Appropriate Present to a John Bull-How the Greek War-office employed the Military Staff-" Hair Mattresses for Private Soldiers"The Resident and the Rizospast-Mr. Stevens' Mistake regarding the Mills-Tempting Offer of a Passage to Athens-A Greek Regent of British Descent -The Alfred Mania-Obstinacy of the Greeks-A Rash Promise.

115