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PEASANT GREEK LANGUAGE.

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frequently obtained the more flattering reply in Greek, "I cannot speak Greek, but only Romaika."* This proved to me that my masters both in Corfu and in Cephalonia taught a language very superior to those peasant dialects, which for centuries formed the sole Greek of the Ionian Islands. It enabled me to understand the remark of a Corfiot gentleman, who said to me: "You are learning Greek? You will soon know it more correctly than we do ourselves." But though his speech was a natural one, I cannot say that I myself realized its truth.

Whilst in Corfu, I occasionally gave to the soldiers magic-lantern lectures on elementary astronomy and comic subjects. To please some of the native families, the lecture was translated into Italian chiefly by my wife, and the lantern was exhibited at several evening parties. It was my ambition to give the lecture also in modern Greek; but a year or two elapsed before I ventured to carry out this intention, with what results will be narrated in a future chapter.

Although murders occasionally occurred in all the Islands, and were frequent in Zante, yet partly owing to the lenient system established, and partly to the absence of convictions by the inefficient police, executions were very rare events. I myself only witnessed one case, and never had the opportunity of witnessing another. It was for the crime

* Δὲν ἠξεύρω ἑλληνικὰ ἀλλὰ Ρομαίκα.

His

of parricide. A farmer had divided the greater part of his property amongst his three sons, who expected upon his death to share the remainder. He, however, quarrelled with one of them who was a bad character, and therefore prepared to make a will which should deprive him of any further part of the property. For the Ionian law permits a father to dispose as he pleases of a certain portion of his property. The wicked son, therefore, killed his father in order that he might die intestate, in which case the rest of the property would be equally divided between the brothers. The murder was effected with an axe, in a grove of olive trees. bloody shoes and stockings, betrayed and convicted the murderer, and he was sentenced to the gallows. The day before the execution, I saw him marched through the town from the prison to the church, in which he was, according to custom, to pass his last night. A priest sat up with him to prepare him for death, and he was liberally provided with refreshments. People were permitted to enter the church to see him, and to witness his callous indifference to his fate. He was a coarse, stout, middleaged man of a dark complexion, and with a heavy cast of countenance. He wore a monkish gown, upon the back of which appeared a placard inscribed with the word parricide in Greek. He was a hardened villain, and, though his guilt was un

AN EXECUTION AT CORFU.

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doubted, he to the last obstinately asserted his innocence.

The next morning I rode out with a military friend at six o'clock to see the execution. The prisoner was marched from the church, accompanied by many priests, to an elevated piece of ground, situated between Fort Neuf and Fort Abraham, where a small scaffold had been erected. A strong body of armed police kept the place clear; the spectators lining the road. The people were suspected of an inclination to rescue the victim of the law, if they could sum up sufficient resolution. But I never saw the slightest signs of any such intentions. When the culprit arrived at the scaffold he ascended the two or three steps, and was suspended in a few seconds, with his feet only just clearing the ground. The business was quietly conducted, but considering that an immortal soul was being despatched from this world, the brevity of the proceedings had an appearance of indecent haste. However it must be remembered that he had had many hours of preparation if he chose to make use of them, whilst waiting in the church. I was also told afterwards that he was employed in mentally praying while ascending the scaffold. The executioner, always an object of intense hatred to Greeks, had to be escorted to the water's-edge that he might enter the boat which was to convey him back to Albania, from whence he

came, carrying away with him the wages of his nefarious work. It was afterwards reported that he had been waylaid on landing at the other side, and robbed and murdered by some Albanians. But whether this report were true, or merely an embodiment of the general wishes, I never could ascertain with any degree of accuracy.

CHAPTER V.

The "magnanimous Cephalonians" of Homer-First at a Feast and last at a Fight-Attractions of the Black Mountain-Beautiful and extensive View -Black Mountain rarely visited by Natives - Population-Salt Water below the level of the Sea-Strangers reminded of "Puss in Boots"-Sir Charles Napier-Cephalonian Society-An Apostolical Archbishop-A Romantic Visit-Murder in High Life-A sleepless Night-Use of Garlic, and neglect of Soap.

I ARRIVED at Cephalonia on Sunday the 16th of February, 1862, from England via Corfu. Little did I then imagine with what warm feelings of friendship for the inhabitants I should take my departure, the following year.

Of the Seven Islands, Cephalonia and Ithaca are at the presont day the two most purely Greek in blood and language. Indeed Ithaca (the inhabitants of which were at one time reduced under the rule of Venice to little more than 2000*) is said to have been chiefly repeopled by Cephalonians.

Ulysses, King of Ithaca, sailed to Troy B.C. 1193, with twelve ships, containing probably about 2400 soldiers, composed of Cephalonians, Ithacans, and

* Lunzi.

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