324 MR. ROBERTS DEPARTURE FROM GIBRALTAR. and some fifteen of them got in and on our two carriages, and the descent of the Rock of Gibraltar by a bright moonlight, and the hearty English huzzas with which they took leave of us, are never to be forgotten by either of their guests. A charming row of two miles brought us to the yacht, and some amusing events which there transpired deeply convinced us that it is never a wise thing to be in "a hurry." Among those whose politeness I feel bound to record I will mention Mr. Roberts, who keeps a fine chemist's store, where every drug and chemical may be procured in as much perfection as in London or Paris. Mr. Roberts, with hundreds of the inhabitants of the Rock, visited the yacht; and when he came off to us the day we sailed, he politely brought a box of ice, which for a day or two proved exceedingly comfortable and refreshing. Our own stock had been exhausted, and the good people at the only port in the Mediterranean where it could be obtained asked the moderate price of one hundred and twenty dollars per ton. Our ice procured at St. Petersburg lasted us into the Mediterranean, but soon wasted in that region. Here we had to take leave of our friends and fellow-voyagers Mr. and Mrs. Daniel B. Allen. Mrs. Allen came on board the yacht from a sick bed, and in a condition of extreme debility. The voyage proved eminently serviceable, and now, in much improved health, she leaves us. Our friends took a steamer to Cadiz, and proposed to pass a year in Europe. They carried with them the best wishes of all our company, and sorry were we to lose the companionship of those who ever looked upon the bright side of each passing event. On leaving the harbor we fired a salute, which was replied to by the guns of the fortress. CHAPTER XXIII. LEAVE GIBRALTAR TANGIERSAIL FOR MADEIRA - PORTO SANTO — MA- YATES' HOTEL HIS STUDY LEIGH HUNT - POPULATION THE BOY-BEGGARS SEPTEMBER 9th, we left Gibraltar on a fine morning, at about eleven o'clock, and, with a brisk breeze, stood over for Tangier, We soon made the headland of Cape Spartel, and had a glorious view of the straits. This is the north-west point of Africa and of Morocco, and forms the south-western boundary of the Straits of Gibraltar. On its summit we observed an old tower, which appeared in ruins. The sea was rolling into the Bay of Tangier, with a strong northerly wind, and it was soon very clear that we were to be deprived of the pleasure which we had anticipated in landing on the continent of Africa. The surf was rolling in white sheets of foam, and, as a landing could only be effected by the use of the surf-boats from the shore, we at once felt that it was unwise to hazard the inconvenience for the gratification of an hour. We were about one mile from the shore, and our consul's flag was at once exhibited from his house-top. This gentleman had expressed to us at Gibraltar his earnest hope that we would show our yacht to the Moors. The town makes a fine appearance, as the buildings are all white. It stands in a small space, and within a line of old 326 TANGIER - PORTO SANTO DESERTAS. Moorish fortified walls; the buildings come down very close to the shore. Not a vessel was in the little bay, which is exceedingly exposed to the north-west winds. Tangier is an old place, and when won by the Romans, under Sertorius, was known as Tingris. Saracens, Moors, Portuguese and English, have all by turn claimed possession of this spot. Charles II. of England received it as part of the portion of his wife, Catherine of Portugal. It was abandoned in 1684 by the British. The present population is about seven thousand five hundred, of whom onethird are Jews. It carries on extensive trade with Gibraltar in cattle, poultry, &c. Not often have I seen a finer outline of coast than that which encircles this little town. A noble range of hills extends off to the east and south, and, as far as we could see, the most luxuriant growth of trees. Palms and aloes were abundant, and the cultivation looked as though it were of a high order. Certainly a sail along this part of Africa is most delightful, and it is hard to believe that such scenes of beauty are inhabited by barbarous Arabs, who are ever prowling for their prey. We now, at half-past two P. M., made our course direct for the island of Madeira. In the evening the breeze freshened, and all night and throughout Saturday we had good headway. On the evening of the 11th, at six, we made the island of Porto Santo, and lay to under its lee, waiting for daylight to enter the roadstead of Funchal. This island presents a remarkable appearance, and is seen at a great distance. Three large hummocks enable the mariner to distinguish it from Madeira. The mountainous heights appear barren, and everything, as far as we could see, looked unpromising. The population is about one thousand two hundred. In the early dawn of day we were passing north of the Desertas, a group of rocky islands which are not inhabited, and only visited by a few fishermen, who have huts here for occasional use. One rock, called the Pyramid, bears a very strong |